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ROUTE 13

Aonach Beag from the Back

Start/Finish	End of public road, Glen Nevis (NN 167 691)
Distance	14.5km/9 miles
Total ascent	1350m/4500ft
Time	7hr
Terrain	Small paths, grassy ridge, stony plateau
Max altitude	Aonach Beag 1234m

Do the ethics of Munro-bagging allow the Nevis Range gondola? Do you even want to, if it means a trudge up Aonach Mor under the chairlifts, and a simple plateau walk to Aonach Beag? For more mountain fun, take the back way, by Glen Nevis. You’ll come through the magnificent Nevis Gorge, and pass the Steall waterfall. You’ll go between great mountains, and head up Aonach Beag by the way that actually feels like the seventh highest in the land. Then you’ll descend by the grim and granitty bealach beside Carn Mor Dearg. (If you don’t despise the gondola, there’s a nice way up Aonach Mor on that side as well – see Route 14.)

Start from the far end of the car park, where a wide smooth path contours through beautiful woodland above the Nevis Gorge. At the head of the gorge the path emerges suddenly into a narrow meadow. This was a lochan until the river broke through the rock bar at the top of the gorge. Above on the right is the spectacular Steall waterfall. Keep to left of the river, and after 1km cross a small footbridge over Allt Coire Giubhsachan. Straight after the footbridge, strike left (northeast) on a small path to right of Allt Coire nan Laogh stream, then up a steepening grassy hillside to a shoulder at 800m. A gentler ridge leads up east, to the minor top Sgurr a’ Bhuic.

Now the going gets more interesting, as well as rather more horizontal. Head east of north along the top of steep rocky slopes falling to the right. The ridge drops to a col at 895m, then rises to a corner above steep spurs descending east and north. The ridgeline turns left, first west then northwest, to the summit of Aonach Beag. The view across the Carn Mor Dearg Arête to the great north face of Ben Nevis is compelling.

Aonach Mor (Nevis Range) from Aonach Beag

Head north beside drops on the right for 150 metres, then head down northwest on rough path to a col. Now a broad slope of short grass, with a path, leads gently upwards for 1.2km to the summit of Aonach Mor, the lowest of Scotland’s nine 4000ers.

Now you need to find the descent point for Bealach Giubhsachan, the pass 300m below. In clear weather, return southwards down the gentle grassy plateau, looking for a small path soon forking off right. In mist, the easiest way is to follow the top of the steep slope that forms the right (west) edge of the grassy plateau. Where this edge bends back to the left (NN 1915 7219) is the top of a zigzag path heading directly down the steep slope below. This slope can hold steep, hard snow, even into early summer. If you’re unhappy about that, or if you fail to find the drop-off point, it’s safest to retrace the outward route over Aonach Beag. This only adds 30mins to the walk.

Having found the steep little path, descend it. The gritty granite soil is fragile so stick to the zigzags; any short-cutting will worsen the erosion. At the bottom, the deep and wide pass Bealach Giubhsachan has a few little pools.

Descend to the left (south) into Coire Giubhsachan. A small path forms to right of the stream. If time or energy are short, this path leads right down to the Glen Nevis path, passing some waterfalls low down. However, the more interesting continuation heads out to the right at about the 600m contour, to the col Bealach Cumhann. Turn left up a gentle ridge of grass and rock to Meall Cumhann’s summit. Meall Cumhann means the Hill of the Gorge; and indeed, the Nevis Gorge is directly between your toes. However, the horizontal views up and down Glen Nevis are equally spectacular.

Return north to Bealach Cumhann, and slant down across a fairly steep and pathless slope towards the long waterslide of the Allt Coire Eoghainn. Beware of the waterworn slabs alongside the watersplash, the site of accidents. A small path runs down the near side of the stream to the car park.