Читать книгу A Long and Messy Business - Rowley Leigh - Страница 41

GRIDDLED MACKEREL FILLETS WITH RHUBARB

The astringent note from rhubarb makes a brilliant adjunct

to any oily fish, fulfilling the same role as lemon or that of

gooseberries in a few months’ time.

Serves two.

2 large mackerel, weighing

about 300g (10½oz) each

1 tablespoon golden caster

sugar

3 star anise

6 cloves

6 thin slices of peeled root

ginger

½ teaspoon chilli flakes, plus

extra for sprinkling

(optional)

1 large rhubarb stalk

12 mint or basil leaves

olive oil, for drizzling

salt

Fillet the mackerel as described on page 61. Dip the fillets

in very cold water and pat dry on kitchen paper.

Refrigerate until ready to use, lightly salting the flesh side

20 minutes before cooking.

Combine the sugar and spices in a very small saucepan

and add 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) cold water. Bring the mixture to a

simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Cut the rhubarb into

finger lengths and then cut each piece into four batons.

Drop these into the syrup and poach them for 2 minutes,

or until they just begin to soften. Remove from the heat.

Heat a non-stick frying pan. Place the mackerel fillets,

skin-side down, in the dry pan and place a wire rack or

plate on top to prevent the fillets from curling and to

ensure all the skin is in contact with the hot pan. Leave the

fillets to cook for a good 3 minutes – they will release some

of their oil as they do so – or until you can see the heat

penetrating up through two-thirds of the fillet. Turn them

to seal the flesh side very briefly – 30 seconds at most –

then lift out of the pan.

Quickly bring the rhubarb back to a simmer. Scatter

the mint leaves – torn in half, if large – over the fish, then

arrange the rhubarb on top of the fish, spooning over some

of the syrup, omitting the star anise, cloves and ginger but

including the chilli. Sprinkle a few more chilli flakes over

if liked. Drizzle a little olive oil over the fish and serve.

Plain pilaff rice is the best accompaniment.

WINE: The racy acidity of a Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect

partner for this fish. The upper Loire, from Sancerre and

Pouilly up to Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon, provides

ideal examples.

63

February