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CONTENTS

Cover

Front Matter

Introduction

1 Our unique sense of smell Is science always objective? A sense of danger, emotions and delight Notes

2 A pervasive stench The foul air of medieval towns Urban cesspits The smell of profit Pollutant trades Countryside smells Notes

3 Joyous matter A scholarly culture of scatology Aromatic blazons Humour in the conte The Way to Succeed Odorous wind Notes

4 Scent of a woman Demonizing the smell of women When ladies did not smell of roses At arm’s length Guilty women A breath of eroticism The gutter press A literary stink Death and the old woman Demonic pleasure Notes

5 The Devil’s breath Venomous vapours Plague-ridden towns Perfume as armour Perfumed rituals Rue, vinegar and tobacco Pomanders Notes

6 Musky scents Fountains of youth Ambergris, musk and civet The perfumed glove trade The eroticism of leather Nothing new under the Sun King? Drawing death’s sting The great animal slaughter Notes

10  7 Civilizing floral essences The perfume revolution Luxuriating in baths of scent Sensual faces Bodily hair care The scent of powder The emperor’s perfumer Notes

11  Conclusion

12  Sources and bibliography A note on quotations Principal manuscript sources Primary sources Select bibliography

13  Index

14  End User License Agreement

List of Figures

Figure 1 Isaac van Ostade, Village fair, with a church (detail), 1643.

Figure 2 Isaac van Ostade, Village fair, with a church, 1643.

Figure 3 Isaac van Ostade, Peasants outside a farmhouse butchering pork, 1641.

Figure 4 Pieter Bruegel the elder, Haberdasher despoiled by monkeys, 1562.

Figure 5 The five senses and for the first, smell. Collection of figures from the Jean Mè…

Figure 6 Engraving by the Dutch artist Crispin van De Passe.

Figure 7 Engraving by Jan Pieterszoon Saenredam after Hendrik Goltzius, Odoratus, 1595.

Figure 8 Allegory of the senses, attributed to Angelo Caroselli, oil on canvas.

Figure 9 The sense of smell (1625–7).

10 Figure 10 The sense of smell. A cherub presents a woman with a rose (c.1662–3). Engraving …

11 Figure 11 The sense of smell. After an engraving by Abraham Bosse, c.1638.

12 Figure 12 Months of the year: The sense of smell. March. Engraving by Jeremiah Falck. Prin…

13 Figure 13 Plague doctor’s outfit, Rome. Copperplate engraving by Paul Furst, 1656.

14 Figure 14 The sense of smell (1700). Paris, chez J. Mariette, rue Saint-Jacques, aux Colon…

15 Figure 15 The sense of smell (c.1695–6). A woman reclines on a divan, sniffing a flower. E…

16 Figure 16 Giuseppe Maria Crespi, known as lo Spagnolo, Girl with a rose and a cat (c.1700–…

17 Figure 17 Holder containing a set of four perfume bottles and a funnel, late seventeenth c…

18 Figure 18 Oriental bezoar mounted on a base shaped like an oak tree with a boar, c.1700.

19 Figure 19 Élisabeth-Louise Vigée-Le Brun, Portrait of Marie-Antoinette in a white muslin g

20 Figure 20 Élisabeth-Louise Vigée-Le Brun, Marie-Antoinette and her children, oil on canvas…

21 Figure 21 Élisabeth-Louise Vigée-Le Brun, Portrait of Charles-Alexandre de Calonne, oil on…

22 Figure 22 Jean-Baptiste-Pierre Le Brun, Self-Portrait, oil on canvas, 1795.3

23 Figure 23 Anonymous, ‘The garb of a perfumer’, c.1700.

Guide

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Table of Contents

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Smells

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