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Venison Marinated in Blackcurrants

There is something very right about eating deer accompanied by berries. Deer can be a pest, roaming the countryside on an endless raid. They nibble the young shoots of brambles, preventing them cropping, and given half a chance will do the same with cultivated fruit in gardens. There is only one way to combat deer break-ins, and that is to feast on the intruders themselves. Revenge is a dish served hot.

Serves 4–6

1.25kg/2¾lb well-hung venison saddle, boned and rolled

450g/1lb fresh blackcurrants

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 small onion, chopped

85g/3oz butter, at room temperature

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the vegetables:

55g/2oz butter

2 shallots, finely chopped

200g/7oz pot barley

450g/1lb curly kale, shredded into fine strips

Put the venison in a ceramic dish and cover with the blackcurrants. Leave to marinate in the fridge for several hours, turning occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9. Lift the venison out of the marinade and put it in a roasting tin. Season with black pepper, place in the oven and roast for about 10 minutes, then turn the heat down to 175°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and roast for another 20 minutes. Test with a skewer (see the roast beef) or a meat thermometer. Rare venison should give a reading of about 50°C/125°F in the centre. Leave the meat to rest for 20 minutes, covered with foil in a warm place.

While the venison is roasting, prepare the vegetables: melt half the butter in a pan, add the shallots and cook until soft. Add the barley, stir-fry for a minute or two, then cover with water. Bring to the boil, turn down to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes. Add the kale and cook for another 10 minutes, until both barley and kale are tender. Beat in the remaining butter and season with salt and pepper. To make the sauce, put the oil in a pan, add the garlic and onion and cook gently until tender. Add the blackcurrants from the marinade and cook until they are soft. Beat in the butter and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Have ready some warm plates before you carve the venison, as it cools very quickly. Serve a few slices to each person, with a little sauce and the barley and kale beside.