Читать книгу Everyday Gourmet - William Maltese - Страница 9

WINING, DINING, AND BULLFIGHTING

If you’re a fan of bullfighting (which I am)...and if you’ve the time and money to spare (as I once did) to go to Mexico and follow the bullfights for a whole season, between November and April, selecting from among the fights occurring every Sunday afternoon in over 220 of that country’s bullrings (which it was once my good fortune to do)...then, by chance, you may eventually meet enough fellow aficionados (as I did) to get invited to one or more of the country’s bull-breeding ranches.

The Mexican state of Tlaxcala has been the center of Mexican bullfighting ever since Cortes and his fellow conquistadors stopped off there on their way to conquer the Aztec in Tenochtitlan, and is home to over forty “ganaderias”, including the country’s most famous ranch, Ganaderia La Laguna de Terrenate, established (with cows from Tepeyahualco and a breeding bull from Ibarra) in 1908; the ranch has produced more bulls for the Plaza de Toros in Mexico City than any other supplier.

It’s a fascinating experience for those who have only been to U.S. ranches to learn how all of the bulls on Mexican gandarias are never approached on foot lest they become too accustomed to seeing people that way—before a matador does just that in the bullring.

Interesting, too, is watching the tientas in the corridas of the gandarias where full-grown bulls aren’t usually “put to the cape”, rather heifers, since it’s the ongoing belief of most breeders that the bravery of the mothers determine the bravery of their offspring.

Usually following a tienta, there’s a meal to be enjoyed, and it was during one of these that I first became acquainted with the dish that follows.

Corrida Frittata

7 eggs

2 TSP milk (for the diet-conscious, skim works for me)

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp fresh ground pepper

2 TSP olive oil

1 lb asparagus, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces

½ Roma tomato, sliced

Pinch of salt

3 oz Fontina Cheese, diced

Preheat broiler.

Whisk eggs, milk, salt, and pepper together in bowl. Set aside.

Heat oil in a 10-inch oven-proof skillet, preferable nonstick, over medium heat. Sauté the asparagus until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Turn heat to medium-high.

Add diced tomatoes and a pinch of salt and sauté for 2 more minutes.

Add egg mixture and cook until eggs start to set. Reduce heat to medium-low.

Sprinkle cheese on top and cook for about 2 more minutes, until frittata is almost set (top will still be a bit runny).

Put skillet under broiler and broil until top is set and golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Remove from broiler and let stand for 2 minutes.

Garnish with the tomato slices.

Serves 6.

This is nicely accompanied by a salad of strawberries, bleu-cheese crumbles, and candied walnuts, on a bed of romaine lettuce, tossed in huckleberry vinaigrette...with crisp garlic toast strips on the side.

NOTE: Egg dishes, such as this one, usually have me serving crisp, dry white wines in accompaniment (from Mexico or otherwise), and I’ve successfully paired this with Rieslings, even Chardonnays, as well as, most preferably, various Champagnes and/or Sparkling Wines. Then, again, there are some people, and that may well be you and any number of your guests, who simply don’t think any wine goes well with asparagus.