Читать книгу Cook's Guide to Asian Vegetables - Wendy Hutton - Страница 8
ОглавлениеBEANS, peas & pulses
All peas and beans are legumes, members of the botanical family, Leguminosae, and are among the most ancient foods enjoyed by man. The dried seeds of legumes are inexpensive and highly nutritious, containing both protein and oils. There is no scientific or culinary distinction between a pea and a bean, although many cooks consider a pea to be the fresh young seed of a legume, and a bean either as an edible green pod or the dried seed of a mature legume. Both are enjoyed fresh in their immature state, and the mature seeds or pulses—known variously as beans, dal, grams, lentils and peas—are dried and eaten in countless ways, as are the leaves and sprouts of some legumes.
Some dried peas and beans need preliminary cooking to reduce any oligosaccharides, which may cause indigestion. Put in a pan covered with three times their volume of water. Bring to the boil, turn off the heat, cover and stand 1 hour. Drain, rinse and add fresh water to cover by about 1 in (2 cm)—some cooks may recommend adding salt, but this toughens the pulses—and simmer until soft.
Azuki, sometimes spelled adzuki, is also known as the red bean. This bean is particularly popular in China, Japan and Korea. It has a nutty, rather sweet flavor that makes it popular in cakes and desserts. According to the Chinese, foods can be classified either as yin ("cooling")or yang ("warming") to the body. Azuki beans are considered to be more yang than other pulses, and are frequently eaten by those following a macrobiotic diet rich in yang foods.
Appearance & Flavor These small, dark red beans, about ¼ in (50 mm) in length, are roughly oblong. The flavor lends itself well to sweet rather than savory dishes. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Azuki beans contain as much as 25% protein. They are very low in oligosaccharides, and so are easily digested. In Japan, a type of soup made with azuki beans is believed to be good for helping kidney problems. Culinary Uses Azuki beans do not need soaking and preliminary cooking. They are very popular in cakes and desserts in northern Asia, where they are boiled and mashed with sugar to make a sweet filling for pancakes, Chinese mooncakes and many Japanese cakes. Azuki beans are simmered with water in China, Japan and Korea or with added coconut milk in parts of Southeast Asia to make a soupy snack or dessert. Boiled azuki beans are also added to various drinks and shaved ice concoctions (such as ais kacang in Malaysia and halo halo in the Philippines). Azuki beans are also cooked together with rice in Korea and Japan to make a savory and nutritious alternative to plain rice.
Black-eyed Beans are also called black-eyed peas, and are the mature, dried seeds of the long bean (an excellent vegetable when fresh, see page 17). Black-eyed beans are widely used in Asia, and are particularly popular among Punjabis in India and in parts of north Asia, including China. Black-eyed beans are also enjoyed in the southern states of the US, as well as in Mexico, where they are cooked in robust soups and hearty stews.
Appearance & Flavor These creamy colored beans are similar in shape to kidney beans, although somewhat smaller, and have a black patch at the side where they were attached inside the pod. They have a pleasant savory flavor and are very versatile in the kitchen. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Black-eyed beans contain 22% protein and are rich in phosphorus. They also have appreciable amounts of iron and thiamine. Culinary Uses Black-eyed beans have a considerably higher level of oligosaccharides than most pulses, so be sure to soak and pre-cook them, as directed on page 11. Black-eyed beans are very good in soups, added to slow-cooked vegetable combinations, or simmered in a stew with meat and vegetables. Dried black-eyed beans are ground to make flour used for pancakes in India, and are also split to make chowla dal.
Black Gram or Urad Dal is eaten mostly in India, particularly in the south where it is referred to as black gram or ulundoo. Black gram is available in two distinctly different forms. When sold whole, the black skin is left intact—hence the common name of this pulse. When skinned and split, however, the gram reveals a creamy white color, and is therefore sometimes known as "white lentil." Like its black counterpart, the husked white lentils are an essential ingredient in the cuisines of India as well as Sri Lanka.
Appearance & Flavor The appearance of the whole black gram—a small, oblong-shaped lentil with a shiny, black skin—is totally different to the skinned, creamy white split lentil. Black gram has a relatively pronounced flavor, and is therefore used as a seasoning in its skinned, split form, as well as eaten as a savory dish when used whole. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Black gram is a good source of calories and is particularly high in phosphorus and calcium. Culinary Uses Whole, unskinned black gram is cooked in vegetable dishes and vegetarian curries. It does not require soaking and pre-cooking. The skinned black gram (white lentil) is often stir-fried with brown mustard seeds, dried chili and curry leaves to make a seasoning which is added during the final stages of cooking lentil stews, fish curries and soupy dishes in southern India. White lentils are also soaked for several hours and allowed to ferment slightly, ground to a paste and mixed with soaked ground rice to make a batter. This is used in steamed breads (idli), deep-fried savories (vadai) and savory pancakes (dosai and appalam) in southern India. Flour made from white lentils is also used in making poppadum or papad, a wafer-thin savory which puffs up to a crisp circle after brief deep-frying, and is often eaten as a snack with curries and rice.
Broad Beans originated in Europe and the Middle East and have been eaten in China for several thousand years. The fresh young beans are enjoyed as a vegetable in cold areas of Asia, while elsewhere, dried broad beans are popular boiled, roasted or deep-fried and mixed with salt as a savory snack food.
Appearance & Flavor Broad beans are one of the largest pulses, measuring about 1 in (2½ cm) in length. When dried, they are reddish brown in color; the flavor is somewhat earthy and is improved when the beans are cooked with seasonings such as soy sauce. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Broad beans are high in protein, iron and fiber and are a good source of vitamins A and C. They contain a high concentration of dopamine, a neuro-transmitter in the brain. Broad beans should not be eaten by anyone taking drugs containing monoamine inhibitors, which are found in some anti-depressants. Culinary Uses The dried beans should be soaked and pre-boiled as described on page 11. They can then be simmered in water to cover, with soy sauce and a little sugar and sesame oil and then served with rice and other dishes. Pre-boiled dried broad beans can also be left to dry thoroughly before being deep-fried in very hot oil. Sprinkle with salt and, if liked, a little ground red pepper before serving as a snack.
Channa Dal is often known as Bengal gram, and is a variety of the common chickpea, reputed to make up more than half the production of pulses in India. Channa dal, like chickpeas, is used in savory stews and curries, although a large portion of the crop is dried and ground to make a widely used flour, besan, known as chickpea flour in English.
Appearance & Flavor When whole, channa dal is yellowish brown in color and somewhat wrinkled. Besan, or channa dal flour, is yellowish cream in color. Channa dal is most commonly sold split, and resembles yellowish beige lentils, with its somewhat oval shape. The flavor is nutty and pleasant. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Channa dal is, like all other pulses, nutritious. It contains fiber and carbohydrates as well as protein, minerals and vitamins. It also contains lecithin and linoleic acid and is easily digested. Culinary Uses If using whole channa dal, soak and pre-cook as directed on page 11. It can be cooked in any vegetarian stew or curry, either alone or with fresh vegetables. Channa dal, should be soaked in water for about 30 minutes, then drained before being cooked in a lentil stew or simmered with vegetables. Channa dal is used as a seasoning in some regions of India, stir-fried with oil or ghee and added to various dishes such as simmered pumpkin. Besan is used to make batters, as a thickening or binding agent in many dishes and also used in some Indian sweetmeats. In Burma and parts of northern Thailand, this flour is used lightly toasted and sprinkled on some soup and noodle dishes.
Chickpeas originated in the Middle East, where they have been cultivated for several thousand years. Most of the chickpea crop is dried before use. The Arabian armies which conquered northern Africa and southern Spain were reputedly fed on this nourishing pulse. Chickpeas have spread as far as the Americas (particularly South America) across to India and, in recent times, are even grown in Australia. They are also known as garbanzos.
Appearance & Flavor Chickpeas are hard and wrinkled, beige-brown in color, and are pointed at one end. Their nutty flavor is particularly appreciated in India and in other countries with a sizeable Indian population. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Similar to channa dal Culinary Uses Chickpeas are renowned for taking a long time to cook, so they should be soaked and pre-cooked as directed on page 11. After pre-cooking, the colorless, almost jelly-like skins covering the chickpeas will have been loosened. Skim the skins off the surface while they are still in the cooking liquid, then detach and discard the rest of the skins. This is not essential, but many cooks prefer the appearance of the finished dish without these skins. Although purees of chickpeas are popular in the Middle East, Indian cooks generally leave the chickpeas whole, usually cooking them with spices and other seasonings to make a type of stew. They are also cooked with vegetables such as tomatoes and carrots, or with leafy greens such as spinach.
Green Beans are probably the most widely eaten fresh bean in the world. Also known as haricot beans, French beans or, in the US, as string beans, they are native to Mexico and Guatemala. Green beans are now eaten throughout Asia, although in some countries they are less popular than long beans. If left to mature, the almost negligible seeds inside the young green pods will swell to form legumes. When these are dried, they turn red and are known as kidney beans (see page 17).
Appearance & Flavor There are many varieties of green bean, ranging from light to dark green in color, to pale yellow. Some fresh beans have wide, flat pods, while others may be rounded. Green beans are highly versatile, with a pleasant texture that makes them almost universally appealing. Choosing & Storing When buying the beans, look for those which snap rather than bend. Avoid those where the seeds are starting to swell, as the beans will be too mature. Keep refrigerated in a plastic bag for 3-4 days. Preparing Most varieties lack strings, although if they are present, they should be pulled away and the stem end cut off before cooking. The beans are usually sliced diagonally into 1-in (2½-cm) lengths, although some recipes may call for them to be finely chopped. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Fresh green beans contain appreciable levels of calcium and phosphorus and are high in beta-carotene. Culinary Uses Green beans are eaten stir-fried, simmered, added to soups and used in salads. Very young beans are often eaten raw, accompanied with a dip in Thailand, or blanched before they are added to salads in Indonesia. To ensure the beans keep their texture and bright color, be sure not to overcook them; cook them briefly in boiling water, drain, then cool the beans in iced water before draining again.
Drumsticks or Horseradish Tree Pods is the common English name for the fruit of Moringa oleifera. The name derives from the fact that the pungent roots of this tree were used as a substitute for true horseradish by the British in India (the Thais, however, use the root to obtain an orange dye). The young seed pods—commonly referred to as as "drumsticks"—are a very popular vegetable in India and other parts of Asia with large Indian communities'. In Southeast Asia, the young, fern-like green leaves are also eaten, and are particularly popular in the Philippines, where they are known as malunggay. The leaves are frequently plucked from horseradish trees growing in village gardens and are added to vegetable stews and soups.
Appearance & Flavor The young seed pods are long (at least 12 in/30 cm), pale green and thin, with small bumps revealing the seeds inside. The taste is pleasantly mild, with a touch of sweetness. The leaves of the horseradish tree are tiny and delicate, growing in feathery clusters somewhat like acacia leaves. Choosing & Storing If buying fresh drumsticks or seed pods, look for those which are narrow. Avoid buying those that contain well-developed seeds. They can be kept refrigerated for 2-3 days. The leaves are generally sold still on the stems. Wrap in kitchen paper and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Preparing Wash the drumsticks, cut into pieces and simmer until soft. Only the soft interior is eaten, and the fibrous skin of the pods is discarded at the table. The leaves should be rinsed thoroughly and drained before cooking. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Drumsticks contain rather high levels of vitamin C as well as calcium, phosphorus and riboflavin. The leaves, which are very rich in vitamins A and C, stimulate digestion and are a diuretic. They are also traditionally used as a poultice for dog bites in India. Culinary Uses Although both the seed pods and leaves are edible, the various uses of the horseradish tree proves that what people eat is often determined by culture rather than the edibility of the actual plant. For example, in India, only the seed pods or drumsticks are eaten, usually in vegetable or lentil stews. In parts of Southeast Asia, only the leaves are consumed in soups or vegetable stews, or dried and deep-fried for a nutritious snack or crispy garnish.
Kidney Beans are the mature seeds of the common green bean (see page 15). In India, where several types of kidney beans are grown, they are known as rajmah. Usually available dried, the beans are dark red in color when fully matured. Fresh kidney beans are sold already shelled in India and in Indonesia.
Appearance & Flavor The most common kidney bean is dark red in color, about 1/3 in (1 cm) in length and distinctly kidney-shaped. Some varieties are smaller and variegated pink and cream. The dark red kidney bean has a good flavor and can be used in either savory or sweet dishes. Choosing & Storing Look for beans which are firm and dry, without any trace of slime. Wrap in a paper towel and keep refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 1 week. Preparing Wash and drain. Fresh kidney beans do not need soaking. Culinary Uses The fresh beans can be prepared in the same way as dried kidney beans, but the cooking time is greatly reduced and the flavor more delicious. They are frequently added to vegetable soups, or cooked in spicy sauces which often use tomato as a main ingredient. Boiled fresh or dried kidney beans are also an excellent ingredient in salads, mixed with other vegetables such as corn and celery.
Long Beans or Snake Beans are known by a greater variety of names than any other legume—cow pea, asparagus bean, yard-long bean (somewhat of an exaggeration) and China pea are among the names for this pleasant-tasting long green bean.
Appearance & Flavor Most commonly found as a plump, pale green bean; other varieties include thinner, darker green pods, as well as very thin, long beans with a purplish black tinge and a tendency to twist. All varieties are flavorful and versatile. The fatter type softens when cooked, but compensates with a sweet flavor. Other varieties remain firm, with a more distinct taste. Choosing & Storing The beans should be crisp. Avoid those with developed seeds as they will be old and dry. The thinner and younger the beans, the better the flavor. Keep refrigerated in a plastic bag for 3-4 days. Preparing Remove the stem end and tip, then cut into bite-sized lengths before cooking. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Long beans are rich in beta-carotene, vitamin C and phosphorus, and are used in traditional Chinese tonics for the kidneys and stomach. Culinary Uses Long beans are added to soups, salads and stir-fried dishes. Sections of very young beans are sometimes eaten raw with a dip in Southeast Asia. Dark varieties are preferred for salads, as they keep their color after blanching.
Mung Beans are one of the most widely used beans in Asia. Although perhaps best known for their crisp, succulent sprouts, dried mung beans are also used both whole as well as split. Surprisingly, there are up to 2,000 varieties of mung beans, including the common green mung bean and the yellow and black mung beans.
Appearance & Flavor Mung beans are very small, hard and oblong, with the most common variety having a dark olive green color. The flavor is not particularly interesting, but their nutritional value and versatility more than make up for this. In India, split mung beans (known as moong dal) are available with their skins intact, as well as hulled—which makes them look like very small, yellowish orange lentils. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Dried mung beans contain approximately 23% protein, and are particularly rich in carbohydrates, calcium and thiamine. They have the benefit of being low in oliosaccharides and are thus easily digested. In India, cooked mung beans are often given to invalids, while in China they are considered a highly suitable food for young children and the very elderly. Culinary Uses Mung beans cook fairly fast, so they do not need soaking and pre-boiling. Whole mung beans are simmered in savory stews, and are also made into a sort of sweet porridge with sugar, often with coconut milk added. Split mung beans are cooked in many savory dishes in India, usually with spices and sometimes with other added vegetables. In China, cooked green mung beans are often simmered and ground to make a sweet paste used as a filling for buns, pancakes and mooncakes, while in Korea, soaked and ground yellow mung beans are cooked with glutinous rice and sugar to make a popular cake. Mung beans are toasted and then ground to make a flour that is used in cakes and sweetmeats in several Southeast Asian countries. In addition, mung bean starch (known as tepong hoen kwe in Indonesia and Malaysia) is used to thicken coconut milk for cakes, or made into a type of noodle known as bean thread or cellophane noodles—or perhaps more colloquially, as tung boon or glass noodles—in Malaysia and Singapore. These noodles have an intriguing jelly-like texture and are used in soups, salads and fillings in many Asian countries.
Mung Bean Sprouts are an important vegetable in much of Asia. They are grown by soaking the beans, then keeping them moist in a dark place for several days until the sprouts or shoots have emerged. There are two major types of bean sprouts, with the one most common in Asia grown from the small, oblong green mung bean, while the other is grown from soy beans.
Appearance & Flavor Mung bean sprouts have small, creamy seed heads, sometimes found with the split greenish black skin clinging to them, with slender, crisp, white shoots usually finishing in a somewhat straggly tail. They are sometimes available with the seed heads and tails removed, and in this form are generally known as silver sprouts. Although they may be more aesthetic in appearance, silver sprouts are actually less nutritious than the whole sprout with the seed head intact. Fresh mung bean sprouts have a delicate flavor and, when raw or only lightly blanched, a crisp texture. Choosing & Storing Fresh mung bean sprouts are often stored in tubs of water in Asian markets, and lifted out when required, or they may be piled in a heap on a tray. In supermarkets, mung bean sprouts are usually packed in plastic bags and kept refrigerated. The sprouts should look crisp and bright white. Avoid any which appear limp, or which have small green leaves starting to sprout from the seed head. Refrigerate the sprouts for 4-5 days in a bowl with water to cover, changing the water daily. Preparing Put the sprouts in a large bowl of water and move them gently with the hand to dislodge any greenish black hulls, lift these out and discard before use and, if liked, pinch off the thin root ends. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Bean sprouts are more nutritious than the dried beans from which they are sprouted, full of vitamins and natural sugars. Culinary Uses The crisp texture and mild flavor of mung bean sprouts is best appreciated when they are eaten raw, which is the way they are commonly served in Southeast Asia. The Chinese, however, do not like to eat raw vegetables (a precaution which lingers from the days when human waste was used as a fertilizer), so they generally blanch or stir-fry them. To blanch mung bean sprouts, put them into a colander, pour a stream of boiling water over them for about 10 seconds, then immediately plunge the sprouts into iced water to cool. Drain the sprouts well before using. Raw or blanched bean sprouts are excellent in salads and soups, and are an essential ingredient in most Vietnamese and Thai noodle soups. Care is needed when cooking mung bean sprouts as they cook very quickly. If left too long, they become limp and watery. Perhaps the best way to cook the sprouts is to wash, then drain them well, and stir-fry over maximum heat in a small amount of very hot oil for 30 seconds only.
Pea Shoots or Dou Miao are a good example of Asian thrift with none of the edible portions of the plant wasted. Pea shoots are the immature tips or shoots of the snow pea and sugar pea, and are plucked as the crop of peas keeps growing and maturing Often sold under their Chinese name, dou miao, pea shoots are enjoyed as a leafy green vegetable, and fetch an even higher price than the actual peas.
Appearance & Flavor Pea shoots are often available in two sizes. The very tiny, immature shoots are picked when the leaves are about 1/3 in (1 cm) in diameter, and the stems are so slender that they are almost hair-like. The more mature shoots, which have larger stems and more pointed leaves about 1½-2 in (4-5 cm) in length, are more commonly available. Both types of pea shoots are very delicately flavored. Choosing & Storing Look for pea shoots which appear fresh. Avoid any that have a yellowish tint on the leaves and show signs of wilting. The smaller variety are frequently sold in a perforated plastic bag and can be stored refrigerated in this for 2-3 days. Larger sprouts can be kept refrigerated in damp paper for up to 3 days. Preparing The shoots should be washed thoroughly and well drained before using. The thicker part of the stems should be discarded from the more mature pea shoots. Culinary Uses The smaller variety of pea shoots are good raw in salads, although they are seldom used in this way in Asia. They can also be eaten raw as a garnish, or added at the last minute to soups. The more common larger pea shoots are always cooked, with the most popular method being a quick stir-fry, with a touch of oyster sauce often added just before serving, or with minced garlic and soy sauce.
Pigeon Peas or Toor Dal are grown for their small seeds which are dried, husked and split to make one of India's most flavorful lentils, known as toovar, arhar or paripoo dal, depending on the region. More popular in India than anywhere else in the world, the pigeon pea is thought to be native to either Africa or India. The color of pigeon peas varies. They are sometimes known in English as red gram, however, they are most often yellow rather than red. They should not be confused with red lentils or masoor dal, which are slightly smaller and have a definite salmon pink color.
Appearance & Flavor Pigeon peas range in color from white through yellow to brown and even black, although those dried and split for use as lentils or dal have a yellowish ochre shade. With their excellent flavor, pigeon peas are arguably the tastiest of all lentils. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties With 20% protein and high levels of calcium, phosphorus and beta-carotene, pigeon peas are very nutritious. They are also easily digested. Culinary Uses Split pigeon peas do not need soaking or pre-cooking, though some Indian cooks like to soak them in tepid water for 10-15 minutes before using. They are particularly popular in southern India, where they are generally simmered with spices and water or coconut milk to make a moist lentil stew or soup. The lentils are also cooked with mixed vegetables to make the southern Indian dish known as sambar, usually spooned over rice or eaten as a dip with savory pancakes made from ground rice and black gram (dosai).
Red Lentils are known in India as masoor dal, and are a type of skinned split pea. In Europe, this attractive red lentil is generally associated with Egyptian and North African cuisine, which is not surprising since the plant on which it grows originated in the Middle East, and is widely used there for soups and stews. Red lentils are now widespread in India, and are popular not only for their excellent flavor but because of their digestibility and the short time required for cooking.
Appearance & Flavor This lentil is easily recognized by its beautiful salmon pink color which, rather sadly, changes to yellow after cooking. The flavor is excellent. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Like all other lentils, the red lentil is nutritious, containing around 20% protein as well as carbohydrates and calcium, and is particularly rich in phosphorus and thiamine. Red lentils are also easily digested. Culinary Uses This is one of the quickest cooking lentils, so it does not need any soaking at all. Red lentils are widely used in soups and stews, sometimes with added vegetables. Red lentils are also cooked with rice to make the dish known as kitchri. This became popular with the colonial British and was taken back to Victorian India, where a modified version (usually with the addition of smoked fish) became known as kedgeree.
Red-streaked Beans or Borlotti Beans belong to the same family as the kidney bean. Similar to pinto beans, red-streaked beans are available fresh in the summer months in Europe when they first mature. Fully matured beans are sold dried. In many parts of Asia, fresh red-streaked beans are increasingly available in supermarkets and markets although the dried variety is not used in local cooking.
Appearance & Flavor The beautiful pinkish purple-and-cream pods of this bean contain ivory-colored beans streaked with the same red color. Disappointingly however, these red streaks disappear soon after cooking. Red-streaked beans have a mild flavor and, when fresh and young, a pleasant, slightly waxy texture. Choosing & Storing Avoid any pods which may be starting to get a brown tinge; it is preferable to buy beans still in their pods rather than those which have been shelled, as the latter will not keep as long. To store the beans, refrigerate in a paper-lined plastic box or perforated plastic bag for 3-4 days, and peel just before using. If the beans are purchased peeled, they are best used within 24 hours. Culinary Uses In Asia, these beans are usually added to soups. They can also be simmered in lightly salted water and eaten as a salad vegetable, or added to other vegetables and meat to make a stewed or braised dish.
Sesbania is a small tree native to northeastern Asia, and is commonly found in many gardens throughout Asia. It has attractive, almost lacy foliage and large, creamy white or yellow flowers, and is grown as much for its decorative qualities as for culinary purposes. The name, sesbania, is derived from its botanical name Sesbania grandiflora or Sesbania javanica, and the plant is sometimes known as the West Indian pea tree. Producing edible leaves, pods and flowers, it is indeed a versatile plant. In Cambodia, the important Water Festival usually takes place when the sesbania flowers are blooming. According to one historian/'as people take to the water in their boats, ahead of them goes a boat in which there is a bowl of batter and a pan of hot oil. The flowers, dipped in the batter and cooked, are left on the trees so that they may be collected by those following behind."
Appearance & Flavor The curved, white or yellow flowers look like crescent moons, and are particularly prized. They taste somewhat like sweetish mushrooms. The pods are about 12 in (30 cm) in length, and very narrow, and should be eaten only when very young. The small, feathery leaves grow on either side of longish stems. Choosing & Storing Clusters of young leaves are sometimes sold in Asian markets. The pods are rarely available commercially. They must be very young to be edible and are normally gathered from kitchen gardens. The flowers, however, may sometimes be found in markets. Preparing If using the leaves, strip them from the stalks. The stamens should be pulled out of the flowers and discarded. Pods are used whole. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Sesbania flowers are a good source of phosphorus, sugar and iron. Culinary Uses The leaves of the plant are usually added to soups and simmered briefly. The pods and leaves can be boiled or simmered in vegetable stews or curries. The flowers are eaten raw or blanched, often with a dip, and can also be dipped in Japanese tempura or Indian pakhora batter and deep-fried.
Snow Peas are a member of the same family as the sugar pea and are sometimes known by their French name, mange four, which means "eat all." As the name implies, both the pod and immature seeds are eaten. Snow peas are grown in the cooler climate of northern Asia as well as in highland areas in the tropics. They are easier to prepare than regular green peas (they need stringing but not shelling), and have what many deem to be a better flavor.
Appearance & Flavor Snow peas look like flattened common green pea pods, with the immature seed so small that its shape is barely visible. The pods vary in size, with those found in Asia often half the size of those grown in Western countries. They have a firm texture and delicious flavor, although they are slightly less sweet than sugar peas. Choosing & Storing Look for firm, tender pods. If there are any with portions of the flower at the tips, choose these as they will be very young. Keep refrigerated in a perforated plastic bag for up to 1 week. Preparing Remove the strings by pulling from the tip of each pea and discard the stem end also. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Similar to sugar peas. Culinary Uses Snow peas can be used as an alternative to sugar peas.
Soy Beans have been appreciated by the Chinese and Japanese for centuries and are becoming increasingly known in the West where they are no longer used merely as animal feed but are promoted for human consumption as an important source of phyto-estrogens (which help balance hormonal changes) and protein. Although most soy products are made from the dried mature seed, fresh emerald-green soy bean pods are enjoyed in China, Japan (where they are known as edamame) and Korea between mid-June and October. They are often eaten boiled and lightly salted as a cocktail snack, together with sake or beer. Frozen pods are often available in Japanese and Korean stores as well as in supermarkets.
Appearance & Flavor Small, fresh green fuzzy pods, usually containing three seeds, are sometimes available in bundles. Their flavor is excellent and totally unlike the cooked dried soy beans or any other soy bean products. Frozen green soy bean pods can often be found in Asian stores, and although not quite as good as the fresh bean, are well worth buying. Soy beans have a taste somewhat similar to fresh young lima beans. Choosing & Storing Fresh pods can keep refrigerated in a plastic bag for 2-3 days. Frozen pods can be stored for up to 3 months. Preparing If using fresh pods, rinse well before cooking. Frozen pods should not be thawed first if the recipe calls for them to be cooked whole. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Fresh soy beans contain over 12% protein and are easily digested. They are also a good source of vitamins B and C. Culinary Uses Fresh green soy beans are commonly boiled whole as a snack, or stir-fried and simmered. If using whole pods (either fresh or frozen), they should be added to boiling water and simmered for about 15 minutes, or until they are tender. Sprinkle with salt and serve warm or at room temperature. The seeds are sucked out and the pods discarded. The beans can also be deep-fried in tempura batter.
Soy Bean Sprouts are less common outside Asia compared to mung bean sprouts. They are very nutritious and flavorsome, and are particularly popular in Korea and among the Chinese. Unlike mung bean sprouts, they must be cooked before being eaten, but they retain an appealingly firm texture even after cooking.
Appearance & Flavor Soy beans sprouts are easily distinguished from mung bean sprouts by the large, pale yellow soy bean seed clearly visible at the top, and the thick shoots with long straggly roots. They have an excellent, almost nutty flavor, and the advantage of remaining firm after cooking. Choosing & Storing Soy bean sprouts are normally sold in a bundle. The sprouts should look crisp and white, with the seed heads still attached. Avoid those with any sign of green leaves sprouting at the seed end. Keep refrigerated in a bowl covered with water for 3-4 days, changing the water daily. The pale skins will normally sink. Preparing Keeping the sprouts tied together, cut off the straggly tails with one stroke of the knife just before cooking. Then untie, rinse and drain. Be sure not to remove the yellowish soy bean at the top of the sprout as it is the tastiest and most nutritious part. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Soy bean sprouts contain high levels of protein, oil and vitamin C, and are a good meat substitute. Soy beans also have less calories per gram than any other vegetable food. Culinary Uses Soy bean sprouts must be cooked to remove traces of a mild toxin. They are often braised and served either hot or at room temperature, and can also be added to soups, noodle dishes, mixed salads, pickles and stir-fried vegetables, meat or poultry.
Sugar Peas are one of Asia's favorite green peas, with all of the flavor and sweetness of the common Western green pea packed inside a tender, edible skin. Although sugar peas—also known as sugar peas—look like mature snow peas with large seeds, they are actually a different cultivar.
Appearance & Flavor Sugar peas have a mild, slightly sweet taste, and look like young, common green peas. The skin remains tender after cooking. Choosing & Storing Look for firm, bright green pods. Keep refrigerated in a perforated plastic bag for up to a week. Preparing The entire pod is edible. Most sugar peas need stringing although stringless varieties may be available in some countries—test by grasping the stem end down toward the tip. The strings can be pulled off easily. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Sugar peas are high in beta-carotene and phosphorus as well as vitamin C. Culinary Uses Whole sugar peas are most commonly stir-fried until just cooked, thus retaining their bright green color and firm texture. They are cooked alone, often with a little oyster sauce added just before they are removed from the wok, or are stir-fried with other vegetables, meat, poultry or prawns. Their attractive color makes them a decorative element in many Chinese and Japanese dishes. Sugar peas can also be blanched in boiling water, refreshed in iced water, then used as a garnish or added to salads.
Twisted Cluster Beans or Petai are also known as parkia beans (derived from the botanical name, Parkia speciosa). These pungent, slightly bitter beans are called petai in Malaysia, pete in Indonesia and sa taw in Thailand. The twisted pods are found on massive trees growing wild in the tropical forests, and because of their popularity, are also cultivated. Twisted cluster beans are perhaps an acquired taste, but afficionados who are unable to find the fresh beans outside tropical Asia will even resort to using the canned alternative just so they can indulge in their unique flavor.
Appearance & Flavor The pale green pods, containing around ten to 18 large green seeds, grow in twisted clusters, hence their English name. They are also somewhat impolitely referred to as stink beans, as they share with asparagus the quality of giving a very strong smell to the urine shortly after they have been consumed. Despite this, many people find the curious, pungent flavor of twisted cluster beans particularly appealing. Choosing & Storing Some markets sell twisted cluster beans already removed from their seed pods. However, as the beans ferment fairly quickly, check that they still smell fresh before buying shelled cluster beans. If buying whole pods, make sure they are brightly colored and firm. The beans—frequently labeled peteh—can been found in cans in Asian specialty stores. Preparing Pull off the tough strings at either side of the pod and press out the beans, then peel off the skin covering each bean. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties These beans are a diuretic and have a relaxing effect. Culinary Uses Twisted cluster beans are usually stir-fried with emphatic seasonings, including chilies, to make savory side dishes or sambal. As the flavor is.quite strong, twisted cluster beans are normally eaten in small quantities.
Winged Beans are also known as angled or Goa beans, and they have traditionally been cultivated in warm climates everywhere from India right across to New Guinea. Not surprisingly perhaps, the winged bean has been hailed as "the Asian miracle plant": it grows quickly, is disease-resistant and rich in protein and oils. It is now being cultivated in many parts of rural Africa. Although it is the young pod that is most commonly eaten, the shoots, leaves and flowers are also edible, and the pretty pale blue flowers are used as a natural food coloring for some rice and cake recipes.
Appearance & Flavor Winged beans are what might almost be called a "designer vegetable" because of their attractive appearance. The pods are pale green and have a frill running down all four sides. The flavor carries a slight touch of bitterness and the beans have a pleasant, crisp texture when young. Choosing & Storing Look for small, young beans which snap rather than bend. Young beans—those not longer than 4 in (10 cm) in length and about ½ in (1¼ cm) in width—are sweeter and have a better texture than the more mature beans, recognizable by their greater size and the shape of the seeds clearly formed within. Winged beans can keep refrigerated in a container for 3 to 4 days. Preparing Before cooking, pinch the tip and pull down any strings which may have formed. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Young winged beans contain complex carbohydrates and as much as 20% protein. They are rich in beta-carotene, low in sodium and contain calcium and phosphorus. Culinary Uses Winged beans are either eaten raw, usually with a dip, or blanched briefly in boiling water, then sliced to make salads. Combining them with naturally sweet coconut cream (as is often done in Southeast Asia) helps offset the slight bitterness. Winged beans can also be stir-fried, but should not be overcooked or they will lose their crisp texture.
Bean Sprout and Green Bean Salad
10 oz (300 g) green beans, cut into 1½-in (4-cm) lengths
7 oz (200 g) mung beans sprouts, straggly tails discarded
1 red chili, minced, or 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
1 small clove garlic
½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste, toasted
1 cup (100 g) freshly grated or frozen coconut
½ teaspoon salt
1 Blanch the beans in boiling water until just cooked but still firm. Cool under running water, then drain.
2 Put bean sprouts in a sieve and pour over boiling water for 10 seconds. Plunge into ice water to cool, then drain thoroughly. Put beans and bean sprouts in a bowl.
3 Using a food processor, or a pestle and mortar, grind the chili, garlic and shrimp paste. Toss with the grated coconut and salt, mixing well. Just before serving, add the coconut mixture to the vegetables, toss well and serve at room temperature.
Korean Blanched Soy Bean Sprouts with Sesame
7-8 oz (200-250 g) soy bean sprouts
½ cup (125 ml) water
1½ tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, coarsely crushed while warm
1 tablespoon finely chopped spring onions
1 Keeping the sprouts still in a bundle (if they have been bought this way), cut off the straggly roots. Untie the sprouts and spread in a saucepan. Add the water, and the two types of oil, salt, garlic and soy sauce. Bring to a boil, cover, lower heat and simmer for 7 minutes.
2 Remove the pan from the heat, turn the sprouts carefully, cover the pan and let it stand for 5 minutes before transferring to a serving dish. Serve hot, or chilled, garnishing with the sesame seeds and spring onion just before serving.
Sweet Mung Beans with Coconut
1½ cups (300 g) dried mung beans, washed and drained
2½ cups (625 ml) water
Thin slice ginger
Pinch of salt
2 cups (500 ml) thin coconut milk
¼ cup (40 g) shaved palm sugar or soft brown sugar
White sugar, to taste
½ cup (125 ml) coconut cream
1 Put the mung beans in a large pan with the water, ginger and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer for 45 minutes until the liquid has been absorbed and the beans are swollen. Add the coconut milk and palm sugar, stirring over low heat until the sugar has dissolved.
2 Without covering the pan, cook the beans over low heat for about an hour, until they are very soft. Add a little water if the mixture seems too dry. Add white sugar to taste. Ladle into small bowls, and spoon some coconut cream over the porridge before serving.
Stir-fried Sugar Peas and Pumpkin
2 tablespoons oil
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
3 cups (500 g) butternut squash or other bright yellow pumpkin, peeled and cut into matchsticks
7 oz (200 g) sugar or snow peas, tips and strings removed (if using large snow peas, cut them diagonally into halves)
2 spring onions, cut in 1½-in (4-cm) lengths
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 Heat the oil in a wok. Stir-fry the garlic for a few seconds. Add the fish sauce and sugar, stir, then add the pumpkin and stir-fry over medium-high heat for 2 minutes.
2 Stir-fry the peas for 2 minutes, then stir-fry the spring onions for another 30 seconds. Sprinkle with pepper and transfer to a serving dish.
Spiced Indian Kidney Beans
1 lb (500 g) fresh kidney beans, shelled, 1 can (14 oz/400 g) red kidney beans or 8 oz (250 g) dried kidney beans
¼ cup (60 ml) oil
2 cardamom pods, split and bruised, or ¼ teaspoon cardamom powder
1 onion, minced
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1 teaspoon minced red chili, or ½ teaspoon ground red pepper
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 ripe tomatoes (about 8 oz/250 g), blanched, peeled and diced
1 large green chili, halved lengthwise, optional
2 tablespoons minced coriander leaves (cilantro)
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup (125 ml) water
¼ teaspoon garam masala
1 Simmer fresh kidney beans in water to cover until tender, then drain. If using canned kidney beans, drain in a colander and then hold under running water to rinse the beans. Set aside to drain.
2 Heat the oil in a medium-sized saucepan until moderately hot. Add the cardamom and onion and stir-fry until soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and chili and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Reduce heat, then add the ground coriander, cumin and turmeric and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
3 Add tomatoes and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Put in the green chili, 1 tablespoon of the coriander leaves, salt and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes. Add drained kidney beans and a pinch of the garam masala. Simmer 8 minutes, then transfer to a serving dish. Sprinkle with the remaining coriander leaves and garam masala. Serve hot.
Indian Vegetable Fritters (Pakhora)
Oil for deep-frying
1 medium potato or sweet potato, sliced
1 slender Asian eggplant, thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced, separated into rings
4 very small okra, left whole
½ cup (100 g) cauliflower or broccoli florets
8 spinach leaves, washed, dried and torn in half if large
Batter
1½ cups (250 g) chickpea flour (besan)
½ cup (60 g) plain flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½-1 teaspoon ground red pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 large green chili, finely chopped
Warm water to mix
1 To make the Batter, mix all the dry ingredients, then add egg, lemon juice, chili and enough warm water to make a thick paste.
2 Heat the oil in a wok and when moderately hot, dip the vegetables, one by one, into the Batter to coat. Transfer with tongs to the hot oil and deep-fry, a few pieces at a time for 3-4 minutes until the vegetable pieces are cooked and the Batter turns golden brown. Drain on a paper towel and serve hot or warm.
Indonesian Vegetable Tamarind Soup
¼ cup (40 g) raw peanuts, boiled for 10 minutes
½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste, toasted until dry and crumbly
6 shallots, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
1 large red chili, deseeded and sliced
4 thin slices galangal root
2 fresh or dried salam leaves
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or beef stock
1 cup (250 ml) water
3 cups (200 g) sliced cabbage
1 chayote, peeled, diced
4 oz (100 g) green beans, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 heaped tablespoon tamarind pulp soaked in ¼ cup (60 ml) water for 5 minutes, squeezed and strained to obtain juice
1 teaspoon palm sugar or soft brown sugar
1 Put the peanuts, shrimp paste, shallots, garlic, chili, galangal, salam leaves, stock and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the vegetables and salt. Bring back to a boil, cover, and simmer for 10-15 minutes, until the vegetables are cooked.
2 Add the tamarind juice and sugar, stirring to dissolve. Taste and add more sugar if desired. Transfer to four soup bowls and serve with steamed rice.
Indian Chickpeas in Spicy Tomato Sauce
1 cup (200 g) chickpeas
4 cups (1 liter) water
1 Indian or Ceylon teabag (optional)
¼ cup ghee or butter
1 onion, minced
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced ginger
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼-½ teaspoon ground red pepper
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 medium tomatoes, diced
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon minced coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish
1 Put the chickpeas in a saucepan and cover with three times their volume of water. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat, cover the pan, and leave overnight. Drain the chickpeas and discard the water. Transfer the drained pulses back to the pan with 4 cups of water and the teabag. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer until the chickpeas are soft—this will take about 1 hour depending on the size and age of the pulses. Drain the chickpeas, reserving the liquid.
2 Melt the ghee in a medium-sized saucepan and add the onion. Stir-fry over low heat for about 2 minutes, or until the onion has softened. Add the garlic and ginger. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the ground coriander, cumin, pepper and turmeric. Stir-fry for another minute. Add tomatoes and salt to the saucepan. Cook the sauce for 4-5 minutes over moderate heat, stirring from time to time, until the tomatoes soften.
3 Pour in 2/3 cup of the reserved cooking liquid to the saucepan and the drained chickpeas. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the liquid has been absorbed. Transfer the chickpeas to a serving dish and garnish with the chopped coriander leaves.
Sweet Chinese Azuki Bean Pancakes
1 cup (125 g) flour
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup (250 ml) water
Pinch of salt
¼ cup (60 ml) oil
Filling
½ cup (100 g) azuki beans
¼ cup (65 g) sugar
2 teaspoons oil
¼ cup (30 g) chopped walnuts (optional)
1 To make the Filling, put the beans in a medium-sized saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil, cover, turn off the heat and stand for 1 hour.
2 Drain the beans and return to the pan with fresh water to cover. Cover with the lid and simmer until soft, or for about 30-60 minutes.
3 Drain the beans, then put them in a food processor with sugar and oil. Process to a smooth paste. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the walnuts. Set aside to cool.
4 Make pancakes by putting flour in a medium-sized bowl. Make a well in the center. Add the egg, salt and ¼ cup of the water, stirring to blend.
5 Slowly add the remaining water to make a smooth batter. Heat a small, non-stick pan with 1 teaspoon oil. Spread batter out, using the back of a ladle in a circular motion to cover the pan. Cook over high heat for 1 -2 minutes, or until golden brown. Flip and cook for another minute. Repeat until the batter is used up.
6 Put 1 tablespoon of the Filling in the center of each pancake. Fold the end closest to you, then press lightly to flatten the Filling. Tuck in sides, then roll over to enclose the Filling. Fry the pancakes 1 minute on each side in 1 tablespoon oil. Serve hot.
Pea Shoots with Black Mushrooms
8 dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot water to soften, halved
2 cups (500 ml) water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch, mixed with 1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons oil 10 oz (300 g) pea shoots
¼ cup (60 ml) chicken stock
1 tablespoon rice wine or sake
1 Put soaked mushrooms, water, soy sauce and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer gently until the mushrooms become soft and tender.
2 Combine the cornstarch with water and add to the mushrooms, stirring constantly over low heat until the mixture thickens and clears. Sprinkle with sesame oil and keep warm.
3 Heat the oil in a wok and add the pea shoots. Stir-fry for a few seconds, then add the chicken stock and rice wine and simmer until tender.
4 Serve the pea shoots on a plate, with the mushrooms on one side.
Stir-fried Snow Peas with Mushrooms and Scallops
3 teaspoons cornstarch
½ cup (125 ml) chicken stock
¼ cup (60 ml) oil
14 oz (400 g) fresh scallops, washed, drained and dried
1 tablespoon rice wine or sake
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger
2 spring onions, cut in lengths
8 oz (250 g) snow peas, trimmed
3 oz (100 g) fresh button mushrooms
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
White pepper, to taste
1 Mix cornstarch and chicken stock in a small bowl and set aside. Put 1½ tablespoons of oil in a wok. When very hot, add the scallops and stir-fry over high heat for 1 minute. Add the wine and salt, stir, then quickly remove the scallops from the wok with a spatula. Keep aside in a bowl.
2 Add the remaining oil to the wok and heat. When very hot, add the ginger and spring onions and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the snow peas and mushrooms, and stir-fry over high heat for 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the sugar, soy sauce and pepper.
3 Return the scallops to the wok, adding any juices collected in the bowl. Stir to mix well. Give the stock mixture a stir to amalgamate the cornstarch, then add to the wok. Stir for 30 seconds or until the sauce thickens and clears, then transfer to a serving dish. Serve immediately.
Note: You can use fresh prawns instead of scallops for this recipe. Peel the prawns and discard the heads. Slice the underside of each prawn lengthwise until 3/4 -way though and spread out with the palm of the hand or the flat of a knife to butterfly the prawn, then stir-fry the prawns for 2 minutes.
Southern Indian Dosai
1 cup (100 g) long-grain rice, soaked in water for 6 hours, then drained
1½ cups (375 ml) water
¼ cup (40 g) white lentils (husked black gram), soaked in water for 6 hours, then drained
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup (60 ml) oil
Fresh coconut chutney (optional)
1 Put the rice in a food processor or blender and process at high speed until it resembles coarse sand. Keep the processor running and slowly pour in 1/3 cup of the water. Process to a smooth paste, then transfer to a large bowl.
2 Put the lentils in the blender or food processor and process at high speed until fine. Keep the processor running and slowly pour in 1/3 cup of the water. Blend until light and frothy. Add the lentils and salt to the rice paste, stirring to mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for 4-6 hours or overnight, until small bubbles appear. Pour in the remaining water and stir, making a light batter.
3 Pour 1 teaspoon of the oil in a non-stick frying pan or pan with a heavy base. Heat, then swirl oil to coat. When the oil is hot, pour ¼ cup batter into the center of the pan. Immediately spread the batter out, using the back of a ladle, in a circular motion to cover the pan thinly. Cook over high heat until golden brown, for 1-2 minutes. Turn, cook the other side, for 1 minute. Repeat until batter is used up. Serve with the fresh coconut chutney.
Long Beans with Fermented Bean Curd
2 tablespoons oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons plain or chili-flavored fermented bean curd, mashed
1 lb (500 g) long beans, sliced into 1½-in (4-cm) lengths
1 tablespoon rice wine or sake
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup (125 ml) water
1 Heat the oil in a wok. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for a few seconds. Add the bean curd and stir-fry until fragrant, or for 15 seconds, then put in the long beans. Stir-fry for about 30 seconds.
2 Add the rice wine, sugar and salt and continue stir-frying until the beans are tender, adding a little water from time to time to stop the beans from sticking.
Note: Jars of fermented bean curd, either plain (white) or with chili (red), are sold in supermarkets and used as a salty, pungent seasoning. The bean curd is sometimes labeled "preserved bean curd."
