Читать книгу Perfumes and Their Preparation - George William Askinson - Страница 2
Table of Contents
ОглавлениеCHAPTER I. THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER II. ABOUT AROMATIC SUBSTANCES IN GENERAL.
The Division of Aromatic Substances According to their Origin.
CHAPTER III. ODORS FROM THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM.
The Chemical Constitution of Vegetable Aromatic Substances.
CHAPTER IV. THE AROMATIC VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY.
Allspice. Latin —Pimenta; French —Piment; German —Piment; Nelkenpfeffer.
Anise. Latin —Pimpinella Anisum; French —Anis; German —Anis.
Balm. Latin —Melissa officinalis; French —Melisse; German —Melissenkraut.
Bay (Sweet Bay) . Latin —Laurus nobilis; French —Laurier; German —Lorbeerfrüchte.
Bay (West Indian) . Latin —Myrcia acris; French —(Huile de) Bay; German —Bay (-Oel) .
Benzoin. Latin —Benzoinum; French —Benjoin; German —Benzoëharz.
Bergamot. Latin —Citrus Bergamia; French —Bergamote; German —Bergamottefrüchte.
Bitter Almonds. Latin —Amygdala amara; French —Amandes amères; German —Bittere Mandeln.
Cajuput Leaves. Latin —Folia Cajuputi.
Camphor Wood. Latin —Lignum Camphoræ; French —Bois de camphre; German —Campherholz.
Caraway Seed. Latin —Semen Carvi; French —Carvi; German —Kümmelsamen.
Cascarilla Bark. Latin —Cortex Cascarillæ; French —Cascarille; German —Cascarillarinde.
Cassie. Latin —Acacia farnesiana; French —Cassie; German —Acacie.
Cedar Wood. Latin —Lignum Cedri; French —Bois de cèdre; German —Cedernholz.
Cinnamon. Latin —Cinnamomum; French —Canelle; German —Zimmtrinde.
Citron. Latin —Fructus Citri; French —Citron; German —Citronenfrüchte.
Citron Flowers. Latin —Flores Citri; French —Fleurs de citron; German —Citronenblüthen.
Cherrylaurel Leaves. Latin —Folia Laurocerasi; French —Laurier-cérise; German —Kirschlorbeerblätter.
Citronella. Latin —Andropogon Nardus; French —Citronelle; German —Citronella.
Clove. Latin —Caryophylli; French —Clous de girofle; German —Nelkengewürz.
Cucumber. Latin —Cucumis sativus; French —Concombre; German —Gurke.
Culilaban Bark. Latin —Cortex Culilavan; French —Ecorce culilaban; German —Kulilabanrinde.
Dill. Latin —Semen Anethi; French —Aneth; German —Dillsamen.
Elder Flowers. Latin —Flores Sambuci; French —Sureau; German —Hollunderblüthen.
Fennel (Seed and Herb) . Latin —Fœniculum; French —Fenouil; German —Fenchel.
Geranium . Latin —Pelargonium roseum; French —Géranium; German —Geranium.
Heliotrope. Latin —Heliotropium peruvianum; French —Héliotrope; German —Heliotropenblüthen.
Honeysuckle. Latin —Flores Loniceræ; French —Chèvre-feuille; German —- Geisblattblüthen.
Hyssop. Latin —Hyssopus officinalis; French —Hyssope; German —Ysopkraut.
Jasmine. Latin —Jasminum odoratissimum; French —Jasmin; German —Jasminblüthen.
Lavender. Latin —Lavandula vera; French —Lavande; German —Lavendel.
Lemon. Latin —Citrus Limonum; French —Limon; German —Limonenfrüchte.
Lemon Grass. Latin —Andropogon citrates; French —Schoenanthe; German —Citronengrass.
Lilac. Latin —Flores Syringæ; French —Lilas; German —Fliederblüthen.
Lily. Latin —Lilium candidum; French —Lis; German —Lilienblüthen.
Mace. Latin —Macis; French —Macis; German —Muscatblüthe.
Magnolia. Latin —Magnolia grandiflora; French —Magnolia; German —Magnoliablüthen.
Marjoram. Latin —Herba majoranæ; French —Marjolaine; German —Majorankraut.
Meadow Sweet. Latin —Spiræa ulmaria; French —Reine des prés; German —Spierstaude.
Mint. Latin —Mentha; French —Menthe; German —Minze.
Musk-Seed. Latin —Semen Abelmoschi; French —Grains d’ambrette; German —Bisamkörner.
Myrrh. Latin —Myrrha; French —Myrrhe; German —Myrrhe.
Myrtle Leaves. Latin —Myrtus communis; French —Myrte; German —Myrtenblätter.
Narcissus. Latin —Narcissus poeticus; French —Narcisse; German —Narcissenblüthen.
Nutmeg. Latin —Myristica; French —Muscade; German —Muscatnüsse.
Olibanum. Latin —Olibanum; French —Encens; German —Weihrauch.
Opopanax. Latin —Resina Opopanax.
Orange Flowers. Latin —Flores Aurantii; French —Fleurs d’oranges; German —Orangenblüthen.
Orange Peel. Latin —Cortex Aurantii; French —Ecorce d’oranges; German —Orangenschalen.
Orris Root. Latin —Radix Iridis florentinæ; French —Iris; German —Veilchenwurzel.
Palm Oil. Latin —Oleum Palmæ; French —Huile de Palme; German —Palmöl.
Patchouly. Latin —Pogostemon Patchouly; French —Patchouly; German —Patschulikraut.
Peru Balsam. Latin —Balsamum peruvianum; French —Beaume du Pérou; German —Perubalsam.
Pine-apple. Latin —Bromelia Ananas; French —Ananas; German —Ananas.
Pink. Latin —Dianthus Caryophyllus; French —Œillet; German —Nelkenblüthen.
Plumeria. Latin —Plumeria; French —Plumeria; German —Plumeriablüthen.
Reseda (Mignonette) . Latin —Reseda odorata; French —Mignonette; German —Reseda.
Rhodium. Latin —Lignum Rhodii; French —Bois de rose; German —Rosenholz.
Rose. Latin —Rosa; French —Rose; German —Rosenblüthen.
Rosemary. Latin —Rosmarinus officinalis; French —Romarin; German —Rosmarin.
Rue. Latin —Ruta graveolens; French —Rue; German —Raute.
Sage. Latin —Salvia officinalis; French —Sauge; German —Salbei.
Santal Wood. Latin —Santalum album; French —Santal; German —Santalholz.
Sassafras. Latin —Lignum Sassafras; French —Sassafras; German —Sassafrasholz.
Spikenard. Latin —Nardostachys Jatamansi; French —Spic-nard; German —Nardenkraut.
Star-Anise. Latin —Illicium; Semen Anisi stellati; French —Badiane; German —Sternanis.
Storax. Latin —Styrax; French —Styrax; German —Storax.
Sumbul Root. Latin —Radix Sumbul; French —Soumboul; German —Moschuswurzel.
Sweet Almonds. Latin —Amygdala dulcis; French —Amandes douces; German —Süsse Mandeln.
Sweet-Flag Root. Latin —Radix Calami; French —Racine de glaïeule; German —Calmuswurzel.
Sweet-Pea. Latin —Lathyrus tuberosus; French —Pois de senteur; German —Platterbsenblüthen.
Syringa. Latin —Philadelphus coronarius; French —Seringat, Lilac; German —Pfeifenstrauchblüthen.
Thyme. Latin —Thymus Serpyllum; French —Thym; German —Thymian.
Tolu Balsam. Latin —Balsamum tolutanum; French —Beaume de Tolu; German —Tolubalsam.
Tonka Beans. Latin —Fabæ Tonkæ; French —Fèves de Tonka; German —Tonkabohnen, Tonkasamen.
Tuberose. Latin —Polianthus tuberosa; French —Tubérose; German —Tuberose.
Vanilla. Latin —Vanilla aromatica, Vanilla planifolia; French —Vanille; German —Vanille.
Verbena. Latin —Verbena triphylla, Aloysia citriodora; French —Verveine; German —Verbenakraut.
Vetiver. Latin —Andropogon muricatus; French —Vétyver; German —Vetiverwurzel.
Violet. Latin —Viola odorata; French —Violette; German —Veilchenblüthen.
Wallflower. Latin —Cheiranthus Cheiri; French —Giroflé; German —Levkojenblüthen, Goldlack.
Wintergreen. Latin —Gaultheria procumbens; French —Gaulthérie; German —Wintergrünblätter.
CHAPTER V. THE ANIMAL SUBSTANCES USED IN PERFUMERY.
Ambergris. Latin —Ambra grisea; French —Ambregris; German —Ambra.
Castor. Latin —Castoreum; French —Castoreum; German —Castoreum.
Musk. Latin —Moschus; French —Musc; German —Moschus.
Civet. Latin —Civetta; French —Civette; German —Zibeth.
CHAPTER VI. THE CHEMICAL PRODUCTS USED IN PERFUMERY.
A. Chemicals used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances.
B. Chemical Products used for the Preparation of Perfumes.
C. The Colors used in Perfumery.
CHAPTER VII. THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS.
CHAPTER VIII. THE SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES.
Oil of Bitter Almond (Oleum Amygdale Amaræ) ,
Oil of Cajeput (Oleum Cajuputi)
Oil of Calamus (Oleum Calami) .
Oil of Chamomile (Oleum Chamomillæ) .
Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis, Oleum Citri)
Oil of Coriander (Oleum Coriandri)
Oil of Elder (Oleum Sambuci) .
Oil of Culilaban (Oleum Culilavani)
Oil of Lavender (Oleum Lavandulæ) .
Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis) ,
Oil of Sweet Bay (Laurel) (Oleum Lauri)
Oil of Marjoram (Oleum Majoranæ) .
Oils of Mace and Nutmeg (Oleum Macidis and Oleum Myristicæ) .
Oil of Clove (Oleum Caryophylli) .
Oil of Orange Flowers (Oleum Naphæ, Oleum Neroli) ,
Oil of Rosemary (Oleum Rosmarini) .
Oil of Santal (Oleum Santali) .
Oil of Sassafras (Oleum Sassafras)
Oil of Meadow-sweet (Oleum Spirææ) .
Oil of Star-Anise (Oleum Anisi Stellati; Oleum Illicii)
Oil of Vetiver (Oleum Ivaranchusæ) ,
Oil of Wintergreen (Oleum Gaultheriæ) .
Oil of Ylang-Ylang (Oleum Unonæ odoratissimæ)
Oils of Cinnamon (Oleum Cinnamomi) .
Oil of Turpentine (Oleum Terebinthinæ) ,
CHAPTER IX. THE ADULTERATIONS OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR RECOGNITION.
A. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Other Essential Oils.
B. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Fixed Oils.
D. Adulteration with Paraffin, Spermaceti, or Wax.
CHAPTER X. THE ESSENCES OR EXTRACTS EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER XI. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS.
Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie) .
Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris) .
Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin) .
Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte) .
Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum) .
Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette) .
Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande) .
Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaïeul) .
Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cèdre) .
Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de Cèdre) .
Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe) .
Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas) .
Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres) .
Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Héliotrope) .
Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin) .
Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande) .
Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé) .
Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys) .
Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon) .
Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia) .
Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe) .
Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Musc) .
Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte) .
Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles) .
Extract of Pink (Extrait d’Œillet) .
Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Néroli) .
Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli) .
Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Pérou) .
Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment) .
Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de senteur) .
Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette) .
Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose) .
Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal) .
Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax) .
Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou) .
Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka) .
Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose) .
Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille) .
Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette) .
Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris) .
Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine) .
Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria) .
Essence of Vetiver (Extrait de Vétiver) .
Extract of Wintergreen (Extrait de Gaulthérie) .
Tincture of Civet (Extrait de Civette) .
Tincture of Cinnamon (Extrait de Canelle) .
CHAPTER XII. THE DIVISION OF PERFUMERY.
Preparations for the Care of the Skin.
Preparations for the Care of the Hair.
CHAPTER XIII. THE MANUFACTURE OF HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, BOUQUETS, OR AROMATIC WATERS.
CHAPTER XIV. FORMULAS FOR HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES.
Baisers du Printemps (Spring Kisses) .
Convallaria (Lily of the Valley, Fleurs de Mai) .
Couronne de Fleurs (Garland of Flowers) .
A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French formula) .
B. Bouquet Esterhazy (German formula) .
Essence des Bouquets, A (Ess. Bouquet) .
Heliotrope, A (Extrait de Héliotrope) .
Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille) .
Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne) .
Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé) .
Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia) .
C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose.
Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse) .
Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli) .
Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales) .
Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise) .
Verbena A (Extrait de Verveine) .
Forest Breeze (Pine-Needle Odor.)
CHAPTER XV. AMMONIACAL AND ACID PERFUMES.
CHAPTER XVII. FORMULAS FOR DRY PERFUMES (SACHETS) .
CHAPTER XVIII. THE PERFUMES USED FOR FUMIGATION.
Fumigating Pastils. French —Pastilles fumigatoires; German —Räucherkerzen.
Fumigating Waters and Vinegars (Eaux Encensoires, Vinaigres Encensoires) .
Fumigating Powders (Poudres Encensoires) .
CHAPTER XIX. HYGIENIC AND COSMETIC PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER XX. PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN.
D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves.
CHAPTER XXII. THE PREPARATIONS USED FOR THE CARE OF THE HAIR (POMADES AND HAIR OILS) .
CHAPTER XXIII. FORMULAS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF POMADES AND HAIR OILS.
Beef-Marrow Pomade (Pomade à Moëlle de Bœuf) .
CHAPTER XXIV. PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE MOUTH.
C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes (Essences Dentifrices) .
CHAPTER XXV. COSMETIC PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER XXVI. SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS.
B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges) .
CHAPTER XXVII. HAIR COSMETICS.
CHAPTER XXVIII. HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
CHAPTER XXIX. WAX POMADES, BANDOLINES, AND BRILLIANTINES.
CHAPTER XXX. THE COLORS USED IN PERFUMERY.
