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What type of restaurants locate in gentrifying neighborhoods and what does it say about their potential role in this process of neighborhood transformation? To answer this question, we turned our attention to the content of restaurant reviews and created word clouds—a visualization tool increasingly used by geographers in exploratory qualitative data analysis to identify frequently used terms (Cidell 2010).⁴ Figure 1.3 reveals the one hundred most common terms used by consumers and professionals in their online reviews, with font sizes proportional to word frequencies.

Several key themes stand out, as previously identified in the literature on contemporary urban foodscapes (Joassart-Marcelli and Bosco 2018a; Johnston and Baumann 2010; Zukin et al. 2009). First, authenticity and cosmopolitanism appear to be of great importance to many consumers, who value food and dining experiences reflecting their appreciation of ethnic diversity and knowledge of exotic cuisine. For many, this is associated with a sense of discovery and a willingness to trade certain amenities like safety, speed, décor, and even cleanliness for “authentic” food. This is especially true in Barrio Logan, which is often described in the media as a “rough” neighborhood with a rich Chicano culture. For example, Las Cuatro Milpas is one of the most frequently reviewed restaurants:

Mexican food doesn’t get more authentic on this side of the border than at Las Cuatro Milpas. Don’t be deterred by the line. You just have to accept the fact that there is always a line, so stand in it like everyone else has been doing for the last 82 years. (Jackson and Norris 2016)

I can’t believe such delicious food could come out of a hole in a wall. I thought this place might be one of those secret joints that only locals know about, but apparently yelpers are in the know! The diners are mostly locals and most of the workers don’t speak a lot of English. It can be a little intimidating when ordering since the lines are long and there’s really not much of a menu. We basically got almost one of everything. It feels truly authentic and their food reflects that. The decor is bare and nothing fancy. Just some old tables and chairs with tablecloths over them in an open room with brown tiled floors. EVERYTHING is ridiculously delicious and tastes like it’s been made by a Mexican grandmother. (Yelp 2018)

Figure 1.3a–b. Word Clouds of Common Terms Used in Reviews of Ten Most Popular Restaurants in North Park and Barrio Logan. Author’s computation based on Yelp, Eater, Zagat, and Thrillist top reviews of ten most popular restaurants (2018).

The ability to identify authentic food is an important aspect of cosmopolitan taste, which distinguishes foodies from other consumers who presumably do not have the knowledge or interest to venture out of their comfort zone to try new foods. Yet, as Heldke (2003) and others have noted, claims of authenticity are usually made by outsiders and therefore reflect a position of power and appropriation. Indeed, reviews suggest that authenticity is a contested and evolving idea, with outsiders’ understanding of authenticity clashing with that of long-term residents. For instance, out-of-town visitors “really felt like [they] were living an authentic Chicano cultural experience” or had “somehow crossed the border” at ¡Salud!. However, a long-term Barrio Logan resident disagreed:

All these people writing these great reviews saying how great their tacos are don’t know what good tacos are or haven’t had any great tacos in their life. I’m just being honest with everyone. I ordered three tacos de carne asada which almost have identical taste as those from [a less hyped local taco shop]. The Birria was decent but lacks a bit of flavor. My neighbor across the street knows how to make Birria and let me tell you right now he makes better Birria than them. And that’s a Fact!

Unfortunately, claims of authenticity also represent a way of determining what elements of the food landscape are worth keeping, forcing restaurant owners to adapt in order to remain in place (Gaytán 2008). While newly discovered “hidden gems” that appeal to new residents may stay and even flourish, “dumps” will likely disappear because they symbolize a past that no longer fits with the new identity of the neighborhood.

Second, the appeal of casual and simple food is also striking, indicating a democratization of food. Reviewers in both neighborhoods invoke simplicity as an important criterion for assessing the value of food. The word clouds in figure 1.3 include terms such as simple, basic, and home. Tacos, hot dogs, donuts, and BBQ are among the most highly praised foods in both communities. Similarly, beer has replaced wine as the beverage of choice, signaling an appreciation for simple products historically associated with the working class. Indeed, as we write this chapter, a brand-new restaurant named Working Class just opened in North Park, reinforcing the legitimacy of seemingly simple food and drinks as new markers of good taste.

As Johnston and Bauman (2010) argue, the democratization of dining, which appears to be taking place in many cities, may reflect a false egalitarianism that masks a persistent desire for social distinction, particularly “in a cultural context that endorses democratic ideals and rejects overt snobbery” (p. 2). Other food characteristics, such as local, organic, vegan, authentic, homemade, and artisanal, become signifiers of distinction. Although foodies may be willing to eat hot dogs, not every hot dog is equally appealing. In that sense, simplicity overlaps with authenticity and other values in reinforcing social differences between eaters. For instance, in Barrio Logan, a new hot dog stand has received significant attention as a “casual counter-service spot with inventive hot dogs.” One review’s author claims that although “tacos will always be San Diego’s one true love, […] this ultra-casual counter service outfit in the Barrio makes a strong argument for specialty hot dogs suited up with inspired toppings like pickled jicama and wasabi sesame seeds” (Jackson 2017). In many cases, classic food is “reinvented” and “updated” with an exaggerated sense of nostalgia that, like authenticity, tends to appeal to outsiders who experience the food and the setting with greater attention to details, particularly those worth posting on social media.

It is perhaps not surprising that in both neighborhoods the words place, spot, city, street, and area appear quite frequently in the reviews, underscoring the importance of place in distinguishing restaurants. While these may not be used in the way that geographers conceptualize place as a set of social relations, they nevertheless reflect the importance of context, which was often described in detail in the reviews. It is also worth noting that Yelp reviewers often refer to Barrio Logan as “the barrio,” with an odd mixture of admiration and aversion. The terms discover and developer/ing also suggest that these places are in flux and not yet fully established. In fact, the neighborhoods themselves contribute to the attractiveness and authenticity of many food establishments that would not be valued equally in a different setting. For instance, a Yelp reviewer writes about her experience discovering Rolando’s Taco Shop in Barrio Logan:

I am scared! Scared of a lot of things about this place. Going there by myself. Sitting at a table. Touching anything. But I am not scared of the food. And that is why, I am giving this place in Barrio Logan 4 stars despite the … ummm … unsavoriness of the surroundings […] A little sketchy but the food is GREAT! […] Better than great. Hands down the best Carnitas and best Tortillas I have EVER had. […] We all left with full bellies and happy smiles. But we rushed to our car … didn’t want to be caught hanging around.

The urban aesthetic of the food establishments features prominently in the reviews and is often associated with values such as historic preservation, sustainability, and sociability—revealing a form of ethical consumerism whereby consumers seek to support causes or assert their moral values through consumption choices. Interest in sociability can be observed in the popularity of communal tables where strangers eat side by side and of open kitchens where diners can interact with bartenders, servers, and chefs. The expectation of social interaction is also an important aspect in gastropubs and breweries, which are very common in both neighborhoods. Outdoor eating areas also tend to be more casual and often include a small edible garden, which appeals to many educated and environmentally conscious consumers.

Figure 1.4. Barrio Logan and North Park’s Foodscapes. Maps and photographs by author.

The desire to preserve—or more accurately recreate—historic character can be observed in figure 1.4, which illustrates the material foodscape of City Heights and Barrio Logan. Many of the new restaurants embrace an industrial and urban architectural style that capitalizes on the existing hardscape of the neighborhood, but also seeks to reframe or elevate it by exaggerating certain details and appropriating elements from the past or other cultures. Vintage signs, colorful murals, rusted steel, wall gardens, and reclaimed wood are all very popular. The emerging landscape resembles what Jameson (1991) calls a “postmodern pastiche”—an imitation or cannibalization of the past that reflects our consumer culture and the commodification of style. This is especially noticeable in Barrio Logan, where elements of Chicano culture are used by many new businesses. For instance, Barrio Dogg’s counter is built out of a 1964 lowrider Chevy Impala; Por Vida’s signage resembles murals found in nearby Chicano Park—a key site of the Chicano movement which represents Mexican Americans’ struggles for social and environmental justice and was recently added to the National Register of Historic Places; and ¡Salud!’s interior décor includes both of these elements. These cultural symbols, however, appeal mostly to outsiders who interpret them as signs of authenticity and cosmopolitanism, while longtime residents for whom these symbols carry a different meaning tend to resent their commodification and decontextualization from the historic struggles they symbolize (Joassart-Marcelli and Bosco 2019).