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PASTA E CECI

Cooking the chickpeas yourself is preferable both

economically and on grounds of taste, but if you want to

make this a storecupboard standby there are excellent

bottled or tinned chickpeas available, which allow this recipe

to be made in 25 minutes: you’ll need about 1kg (2lb 4oz).

Serves six to eight.

500g (1lb 2oz) dried

chickpeas

1 large red chilli

a few sprigs of rosemary

50ml (13⁄4fl oz) olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and

very finely chopped

1 carrot, peeled and very

finely chopped

1 celery stick, very finely

chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and

very finely chopped

200g (7oz) canned chopped

tomatoes, best quality

available

1 small teaspoon salt

1 small teaspoon golden

caster sugar

1 teaspoon chilli flakes

300g (10½oz) small soup

pasta (macceroncini,

ditalini, maruzzini,

tubettini, etc.)

freshly ground black pepper

50g (13⁄4oz) Parmesan or

Pecorino cheese, finely

grated, to serve

Rinse the chickpeas in cold water, removing the very small

and hard ones and any bits that float to the surface, and

soak in a large volume of cold water overnight.

The next day, drain the chickpeas, place in a saucepan,

cover with fresh water and bring to the boil, skimming off

any scum that rises to the surface. Turn the heat down,

add the chilli and rosemary and simmer, without salt, for

a couple of hours until tender, topping up with water if

necessary. Once cooked, remove from the heat and allow

the chickpeas to cool in their liquid.

Heat a deep, heavy, flameproof casserole dish with the

olive oil, then add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic and

gently soften for 10 minutes before adding the tomatoes.

Season with the salt, sugar, a good grinding of black

pepper and the chilli flakes. Add the chickpeas and

enough of their liquor to keep them afloat and simmer

for 10 minutes.

Making sure there is enough liquid to cook the pasta,

add it to the soup and continue to cook for 8–10 minutes

until the pasta is al dente. The finished soup should have

just enough liquid to cover the pasta and chickpeas, but

no more. Check the seasoning and serve with the grated

cheese alongside.

WINE: There is no restriction on what to drink here, the

rich, suave flavours being savoury and unaggressive.

Simple, youthful wines with good acidity would be ideal.

If I must plump for one, let it be for an aromatic but robust

Central Italian white such as Fiano d’Avellino, Pecorino or

Greco di Tufo. That said, a young red would do just as well.

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