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Crushed new potato salad

This is a good alternative to the ubiquitous mayonnaise-based potato salad. It should really be served warm, but not hot, and therefore a little thought towards timing is required. It is very good with grilled meat or fish and with rare grilled or poached salmon in particular.

Serves about 6

2 ripe plum tomatoes

50ml olive oil

1 clove of garlic, peeled and minced

6 salted anchovy fillets, roughly chopped

600g new potatoes, such as Jersey Royals, cleaned but not peeled

1 lemon

3 spring onions, washed, peeled and chopped

12 basil leaves, roughly chopped

freshly ground black pepper and, probably not, salt

Blanch the tomatoes by plunging them into boiling water for 10 seconds, then refresh in iced water or under a cold running tap. The skins should then come off easily. Quarter them, remove the pulp and discard or use elsewhere. Cut the tomato flesh neatly into 5mm dice. Reserve this concasse.

Warm the olive oil in a very small pan with the garlic and anchovies. Bring this up to heat without boiling and set aside off the heat. Boil the spuds until cooked, then drain. While still hot, place them in a flat-bottomed mixing bowl. Roughly mash with a masher or with the back of a fork. Add the olive oil with the melted anchovies and garlic, the zest of the lemon, spring onions, tomato concasse and basil. Combine thoroughly and add some pepper. Check the seasoning – it may need a tad more salt but probably not. A few drops of lemon juice will not hurt either. Serve immediately or keep in a warm place until needed.