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WALK ONE

Snowdon Horseshoe

The Snowdon Horseshoe from above Capel Curig

This route is the classic walk in North Wales, arguably in the whole of Wales, and is a must for all strong walkers. ‘Strong’ is the operative word here, because the circuit is very tiring and can leave even experienced walkers jaded towards the end. Sadly, its appeal draws walkers who are not prepared for the exposed narrowness of the Crib Goch ridge, nor the descent of Snowdon followed by a weary climb onto Y Lliwedd. But it is quite spectacular and deservedly popular.

The Route

The early part of the circuit is shared with the so-called Pyg Track (see Walk 4), which leaves the Pen y Pass car park in a westerly direction, heading for the pointed cone of Crib Goch seen in the distance. The track rises in a series of rocky steps beneath the long ridge leading to an unnamed minor summit just to the east of Bwlch y Moch. This ridge, which can be gained quite easily after the initial steepness of the Pyg Track, is by far a more rewarding way to begin the ascent not least because the unnamed summit is technically the first nail in the Snowdon horseshoe – one for the purists, then.

At Bwlch y Moch (Pass of the Pigs), the path forks, left (and actually descending for a short while) to continue following the Pyg Track, and right, to tackle the steep rocky slopes of Crib Goch.

The ascent and traverse of Crib Goch is one of the finest ridge walks in Britain, although ‘walk’ is hardly the right word. This is hands-on, and the ridge wants only for more length to make it a hugely different undertaking. From Bwlch y Moch the way up Crib Goch is so popular and therefore well-defined that there is little need to attempt to describe the route in detail. In any case, the physical configuration of the many rock outcrops is such that a description would be difficult to follow. The way, however, is not confusing; at half height there is a brief rock wall which may seem intimidating (more so in descent), but there are ample hand holds to facilitate a scrambly passage to easier ground above, and then by a final pull to the eastern end of the summit ridge. Take time, frequently, to pause and study the way you are going before you move. Do not blindly follow the person in front.

ROUTE INFORMATION

Distance	11km/6¾ miles
Height gain	1110m/3640ft
Time	5–6 hours
Grade	arduous
Start point	Pen y Pass SH647555
Getting there	Pen y Pass car park; fills quite quickly, so consider taking the hourly Snowdon Sherpa shuttle bus from Llanberis or Nant Peris
Maps	(Harvey Superwalker) Snowdonia and the Moelwynion; (Ordnance Survey) OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa
After-walk refreshment	Pen y Pass; Pen y Gwryd; Nant Peris; Llanberis

Contrary to popular belief, the actual summit of Crib Goch is not at this eastern end, but nearer to the middle of the ridge, marked by a tiny cairn placed on the very edge of the steep drop into Cwm Glas to the north; most people never even notice it.

The crossing of the ridge requires a good head for heights and will be made considerably more difficult in strong winds (from any direction). Keeping to the crest all the way is nigh on impossible, and the best way, when the ridge narrows dramatically, is to keep to the left (southern) side, which allows hands to be used more readily. In winter conditions, Crib Goch is a place for only the most experienced and properly equipped walkers.

At the far end of the ridge lie the Pinnacles, which can be either crossed with care, or bypassed on the southern side to gain respite on a brief col before pressing on up Crib y Ddysgl and on to Carnedd Ugain. A short descent from the Pinnacles leads to a narrow ridge with a minor bump in the middle, and then a more grassy section before it finally comes up against a shattered rock wall. Most walkers at this point tend to go left a little, to scramble through the rocks. But there is a satisfactory alternative directly ahead, up a short and narrow rock gully from the top of which it is possible to keep nearer to the crest of the ridge with correspondingly better views to the left and right. A short distance further on, the ridge narrows abruptly affording a scrambly route along the crest, or an easier option on the north side. Both ways are well trodden and lead to the trig pillar on the summit of Carnedd Ugain.

From Carnedd Ugain there is a short descent to join the route from Llanberis and the line of the Snowdon Mountain Railway for the equally short ascent by a constructed pathway to Snowdon’s summit, adorned with a spanking new café.

The continuation to Y Lliwedd is not direct, but involves setting off as if heading for Rhyd Ddu, initially in a south-westerly direction down a rocky path, but only as far as a shapely finger of rock on the left that marks the top of the ascent via the Watkin Path (see Walk 3). A steep and loose descent leads to easier ground and a stony track to Bwlch y Saethau, the Pass of the Arrows; take great care on the upper section of this descent, especially if there are people ascending below you.

On Crib Goch

Bwlch y Saethau is said to be the battleground at which King Arthur was fatally wounded. Legend has it that Sir Bedivere carried his dying King to Llyn Llydaw, casting the sword Excalibur into Glaslyn on the way. After placing his king on a barge to be taken away by the ‘fair maids of the mountains’, Bedivere climbed to a cave high in the crags of Y Lliwedd, where he and the Llanciau Eryri (Arthur’s Men) lie sleeping even now, until their King should need them again.

Once the steep section is over you might consider climbing left, off the Watkin Path, and keeping as near as is comfortable to the drop into Cwm Dyli. This is much superior to plodding along the lower path, it goes to exactly the same place, and has fine views. The route passes the top of Cribau, a fine scrambly ridge descending to the outflow of Glaslyn below.

Press on to Bwlch y Ciliau, where the Watkin Path departs south-westerly into Cwm Llan, and here, from a large cairn, continue ahead (south-easterly), climbing again, to the twin summits of Y Lliwedd.

Arguments rage as to which of the two summits of Y Lliwedd is the higher, each appearing lower when viewed from the other. Modern surveying techniques settle the issue: Y Lliwedd West is 898 metres, Y Lliwedd East is 893 metres – although seeing may not be believing! The summits, either of them, have a tremendous feeling of height, being far enough away from Snowdon not to feel dominated by it, and give an excellent aerial view of the massive amphitheatre of Cwm Dyli.

From Y Lliwedd (East) it is a short descent to Y Lliwedd Bach, and then to a cairn at the top of the descent to Llyn Llydaw. Most walkers go this way, as it leads directly to the Miners’ Track close by Llyn Llydaw. Now all that remains is to turn right along the track, and follow it back to Pen y Pass.

Purists, however, may want to take in Gallt yr Wenallt, the last nail in the horseshoe. The way to it, from close by the cairn, is by a path across undulating ground, agreeably pleasant underfoot after so much hard ground. From the summit of Gallt yr Wenallt descend due north with care, initially taking Llyn Teyrn as a rough guide. Cross the Afon Glaslyn and a water pipeline, and then climb to join the Miners’ Track to complete the walk.

Y Lliwedd from Bwlch y Ciliau