Читать книгу Best of Bordeaux - Rolf Bichsel - Страница 54
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Appellations Médoc
Bordeaux geography
Bordeaux covers around 120,000 hectares of vines in the
département of Gironde. The Garonne and the Dordogne rivers
split the region into the left bank of the Garonne (Médoc,
Graves, Sauternes) and the right bank of the Dordogne (Saint-
Emilion, Pomerol and Fronsac).
Médoc / Haut Médoc
16,300 hectares of vines I 1,400 chateaus I 150 million bottles a year
A headland stretching for almost a hundred kilometres between the Atlantic
to the west, and the Gironde Estuary, where the Garonne and Dordogne rivers
meet, to the east. In terms of wine style, a distinction can be drawn between
the southernmost part of the Médoc (the Haut Médoc) with its seven village
appellations and the northern part, the Médoc proper. Unlike the villages, which
have very uniform terroirs, the soils of the larger area are heterogeneous. Gently
undulating knolls of coarse gravel alternate with sand, clay and limestone soils.
The two main Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are almost
equally well represented and produce wines ranging in style from tart to elegant.
Margaux
1,400 hectares of vines I 90 producers I 10 million bottles a year
The southernmost village appellation (and therefore the closest to the city)
bears the name of a single village but in fact covers five: Margaux, Arsac, Can-
tenac, Labarde and Soussans. The soils consist of deep, well-draining gravel
mixed with sand and clay. Cabernet Sauvignon (which makes up the majority of
vineyards) does particularly well on the characteristic gravel hilltops whilst Mer-
lot prefers clayey plots. The best examples of Margaux wine can be recognised
by their exceptionally refined tannins, which turn out to be delicate and fresh
rather than compact and angular. The raspberry aroma found in young wines
here often reveals a perfect level of ripeness.
Moulis
600 hectares of vines I 40 producers I 4 million bottles a year
Moulis sits between Margaux and Listrac in the centre of the Médoc. Terroir-wise
Moulis is a compendium of almost the entire Haut-Médoc, containing examples
of almost all of the peninsula's different soil types: gravel, sand, limestone and
clay. The range of wines is similarly extensive, made from around 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon with Merlot, a little Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The best exam-
ples are well balanced and smooth.