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Trip 2

LIBBY CREEK

THE ESSENTIALS

Nearest Town Centennial, WY

Distance 3 miles max.

Vertical 600’ to 1400’

Season December to April

Elevation Range 8573’ to 9800’

Difficulty Rating Moderate

Skiing Rating

SNOTEL Station Brooklyn Lake (367)

Forest Zone Medicine Bow National Forest, Laramie Ranger District

CAIC Zone None

USGS Quad Centennial, WY

Weather WYZ063

THE HISTORY

The history of the old Libby Creek ski area is complicated by the fact that it was once known as the Snowy Range ski area, and that, over time, a total of four ski areas (three lost, and one still in operation) have had the name “Snowy Range ski area.” For the sake of clarity, I will refer to them as:

Barrett Ridge (the old ski area near Ryan Park on the west side of the Snowy Range; see the previous trip)

Old Snowy Range (an old ski area north of Libby Creek and west of present-day Snowy Range ski area)

Snowy Range (currently operating)

Libby Creek (the subject of this trip)

The Snowy Range in southeastern Wyoming (southwest of Laramie) is an extension of the Medicine Bow Mountains that begins at Cameron Pass in Colorado. The earliest history of lift-served skiing in the Snowies, as they’re known locally, seems to belong to the Old Snowy Range ski area. The details, though, have been lost to the sands of time. Very little is known about this area, including its years of operation. Its location, on the other hand, is known: it operated on the slopes of a small, rounded mountain in the area bounded by Nash Fork/ Highway 130, the Barber Lake Road, and Forest Road 351-g.

Then, sometime in the 1930s, the Libby Creek ski area came onto the scene. It was one quarter mile south of present-day Snowy Range ski area, and one mile south of Old Snowy Range ski area. Though its exact opening year is uncertain, its “glory days” spanned the late 1930s and throughout the 1940s (in 1938 the U.S. Forest Service documented 6800 skiers at Libby). It was considered too steep for most skiers (most runs were “expert”), and had a small, avalanche-prone area (called “Gully” in “The Descents”). It operated sporadically throughout World War II and into the 1950s.

Libby Creek had only limited parking along the side of old Highway 130 (Barber Lake Road). You couldn’t actually drive to the base of the ski area. From the roadside parking along the highway, you’d walk down a set of wooden stairs that descended a scree and talus slope. From the bottom of the stairs, you’d clip into your skis and ski across a meadow to the base lodge. From there you could at last hop on one of two rope tows or a chairlift. At the end of the day you had to hike out back to your car.

By 1957 or 1958, Libby Creek closed. But soon, a new area was coming into its own. In March 1959, Forest Service rangers made a reconnaissance of the Nash Fork (near present-day Highway 130). They drove to the Libby Creek ski area, and then headed north on foot and on skis. The official opinion: the potential ski area was more desirable than both Libby Creek and Happy Jack (an area along Interstate 80 east of Laramie). Building the new ski area, however, would require an access road (present-day Forest Road 351-g—Approach 2 in the following sections).

The Forest Service, though, didn’t think anyone would want to develop it. Nevertheless, the agency opened it up for bids on August 1, 1959. Six short months later, in January 1960, a Kansas City group signed a 30-year permit. The Nash Fork ski area opened as Medicine Bow for the 1960/1961 season with two T-bars serving 600 feet of vertical, a shelter house, restaurant, and parking lot. Later, in the 1980s, a chairlift was added, and the name changed again to Snowy Range Ski Area. Today, Snowy Range has four chairlifts and a “magic carpet” serving 1000 feet of vertical on 27 trails. As of April 2008, Snowy Range Ski Area was for sale, everything included, for the price of $6.5 million.

Libby Creek, meanwhile, has become a consummate backcountry destination.

THE TRAILHEAD

The old Libby Creek ski area is located in the Snowy Range along Barber Lake Road, which is closed in winter. Because of this, there are four possible trailheads, and four corresponding approaches, for the Libby Creek ski area. No one option is necessarily better than another. It’s simply a matter of personal preference (mine is for Approach 3, but pick your poison). I describe them here in the order they’re encountered as you drive west up into the Snowy Range from Centennial.

From Centennial, Wyoming, continue west on Highway 130 (Snowy Range Scenic Byway) for 1.75 miles to the Medicine Bow National Forest/Centennial Information Center on the right-hand side of the road. Park here for Approach 1.

One quarter mile beyond the information center, pass the lower junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road (remember it’s closed in winter). Continue on Highway 130. Three miles beyond the information center, you’ll arrive at the turnoff for the Snowy Range Ski Area. For Approach 2, turn left here, as if you’re going to the ski area. The road descends toward the ski area. Shortly before arriving at the base of the ski area, the road forks. The left fork descends to the ski area parking lot and base lodge. The right fork ascends slightly to a maintenance area and parking lot for snow-grooming equipment. Although it may feel wrong, this is where you’re supposed to go. Park here for the Medicine Bow Trailhead, the start of Approach 2.

The “Buzz”

The northeast aspect of the ski area holds powder really well, even when there hasn’t been a fresh snowfall for a while. Though the trailhead was bitterly cold and windy, Libby Creek stayed well-protected and was a ton of fun.

—Josh W.

Otherwise, remain on Highway 130 heading west, and after another 2 miles, arrive at the upper junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road. This junction is marked by a sign, an abundance of trucks and trailers for snowmobiles, and a sign indicating the winter closure of the Snowy Range Scenic Byway just beyond. Park here for Approach 3.

Finally, for Approach 4, continue another 0.75 mile beyond the upper junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road, and park at the Green Rock Trailhead on the left-hand side of the road. This trailhead is for skiers only; snowmobiles aren’t allowed in the parking lot or on the trails.

THE APPROACH

The four possible approaches are described here in the same order as their corresponding trailheads in the previous section:

Approach 1

Uphill on the way in, downhill on the way out

From the information center, shoulder your skis and walk west along the shoulder of Highway 130 for a quarter mile to the lower junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road. Click in to your skis and skins and follow Barber Lake Road west. After 1 mile, pass Barber Lake, and after 2 miles, you should be directly across the valley from the old Libby Creek ski area. The road is on the north side of the valley, beneath some small, south-facing cliffs. The valley drops down to the south, and the open runs and arrow-straight slot in the trees that was the lift line should be plainly visible to the southwest. As an additional landmark, the road here rounds a sharp bend, turning from west to north. From here (UTM: 13 400416 4576042), drop off the road, descending a talus slope and then a tree-covered slope to the base of the valley. Here you’ll intersect the Barber Lake Trail, which follows Libby Creek. Turn left (southeast) on the trail, and follow it to a small opening in the trees where the trail meets the creek. Cross the creek, and then continue southwest through the trees to a large, open meadow at the base of the ski area (UTM: 13 400166 4575906).

A skier in fresh powder on the Pitch at Libby Creek

Approach 2

Uphill and downhill on the way in, uphill and downhill on the way out

From the Medicine Bow Trailhead at the Snowy Range Ski Area, follow Forest Road 351-g west-southwest for 1 mile to its intersection with Barber Lake Road. At Barber Lake Road, turn left (southeast) and continue for another mile. From here, drop off the road and continue as for Approach 1.

Approach 3

Downhill on the way in, uphill on the way out

From the upper junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road, start out heading east on Barber Lake Road. Almost immediately, you’ll have to make the first of two decisions. After less than a quarter of a mile, the Barber Lake Trail Cutoff heads right (south) into the trees. You can either stay on the Barber Lake Road (which has good views of the valley but is exposed to wind and open to snowmobile travel), or take the Barber Lake Trail Cutoff, which ducks into the protection and quiet of the trees, and is slightly shorter.

If you stay on Barber Lake Road, continue for three-quarters of a mile to a pair of sharp switchbacks before the road heads dead east. If you take the Barber Lake Trail Cutoff, head south for a quarter mile to the junction with the Barber Lake Trail (marked with blue diamonds). Turn left (east) and continue for another quarter mile until the trail merges with Barber Lake Road at the base of the last switchback. For the next quarter mile, the road and trail routes are the same.

Then it’s time for the second decision: remain on the Barber Lake Road again, or take the Barber Lake Trail. If you’ve never been to Libby Creek before, staying on the road can be useful for navigation, and identifying exactly when you should cross Libby Creek and head southwest to the base of the old ski area. If you’ve been to Libby Creek before, are confident in your navigation, or enjoy the quiet and protection of the trees, take the trail. If you choose to stay on the road, after a quarter mile you will reach the junction with Forest Road 351-g. Continue as for Approaches 1 and 2. If you choose to take the trail, follow blue diamonds mounted on trees on the valley floor along the north side of Libby Creek for roughly 1 mile. Shortly before you reach the creek crossing, a yellow metal sign on a tree reads: ROCKS ON TRAIL, CAUTION, 100 FEET AHEAD. Shortly past that sign, the Barber Lake Trail enters a small clearing where the trail meets up with the creek. Cross here and continue as for Approach 1.

Approach 4

Downhill on the way in, uphill on the way out

From the Green Rock Trailhead, start out going southwest on the combined Barber Lake/Libby Creek trail (marked with blue diamonds). The route swings through the east edge of a large, open meadow (often brutally cold and windswept) before turning to the east-southeast. After a half mile, the Libby Creek Trail turns sharply right (south). Do not take this trail. It will add significantly to your mileage! Continue straight on the Barber Lake Trail. This junction is well-marked. After another half mile, the Barber Lake Trail Cutoff comes in from the left. Continue as for Approach 3 on the Barber Lake Trail.

THE DESCENTS

There are five primary descents at Libby Creek. Looking up at the ski area from the base, and describing them from right to left, they are: Lift Line, Main Run, Glade, Pitch, and Gully. For Lift Line and Main Run, you can either skin directly up your intended run, or, to preserve the powder, skin up in the trees to climber’s right of the ski runs. The second option is also a more mellow angle, which is nicer for the skinning, though it does add distance. For the remaining three runs—Glade, Pitch, and Gully—from the meadow at the base, skin directly up to your intended descent route.

Lift Line: From the top of the lift line, ski straight down. End in the meadow. 30 degrees.

Main Run: From the top of the lift line, make a descending traverse to skier’s right for 50–75 yards before beginning your descent. You’ll soon intersect the open run. As each stretch of open run closes out in the trees, stair-step to skier’s left to link up with more open runs. Eventually, this will funnel you into the largest ski run, which overlaps at the bottom with the lift line. End in the meadow. 25–30 degrees.

Glade: The Main Run and the Pitch are separated from one another by a stand of trees open enough to enjoyably link turns. 25-30 degrees.

Pitch: From the meadow, trend to climber’s left until you intersect a narrow open slot that leads up through the trees. Follow this slot up—it gets steep for skinning. When it seems to peter out, continue up and right, emerging into a much more open area. Follow the run up to its topmost point. 35 degrees.

Gully: From the top of the Pitch, continue up to climber’s left, intersecting an open, treeless gully. 40 degrees.

Looking down the lift line at Libby Creek

EXTRA CREDIT

Ski one of the other lost Snowy Range ski areas, which you pass on your way to Libby Creek if using approaches 2, 3, or 4. Refer to the topo map for their specific locations.

THE APRÈS SKI

The après ski scene isn’t exactly thriving in Centennial (population: 100), but the town has an authentic Wild West feel and you can find a beer and steak when you need ’em. Try the Old Corral Steakhouse (2750 Highway 130, 307-745-5918, www.oldcorral.com).