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PORK CHEEK VINDALOO

I have borrowed heavily from Arun Kapil’s recipe, although

the meat is treated differently. I have also used pork cheeks,

since their rich, gelatinous texture lends itself perfectly

both to the vinegar and the robust flavouring. Kapil

suggests adding a bird’s-eye chilli, but I left it out. I am told

that Goans prefer bread to rice, but I ignored that too.

Serves at least six.

1.5kg (3lb 5oz) pork cheeks

2 teaspoons black

peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

6 cardamom pods, bashed

and seeds removed

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

6 cloves

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

200ml (7fl oz) cider vinegar

10 garlic cloves, peeled and

grated

125g (4½oz) piece of fresh

root ginger, peeled and

grated

2 onions, peeled and grated

1 tablespoon tomato purée

2 teaspoons chilli flakes

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

1 cinnamon stick

2 teaspoons golden caster

sugar

100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable oil,

plus extra for cooking the

onions

3 onions, peeled and finely

sliced

juice of 1 lime

1 bunch of fresh coriander

leaves, roughly chopped

salt

Trim the pork cheeks, removing any really tough sinews,

then cut each one into three or four smaller nuggets.

Prepare the marinade. Grind the peppercorns,

coriander seeds, cardamom seeds, cumin, cloves and

fennel seeds using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle.

Place in a large bowl and add the vinegar, garlic, ginger,

grated onions, tomato puree, chilli flakes, turmeric,

cinnamon and sugar and mix to a paste. Add the pork,

massaging the paste into the meat well. Cover with

clingfilm and refrigerate overnight, or for at least 6 hours.

Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F, Gas Mark 1). Add

500ml (18fl oz) water to the marinade, enabling you to lift

out the pieces of meat. Dry these on kitchen paper, then

season well with salt. In a heavy-based frying pan, fry the

meat, in batches, in the vegetable oil, taking care to colour

them on all sides.

In a heavy casserole dish, stew the finely sliced onions

gently in the extra oil for about 15 minutes, or until soft,

then add the fried meat before pouring in the marinade,

stirring well and bringing to a simmer, making sure there

is enough water to cover the meat.

Cover carefully and cook the stew in the oven for

3 hours, or until the meat is completely tender. The stew

must not boil but cook at a very gentle temperature. Check

the seasoning for salt and sharpen the flavour with lime

juice. The vindaloo should be very piquant but not

burningly hot. Sprinkle with the chopped fresh coriander

leaves and serve with plenty of plain boiled basmati rice.

WINE: Whereas I don’t think chilli necessarily spoils wine

the cumulative effect of the chilli and vinegar will destroy

all but the most alcoholic blockbuster Shiraz or Zinfandel.

A cold lager or lassi might be a better option.

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