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Trip 4

FERN LAKE

THE ESSENTIALS

Nearest Town Estes Park

Distance 4.5 miles

Vertical 2300’

Season December to April

Elevation Range 8100’ to 10,400’

Difficulty Rating Moderate

Skiing Rating

SNOTEL Station Bear Lake (322)

Forest Zone Rocky Mountain National Park

CAIC Zone Front Range Mountains

USGS Quad McHenrys Peak

Weather COZ033

THE HISTORY

Fern Lake is unique in this book, in the sense that it never had lift service of any type, but it is included for its historical significance. The beginnings of skiing at Fern Lake date back to 1909, when Dr. William J. Workman—from Ashland, Kansas—traveled to Colorado and built a lodge at his favorite fishing location, Fern Lake. The original lodge was constructed during 1910, and completed by 1911. Up to 500 guests visited the lodge each winter, and every guest was asked to sign a red leather-bound log book. Eventually, adjoining and nearby smaller cabins and tents were added.

Through the efforts of Enos Mills, F. O. Stanley (of the Stanley Hotel), and Joe Mills (for whom the mountain above Fern and Odessa lakes is named), six years later, on September 4, 1915, Rocky Mountain National Park was dedicated. By then, tourism oriented toward the scenery and outdoor activities surrounding Estes was quickly becoming the mainstay of the economy. Ski trips from Estes Park into Rocky Mountain were increasingly popular. By 1924 a trip had even been completed over the Continental Divide and down into Granby on the west side.

In February 1916, just months after the dedication of the park, the Estes Park Outdoor Club guided directors of the Colorado Mountain Club into Workman’s lodge at Fern Lake for a “snow frolic.” That initial trip started an annual tradition. Each winter, the lodge would open for two weeks and host members of the Colorado Mountain Club for their winter outing. Supplies were primarily brought in during the fall and stored until winter. However, Ranger Jack Moomaw also skied in with crates full of fresh eggs. The National Park Service helped to improve the ski runs, and skiers also used readily available open slopes. Lectures were hosted at the cabin during annual Winter Festivals that took place every February or March. The presentation in 1918 was titled, “The National Park and Winter Sports.”

A trail sign nearly buried in snow

In May 1922, the Estes Park Chamber of Commerce hosted a banquet. National Parks Director Stephen Mather was the guest of honor. Leading up to the banquet, Mather had spent time inspecting the “ski courses” at Fern and Odessa lakes. He praised Rocky Mountain National Park for its “fine skiing,” and proclaimed that skiing could continue easily into the month of May. Mather planned for a road to be built to the Pool on the Big Thompson River, which would reduce the approach to Fern Lake by 2 miles. (No such luck—the trailhead remained 2 miles back, and the current winter road closure even farther away.)

During March 1924—around the same time that a group made a ski traverse over the Divide—Fern Lake hosted what must have been one of the earliest action sports films. Some 20 to 40 skiers were filmed over a 10-day period. Snow drifted as high as the peak of the roof of the Fern Lake cabin, and skiers were filmed skiing directly off the roof of the cabin. In another scene, one of the lodge’s two doors was completely drifted under. Skiers opened the door from the inside, and tunneled into the snow to within inches of the surface. Then, with the cameras rolling, they burst out of the seemingly pristine snowbank, jumped into the snow, got on their skis, and went off skiing.

One year later, in 1925, ranger Moomaw brought in a portable radio, which added a touch of comfort to the otherwise rustic lodge. The annual ski outings continued until around 1934, when the Colorado Mountain Club shifted its annual outing from Fern Lake to Grand Lake. Between 1934 and 1958, the lodge slowly faded out of use until its permit expired. Ownership changed hands several times. The once lavish dinners offered were scaled back to lunches, and then light snacks, and then simply refreshments. In 1938 the lodge closed for the winters, remaining open only during summer. Its National Park concession lease expired on December 31, 1958.

In 1959, the lodge was padlocked, and the other secondary buildings removed. Fern Lodge was kept for its historic value. Visitors could peer in through the windows and see a snapshot of life in yesteryear (some of the furniture from Fern Lodge is currently on display in the Moraine Park Museum). Sadly, the years 1969–1973 saw vandalism take a toll on the lodge. The National Park Service made one last attempt to save the building, but in 1976, burned it to the ground and “took back the land and restored it to its natural state.”

The site of the lodge is still visible—it’s a bare section of raised earth (a small, grassy meadow in summer) on the northeast side of Fern Lake, bounded by fencing and designated with an ENVIRONMENTAL RESTORATION sign. One can still see a cabin at the lake, however. In 1924, the park built a ranger cabin (closed to the public) in the trees on the northwest side of the lake. That cabin, renovated over the years, still stands.

THE TRAILHEAD

Begin at the Fern Lake winter trailhead, located within Rocky Mountain National Park. From downtown Estes Park, follow Route 36 to the Beaver Meadows Entrance. From the entrance gate, continue west for one quarter mile on Route 36 before making a left turn onto Bear Lake Road. After approximately 1.3 miles, turn right and follow signs for Moraine Park and Fern Lake. At mile 0.6, the road splits. Straight ahead, the road leads to Moraine Park. Turn left to continue to Fern Lake. Pass the Cub Lake Trailhead on your left, and arrive at the winter road closure for Fern Lake at mile 2.0 (as measured from when you turn off of Bear Lake Road). Park here (UTM: 13 447374 4467599).

The “Buzz”

Fern Lake is great for an outing to a spectacular location. It has more of a feel of exploration than of visiting an old ski area. Going there today must feel much like it did when the original CMC members made their outings decades ago.

—Kelli B.

THE APPROACH

From the trailhead, the first portion of the approach travels west on the road for 0.75 mile beyond the gate and the winter road closure, leading to the true Fern Lake Trailhead. Even in midwinter, this low-elevation road is likely to be melted out or blown clear to the gravel base by the wind. Strap your skis to your pack and hike it. At the true Fern Lake Trailhead, continue west on the well-signed and well-traveled Fern Lake Trail. Sections here can be icy or blown clear. Keep your skis on your back for now. After 1.7 miles (2.45 total), you’ll arrive at the Pool, where a bridge crosses the Big Thompson River (UTM: 13 443955 4466728). Finally, click into your skis and skins. Immediately after the Pool the trail forks. The left fork goes to Cub Lake. Take the right fork, which ascends a short rise before continuing west en route to Fern Lake. After about a half mile, you’ll reach a series of switchbacks that rapidly gain elevation (especially compared to the flat valley you just hiked) as you climb past Fern Falls. Two miles beyond the Pool, pass a signed trail junction for the primitive Spruce Lake Trail. Continue for 0.1 mile farther on the Fern Lake Trail, arriving at the north shore of Fern Lake after a total of 4.55 miles (UTM: 13 442597 4465496). The National Park Service Patrol Cabin, closed in winter, sits just in the trees off the northwest corner of the lake. If conditions permit, skin out onto the lake and admire the views of Joe Mills Mountain, the Little Matterhorn, and Notchtop. Otherwise, travel east and south around the northeastern perimeter of the lake on the continuation of the Fern Lake Trail to reach the base of the runs.

The National Park Service ranger patrol cabin on the north shore of Fern Lake

THE DESCENTS

Though trails were rumored to have been cut here, most descents around Fern Lake are of the “wild” variety—true backcountry skiing. Opportunities are nearly limitless in the cirques to the west of the lake. But for nearby runs, try two options: Round Pond and Marigold Lake.

Round Pond: From the eastern shore of Fern Lake, climb steeply up to Round Pond, at the saddle between Joe Mills Mountain and Mt. Wuh. Descend your ascent route.

Marigold Lake: From the southern shore of Fern Lake, climb south-southwest up to Marigold Lake, which sits beneath the steep north face of Joe Mills Mountain. Descend a series of open runs back to the lake.

THE APRÈS SKI

The nearest town, Estes Park, is littered with restaurant options.

Visit www.estesparkcvb.com/dining.cfm. When you’re ready for dessert, the caramel apples at Laura’s are divine (129 East Elkhorn Avenue, 866-586-4004, www.laurasfudgeofestes.com).