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Discovering a new world of taste

Spices, ginger and other seasonings have been traded by Chinese, Indian and Arab merchants long before the Europeans began their own epic voyages of discovery at the end of the 15th century. The so-called Age of Discovery—when the Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch and British sailed across uncharted seas—led not only to the source of precious spices, and to treasure troves of gold and silver, but to the discovery of a host of previously unknown vegetables and fruits. Over the next few centuries, New World plants, such as tobacco, chilies, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, peanuts, corn and tomatoes, spread throughout the world, to Asia as well as to Europe, while some Asian plants (particularly tea) became very popular in many parts of the world.

We are in the midst of another era of discovery today. Thanks to a growing interest in Asian cuisines as a result of large-scale Asian migration and increasing international travel, dozens of previously unknown vegetables from around Asia are now readily available. They are planted in the West or imported for sale in farmers' markets, supermarkets, Asian stores and specialty shops everywhere from Seattle to Sydney, Berlin to Boston and London to Los Angeles.

Asian vegetables offer a new world of flavors and textures, as well as exciting possibilities in the kitchen. However, the challenge of identifying unfamiliar vegetables, then knowing how to select, store and prepare them deters many cooks from experimenting with the exotic-looking produce now available. This timely book introduces cooks to everything they might need to know about all the major vegetables—fresh, dried, salted, or processed—used in Asia.

Major Asian cultures, particularly Indian and Chinese, have a strong tradition of using a wide range of vegetables. Indeed, with the largest population of vegetarians worldwide, India has some of the most imaginative and delicious recipes for fresh vegetables, as well as for lentils and dried beans.

As a result of the Buddhist prohibition on killing animals, China and Japan have both had periods in their history where the eating of meat (although in the case of Japan, not chicken and fish) was banned, and when chefs and home cooks had to rely solely on vegetables to create imaginative meals. Many Chinese Buddhists today avoid meat on the 15th day of each lunar month, and meat is still not eaten in Buddhist monasteries—many of these (especially in China) have restaurants that serve excellent vegetarian food to the general public.

China first developed the art of making bean curd or tofu, a delicious meat substitute, from the dried soy bean, the plant with the richest protein content. Japan and Korea followed suit, and both countries now make a range of products from the soy bean. Tofu and other soy bean products are increasingly enjoyed by vegetarians and non-vegetarians around the world, and are described in detail in this book.

In many Asian countries, meat is expensive and is served mainly during festivals. Vegetables thus have a greater importance than they tend to in the West, where larger amounts of protein are eaten. Grain—generally rice—forms the staple food, accompanied by vegetables and fresh fish from the sea, rivers or lakes.

Home cooks in India, China and Japan, and to a lesser extent in Korea (where the climate limits the variety of vegetables cultivated), are skilled in preparing a variety of vegetable dishes, using them in soups and stews, stir-frying, braising, or making them into fritters, dumplings and pickles, or even using them in desserts. In the tropical countries of Southeast Asia, vegetables are frequently blanched or eaten raw in salads, often accompanied by spicy dips or dressings.

For at least 2,000 years, major Asian cultures have been aware of the medicinal and nutritional benefits of vegetables. Now, it seems, Western science is catching up. Countless scientific reports confirm the powerful properties of many plants, and we are urged to have at least three servings of vegetables every day.

Many plants have been proven to help strengthen the immune system, thus protecting against disease. Some seem to have anti-cancer properties, while others help lower cholesterol levels and ease the symptoms of ailments such as arthritis or rheumatism. The nutritional and medicinal properties, as well as some of the traditional folk beliefs surrounding certain vegetables, are briefly described in this book.

The fact that they are, quite simply, "good for you" would be reason enough to start experimenting with unfamiliar Asian vegetables, but there is another compelling reason for eating them: they taste good, even superb, when prepared properly. This book offers sample recipes from around Asia for most of the vegetables described, as well as suggestions for using them. A whole new world of eating awaits you.

Stretching across a vast area and encompassing a wide range of climates, Asia's cuisines are naturally very diverse. However, some cooking styles are widely used and many utensils and techniques are shared.

When preparing the Asian recipes in this book, be sure never to use olive oil, which is not used in Asian cuisines and will alter the flavor of the dish. Light, non-flavored oils such as canola, sunflower, safflower or corn oil, or light, blended vegetable oils are recommended.

One of the healthiest ways and perhaps the most popular way of cooking vegetables is stir-frying, using a curved wok over high heat so that the vegetables are cooked quickly with minimum loss of nutrition. A wok allows for quick tossing of ingredients, which fall back into the wok and not outside as they would if a frying pan were used. It is important to select a heavy wok so that the heat is evenly distributed, and to avoid non-stick or aluminum woks. The wok should be heated, then oil is poured in and swirled around to coat the sides before adding the vegetables, often after some garlic and ginger have been briefly stir-fried as a seasoning. The vegetables should be constantly stirred over very high heat using a specially shaped wok spatula. For vegetables that need longer cooking, water or stock is often added after the initial stir-frying and the wok covered to allow the vegetables to cook in steam.

Asian cooks often steam food, using either a multi-tiered bamboo steaming basket that sits inside a wok, or placing the food in a bowl or plate on a metal rack or perforated disk set into the wok above boiling water. It is important for the water to be fully boiling before the steamer is set into the wok, and that the water be topped up from time to time if the steaming is lengthy.

Simmering food in coconut milk is a popular cooking method in tropical Asia. Although coconut milk is usually made from freshly grated coconut, cans of coconut cream, which can be diluted as required to make thick or thin coconut milk, are recommended as a substitute.

A Note to Vegetarian Readers

In most parts of Asia, fish products (especially fish sauce, dried shrimp paste and prawns), as well as meat and poultry are frequently cooked with vegetables for additional flavor and nutrition. However, it is possible to adapt some of the authentic Asian recipes in this book by using substitutes for fish, meat or poultry. The final result may be somewhat different, but the overall flavor will still be perfectly acceptable.

Vegetable stock can replace chicken or beef stock.

Oyster-flavored vegetarian sauce can be used instead of genuine oyster sauce.

Instead of fish sauce, use soy sauce.

Fermented bean curd squares, available in jars, can be used instead of dried shrimp paste.

Twists of dried bean curd skin can often replace chicken or pork.

Meat or poultry can be replaced with flavored gluten (which is often available in cans), deep-fried bean curd—either the sweetened Japanese version, aburage, or the unsweetened Chinese variety, tau pok—or tempeh.