Читать книгу Best of Bordeaux - Rolf Bichsel - Страница 56
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Appellations South Bordeaux
more interested in content than classification. Around half of the soils combin-
ing quartz, deep gravel and sand and clay over limestone are planted with Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, with Merlot making up an impressive 40%. The style ranges
from angular and robust (basic wines) to elegant and spirited.
Pessac-Léognan
1,600 hectares of vines I 75 producers I 10 million bottles a year
The fact that the cradle of Bordeaux (and thus of Grand Vin) in and around the
two Bordeaux suburbs of Pessac and Léognan has de
fi
ed urbanisation is virtu-
ally a miracle, and a tribute to the efforts of the chateau owners who fought for
the creation of their own appellation which has existed since the 1986 vintage.
Ever since, this appellation has produced both red wines (80% of bottles) and
dry whites on assorted undulations of gravel and sand. The rare limestone soils
are kept for the white wines. The best reds are elegant, slender, well structured
and suitable for laying down. The white wines are fruity and juicy, assuredly
ample and lively yet always well balanced and good for laying down.
Sauternes
2,200 hectares of vines I 200 producers I 4 million bottles a year
Barsac is part of Sauternes but not vice-versa, and these two villages together
with Bommes, Preignac and Fargues are situated on the left bank of the Garonne
around 40 kilometres south of Bordeaux. Semillon is the main variety at 80%,
supplemented by Sauvignon and some Muscadelle, growing on gravel, sand,
limestone and clay soils. The grapes are harvested late in multiple harvests. One
hectare in Sauternes produces around 1,500 to 2,000 bottles of sweet wine. Sau-
ternes wines have gained aromatic precision, finesse, freshness and sophistica-
tion. They are sweet and fruity but not clumsy, even quite light in their own
way. They make delicious aperitifs, are excellent accompaniments to modern
cuisine as well as Asian dishes and snacks, and can be drunk young or left to
age for decades.
Graves
3,500 hectares of vines I 240 producers I 20 million bottles a year
Graves begins at the city gates of Bordeaux: Pessac-Léognan is a village appella-
tion in this underrated region. It extends for around 60 kilometres along the left
bank of the Garonne as far as Langon and has characteristic gravel soils (‘graves'
in French) mixed with sand and clay. Around three quarters of its wines are pow-
erful, characterful reds. The whites offer structure and sophistication.