Читать книгу Let's Go Europe 2019 - Harvard Student Agencies - Страница 12
ОглавлениеBELGIUM
Belgium tends to fall victim to misunderstanding: “Don’t they all speak Dutch?” “Brussels is boring?” And, the dreaded “I thought (fill in the blank) was French.” But this multifaceted nation is worth understanding. With its northern Flemish and southern Walloon influences, there is some cultural and political tension, but its people are primarily, and proudly, Belgian. The charmingly small cities and natural beauty of the Ardennes provide stunning scenery, while Brussels serves as home to the most important institutions of Europe. As the seat of the European Union and NATO, the nation’s capital hosts tons of international professionals (who you can find looking to blow off steam after work). That said, its relaxed culture is so pronounced that the country was able to go 589 days in 2010 and 2011 without an elected government.
As far as Belgian specialties, it’s not all chocolate, waffles, Belgian (not French) fries, and admittedly excellent beer. Moules-frites, jenever, carbonade flamande, and waterzooi provide more fodder for the imagination and the stomach. As far as art, the Dutch masters have nothing on the Flemish Primitives like Jan van Eyck and Bruegel, or surrealists like Magritte. Of course, we can’t forget Tintin, the intrepid detective, and his dog Snowy, as well as Asterix and Obelix. And as far as cities, Belgium is home to some undiscovered gems—which are hipper, cheaper, and less touristy alternatives to the typical Eurotrip itinerary.
BRUSSELS
Coverage by Emily Corrigan
When you first arrive in Brussels, you may be confused to find that the streets have have names: one in Dutch and the other in French. Even the city itself has two different names—the Dutch Brussel and the French Bruxelles. This linguistic and cultural mélange speaks to the city’s character as a true melting pot. Brusseleirs tend to be laid-back and welcoming, especially as Brussels is less of a tourist madhouse than many other European cities. Outside the city center, Brussels has an authentic feel, finding its roots in cafés and parks, where little old ladies sip from giant goblets of beer, couples make out, and joggers work off delicious, so-worth-the-calories fries. Even the parts that feel like tourist traps turn out to be satisfying: you’re sure to see visitors and locals alike popping into chocolate shops or buying waffles from a cart. There is a vibrant energy here, with public murals and lively comic book stores constant reminders of the city’s artistic passions. Brussels is full of wonderful restaurants, old breweries, and dynamic squares. You’ll find yourself wondering how everyone seems to have so much time for just hanging out and drinking beer. Relax, you’re in Brussels.
ORIENTATION
The Brussels city center is where you’ll find the photo ops. The Grand Place dominates the tourist attractions while small streets and tall, narrow buildings give it a characteristic Belgian feel. The two Sablon churches (Grand and Petit) are the centerpieces of the historic Salon neighborhood just southeast of the center. Further southeast is Ixelles, bordered by the upscale Avenue Louise, which leads down to the forest of Bois de la Cambre. Attractive townhouses, European institutions, and the lovely Parc du Cinquantenaire define Etterbeek to the east. Schaerbeek to the north features wide avenues, lovely architecture, and a vibrant mix of international residents. The buses, trams, and metro lines make traversing the city efficient, but it’s also easy to explore Brussels’ various neighborhoods on foot.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Brussels Airport lies northeast of the city center. The easiest way to get into the city is by bus, using the bus station a level below the arrivals. Bus tickets cost €4 at the station, but €6 if you buy them on the bus. Brussels also has a number of train stations throughout the city, making it easy to arrive fairly close to where you need to go.
GETTING AROUND
Bus, tram, and metro lines run across the city and are fairly easy to use. It’s possible to use the same type of ticket for all three. Tickets cost €2.10 and are valid for one hour. The Villo! public bike service is free for the first half hour and has stations throughout the city. The basic rate for a day is €1.60.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Flanders and Brussels Information Office (Rue du Marché aux Herbes 61; 02 504 03 00; open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm)
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Bank of Baroda (Rue de la Loi 28; 02 285 00 40)
Post Offices: 5, Bd. Anspach 1; 02 201 23 45; open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 10am-4pm
Internet: The city of Brussels offers free public Wi-Fi in many points around the city. It will prompt you to register with your name and email.
BGLTQ+ Resources: Rainbowhouse (Rue du Marché au Charbon 42; 02 503 59 90)
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112
Police: Brussels Police Station (Rue du Marché au Charbon 30; 02 279 79 79)
US Embassy: There is a US Embassy in Brussels (Bd. du Régent 27; 02 811 40 00; open M-F 7:30am-5:30pm).
Rape Crisis Center: US State Department Rape and Incest National Network; 1-800-656-HOPE (4673)
Hospitals: Institut Jules Bordet (Bd. de Waterloo 121; 02 541 31 11)
Pharmacies: De Brouckere (02 218 05 75)
ACCOMMODATIONS
2GO4 HOSTEL CITY CENTER ($)
Bd. Emile Jacqmain 99; 022 19 30 19; www.2go4.be/qualityhostel; reception open 7:30am-1pm and 4pm-11pm
This hostel’s lounge strongly resembles a vintage motorcycle shop owned by an eclectic, reclusive, horn-rimmed-glasses-wearing old man. Old go-karts hang from the walls alongside punching bags, a piano, and tiny chairs topped with potted plants. Confusing new treasures reside in every nook and cranny of the open space. The surrounding area is equally busy, perhaps even cluttered. The hostel is close to the shopping street Rue Neuve and the hustle and bustle of the Grand Place. Plus, if you burn through all your extra cash shopping, you can always cook at the hostel’s fully stocked kitchen and grab coffee for free every morning. So GO4 it!
i Dorms from €21; reservation required; no wheelchair accessibility ; Wi-Fi; luggage storage; towels for rent
BRXXL 5 CITY CENTRE HOSTEL ($)
Rue de Woeringen 5; 02 5 02 37 10; www.brxxl5.com; reception open 24hr
A lively lounge area, complete with a pool table, sets the tone at this social hostel, located within walking distance of the city center and train station Gare du Midi. People congregate downstairs and in the outdoor courtyard to hang out, watch music videos, and use the Wi-Fi. It doesn’t hurt that there are cute kitties living here, too. The service is top-notch, with free hot drinks, vending machines, and an attentive staff. The only drawback is the tiny beds, but we doubt you’ll be spending much time in bed anyway when there’s fun to be had and kittens to be pet, amirite?
i Dorms from €23; reservation required; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels for rent; luggage storage; lockers provided
HOSTEL BRUEGEL ($)
Rue du Saint-Esprit 2; 25 11 04 36; www.jeugdherbergen.be/en/youth-hostels/city-hostels/brussel-bruegel; reception open 7am-1:30pm and 2pm-1am
Walking out of Hostel Bruegel, you’ll have to avoid running headfirst into the beautiful Église Notre-Dame de la Chapelle, located approximately six feet away. The church isn’t all this hostel is close to though: it’s within easy walking distance of many of Brussels’ best sights and nightlife, too. If you’re taking advantage of the latter, just make sure to put a deposit down for a late-night key, or else you’ll get locked out when reception closes at 1am. Rooms with only a handful of beds and en suite bathrooms certainly trump the dozen-bed barracks of other hostels, and a free breakfast rounds out this comfortable and affordable lodging.
i Dorms from €23; reservation required; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; luggage storage; free breakfast
SIGHTS
CULTURE
AVENUE LOUISE/BOIS DE LA CAMBRE
Open daily 24hr
With window shopping on the itinerary, Avenue Louise makes you wish you had a soul-sucking, six-figure job. On one end, near the Louise tram stop, is a ledge overlooking the entire city of Brussels (spot the Atomium!) and on the other end is Bois de la Cambre, a beautiful forest with a large pond. Walk along the road until you tire of not being able to buy every designer backpack that you see, and then take the #93 or #94 tram straight to Bois de la Cambre to reassure yourself that the simple pleasures of life are the most important.
i Establishment prices vary
ANTWERP
The people of Antwerp may be known for their big talk (especially in neighboring Ghent) but they have the city to back it up. From a castle on the river to a main square sprinkled with gold-plated guildhalls, Antwerp is certainly attractive. It boasts a train station widely considered the world’s most beautiful, as well as the largest diamond district on this earth. Antwerp is closer in culture and language to the southern Netherlands than many of its fellow Belgian cities, yet a strong international community lends it a worldly vibe. Antwerp won’t disappoint as a place to spend the day strolling (or biking) around, visiting its many museums, or just enjoying its relaxed Flemish lifestyle.
Arriving at the stunning Antwerpen-Centraal train station will find you on the eastern side of the city. The station is right near the zoo, Flemish painter Peter Paul Ruben’s house, the diamond district, and the Jewish quarter, with a small Chinatown directly across from it. To the west, bordered by the scenic Scheldt River, you’ll find the Oude Stad, or “old city” district, where the Grote Markt serves as the main square and the lovely churches define the skyline. Many streets here are reserved for pedestrians.
GETTING THERE
Antwerp has a small international airport. Antwerpen-Berchem train station is near the airport and provides national connections. Buses 51, 52, and 53 stop right in front of the airport and can take you to Antwerpen-Berchem in about 10min., where more bus lines are available. International trains and many national trains arrive at Antwerpen-Centraal, a beautiful train station on the eastern side of the city with easy connections to the bus and metro. Most buses also arrive at Antwerpen-Centraal.
GETTING AROUND
Bus and tram tickets can be purchased at newsstands, supermarkets, and machines located at many of the stops. An individual ticket costs €3, while a day pass costs €6. Antwerp’s public bike rental service, Velo, has stations all around the city. Just look for the rows of red bikes. The first half hour is free, the second half hour is €0.50, the next is €1, and after that it’s €5 per hour. A day pass costs €4.
Swing by…
GROTE MARKT
Old City Quarter; open daily 24hr
Without a doubt the most photogenic square (and there are many competitors for this title), the Grote Markt, located in the old medieval part of town, is a must-see. Featuring ornate guildhalls and an entrancing fountain, this gorgeous spot is close to the castle and the Scheldt River, the spire of the Cathedral of Our Lady towering over it. The land was originally donated to the city by Duke Henry I of Brabant way back in 1220, meaning you’re hardly the first to have a beer in the surrounding cafés or scoff at the seven different restaurants with the “best mussels in the city.” There, you’ll the tourist office, the beautiful city hall, and the Antwerp Jazz Club; in the winter, you’ll find a Christmas market.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
Check out…
ANTWERP ZOO
Koningin Astridplein 20-26; 03 224 89 10; www.zooantwerpen.be/en; open daily 10am-7pm
Even in their enclosures, the snakes of the Antwerp Zoo are masters of camouflage—it’s certainly making us look over our shoulders more often in the forest. But these elusive creatures are far from the only ones to be seen. We’re talking kangaroos. We’re talking large cats. We’re talking primates, zebras, giraffes, and a butterfly garden. This place has all the animals you know and love and plenty you never knew existed. Catch the sea lion shows, walk through the large aquarium, and marvel at koalas sleeping and monkeys grooming. The zoo is massive and the animals are allowed ample space to roam. It may be expensive, but it’s a koala-ty zoo, we’re not lion.
i Admission €26, €24.50 if booked online, students €24; sea lion shows and feeding times can be found at the museum entrance; wheelchair accessible
Grab a bite at…
BENI FALAFEL ($)
Lange Leemstraat 188; 03 218 82 11; www.benifalafel.be/en; open M-Th 11:30am-10pm, F 11:30am-2:30pm, Su noon-10pm
In the historic Jewish Quarter, this Israeli falafel restaurant boasts some of the most delicious and moist falafel in Belgium. See? We think it’s even tasty enough to justify the use of the word moist! For a cheap and quick lunch, grab a thick piece of pita full of vegetarian and kosher delights, either for-here or to-go. Spicy sauces come alongside your meal, making it a flavorful, if not steam-out-the-ear inducing, lunch. Soup, sides, and desserts are also on the menu if you decide your falafel needs a friend.
i Soup from €3, falafel dishes from €3; kosher and vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility
Don’t miss…
MUSEUM PLANTIN MORETUS
Vrijdagmarkt 22-23; 03 221 14 50; www.museumplantinmoretus.be/nl
Located in the historic former home of sixteenth-century printer Christophe Plantin, this gorgeous museum explores his famous printing business, the Officina Plantiniana. Aside from the beauty of the home itself, whose artwork and courtyard were frequented queens and princes, the museum holds Plantin’s finest handiwork, libraries of books, and the printing room with the original printing presses (including the two oldest surviving presses in the world). Books are ubiquitous, from a manual of Arabic proverbs, to a Hebrew grammar book, to collections of delicate illustrations and colorful maps. Countless interesting objects await your discovery, like the old type cases holding over 90 fonts. And to think that from this rich, bibliophilic tradition emerged Comic Sans. Plantin would be rolling in his grave.
i Admission €8, students €6; ground floor wheelchair accessible, no wheelchair accessibility on the top floor; keep your wristband to leave and return throughout the day
PARC DE BRUXELLES AND THÉÂTRE ROYAL DU PARC
Rue de la Loi 3; 25 05 30 30; www.theatreduparc.be; open Tu-F noon-7pm
A few minutes in the Parc de Bruxelles will have you wondering why Belgium doesn’t continually win all Olympic track and field events. (There are certainly enough joggers training here to warrant it.) But the park offers so much more than a prime running path—you can enjoy watching ducklings bob around an enormous fountain, recline in the shade under a canopy of vines, and daydream about the more attractive marble statues coming to life. The cultural experience, however, comes from enjoying a stage performance at the Théâtre Royal du Parc, a beautiful theater on the edge of the park.
i Show prices vary, park entry free; check online schedule for show times; wheelchair accessible
LANDMARKS
ÉGLISE NOTRE-DAME DU SABLON
Rue de la Régence 3; 320 25 11 57 41; www.upbxlcentre.be/eglises/notre-dame-du-sablon/; open M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-7pm
The church’s history begins with a group of crossbowmen who obtained the land to build a chapel honoring the Virgin Mary. Of course, the statue commemorating her, currently inside the church, is not the original: that one got paraded around the edifice annually, which was a nice break from listening to organ music 24/7/364. Construction finally finished in the 1500s, more than century after they started the project. Now you can visit the fruits of their labors and see the stained glass windows decorated with the coats of arms of families who lost members in World War II.
i Free; no wheelchair accessibility; must cover shoulders and knees to enter; must observe silence in building
ROYAL PALACE
Rue Brederode 16, B; 25 51 20 20; www.monarchie.be/en/heritage/royal-palace-of-brussels; open July 21-Sept 1 Tu-Su 10:30am-3:45pm
Across from the Parc de Bruxelles and just around the corner from the Royal Palace of Fine Arts, this impressive palace is a necessary and convenient stop on your sightseeing tour of Brussels. It’s the official home of the King and Queen of the Belgians. Even though visitors are only allowed inside from July 21st to the beginning of September, the palace is impressive enough from the outside to warrant a quick visit. Creatively trimmed shrubs line the courtyard and regal golden gates frame the front. Plus, you may be lucky enough to witness the changing of the solemn-faced guards or catch a glimpse of an important-looking person walking through a hallway. Riveting!
i Free
MUSEUMS
CENTRE BELGE DE LA BANDE DESSINÉE (BELGIAN COMIC STRIP CENTER)
Rue des Sables 20; 22 19 19 80; www.comicscenter.net/en/home; open daily 10am-6pm
Bande dessinée, or comic strips, hold an important place in Belgian culture. Humorous characters like Tintin and Asterix are household names, and we can see why. The medium casts a wide net, including everything from serious and painstakingly drawn dramas to wordless collections of short scenes. The Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée (CBBD) is a tribute to the Belgian art form and proof of the seriousness of this national obsession. The museum showcases the entire drawing, script-writing, and production processes, culminating in countless displays of artists’ funny and beautiful work. In addition to the museum, visitors can page through comic books in the library and bookstore. Any fan of the form cannot afford miss it.
i Admission €8, students €7; no wheelchair accessibility
MUSEUM OF MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
Rue Montagne de la Cour 2; 25 45 01 30; www.mim.be; open Tu-F 9:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm
This might be painful to get through for the pun averse, but bEAR with us. We’re not trying to harp on you, but the Musical Instrument Museum is a must-see. Pick up headphones at the ticket counter, and follow the audio guide through the four floors of musical exhibits. The earphones are no treble to use; numbers on the floor indicate what to press to hear songs from each instrument. Even though it may seem strange to stand around a room full of silent people looking at everything from pianos to Ukrainian banduras to wind-up music boxes, you’ll be trumpeting this museum’s praises by the time your visit is over. Plus, the €6 youth price will be music to your ears.
i Admission €8, students €6; wheelchair accessible
MAGRITTE MUSEUM
Rue de la Régence 3; 25 08 32 11; www.fine-arts-museum.be/en; open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-6pm
René Magritte was either a brilliant artist who redefined what it means to paint or just a guy with the imagination of a six-year-old on psychedelics—we’re not sure which. Either way, experiencing the world’s largest collection of his works will leave you dazed and confused in the best way possible. In Magritte’s world, a bird morphs into a leaf. Candles produce dark instead of light. And a painting of a carrot turning into a bottle can be titled “The Explanation” despite explaining absolutely nothing. Remember the Mona Lisa? Yeah, Magritte has one of those too, but instead of a half smiling woman, it’s two red curtains suspended from thin air, a chunk of blue sky, and a strange white ball. This Belgian surrealist really got away with a lot.
i Admission €8, students €2; audio guide €4; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUM OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE
Rue de la Tête d’Or 9; 25 14 20 48; www.choco-story-brussels.be; open daily 10am-5pm
A museum of chocolate isn’t exactly a hard thing to sell. There are free samples. Yet even after you gorge yourself on them, it’s worth sticking around. You’ll learn about the ancient history of cocoa, like how Aztecs used cocoa beans as currency, regarding chocolate as the food of the gods. Posters with chocolate facts cover the walls, as well as decorated tins and special hot chocolate pourers. The museum traces chocolate’s appearance in Europe, too, from its status as a symbol of wealth to its dissemination amongst the masses. Don’t miss the machine where you can dip cookies into this liquid gold, or the chocolate-making demonstrations where you’ll experience first-hand how this famous Belgian treat is crafted (with more free samples of course).
i Admission €5.50, students €4.50; last entry 4:30pm; no wheelchair accessibility
BRUGES
There’s much to see in this small city, whose old architecture, fine art, quaint streets, and picturesque canals make it the perfect day trip from the area’s larger cities. At different points in its history it’s been an important harbor city, a significant European stock exchange, and a tourist attraction. (Guess which one it is now?) Its skyline is defined by the old tower of the Church of Our Lady, the belfry, and the spire of the St. Salvator Cathedral. While tourists may flock to the more well-known landmarks, dipping down lesser-known side streets can yield surprising discoveries like a second-hand book shop, a park that’s home to dozens of swans, or a scenic place for a picnic. It would be hard to have an unpleasant day in Bruges.
There’s not much orienting to be done in a town that’s more or less the size of an American Super Walmart. The belfry borders the busy square right in the center of Bruges, with the St. Salvator Cathedral and the Church of Our Lady slightly to its south. A trip to the outskirts of the city will reveal parks and other small green spaces along the canals. Outside the city center are twisting medieval streets and more affordable restaurants and bars, and a bike trip farther north to Zeebrugge will take you to the beach. To get back to Brussels or Ghent, just find the train station to the southwest.
GETTING THERE
Getting to Bruges for the day from surrounding cities is simple. Just take a quick train ride to the city’s only station. They run fairly often since it’s a popular destination. On the southwest side of the city, the station is within walking distance of the city center and main sights.
GETTING AROUND
Public transport in Bruges is largely unnecessary because of its small size. Getting around by foot is easy, but bike rental is fairly cheap and may give you a better picture of the city beyond the main squares and tourist spots.
Swing by…
BELFRY OF BRUGES
Markt 7; 05 044 87 43; www.visitbruges.be/nl/belfort; open daily 9:30am-6pm
Belfries, common in Flanders and Northern France, were celebrated as symbols of municipal autonomy in the Middle Ages. The one in Bruges is stunning, even if getting to the top of the tall tower means €8, a potentially long wait, and 366 steps. At least the wooden structure that used to rest on top of the existing belfry is no longer there, finally abandoned after a couple rounds of getting struck by lightning and burned. Live and learn, as they say. If you make it to the top of this seven-century old building you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous panoramic city views and an elevated heart rate that will delude you into thinking you did enough cardio for the day.
i Admission €10, students €8; no wheelchair accessibility
Check out…
GROENINGEMUSEUM (MUSEUM)
Dijver 12; 05 044 87 11; www.visitbruges.be/nl/groeningemuseum; open Tu-Su 9:30am-5pm
You may have seen statues of Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling around Bruges, but to see the artists’ finest work you’ll have to head to the Groeningemuseum. This museum features the largest collection of “Flemish Primitives” in the world (“primitive” as in the fifteenth and sixteenth century, not learning how to make fire and doing cave paintings). Don’t miss the Jan van Eyck masterpiece Madonna and Child with Canon Joris van der Paele. A few things to keep in mind: you can access the museum until 4:30pm but you’ll certainly want to have more than just half an hour here. In addition, if you try to go on Monday you’ll be out of luck. Guess you’ll just have to resort to the priceless Michelangelo masterpiece in the Church of Our Lady. Sigh, life is hard.
i Admission €8, students €6; last entry 4:30pm; wheelchair accessible
Grab a bite at…
SOUP ($)
Hallestraat 4; open daily 11am-3:30pm
The owner of this adorable little lunch spot must have a cat named “Cat” and a child named “Mistake” because the place’s name really leaves no question about its nature. For some warm and filling comfort food on a budget, grab one of this restaurant’s five soups with fruit—and not just those lackluster melon cups restaurants always seem to have. This €6 meal comes with bread, or pair your soup with half a panini for €8.50. A mural of rolling hills and some red-checked trays will make it feel like an indoor picnic, but to-go options are also available if you feel like riding off on your rental bike for a real one.
i Soup with bread and fruit for €6, add half panini for €8.50; cash only; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility
Don’t miss…
RENT A BIKE!
Bruges and outskirts
Bruges is small enough that you can see most of it on foot in just a day. Having a bike, however, can lead you to small and off-the-beaten-path gems you probably wouldn’t make it to on foot alone. Ride by the water at the city’s edge and spot the handful of windmills to the north. Stop in at a plant-filled, abandoned house on Botenmakersstraat (at your own risk since the house is always on the verge of collapse). Pay a visit to some friendly sheep at Hof de Jonge, or ride north to Zeebrugge’s beach. Or, get lost! Bruges is scenic everywhere! (Trust us.) There are bike rentals all around the city (for one hour, four hours, or the whole day), but make sure you ask for the student discount.
i Daily rentals typically run €6-15, places further outside the city center have better deals
OLD MASTERS MUSEUM
Rue de la Régence 3; 25 08 32 11; www.fine-arts-museum.be/en/museums/musee-oldmasters-museum; open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-6pm
The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium are dominated by the Old Masters Museum, which takes up the upper section of the museum’s great hall. The works shown here are masterpieces, and the museum offers interactive exhibits that detail the composition and meaning behind them. Particularly of note are the works of the sixteenth century Belgian painter Pieter Bruegel I, as well as those of his son Pieter the Younger. (It was quite a family business.) Here, you can see works that changed the course of Western art, and at a super cheap student price, there’s no excuse to not get #cultured.
i Admission €8, students €2, seniors €6, free on every first W of the month after 1pm; last entry 30min. before closing; wheelchair accessible
OUTDOORS
PARC DU CINQUANTENAIRE
Av. de la Joyeuse Entrée; www.brussels.info/parc-du-cinquantenaire/
Sure, Paris has that one triumphal arch. Brussels, on the other hand, has a monument consisting of not one, not two, but three arches, dedicated to glorifying Belgium’s independence. This massive structure, from which a huge Belgian flag flies, is the centerpiece of the Parc du Cinquantenaire. Behind it are a number of museums exploring everything from art to autos to the army. In front are dogs prancing, children playing, and Brussels’ corporate titans picnicking on their lunch breaks. Just watch out for the impeccably manicured gardens: you could knock a tooth out on one of those perfectly square hedges.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
FOOD
DE NOORDZEE ($)
Rue Sainte-Catherine 45; 25 13 11 92; www.vishandelnoordzee.be; open Tu-Sa 8am-6pm, Su 11am-8pm
The only way to get fish soup fresher than that of Noordzee would be to drink your own goldfish straight out of its bowl. However, we can guarantee that Noordzee’s option will be a lot tastier than poor little Goldie. This lunch spot in Place Saint-Catherine doubles as a fish market, so you know exactly where your deliciously grilled fish and expertly fried calamari come from. Eat at high standing tables in the square, with a view of Saint-Catherine Church to one side and the bustling activities of the fish sellers to the other. A filling bowl of fish soup goes for only €5, and you can pair it with a glass of wine for just another €2.75.
i Fish soup €5, other entrées from €6; gluten-free options available; wheelchair accessible
FANNY THAI ($$)
Rue Jules Van Praet 36; 25 02 64 22; www.fannythai.com; open M-F noon-3pm and 6pm-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-11:30pm
The smell that greets you upon entering Fanny Thai is essentially the equivalent of tantalizing aromatic spices having a ménage à trois in your nose. We’re convinced this is some of the best Thai food you can get outside Thailand, beating out the numerous other Thai restaurants at the fun and bustling Place Saint-Gery. The curries are warm and wonderful and the soup is full of complex flavors that will render you incapable of enjoying a can of Campbell’s ever again. Try an entree for €12-13, or upgrade to a three-course fixed menu at around €18.
i Three-course menus €18, curries and other entrées from €12; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible
BIA MARA ($$)
Rue du Marché aux Poulets 41; 25 02 00 61; www.biamara.com; open M-Th noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10:30pm, F-Su noon-10:30pm
When you think of fish and chips, you may think of greasy hunks of battered cod or British people in a sports pub. But Bia Mara does fish and chips its own way. First choose a batter, like the delicious lemon basil tempura. Next, pick from out-of-the-box sauces such as garlic truffle, thyme, or the classic tartar (they’re not entirely insane). Finally, add sides like hot ink squid or popcorn mussels and a rhubarb ginger lemonade. The fresh and flavorful fish comes with thick seaweed-salted potatoes, too.
i Fish and chips from €12; limited wheelchair accessibility
LE CORBEAU ($)
Rue Saint-Michel 18; 22 19 52 46; www.lecorbeau.be; open M-Th 10am-midnight, F-Sa 10am-4am
Le Corbeau strikes us as the kind of place that has a lot of regulars: a large screen broadcasts sports in the back of the restaurant, the drinks are cheap, and there’s a sign on the wall that says “free beer tomorrow.” Old
Hmovie and beer posters decorate the establishment and give it a vintage feel. The real draw, however, is the daily lunch special. For only €9.50, guests can have the “plat du jour,” which is an entrée, and a choice of either the daily soup or dessert.
i Lunch special €9.50; vegan and vegetarian options available
NIGHTLIFE
CAFÉ BELGA
Pl. Eugène Flagey 18; 26 40 35 08; open M-Th 7:30am-2am, F 7:30am-3am, Sa 8am-4am, Su 8am-midnight
You know that friend who never seems stressed out? They’d definitely go to Café Belga. This laid-back bar is always packed, inside and out, with beer-drinking students and young professionals pretending they don’t have work tomorrow. The wide square of Place Flagey sprawls out next to the bar, its sides bordered by weeping willows and a tall church. By night, the indoor tables are removed and the bar turns into a packed nightclub. Luckily, the free entry and €4 draft beers are there to stay.
i Beers from €3
PLACE DU LUXEMBOURG
European Quarter; hours vary by venue
This square, known affectionately as “Place Lux” or even “Plux” by its dedicated fans, completely transforms on Thursday nights. The police even block it off for some government-sanctioned tomfoolery. That’s because hundreds of young professionals from the surrounding European institutions, including the European Parliament, spill into it right after work to blow off steam. Some are even still wearing suits. Bars and clubs line the square, but if you really want to live like a local, buy some cheap beers from the convenience store down the street and claim a place in the grass. You’ll find plenty of English-speaking friends, since much of the European Quarter’s international crowd uses English at work.
i Venue prices vary; limited wheelchair accessibility
GHENT
Coverage by Emily Corrigan
Since people settled the area at the confluence of the Lys and Scheldt rivers, a long and fascinating heritage has unfolded. From a center for cloth trade during the Middle Ages, to the home of influential Flemish painters, to playing a hand in ending the War of 1812, this city has both history and modern-day appeal. Now a mid-sized northern Belgian city, Ghent boasts scenic inland waterways, old guild houses with stepped gables, a castle, and a skyline defined by the towering spires of a cathedral. It’s a charming place to visit, but seems like an even more charming place to live. Local life buzzes around you, on bikes and in waterside cafés. Toss in some niche bars, historic squares, and fascinating museums and this city has the whole package.
ORIENTATION
The waterways that first drew people to the area curve through the city, acting as a guide throughout and drawing you to many of the city’s cafés and restaurants. On the northern side of the city center, you’ll find the castle, Gravensteen, right on the water. Just south are the three buildings making up Ghent’s distinct skyline in a line from west to east: St. Nicholas’s Church, the bell tower, and St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Heading northeast from there will take you past the graffiti street and St. Jacob’s Church, just past which is the historic Vrijdagmarkt Square. Finally, outside the city center to the south is Citadelpark, the home of the city’s noteworthy art museums.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
If traveling from an international destination, Ghent is located 45min. away from the international airport, Zavantem (Brussels Airport). From there, you can take a train to Ghent. The Brussels South/Charleroi airport is located 70min. from Ghent; you can connect to Ghent via train. There are nine shuttles from Brussels South airport to Ghent’s main train station. Ghent is perhaps easiest to reach via train, as it has two main stations: the Gent-Sint-Pieters Station and Dampoort Station. Take the tram #1 from the former to reach the city center and, from the latter, hop on buses #3, 17, 18, 38, or 39.
GETTING AROUND
Buses and trams are the methods of public transportation in Ghent, although you can easily walk to everything you want to see. Purchase tickets from Linjwinkels at main bus terminals and railway stations.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Sint-Veerleplein 5; 09 266 56 60; open daily 10am-6pm
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Steendam 108 (09 269 17 20; open M-F 8:30am-5:45pm, Sa 9:30am-4:30pm)
Post Offices: Bpost (Franklin Rooseveltlaan 2; 02 201 23 45)
BGLTQ+ Resources: This website is a good link for members of the BGLTQ+ community traveling in Ghent: www.stad.gent/over-gent-en-het-stadsbestuur/stadsbestuur/wat-doet-het-bestuur/uitvoering-van-het-beleid/welzijn-gezondheid/holebis-en-transgenders
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency: 100 for ambulance; 101 for police
Police: Politie Commissariaat Gent Centrum (Belfortstraat 4; 09 226 61 11; www.lokalepolitie.be/5415)
US Embassy: The nearest US Embassy is located in Brussels (Bd. Du Régent 27, 1000 Bruxelles; 02 811 40 00; open M-F 7:30am-5:30pm)
Rape Crisis Center: RAINN (800 646 4673) and National Coalition Against Domestic Violence (303 839 1852)
Hospitals: Ghent University Hospital (De Pintelaan 185; 09 332 21 11).
Pharmacies: Small green crosses mark pharmacies. Pharmacy Denys (Kasteellan 74; 09 225 20 69; open M-F 8am-12:30pm and 2pm-6:30pm)
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOSTEL UPPELINK ($)
Sint-Michielsplein 21; 92 79 44 77; www.hosteluppelink.com; reception open 7:30am-11pm
The location of Hostel Uppelink really couldn’t be better. Right across from St. Christopher’s Church, the hostel’s sitting area and bar overlook the city’s inland waterways, an area accompanied by countless other bars and restaurants. In addition to offering Belgian beer tastings every Tuesday and Thursday (they know what the people want), the hostel also conducts free walking tours and assists with convenient kayak rentals. A word of advice: beer tastings and kayak rentals do not mix well.
i Dorms from €19; reservation required; max stay 7 nights ; limited wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels for rent; laundry €5; free breakfast
HOSTEL DE DRAECKE ($$)
Sint-Widostraat 11; 92 33 70 50; www.jeugdherbergen.be/en/youth-hostels/city-hostels/gent-de-draecke; reception open 7am-11pm
Hostel de Draecke offers the small perks that every weary traveler rejoices to see. En suite bathrooms, an included breakfast (no stale-and-hurriedly-eaten-on-the-way-to-a-landmark muffins here), and a free walking tour make you appreciate the little things in life, like not wearing flip flops in the shower. The neighborhood, right across the water from the castle, is surprisingly secluded and quiet, although all the main sights and activities of the city center are still just a stone’s throw away.
i Dorms from €23; reservation required; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; lockers available; free breakfast
SIGHTS
CULTURE
GRAFFITI STREET
Werregarenstraat; open daily 24hr
Even if your only experience with graffiti was writing “Fill in the blank was here” on some wet cement or drawing penises in your friends’ notebooks when they weren’t looking (don’t deny it, we’ve all done it), you’ll appreciate this colorful alleyway. On this small street, it’s legal for artists to paint as much as they want, and the result is a vibrant and constantly evolving public work of art. It has everything from ultra-realistic whales and giant heads to complicated signatures and messages on the floor. If you’re feeling bold, grab some spray paint and give it a go. We just hope you’ve matured past phallic symbols.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
VRIJDAGMARKT
Vrijdagmarkt; open F 7:30am-1pm, Sa 11am-6:30pm
The Vrijdagmarkt is a square surrounded by eighteenth-century guildhalls that house cafés, bars, and restaurants. However, it’s also the site of one of Ghent’s old traditions: since 1199, the square has transformed into a market on Fridays (hence its name, meaning “Friday market”). Now, there’s also a market on Saturday, but “Vrijdagenzaterdagmarkt” doesn’t have the same ring to it. After perusing the market stalls, check out the statue of Jacob van Artevelde, who was murdered at the market, and grab one of the 250 Belgian beers from the menu at Tavern Dulle Griet.
i Stand prices vary; wheelchair accessible
LANDMARKS
BELFRY OF GHENT
Sint-Baafsplein; 92 33 39 54; www.belfortgent.be; open daily 10am-6pm
The construction of Ghent’s belfry began around 1313. A visit to the bell tower today will take you through the cloth halls (relics from Ghent’s textile-trading glory days) and the hidden “secrecy room,” where a German command center was concealed with a false floor during World War II. Taking the stairs or elevator up into the tower will reveal the enormous drum and bells still used to mark the hour, as well as panoramic views of the city. This UNESCO World Heritage site also displays various dragon vanes. Try to go around the hour, when you can watch the drum rotate and ring the bells like a giant city-sized music box.
i Admission €2.70; guided tours at 3:30pm for €3; no wheelchair accessibility
GRAVENSTEEN
Sint-Veerleplein 11; 92 25 93 06; www.gravensteen.stad.gent; open daily 10am-6pm
This medieval castle has been a count’s residence, a cotton spinning mill, and the seat of the Council of Flanders. Walk along the ramparts for a stunning view of the city, and be sure to explore the dungeons and accompanying torture museum. English explanation cards offer cheery titles like “Case 5: Stabbing.” Rows of bludgeons, spiky collars, and even a guillotine will have you flinching. Nevertheless, this giant castle emerging out of the middle of a modern city is sure to impress.
i Admission €10, students €6; no wheelchair accessibility
MUSEUMS
MUSEUM VOOR SCHONE KUNSTEN (MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS)
Fernand Scribedreef 1; 92 40 07 00; www.mskgent.be; open Tu-F 9:30am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm
The museum’s centerpiece is the Ghent Altarpiece (also known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb) from the Van Eyck brothers, described by the museum as the “highlight of fifteenth-century Flemish panel painting.” Cards with English explanations are scattered throughout, detailing everything from the composition of religious paintings from the Middle Ages to the symbolism behind a tapestry collection from Brussels. Don’t miss the massive modern art installation in the center either, a piece that takes up the entire room, surrounded by water beds on which to relax and immerse yourself in the artwork.
i Admission €8, students €2; wheelchair accessible
STAM (GHENT CITY MUSEUM)
Godshuizenlaan 2; 92 67 14 00; www.stamgent.be; open daily 10am-6pm
Not many museums ask you to put on shoe covers to enter. It’s not because the staff is made up of insane neat freaks; it’s because the highlight of the museum is an enormous satellite map of the city spread across a huge floor. In the center is an astonishingly large and detailed scale model of the city center, and, throughout the museum, there are computers where visitors can click through tons of interactive exhibits about the city’s history. The museum goes all the way back to Ghent’s beginnings, demonstrating why people first settled at this relatively high point at the confluence of the Lys and Scheldt rivers.
i Admission €8, 19-25 years old €2, under 19 free; wheelchair accessible
OUTDOORS
CITADELPARK
Citadelpark; open daily 24hr
Citadelpark has historically been a site of great military defenses in Ghent. It takes its name from the citadel built here (though now demolished) by King William of the UK in 1819. Now instead of heavy fortifications, you’ll find a small waterfall, hills and caves, and even a playground (although you may be too young for children of your own and too old to play on it without getting at least a few glances from concerned parents). It’s also the home of city’s modern and fine art museums, so the park is a great place to relax and reflect on the life changing Flemish masterpiece you just saw.
i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility
FOOD
SOUP’R ($)
Sint-Niklaasstraat 9; open Tu-Sa 11am-5pm
Despite the fact that its name is a total dad joke, this restaurant serves up soups far better than that canned chicken noodle soup Dad heats up at home. A crowd clusters around the door before lunchtime waiting for the place to open up, and it’ll soon become clear as to why. The soups, ranging from Belgian classics to Thai and Vietnamese curries, are both soup’r delicious and soup’r affordable. Three sizes of soups with bread and butter can be garnished with your choice of free toppings or paired with a sandwich or salad. You may have some trouble deciphering the Dutch menu, but even if you point at something random, you’re sure to end up with piping hot and flavorful soup on the table eventually.
i Soups from €4.50; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility
GREENWAY ($$)
Nederkouter 42; 92 69 07 69; www.greenway.be; open M-Sa 11am-10pm
The name is not only indicative of the green plants covering seemingly every surface of this healthy “fast food” spot’s interior, but the vegetarian and vegan menu will also satisfy those seeking a quick green meal—even on the go. With everything from veggie burgers to salads to wraps to lasagnas, the menu is sure to accommodate diverse diets in a way that’s satisfying and flavorful. Be sure to check the specials and soups of the day for the freshest additions.
i Salads from €12, burgers from €8.90, wraps, lasagna, curry from €12; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility
SELI’S NOODLE BAR ($$)
Limburgstraat 28; 92 23 58 88; www.selinoodlebar.be; open daily noon-9:30pm
There are some things you just don’t want to see being made: sausage, cigarettes, and your brother. If you’ve never seen noodles being made, however, you need to sit inside at Seli’s and watch as their own house-made noodles are stretched, cut, and prepared. The next step is crucial: get these very same noodles in your belly. Order a big bowl of salty and delicious noodle soup, full of plenty of vegetables and your choice of meat. Sides like fresh spring rolls and gyoza are equally satisfying.
i Noodle soup from €10.50; gluten-free and vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility
NIGHTLIFE
‘T VERLOOTJE
4, Kalversteeg 2; 92 23 28 34; open daily noon-3am
Trying to describe the strange and wonderful experience of having a beer at ’t Verlootje is like Alice trying to describe Wonderland to your average Joe. You’ll be greeted on the tiny street by Lieven, the owner, identifiable by his short shorts and fuzzy beard. An eccentric man with a welcoming spirit, he’ll be happy to show you his bar-cum-house, where bikes hang from the walls and ceiling and cover just about every actual surface in sight. He even claims to have a bike from Napoleon III. Everyone at the place is encouraged to chat, get to know one another, and sign the thick guest book. It’s not uncommon for everyone to hug their new friends before they leave. So, go ahead, fall down this amazing rabbit-hole! You’ll be mad for it.
i Beers from €6; cash only; limited wheelchair accessibility
HOT CLUB GENT ($$)
Schuddevisstraatje 2; 92 56 71 99; www.hotclub.gent; open daily 3pm-3am
At a place with a name like Hot Club, you would expect to find a slightly stuffy, dark nightclub where the only thing keeping you there is the fact that you already paid a cover to get in. Yet the actual Hot Club is a classy affair, not a nightclub at all, but rather a small jazz bar with live music five nights a week named after Hot Club de France, a jazz club in Paris founded in the 30s. After dipping down a tiny unassuming alleyway, you’ll find a charming courtyard and a small stage with piano and drum set at the ready. Hot Club isn’t meant for a party; the neighborhood quiet hours begin at 10pm, and guests are asked to be silent during the concerts. Grab your 1920s hat like the jazz cat you are and spend another night drinking—except this time, culturally.
i Long drinks from €7, beers from €3; cash only; limited wheelchair accessibility; silence required during performances
BELGIUM ESSENTIALS
VISAS
Belgium is a member of the EU, meaning that citizens of Australia, New Zealand, the US, and other European countries do not need a visa for a stay up to 90 days.
MONEY
Tipping: In Belgium, service charges are included in the bill at restaurants, so there is no need to leave a tip, as waiters are paid fully for their service. If you do receive excellent service though, leaving a 5-10% tip would be appreciated. Tips in bars are uncommon and cab drivers are typically tipped 10%.
Taxes: The marked price of goods in Belgium includes a value-added tax (VAT). This tax on goods is generally levied at 21% in Belgium, although some good are subject to higher rates. Non-EU citizens who are taking these goods home unused may be refunded this tax. When making purchases, be sure to ask and fill out a VAT form and present it at a Tax-Free Shopping Office, found at most airports, borders, or ferry stations. Refunds must be claimed within six months.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Drugs and Alcohol: Belgium has fairly liberal attitudes regarding alcohol with no legal drinking age. You must be 16 to buy your own alcohol (18 for spirits), but it’s perfect legal for someone else to buy alcohol for someone under 16. Public drunkenness, however, is frowned upon. Belgium’s attitude toward even soft drugs is traditional and conservative. Marijuana is illegal and not tolerated.
