Читать книгу Best of Bordeaux - Rolf Bichsel - Страница 55
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Right bank Appellations
Saint-Julien
920 hectares of vines I 26 producers I 6.5 million bottles a year
A substantial proportion of Saint-Julien's vineyards are to be found alongside
the Gironde estuary and in the middle of Haut-Médoc – so it is no surprise that
the appellation (in which the majority of wines come from classified estates) is
regularly described as the most reliable and consistent in the Médoc region. The
appellation covers a gravel-rich area 5 kilometres long and 3.5 kilometres wide.
Saint-Julien has by far the most uniform terroir in the Médoc. The proportion of
Cabernet Sauvignon used here is similar to in Pauillac. The juicy, elegant, excep-
tionally sensual and smoothly ample qualities of Saint-Julien wines make them
some of the most popular and well loved of any produced in the Médoc.
Pauillac
1,200 hectares of vines I 110 producers I 9 million bottles a year
Pauillac with its tiny harbour is the most important location in Haut-Médoc. It is
surrounded by the world-famous sites of three Premiers Crus, a handful of ‘su-
per seconds' and a number of ambitious estates following close behind. The ex-
tremely lean, deep gravel soils in the form of flat hilltops mixed with a little clay
and sand on the fringes, around two thirds of which are planted with Cabernet
Sauvignon, produce wines o
ff
ering density, structure, sophistication and power.
Saint-Estèphe
1,200 hectares of vines I 150 producers I 10 million bottles a year
Saint-Estèphe is the most northerly village appellation in the Médoc. It contains
only five classi
fi
ed but around 40 unclassi
fi
ed estates, which also produce ex-
cellent wines in good years. Saint-Estèphe is a goldmine for treasure seekers