Читать книгу Chinese Feasts & Festivals - S. C. Moey - Страница 15

Meat Recipes

For millions of Chinese battling constantly with shortages, meat on the table has always been a sign of better times. When there is a reason to feast, adequate is not nearly good enough. Abundance—if one has the means to afford it—is better, symbolizing luck and good fortune.

In Chinese festival cooking, pork, mutton and beef are all used, but pork is the celebratory meat: the nourishment of gods, favored by man, and coveted by spirits. Whole roast pigs are standard offerings at clan gatherings, weddings and thanksgiving celebrations. According to some provincial customs, they are also obligatory at funerals. When the festivities are over, the meat is carved up and distributed. Friends and relatives in attendance can look forward to taking “a piece of luck” home and sharing it with their families. At home, where such excesses are not possible or even practical during festival times, the gods understandingly exact no more than a modest joint of roast pork as appeasement.

Feasting on roast pigs at weddings and funerals was a custom of the Manchurian people. At such functions, the piece de resistance—a whole cooked pig—was placed on a red carpet on the floor. Guests armed with knives sat around the pig and helped themselves to whichever part took their fancy. When the Manchus ruled China during the Qing Dynasty, imperial approval raised the boar’s esteem to new heights. Every day at the imperial palace, two pigs were cooked to venerate the gods. During the Chinese New Year, the emperor himself would present the offerings. When the ceremony was over, the meat was distributed among his retainers. Those who performed well during the year were assured of a portion.

While pork owed much of its popularity to the Qing potentates, mutton was a legacy of the Mongols. Lamb was brought into China by these invaders from the desert interior, the founders of the Yuan Dynasty. But the Chinese soon discovered new ways to cook the meat. It is used in much the same way as beef, treated with ginger and spring onions to transform the strong flavor characteristic of red meats to one of subtlety, much preferred by the Chinese. Pot roasts and stir-fries are popular methods of cooking. Another favorite style is fondue—steamboat or firepot is also used to describe this mode of eating—where thin slices of meat are dipped into boiling stock together with other items, including vegetables. Beef and mutton, however, do not add up to ambrosia. Though regularly served at the festive table, particularly in the northern and interior provinces, they are food for the enjoyment of man and need not be offered to the gods, a sign of their “foreign” origins.

Roast Pork

Although it is not difficult, Chinese housewives rarely prepare roast pork at home, as it is so readily available. Everyone has her favorite roast pork vendor, and he can be found anywhere: in the marketplace or a neighborhood food shop. Frequently, such vendors have a whole roast pig to carve from, to the satisfaction of their customers. Gods take the meat plain but man may need a dash of soy, oyster or hoisin sauce to enhance the meat.

2½ lbs (1 kg) pork belly with skin left on, cleaned and dried

Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish

Soy sauce, oyster sauce or hoisin sauce, to serve

SEASONING A

2 teaspoons five spice powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 clove garlic, finely minced

2 teaspoons minced coriander leaves (cilantro)

½ teaspoon sugar

SEASONING B

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vinegar

1 Place the pork on a flat surface with the skin side down and using a fine needle, prick the meat all over at close intervals. Combine all the ingredients for Seasoning A in a small bowl and mix well, then rub the mixture into the meat. Turn the meat over and using a sharp needle, score the skin by making deep pricks at close intervals. Combine the ingredients for Seasoning B in a small bowl and rub the mixture into the skin. Place the pork in a heatproof dish with the skin side up and leave overnight in the refrigerator, uncovered.

2 Preheat the oven to very hot (480˚F/250˚C).

3 Roast the pork, skin side up, in the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350˚F (180˚C) and continue roasting for another 50 minutes. Remove the pork from the oven.

4 Set the oven to broil and return the pork to brown for 10 to 15 minutes, until browned and the skin is bubbly.

5 Slice the roast pork into long strips and cut into thin rectangular pieces. Arrange on a serving platter, garnish with coriander leaves (cilantro) and serve hot or cold with dipping bowls of soy, oyster or hoisin sauce on the side.

Serves 4 to 6

Preparation time: 20 mins + overnight to marinate

Cooking time: 1 hour 15 mins

Pork and Taro Bowl

This is the festive Hakka dish, obligatory for every Hakka celebration. If you have a busy schedule, you can buy roast pork from the nearest Chinese take-away instead of making it. Red preserved bean curd (nam yee) has a pungent flavor rather like strong cheese. It comes in cubes packed in jars or bottles and is available in Asian food stores.

Oil for deep-frying

1 taro (about 1 lb/500 g), peeled and sliced

1 lb (500 g) roast pork, sliced

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons red preserved bean curd (nam yee)

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup (250 ml) water

Sprig of coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish

CRISPY GARLIC

2 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon sliced garlic

1 Prepare the Crispy Garlic first by heating the oil in a wok over medium heat and stir-frying the garlic for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant and golden brown. Remove the fried garlic and oil from the pan and set aside.

2 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat until hot. Deep-fry the taro pieces until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels.

3 Line a deep bowl or casserole dish with a layer of the pork slices, skin side down, and top with a layer of deep-fried taro pieces. Repeat, alternating the pork and taro layers until both ingredients are used up. Set aside.

4 Combine the Crispy Garlic and oil with all the other ingredients (except the coriander leaves) in a saucepan. Gently heat over medium-low heat until it just boils. Remove from the heat and pour over the pork and taro layers.

5 Set the pork and taro bowl on a steaming rack inside a wok (see page 19) or steamer and steam for about 1 hour. Remove and set aside to cool. Place a serving platter over the bowl or casserole dish and carefully invert the pork and taro onto the serving platter, keeping the pieces neatly layered. Garnish with coriander leaves (cilantro) and serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation time: 25 mins

Cooking time: 1 hour 10 mins

Five Spice Rolls

Five Spice Pork Rolls (ngo hiang) are a Fukienese favorite and can be prepared several hours in advance. Keep in the refrigerator until ready to fry. Dried sheets of bean curd skin are traditionally used to wrap them and can be bought from health food stores or Chinese grocers.

1 lb (500 g) lean pork, cut into strips

2 large onions, minced

6 water chestnuts, peeled and diced

4 large sheets dried bean curd skin

2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water

3 cups (750 ml) oil

10 to 12 lettuce leaves, to garnish

Hoisin sauce, for dipping

MARINADE

2 eggs, beaten

2 teaspoons soy sauce

½ teaspoon five spice powder

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

SWEET AND SOUR DIP

4 tablespoons Chinese plum sauce

2 tablespoons bottled sweet chili sauce

4 tablespoons sugar

4 tablespoons vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sesame seeds, dry-roasted in a pan for 2 to 3 minutes over low heat

1 Combine the Marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Place the pork strips and onion in the Marinade and mix until well coated. Allow to marinate for 2 to 3 hours. Add the diced water chestnut to the marinated ingredients, combine well and divide into 16 equal portions.

2 Wipe the dried bean curd skin with a damp cloth to soften them, then cut the sheets into sixteen 6-in (15-cm) squares. Set aside.

3 Prepare the Sweet and Sour Dip by combining all the ingredients (except the sesame seeds) in a serving bowl and mixing well. Scatter the sesame seeds on top and set aside.

4 To make the pork rolls, place a bean curd skin square on a dry surface. Spread a portion of the marinated pork mixture in a straight line along the end of the square nearest you, leaving a 1-in (2½-cm) edge on either side. Fold the edge of the square nearest you over the filling, then fold in the sides and roll up tightly, pressing firmly as you roll. Before you reach the far edge of the square, lightly dab the inside with the cornstarch solution so it sticks and seals the roll. Continue rolling until the roll forms a tight cylinder. Place the roll on a plate with the seamed side down. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make a total of 16 pork rolls.

5 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat until very hot. Carefully lower the pork rolls into the hot oil, a few at a time, and deep-fry for 4 to 5 minutes, turning the rolls until crispy and golden brown on all sides. Remove and drain on paper towels.

6 Slice each roll into disks and arrange them on a serving platter lined with lettuce leaves. Serve hot with dipping bowls of Sweet and Sour Dip, and hoisin sauce on the side.

Makes 16 rolls

Preparation time: 1 hour 15 mins + 3 hours to marinate

Cooking time: 15 mins

Braised Pork Leg

Emblematic of wealth, luck and success, Fatt Choy Chow Sau, the Cantonese name for this recipe, which means “Prosperity at Hand,” is just the right dish to put on the festive table. Everything lies in the ingredients. Fatt choy (black sea moss) rhymes with “prosperity.” Mushrooms are round, symbolic of coins and money. All of these are placed within the “hand,” represented by the foreleg of pork. The Cantonese traditionally serve this dish to wish themselves good luck and good fortune on the second day of the Chinese New Year when they hold a noon feast to “open” the year.

1 pork foreleg (3½ lbs/1½ kg)

1 tablespoon oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

12 dried black Chinese mushrooms, soaked until soft, stems discarded

1 cup (15 g) dried black sea moss (fatt choy), soaked until soft, then rinsed well and squeezed dry

6 dried red dates(hongzao) or ½ teaspoon sugar

3 cups (750 ml) water

½ teaspoon salt

Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish

MARINADE

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon black soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 Sear the pork in an ungreased wok over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, turning over once or twice. Remove from the wok and set aside to cool. Combine the Marinade ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Pour the Marinade over the pork and rub it in with your fingers until the pork is evenly coated. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

2 Heat the oil in the wok over high heat. Stir-fry the garlic until fragrant and golden brown, 30 seconds. Add the pork and Marinade, mushrooms, black sea moss, red dates or sugar and enough water to cover the pork. Bring the ingredients to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 1 to 1½ hours until the pork is tender and the gravy has reduced to half. Season with the salt and remove from the heat.

3 Transfer the pork and other ingredients to a serving platter, and pour the gravy over it. Garnish with coriander leaves (cilantro) and serve hot. If preferred, the gravy may be thickened with 1 teaspoon of cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon of water and simmered for about 1 minute before adding it to the dish.

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation time: 20 mins + 30 mins to marinate

Cooking time: 1½ hours

Stir-fried Beef with Snow Peas

Cooked this way, beef is both tender and tasty. The addition of snow peas goes very well with the beef. Other vegetables may be added including: bell peppers, spring onions, asparagus, bean sprouts, leeks, tomatoes, kailan, cabbage, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, onions or celery. Combinations of these also work well.

1 cup (100 g) snow peas, tops and tails removed

2 tablespoons oil

1 clove garlic, minced

8 slices fresh young ginger

1 lb (500 g) beef steak, sliced into long thin strips

½ cup (125 ml) water

1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in

1 tablespoon water

MARINADE

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 Bring 2 cups (500 ml) of water and ¼ teaspoon of salt to a boil over high heat in a small saucepan. Blanch the snow peas for about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat, drain and set aside.

2 Combine the Marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Add the beef strips and mix until well coated. Marinate for 30 minutes.

3 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat until very hot. Stir-fry the garlic until fragrant and golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ginger and stir-fry for 1 more minute. Add the beef and the Marinade, and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes or until the meat changes color. Gather the beef mixture to the sides of the wok and add the water to the center. Bring the water to a boil, pour in the cornstarch solution and combine well. Stir in the beef mixture from the sides and add the snow peas. Stir-fry for 1 minute until the sauce thickens, and remove the dish from the heat.

4 Transfer the dish to a serving platter and serve hot with steamed rice.

Serves 4 to 6

Preparation time: 20 mins + 30 mins to marinate

Cooking time: 10 mins

Pot Roast Beef

This roasting style is very popular in the northern provinces and is often termed “red cooked”—a direct translation of the Cantonese word hung siew used to describe the cooking method. The meat may be served hot or cold, and the sauce is normally served separately. Leftover sauce can be saved and used to flavor stocks, stews, soups or meat dishes.

1 tablespoon sugar

3 lbs (1½ kg) stewing beef

2 cloves garlic, bruised

2 in (5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

1 star anise pod

1 teaspoon peppercorns

1 cup (250 ml) soy sauce

2 tablespoons black soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice wine

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 to 3 cups (500 to 750 ml) water

Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish

1 Caramelize the sugar by heating it in a pot over low heat until it turns golden brown. Add the beef and all the other ingredients (except the coriander leaves) and enough water to cover the beef, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 3 to 3½ hours or until the beef is tender. Remove the beef from the saucepan and reserve the sauce. Thinly slice the beef and arrange on a serving platter.

2 Reheat the reserved sauce over medium heat and simmer until it has reduced to about 1 cup (250 ml). Remove from the heat and pour the hot sauce over the beef slices. Garnish with coriander leaves (cilantro) and serve hot with steamed rice.

3 Alternatively, leave the beef and the sauce to cool for 1½ to 2 hours in the saucepan, turning the beef over once. Remove the beef from the pan and thinly slice. Arrange the beef slices on a serving platter, garnish with coriander leaves (cilantro) and serve cold with or without the sauce.

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation time: 10 mins

Cooking time: 3½ hours

Spicy Sichuanese Lamb

Sichuanese recipes literally contain a lot of “ammunition.” Dried chilies are liberally used although the quantity can be varied to taste. The chilies are normally not eaten as they are too fiery—they are used only to flavor the sauce—and you should warn your guests to set them aside.

1 lb (500 g) lamb steaks

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil

5 dried chilies, broken into 2 to 3 parts and deseeded, soaked until soft, then drained

1 spring onion, sliced diagonally, to garnish

MARINADE

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 tablespoon ginger juice, (from 3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger)

1 tablespoon rice wine

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon sugar

1 Trim the fat from the lamb and discard. Slice the meat into fairly thin strips. Place in a large bowl and rub the lamb with salt, then set aside.

2 Combine the Marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix well. Place the lamb in the Marinade and mix until well coated. Allow to marinate for at least 1 hour.

3 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat until smoky hot. Add the chilies and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the lamb and the Marinade, and stir-fry for 4 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high and continue to stir-fry for another 5 to 10 minutes, constantly stirring and turning the ingredients to prevent them from burning, until the sauce is completely absorbed and the meat is dry. Remove from the wok and transfer to a serving platter.

4 Garnish with the spring onion and serve hot with steamed rice.

Serves 4 to 6

Preparation time: 20 mins + 1 hour to marinate

Cooking time: 15 mins

Lamb in Aspic