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ROUTE 5

Corrour Station to Glen Nevis

Start	Corrour station (NN 355 664)
Finish	Fort William station (NN 105 742)
Distance	33.5km/21 miles
Total ascent	150m/500ft
Time	1 long or 2 short days (9hr walking time)
Terrain	Small, rough paths
Max altitude	Tom an Eite 375m
Transport	Train (Scotrail) Fort William to Corrour. No road access to Corrour

The long valley starts at Corrour, a place reached by railway but by no road, with a restaurant and a youth hostel, and runs for 30km between two of Scotland’s highest mountain ranges. Along the way it passes a couple of handy bothies. At last it emerges round the back of Ben Nevis by a huge waterfall and a gorge: this is where, if anywhere, Scotland becomes Himalayan.

While it’s the last day of long backpack trips from almost anywhere, the early train (7.40am) from Fort William lets you do this as a day walk. Route 4 allows you to walk the riverside for those last 10km, but you may prefer the road, where any passing car will be a climber or walker and might offer a lift, even to the muddy. (You can’t phone for a taxi on your mobile; mobiles won’t work.)

See overview map Ben Nevis & Glen Coe north. Start from Corrour station on the west side of the railway, where a rough and often soggy track runs beside the railway line. After 2km, the firm track from Loch Ossian emerges from under the railway. Or else, for clean feet and legs, head east from the station to the track around Loch Ossian.

Start from Loch Ossian youth hostel

Loch Ossian youth hostel

Turn right on the track towards Corrour station, then right on a side track at a waymark arrow. In 200 metres the track bends left; at once, turn off left on a rugged old track. After 400 metres this joins a much newer one, running west to pass under the railway in the bed of a stream.

Follow the track down to Loch Treig, and then around it; at the foot of Gleann Iolairean it reverts to its rough state. The track ends at Abhainn Rath near Creaguaineach Lodge. If you’re heading for Staoineag bothy, and if the river under the bridge is in spate, don’t cross but head upstream to left of the river. Cross the slippery wooden bridge and turn left upstream, on a path that’s sometimes a delight on firm green riverbank and sometimes less pleasant. After 2km you pass the charmingly situated Staoineag bothy on the opposite bank; with normal summer water levels you can cross to it on large stones. The better path continues to right of the river. After another 3km the valley floor levels, and the path bears away from the river across bog to visit Meanach (Meannanach) bothy (see Route 45). It regains the riverbank opposite Luibeilt.

The OS map marks the path continuing on the southern bank of Abhainn Rath. However, the crossing can be awkward, and I’ve always kept my feet dry and stayed on the path on the northern bank. After 2.5km, the river turns up in front of you, so now you must cross it to the small landmark knoll Tom an Eite. The best crossing is 100 metres north of the knoll (NN 241 695; 15km, 4hr).

A new path heads downstream then turns right, passing immediately to left of Tom an Eite. The path is clear, and mostly not boggy, as it heads down to right of a small stream that gradually develops to become the Water of Nevis.

Steall Falls

After 7km the path gets much better, as you cross a footbridge to emerge onto the level meadow with the high Steall Falls on the opposite side of the river. Here the three-strand wire bridge across Water of Nevis does not need to be crossed (Steall hut, on the further side, is a private and locked club hut). Continue to right of the river, into the narrows at the top of Nevis Gorge. See Route 2 for exciting side-paths here. The path now is very well built, but with steep drops on the left to the roaring river: in the dark this section is spectacular. After 1km the path reaches the car park at the top of Glen Nevis.

From here it’s 12km mostly tarmac to Fort William, or 7km if you cleverly booked into Glen Nevis youth hostel. After 1km, take a footbridge onto a well made and pretty path to left of the river, to rejoin the road near the Lower Falls. From the Lower Falls, Route 4 offers a riverside alternative, which is delightful if you have the energy – start by turning right, back across the river.