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2 BEN NEVIS AND THE AONACHS

Ben Nevis half-way plateau (Route 7)

Ben Nevis is a hill of two halves – except that the northern half has been carried away by a glacier and isn’t there. Instead there’s the hollow of the Allt a’ Mhuilinn burn, and the biggest crag in Britain.

The very popular Mountain Track, on the mountain’s western side, misses all that. It’s a harsh trudge on a stony path, and Ben Nevis being the biggest, it’s the harshest trudge in all UK hillwalking. If you enjoy the Mountain Track, then every one of Scotland’s remaining 281 hills will be even better! Round the back, however, there’s the Carn Mor Dearg Arête. Not quite a scramble, it’s a spectacular granite ridge, with an outstanding view of the northern crags. Meanwhile the Ledge Route, which is a scramble (albeit a fairly easy one), gets right in among those crags.

On either of those routes, the sudden arrival at the summit, with its crowds, its cairns, and its litter, comes as a horrid shock – so avoid the top altogether. The Half Nevis takes you instead into the fine northern valley; and Meall an t-Suidhe, as a stand-alone or as a side-trip on the descent, has views of Loch Linnhe better than you get from the big Ben itself.

Summit summary: Ben Nevis

BEN NEVIS ROUTES

Route 7 Ben Nevis by the Mountain Track

Route 8 Carn Mor Dearg Arête

Route 9 Ledge Route

Route 10 Half Ben Nevis (CIC Hut)

Route 11 Meall an t-Suidhe

Route 12 Carn Mor Dearg East Ridge