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—A short heavy bottle about 3 in. or 4 in. high is best for bench use as a flux container. It should be particularly noted that soldering and soldering tackle should be kept as far away from other work (and iron and steel goods and tools) as possible.

A pointed wooden stick is not a good tool for applying killed spirit, because the acid acts on the wood, which becomes unpleasant to handle, and the liquid does not leave the wood readily enough to place the right quantity on the exact spot to be soldered. A galvanised iron wire is better. Another good tool is a thin steel or iron “spit,” about 12 in. long, and a steel knitting-needle is also excellent. Should a brush be preferred, take a few hairs from a broom, place them in one end of a thin metal tube, and then flatten the end with a blow from a hammer.

A brush made by hammering the ends of a short length of cane until the fibres are like bristles is frequently used for the purpose, the handle end being soaked in molten wax before using the cane brush the first time.

Fig. 1.—Wire for Applying Flux

A convenient method of applying liquid flux is to have a bottle with a screw cap sprinkling top such as is often used for perfumes, and to push a length of thick galvanised iron wire through the orifice in the stopper, leaving about 1¹⁄₂ in. projecting above. The lower end should just reach the bottom of the bottle, and may be flattened and pointed. The lead nipple is squeezed round the wire to hold it firmly, and the projecting end bent into a ring to form a handle, as shown in Fig. 1. The cork part should be thinned a little to render it an easy fit in the bottle neck. The flux can be quickly applied with the wire exactly where it is wanted, and in very small quantity; for a long seam the wire can be run along with one dip in the solution. The fingers need not be brought into contact with the flux; the cork will not go soft and will not sink down owing to the lead flange supporting it.