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ОглавлениеCROATIA
This is the country that gave the world both the necktie and the parachute, so unsurprisingly it’s a bit like James Bond—sexy, elegant, but not afraid to down rakija shots at 2am before going hiking, sailing, and cliff jumping the next morning. Plus, a location smack dab in the middle of Europe means that Croatia combines everything we like about the western and eastern halves of the continent, not to mention easy access to major European cities. It’s a place where you can go out with friends for pizza before belting out Croatian pop hits at a locals-only club or lounge on one of its many island like you’re ballin’ at St. Tropez, but instead on a Balkan budget.
Don’t be fooled by the country’s communist past: while less than 30 years ago Croatia was a key part of Yugoslavia, the scars of communism and the subsequent wars of independence seem to be almost repaired. Traveling across Croatia you’ll see that the country’s L-shape creates two distinct sides: the coast and the hinterland. Zagreb falls in the latter category, showing strong influence from Austria in both its architecture and cuisine. Here you’ll see churches with onion domes and try gastronomic specialties such as štrukli, a savory version of baked strudel with cheese. The coast, however, historically had stronger connections with Italy, so brace yourself for Roman ruins, seafood, and risotto galore. And the best part: though Croatia is well-established as a tourist destination, its location in the Balkans translates to ideal prices. Oh, and did we mention the islands? Croatia’s got over 1000 of 'em. So take your pick: Hvar-ever you like it, there’s an island for that. Welcome to budget-traveler heaven. Cliff jump in Split, appreciate the art of Ivan Meštrović in galleries across the country, and sip ridiculously good coffee in one of Zagreb’s ubiquitous cafés. And remember, you can’t spell formerly part of Yugoslavia without U, so make sure you catch yourself along those Instagram jealousy inducing, pristine, and party-filled coastlines. Živjeli, my friends.
DUBROVNIK
Coverage by Gavin Moulton
Your grandma loves Dubrovnik. Your second cousin twice-removed won’t shut up about his trip here. Your ex-girlfriend’s uncle’s stepfather’s in-laws are still posting photos on Facebook from their time in the city. What’s with the all the hype? Dubrovnik is drop-dead gorgeous. After just one day, you’ll start looking up study-abroad options and figuring out how to get a work visa until you can become a citizen. There are beaches, bars, Baroque architecture, and those are the only b’s we need besides beautiful babes. Prices in the city are more expensive, but cheap supermarkets, ice cream shops, and bakeries make budget life bearable. Outside of the old town there are plenty of outdoor activities: climbing Mt. Srd is a definite favorite. But, let’s be real, you came here for the coast—so pack your suntan lotion, it’s Croatian Riviera time.
ORIENTATION
Dubrovnik is located on a peninsula jutting into the Adriatic Sea. It’s surrounded by massive medieval walls, so the only entrances to the Old Town are through the city gates. The main ones are the Pile (west side) and Ploce (east side) gates. The bus station and port are located a 20-minute bus ride to the west of the city and the airport is 30 minutes to the south. The main street is the Stradun, but the rest of the city is dominated by narrow alleyways and stairs, punctuated with the occasional piazza. The city center is walkable, and public transit is only needed for daytrips or rides to the airport. The airport shuttle shop is next to the cable car station, and tickets are 30-40 kn.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Both international and domestic airlines land at Dubrovnik Airport. For budget prices, look at carriers such as Norwegian, Croatia Airlines, and Easyjet. You can also get to Dubrovnik by ferries from Bari, Italy or from neighboring Croatian islands.
GETTING AROUND
Dubrovnik’s Old Town is small and easily navigable by foot. You will most likely not be staying in the Old Town, but 99% of what’s interesting in Dubrovnik is located there. Buses regularly connect the various parts of Dubrovnik to the Old Town; if you exit the Pile Gate, you’ll find a major hub for buses. Pro tip: if you’re staying outside the city, walk to the Old Town and take a bus home (otherwise, you’ll likely be walking uphill).
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Turisticka Zajedica Grada Dubrovnika (Brsalje ul. 5; 20 323 887)
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Addiko Bank-Poslovnica Dubrovnik (Vukovarska ul. 15; 1 603 000)
Post Offices: Hrvatska pošta (Široka ul. 8; 20 362 842; open daily 24hr).
Internet: There are a lot of cafés, but few public spots, with Wi-Fi available in Dubrovnik.
BGLTQ+ Resources: A good resource for members of the BGLTQ+ community is www.gaywelcome.com/gay-dubrovnik.php.
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112
Police: Dubrovnik Police Department (Ul. Dr. Ante Starčevića 13; 20 443 777).
US Embassy: The US Embassy in Croatia is located in Zagreb (Ul. Thomasa Jeffersona 2; 1 661 2200; open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm)
Hospitals: Opca bolnica Dubrovnik (Dr. Roka Mišetića 2; 20 431 777; open daily 24hr)
Pharmacies: Ljekarn (Ul. Mata Vodopića 30)
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOSTEL AND ROOMS ANA ($)
Kovacka Ul. 4; 098 674 188; reception open daily 8am-1am
“Communal” can only begin to describe the vibe at Hostel and Rooms Ana. An inordinate number of people squeeze into what essentially amounts to the attic that Ana inhabits with her son. But don’t judge a book by its cover: the close quarters build community. Or, on second thought, it might be the free alcohol that Ana provides. Regardless, a night spent around the wooden table drinking homemade rakija with newfound friends is reason enough to stay here.
i Dorms 185 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; kitchen available
HOSTEL CITY WALLS ($$)
Svetog Simuna 15; 917 992 086; www.citywallshostel.com; reception open 8am-10pm
Bright blue walls await you at this hostel located next to the old city walls. A far walk from both the attractions of downtown as well as the Ploce and Pile gates, the hostel is typical of Dubrovnik options. The rooms are overpriced, but we all need a place to crash, we guess—probably a better plan than sleeping in a public park to the west of town to save money. For all it’s worth, though, the lobby is a nice space to hang out.
i Dorms from 245 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi
OLD TOWN HOSTEL ($$$)
Ul. od Sigurate 7; 20 322 007; www.dubrovnikoldtownhostel.com; reception open 8am-11pm
Sometimes you splurge unnecessarily. Sometimes you splurge on basic necessities. Old Town Hostel fits into the latter category. This place is kind of like paying extra for organic milk when it tastes exactly the same as the pumped-full-of-artificial-hormones full-fat store brand. But at least the Old Town location is ideal and the exposed stone walls and wooden floors are a nice touch. Console yourself for overpaying while gorging yourself on the free breakfast.
i Dorms from 300 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; breakfast included
SIGHTS
CULTURE
LAZARETI
Ul. Frana Supila 1
In order to prevent the spread of disease, the Lazareti was established as a quarantine for foreigners and goods passing through the city. Today, the complex has been converted into a restaurant, several shops, and a nightclub. Pro tip: for one of the best (read: most romantic) views of the city, head down the staircase in the middle to the rocks by the water.
i Prices vary; limited wheelchair accessibility
STRADUN
Stradun; open daily 24hr
This is the street in Dubrovnik. See and be seen on this expensive and tourist-infested stretch of stone-paved glory that crosses town to connect the Ploče and Pile gates. On the Pile side is Onofrio’s Fountain, one of the city’s most important landmarks (with potable water!). The street is flanked on the other end by the City Hall Bell Tower, which is home to two sculpted copper boys who strike the bells every hour.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
LANDMARKS
CITY WALLS
Gunduliceva Poljana 2; 020 324 641; open daily Jan 1-Feb 28 10am-3pm, Mar 1-Mar 31 9am-3pm, Apr 1-May 31 9am-6:30pm, June 1-July 31 8am-7:30pm, Aug 1-Sept 15 8am-7pm, Sept 15-Oct 31 9am-6pm, Nov 1-Dec 31 9am-3pm
From the window to the two-kilometer walls, there is plenty of walking to do here. Forget swashbuckling pirates or armies though; these days the walls only protect Dubrovnik against thousands of cruise-ship tourists. There’s really nowhere else in Europe like this. The city walls are still almost entirely intact, completely encircling the city. With the number of steps, if you don’t bring water you’ll surely die—if not from dehydration, then from the absurd prices that the bars in the walls charge.
i Admission 20 kn; no wheelchair accessibility
CATHEDRAL OF DUBROVNIK
Ul. kneza Damjana Jude 1; open Apr 4-Nov 1 M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 11am-5pm, winter M-Sa 10am-noon and 3pm-5pm, Su 11am-noon and 3pm-5pm
While you won’t see Sean Connery or Robin Hood, the Cathedral of Dubrovnik was founded by Richard the Lionheart himself, according to legend. Whether or not you believe in the legend, however, the since-renovated cathedral is a must-see sight in Dubrovnik due to the Titian polyptych located above the main altar. The church was constructed in Baroque style and occupies a prominent place with piazzas on three sides. At night, the illuminated dome of the church is particularly beautiful.
i Free
CHURCH OF ST. IGNATIUS
Poljana Rudera Boškovića 7; 020 323 500; open daily 8am-7pm
As any Georgetown student will tell you, the Jesuits don’t mess around. So, it’s not really a surprise that their church occupies one of the most prominent vantage points in the Old City. The church is based on earlier Jesuit churches in Rome, but we can forgive the plagiarism for the innovative Lourdes Grotto. To us heathens, that basically means there’s a manmade cave with a statue of the Virgin Mary that was built in the late seventeenth century.
i Free
FORT LOVRIJENAC
Ul. od Tabakarije 29; open daily 8am-7pm
This is the sans-CGI Red Keep from Game of Thrones, and it might be a bit less impressive than the show. But it’s also less expensive than the City Walls, and the views are not to be missed. There is a small internal courtyard with three stories worth of steps, cannons, and ramparts. Beware that if you stay past closing time, you will get locked inside (we speak from experience). After closing time, the steps outside make a nice spot for a BYO drink.
i Admission 50 kn; no wheelchair accessibility
MUSEUMS
DOMINICAN MUSEUM
Ul. Svetog Dominika 4; open daily summer 9am-6pm, winter 9am-5pm
Slightly more off the beaten path than the Franciscan Pharmacy is the
Dominican Monastery, home to the best religious art collection in Dubrovnik. The church is currently closed to the public, as it is undergoing renovations, but the small museum with a Titian painting of St. Mary Magdalene makes up for the church’s closing. Smack dab in the center of it all is the cloister, objectively the most beautiful in the city.
i Admission 30 kn, students 20 kn
AQUARIUM
Kneza Damjana Jude 12; 020 0323 978; open daily 9am-8pm
Sure, you’ve been to aquariums before. Sure, you’ve been to medieval towers before. Sure, you’ve been to modern art museums before. But have you been to a combination of all three? That’s right, you haven’t. Painfully fork over that 60 kn and saunter through this pretty piscatorial place. What the museum lacks in size, it makes up for in ambience. The stone walls are impressive, especially with the projections and reflections of the water. Be sure to say “hi” to the dancing octopus and sea turtles for us. We miss them already.
i Admission 60 kn
FRANCISCAN MONASTERY AND PHARMACY
Placa 2; open daily summer 9am-6pm, winter 9am-5pm
This is the seventeenth-century version of CVS. Forget endless aisles and industrial fluorescent lighting, and instead think of painted majolica jars and homemade remedies. But this isn’t your average old pharmacy. If that’s what you’re looking for, you can stop next door at the functioning pharmacy that the Franciscans continue to run. The main attraction of the complex, however, is the cloister. Columns topped with Gothic quatrefoils stand in the picturesque setting. Rooms leading off the cloister feature religious art from the history of the complex.
i Admission 30 kn, reduced 15 kn
MUSEUM OF MODERN ART DUBROVNIK
Put Frana Supila 23; 020 426 590; open Tu-Su 9am-8pm
Take me to the beach beach let’s go get away way, to the Museum of Modern Art which is conveniently located above Banje Beach. Situated in an old palace, the museum is dedicated to nineteenth-century and contemporary art from the Dubrovnik area, which means you won’t know anyone or anything here. Jury’s still out on whether English language descriptions would help with understanding the abstract art that dominates the museum. Regardless, the terrace is easier to appreciate with its stunning views of Old Town and a few sculptures by our homeboy, Ivan Meštrović.
i Admission 20 kn
OUTDOORS
MT. SRĐ
Ul. kralja Petra Krešimira IV; 020 414 355; www.dubrovnikcablecar.com; open daily Jan 9am-4pm, Feb-Mar 9am-5pm, Apr 9am-8pm, May 9am-9pm, June-Aug 9am-midnight, Sept 9am-10pm, Oct 9am-8pm, Nov 9am-5pm, Dec 9am-4pm
Beached out? Hike Mt. Srd, the giant hunk of rock located just behind the city. There’s a cable car that goes to the top, but we recommend buying a one-way ticket and hiking the way down. The cable car company purposefully doesn’t mark the mountain trail—attempting to scheme you into a roundtrip ticket. So insider tip, find the path behind the concrete fort, located just west of the top cable car station, if you want to avoid paying for the trip down. The view from the top of the mountain does not disappoint. On a clear day, you can see Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. You might not be able to check them off your bucket list, but at least you saw them.
i Round-trip 130 kn, one-way 80 kn, children under 4 free; limited wheelchair accessibility
BANJE BEACH
Ul. Frana Supila 10
Go east, young man! Fulfill your Dubrovnik version of Manifest Destiny by claiming a spot at Banje Beach. For the real homesteaders out there, the eastern part of the beach is free. The beach has great views of Dubrovnik, but then again, where doesn’t? It’s an easy five-minute walk to the east of the city.
i Free; beach chair rental 100 kn
LOKRUM ISLAND
Lokrum Island
Lokrum Island seems like an ideal romantic getaway with its heart shaped gardens and azure waters. That is, until middle-aged tourists start mimicking the peacocks that roam freely on the island. If you can overcome those terrifying, soul-crushing sounds, trek over from the small harbor to the old Benedictine Monastery. Legend has it that when the monks were kicked off the island, they left a curse on all those who come to Lokrum to seek pleasure. So instead, come as a Game of Thrones pilgrim to see an exact copy of the Iron Throne located in the visitors’ center. On the top of the island is an old fort with panoramic views.
i Round-trip ferry 120 kn, island entrance 90 kn with self-provided transportation; last ferry departs at 7pm; limited wheelchair accessibility
KOTOR
Thought Europe’s only fjords were located in Norway? Think again. Montenegro is home to one of ‘em. And boy, it is pretty grand. Kotor is located on the eastern part of the fjord’s interior. For centuries, this was an important port town in the conflict between the Venetians and Ottomans. Although not caught between those empires anymore, Montenegro is at the crossroads of Russia and Europe. In the summer months, you’ll quickly notice the many Russian tourists, on vacation from their miserable sunless country for the near constant sunshine and glorious beaches. Aside from gawking at the worst sunburns this side of Vladivostok, there are walls to climb, orthodox icon screens to admire, and plenty of places to take a dip in the clear waters. Welcome to the Russian Riviera.
Kotor is a triangle-shaped town hypotenused against Sveti Ivan (St. John’s) mountain, smack dab on top of which is the town’s fortress. To the north of the historic center is the Škurda River, which feels like a moat due to Kotor’s massive walls. Continuing north is a small beach and large modern shopping center. Southwards is a small inlet of the Bay of Kotor. The cruise ship terminal where many tourists arrive is located due west from downtown. The historic center is quite small with minimal streets and piazzas—you can get lost but it is easy to reorient yourself based on the tall cathedral towers, mountain, and city walls.
GETTING THERE
Getting to Kotor from Dubrovnik is fairly easy. The approximately two-hour bus ride runs at just €15. Book a bus ticket after looking at the schedule at the Dubrovnik Bus Station.
GETTING AROUND
Kotor itself is small and best navigated on foot. Cars cannot get into the old town regions, although some golf carts are used as taxis or city tour transportation devices. Renting a bike is also a viable option for navigating your way around the city.
Swing by…
CATHEDRAL OF ST. TRYPHON
Pjaca Sv. Tripuna
Romanesque to the bone, or baptistery rather, this is the largest church in the city. Historically, Kotor had a mostly Catholic population and this is still an operational Catholic church. Due to the large influx of Orthodox Christians in the city, however, several of the city’s other churches have since converted. Immediately after entering the cathedral, take note of the remaining frescoes on the soffit of the arches. Admission to the cathedral museum, located beyond the left side aisle, is included in admission to the church. Climb the steps to the small reliquary chapel, the most evocative spot in the cathedral.
i Admission €2.50; limited wheelchair accessibility
Check out…
FORTIFICATIONS
Put do Svetog Ivana; open daily 24hr
“City walls” fails to describe the straight-up-the-face-of-a-mountain fortifications that protected the city of Kotor for centuries. We’re not quite sure how horses and soldiers made their way up the steep grades of the mountain, because it’s near impossible to walk straight up the switchbacks without using the steps on the side. Should you survive, halfway up the mountain lies a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. You’ll need divine help to hike all the way up to the fortress at the top, where there are even better views of the surrounding mountains. Be sure to bring water—midday can get quite hot in the summer.
i Admission €3; no wheelchair accessibility
Grab a bite at…
BOKUN ($)
Ul. 1; 69 290 019; open daily winter 8am-11pm, summer 8am-1am
Many people come here for the live music, the exposed stone walls, or the wine. We come here for the sandwiches. Hold the jazz, please, we want the arugula and prosciutto goodness served on a wooden platter. Prices are reasonable and there is plenty of seating both outside and in the trendy interior. The sandwiches themselves are not only delicious, but also made for Instagram. Make all your followers jealous and add a splash of food from Bokun to your feed.
i Sandwiches from €4.50
Don’t miss…
MARITIME MUSEUM
Trg Bokeljske Mornarice 391; 32 304 720; www.museummaritimum.com; open Apr 15-July 1 M-F 8am-6pm, Su 9am-1pm; July 1-Sept 1 M-F 8am-11pm, Su 10am-4pm; Sept 1-Oct 15 M-F 8am-6pm, Su 9am-1pm; Oct 15-Apr 15 M-F 9am-5pm, Su 9am-noon
This ain’t Seaworld. We’re at the Maritime Museum, that’s as real as it gets. While T-Pain might not agree with our evaluation of the museums of Kotor, this is the place to go for model ships (or model boats rather). There are old naval uniforms, trade documents from Venetian times, and maps on maps on maps. Many of the written documents seen here would commonly be housed in archives in other cities; it’s neat to look at them up close. For the landlubbers out there, the nineteenth-century rooms of a noble family may be easier to appreciate.
i Adult €4, students €1, children €1.50
FOOD
TRATTORIA CAPRICCIO ($$$)
Ul. Kneza Damjana Jude; 020 454 433; open daily 11am-midnight
Should you happen to be in Dubrovnik with your girlfriend’s grandparents and want to pull off that sophisticated-man-of-the-world charm, look no further than Trattoria Capriccio. Run by a husband-and-wife team, the trattoria specializes in Italian food sourced entirely from local merchants and made fresh in the kitchen. The results do not disappoint. This place will impress your future in-laws enough for them to love you more even than your girlfriend. The prices are a bargain for the quality of food you’ll eat, but considerably more than standard backpacker fare.
i Entrées from 100 kn
DOLCE VITA ($)
Nalješkovićeva 1a; 989 449 951; open daily 9am-midnight
While you can’t live the suite life in your hostel dorms, enjoy the sweet life at this combo crêpe and ice cream parlor. The 10 kn prices are lower than the Dubrovnik average for a scoop and trust us, there was a thorough investigation (we may or may not have spent the equivalent of $100 on various ice cream retailers in the area). While we cannot not condone consumption of the crêpes (which are typical of the overly sweet varieties usually served in trendy places in eastern Europe), if you’re into that kind of thing, you can find it here, too.
i Scoops from 10 kn
RESTAURANT KOPUN ($$$)
Poljana Rudera Boskovica 7; 020 323 969; www.restaurantkopun.com; open daily 11am-midnight
We’re not joking, castrated rooster is quite literally the specialty of this place. How do we feel about it? Tastes like chicken. After a trip to Europe, you can out-gastronome all your friends with your adventurous new palate. (For major props, tell them you castrated the rooster yourself.) Travel is all about new experiences; this one is for the brave. If you need to convince a friend to come with you, they can order other milder local specialties such as risotto or various seafood options.
i Entrées from 100 kn
TAJ MAHAL ($$)
Nikole Gucetica 2; 020 323 221; www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com; open daily 9am-1am
Forget India and instead take a culinary trip to neighboring Bosnia, the kind of cuisine that Taj Mahal actually specializes in. After all the fish options that are typical of the Croatian coast, these massive meat platters are a welcome relief for carnivorous backpackers. While the prices are average, the portion sizes are not. Bowls of fresh-out-of-the-oven bread accompany dishes with plenty of hearty sides such as kumpir, or traditional stuffed potatoes. Other options include shish kebabs and pljeskavica, which is essentially a hamburger without the bun that’s large enough to satisfy all of your homesickness for America.
i Entrées from 90 kn, soups from 45 kn, beer from 35 kn; reservation recommended
NIGHTLIFE
DODO BEACH BAR
Od Kolorine; 914 432 826
Don’t try this at home kids: Dodo replaces bar stools with swings. Although alcohol and swings make for an unsettling combination, what really puts this place over the edge is its cliffside location above a beach. The views are drop-dead gorgeous: just don’t fall over the edge or you might actually drop dead. For those late nights, Dodo has toast sandwiches, perfect for attempting to stop a hangover before it starts. And in the Balkans, that’s probably a good idea.
i Cocktails from 60 kn, shots from 30 kn, sandwiches from 35 kn; no wheelchair accessibility
BUZZ BAR
Prijeko 21; 020 321 025; open daily 8am-2am
No bees here, the buzz at this bar is fueled by alcohol. And why not? With quotes on the wall from Ernest Hemingway convincing you to drink, there’s no reason not to imbibe (not that we really needed one in the first place). After all the tourist places on the Stradun, the lowkey vibes and soccer matches on the TV give this bar a homier feel. While no place in Dubrovnik is truly a local joint, this is about as close as it gets.
i Cocktails from 5 kn
CULTURE CLUB REVELIN
Svetog Dominika 3; 020 436 010; www.clubrevelin.com; open daily 11pm-6am
There’s nothing cultured in this club: not even its medieval tower location can make up for the stripper poles and dancing cages. That said, not too many fortifications get lit like the Revelin does. Expect giant glowing balls hanging from the ceiling, roaming photographers, and working your way through massive drunk crowds on the smoky dance floor—that is, if you can afford the hefty cover fee or sneak your way in through the glitzy VIP entrance.
i Cover 130 kn, beer from 35 kn
SKYBAR NIGHTCLUB
Ul. Marojice Kaboge 1; 914 202 094; open daily 10pm-6pm
Walking the stairs down into Skybar Nightclub is a bit like descending through Dante’s layers of hell. The levels gradually shift from semi-chill hang-out spaces to the final floor where you’ll physically feel the bass speaker five feet over your head send shock waves pulsing through your
body. Drinks are expensive, but the location outside the Pile gate is easily accessible. Best to drink before coming to this place, not just to save money, but also to forget about the night the next day.
i Cover 30 kn, prices vary nightly; no wheelchair accessibility
HVAR
Coverage by Gavin Moulton
Hvar are you doing today? Let’s be real, you’d probably be better off in Hvar. At least, that’s the mentality of the celebrities, bohemian backpackers, and jet-set elites who vacation here. All that money and energy means that Hvar has the wildest nightlife anywhere on the Adriatic coast. For those rare moments when you’re sober, there’s plenty of other stuff to do too, with all of Hvar’s beaches and sea caves. And even if you’re not the adventurous type, the Venetian architecture and year-round sun make this a nice place to just relax. Hvar is the holiday destination of Croatia.
ORIENTATION
Hvar Town is the largest tourist destination on the island of Hvar, which consists of other cities such as Stari Grad. The central point of the city is the Pjaca, the main square. The square marks the location of the eighteenth-century St. Stephen’s Cathedral of Hvar. This is pretty hard to miss and, if you don’t see it, you’re really not looking. The Riva area, which is near the coast and the location of much of the nightlife in Hvar, can be found west of the Pjaca. If you’re looking to do more sightseeing, the Franciscan Monastery is south of the Pjaca and the Fortica Španjola is north.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
If traveling internationally, the closest international airports are in Split and Dubrovnik. From there, you’ll need to take additional transportation to Hvar via ferry. You can take a ferry from Split or a cross-island ferry from Korcula, Vis, or Brac to get to Hvar. There is also an international ferry line that runs from Italy that stops in Hvar. Most ferries will dock at Stari Grad, from which you’ll have to take a 20min. bus to Hvar Town.
GETTING AROUND
Hvar Town is pretty small and easily walkable, so you won’t need to worry about using public transportation or taxis. To get to other cities on the island, there are buses to connect you. The bus to Stari Grad is a 20min. ride.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Main tourist office (Trg. Svetog Stepana 42; 021 741 059; www.tzhvar.hr; open July-Aug daily 8am-2pm and 3pm-9pm)
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Privredna Banka (Fabrikia b.b.; 021 421 413; open M-F 9am-2pm, Sa 9am-noon)
Post Offices: Hrvatska pošta (Riva b.b.; 021 742 588)
Internet: The tourist office offers free Wi-Fi in Hvar, but otherwise, your best bet is accommodations.
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112
Police: Police headquarters (Ive Milicica 5; 021 504 239; www.splitsko-dalmatinska.policija.hr)
US Embassy: The nearest US Embassy is located in Croatia’s capital, Zagreb (Ul. Thomassa Jeffersona 2; 016 612 200; open M-F 8am-4:30pm).
Hospitals: Health Center Hvar (Ul. biskupa Jurja Dubokovica 3)
Pharmacies: Ljakarna Lakoš-Marušic (Trg. Sv. Stjepana 18; 021 741 002).
ACCOMMODATIONS
EARTHERS HOSTEL ($)
11 Martina Vucetica; 099 267 9889; reception open 24hr
Earthers Hostel is what happens when a location 15min. outside of town forces its guests to bond with each other. The result borders on a cult: Earthers has a strong community vibe and a stunning garden terrace, with a view to boot. Oh, and did we mention the hammocks? Kick back after a long day of sightseeing in one of these babies. For your more practical needs, unlike the other hostels in Hvar, Earther’s has in-house washing and a drying rack.
i Dorms from 100 kn, privates from 350 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; luggage storage; linens included; towels included; laundry facilities
HOSTEL MARINERO ($)
Sveti Marak 9; 091 410 2751; reception open 9am-1am
The rooms are new and clean; some even have in-suite bathrooms (gasp). The dark secret of Hostel Marinero, though, is that the only common space is the stairs that they put pillows on. Be warned, if you come here with a big backpack you may accidentally knock out a fellow traveler who is j-chilling on the steps.
i Dorms from 100 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; luggage storage
WHITE RABBIT HOSTEL ($)
Stjepana Papafave 6; 021 717 365; reception open 24hr
You don’t need a rabbit foot to be lucky at White Rabbit Hostel. Wacky name aside, the rooms are clean and showers have good water pressure, and that’s about all we ask for. The rooftop bar is a nice gathering space for “interaction with fellow travelers” (i.e. drinking games), except the roof closes at 11pm due to the hostel’s location in central Hvar’s residential area. It’s not a terrible trade-off for White Rabbit’s proximity to all Hvar has to offer.
i Dorms from 100 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; luggage storage; meals available
CULTURE
ARSENAL
Trg Sv. Stjepana; hours vary by show
Located on the main square of Hvar, there’s not much one can do here besides take a selfie. In its heyday, Hvar’s Arsenal was used to service the Venetian navy before being converted into a theater. Times have changed, though, and now the building itself is under renovation. But its location on the terrace right by the water makes this a nice place to chill with gelato and enjoy views of Hvar.
i Show ticket prices vary; wheelchair accessible
RUINS OF ST. MARK’S CHURCH
Trg Sv. Stjepana
Although it’s apparently too dangerous to enter the church itself, the guardian may be kind enough to let you into the courtyard outside the church, which houses old graves. Not your typical graveyard, the space feels ethereal with palm trees, marble tombstones, and old stone pavement. If you don’t catch such a stroke of luck and nothing is open, hop on up the steps to the concrete walkway with stellar views of the church bell tower and Hvar Town.
i Free; no wheelchair accessibility
LANDMARKS
FORTICA ŠPANJOLA
Ul. Higijenickog Društva; 021 741 816; open daily 8am-9pm
Forget romantic sunset pictures on the beach: Fortica Španjola is the place to go. This fortress protected Hvar over the centuries of rule by the Byzantines, Venetians, and French, just to name a few. While it’s a bit of hike to get up here (read: stairs galore), the views make it all worth it and your legs will thank you for the unintended workout later. If you don’t feel like paying for the fortress itself, you can always walk around below, where the views are still stunning. We recommend visiting the fortress right at sunset, so you can watch Hvar glow when the pink rays hit the tan stone.
i Admission 40 kn; no wheelchair accessibility
ST. STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL OF HVAR
Trg Sv. Stjepana; 099 576 3019; open 9am-noon, 4pm-6pm
It’s impossible to miss the Cathedral of Hvar, as it lies on the main piazza and dominates the city’s skyline. The white stone façade is typical of Dalmatian churches and dates from the late Renaissance. The church is dedicated to St. Stephen, who is unsurprisingly the patron saint of Hvar. Expect to see artwork inside created by Venetian artists who worked on the cathedral when Hvar was part of the Republic.
i Admission 10 kn; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUMS
BENEDICTINE CONVENT AND HANIAL LUCIC MUSEUM
Kroz Grodu bb; 021 741 052; open M-Sa 10am-midnight
Your vegan friends know agave syrup as a healthy alternative to sugar. Our cloistered Benedictine nun friends have been using agave to make lace for hundreds of years. This method of lace production is unique to Hvar. In a small part of the nun’s convent is a museum that displays examples of agave lace as well as artwork and artifacts from the history of the convent itself.
i Admission 10 kn
FRANCISCAN CHURCH AND MONASTERY MUSEUM
Šetalište put 13; 021 741 193; church open daily 24hr, museum open M-Sa 9am-3pm and 5pm-9pm
The world’s most famous Last Supper may be in Milan, but Hvar’s own rendition in the old refectory of the Franciscan Monastery is nothing to scoff at. Inside, there is a small cloister with the church entrance on the right. The church is an agglomeration of different styles with both Baroque and Gothic influences. For more artwork and Roman artifacts, the museum has a medium-sized collection. Don’t miss the massive Last Supper painting and the works by none other than Ivan Meštrović.
i Church admission free, museum admission 35 kn; limited wheelchair accessibility
STARI GRAD
If your World War II history is a little mixed up, let us set the record straight for you. Stari Grad is not Stalingrad. The only battles waged here are wealthy French tourists competing over a bill at a restaurant. This is the type of town where wine is served by the liter over dinners that last long into the night. It’s where the lowkey yachters and upper-middle-class Western European tourists come to get away from the hubbub of their real lives. They’re attracted like moths to a light to the historic architecture, relaxed nightlife, and plentiful vineyards, but in numbers much less than neighboring Hvar. So don your striped sailor shirt and do as the yachters do: visit the many breathtaking churches, bike through Ancient Greek vineyards, and stroll along the stone corniche.
GETTING THERE
Stari Grad is on the island of Hvar, which is commonly reached by boats. The Port of Stari Grad is the largest island port on Hvar and is not far from Stari Grad itself. It receives frequent ferries from Split. If you are traveling to Stari Grad from Hvar, you can also take a 20min. bus.
GETTING AROUND
Stari Grad is best explored by foot and you can easily walk to all of the town’s sites on foot. The town is situated at the end of an inlet and has characteristically narrow streets.
Swing by…
DOMINICAN MONASTERY OF ST. PETER THE MARTYR
Ul. kod Svetog Petra 1P; open daily 9:30am-12:30pm and 4pm-6:30pm
Art history nerds should know two things about Tintoretto: he was Venetian and he’s famous. How did one of his paintings end up in this obscure Dominican monastery on a remote Croatian island? Well, a few centuries back this part of the world used to be controlled by Venice under the rule of the Doge (and most definitely not by a doggo or pupper). Beyond Tintoretto’s Pietà, the church and courtyard of the monastery are beautiful, complete with flower-covered columns and arches. The museum, included with admission, lacks significant English descriptions, but displays important Greek and Roman artifacts from the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site, Stari Grad Plain.
i Admission to church and museum 20 kn
Check out…
TVRDALJ CASTLE
Priko b.b.; 922252391; open daily 10am-7pm
Tvrdalj Castle is an innovative take on the cliché rich-people-building-whimsical-castles theme. We expected lots of Renaissance faire kitsch, but were instead rewarded with the melodious poetry of Petar Hektorović and an ethereal fish pond. Without a doubt, ten minutes in this fifteenth-century palace will turn you into a true Andrea Bocelli-loving troubadour ready to sing longingly about your days in this most beautiful of Croatian villas. But we’re warning you: inspired locals and travelers alike have written many a poem about this place, so the bar is pretty high.
i Admission 15 kn
Grab a bite at…
CAFÉ BAR ANTIKA ($)
Donja Kola 34; 021 765 479; open daily Feb-Oct noon-3pm and 6pm-1am
Tucked in a side street near the main square, Antika is everything you’d expect from a restaurant in a town called “Old Town.” Vintage pepper mills, traditional foods, and plenty of wine are exactly what you’ll get here. Grab a wooden menu and squeeze into the dining room or sit outside and enjoy the company of smokers on wooden benches. The offerings are similar to most restaurants in Dalmatia with fish, meat, and pasta.
i Starters from 25 kn, entrées from 80 kn
Don’t miss…
STARI GRAD PLAIN
Open daily 24hr
It’s all Greek to me—at least at Stari Grad Plain, that is. After creating the first settlement at Stari Grad (Pharos), the Greeks divided up the nearby fields into small family plots that have been used continuously for 24 centuries. Within the fields, there is a grid system of roads and dirt trails that connect chapels and ancient ruins that makes hiking or biking easy. Alternatively, you could check out the village of Doland and the Church of St. Michael Archangel for a view of the entire plain. Bike rentals start at 60 kn for half a day. A detailed guide to the ruins and sights of the plain is available from the tourist office.
i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility; bike rentals from 60 kn
Top it off at…
EREMITAŽ ($)
Obala hrvatskih branitelja 2; open daily noon-3pm and 6pm-midnight
With the best waterfront views in town and a location in a sixteenth-century hermitage, we’re unsure how Eremitaž stays in business with entrees starting at 80 kn. But when something’s good, don’t question it. Eremitaž is across from the main part of town and a relaxing walk (or dare we suggest, Vespa ride) will get you there in 10 minutes (or less…we didn’t actually take a Vespa).
i Starters from 25 kn, entrées from 80 kn
OUTDOORS
HVAR’S BEACHES
Open daily 24hr
Walking to east of the Riva, past the ferry landing, you’ll find a small pebble beach. If you continue to walk east, there are plenty of rocks and ladders that make swimming and sun-tanning effortless. Another option is to take the 40 kn water taxi to one of the beaches on the Pakleni Islands. But why pay, when the water is just as crystal clear in Hvar?
i Beach entry free; water taxi 40 kn; limited wheelchair accessibility
FOOD
MIZAROLA ($)
Vinka Pribojevica 2; 098 799 978; open daily 11am-11pm
Eating on a budget in Hvar is hard. Eating good food on a budget is damn near impossible. Fortunately, Mizarola is here to help with 55 kn pizzas and 80 kn pastas, which makes it as friendly to the wallet as it is to the stomach. But don’t get us wrong: we’d come here even if the prices were the same as the rest of Hvar. The terrace is next to the red-tiled roof of an old chapel and the food is blissfully well-seasoned. Plus, the servers are genuinely nice human beings.
i Pizza from 55 kn, pasta from 80 kn, other entrées from 90 kn; vegetarian options available
ALVIŽ ($)
Dolac 2; 021 742 797; www.hvar-alviz.com; open M-F 6pm-midnight, Sa-Su 6pm-1am
Is the secret to Alviž’s pizzas in the tomato garden on the terrace? Years of experience? The local water? We’ll never know, but we do know that they quickly churn out pies straight from the oven. Plus, at low prices, it’s a sweet relief from the higher priced seafood and meat that most Hvar Town digs serve. If you’re not feeling pizza tonight, there are plenty of savory entrées at similar prices, such as vegetable risotto and mussels alla Buzara.
i Entrées from 70 kn, pizza from 50 kn; vegetarian options available
GURME TAPAS BAR ($$$)
Ul. Marije Maričić br. 9 predio Groda; 098 192 4150; open daily 6pm-midnight
Traditional yet cool and trendy, Gurme is kind of like the Justin Trudeau of Croatian tapas bars. Sleek bar lights hang next to legs of ham and antique horseshoes. But just like in politics, you might not get everything you want here: portion sizes are small, although the tapas are relatively inexpensive. There are, however, tasting menus with a glass of wine and multiple tapas that make a better value.
i Tapas from 20 kn, tapas tasting with wine 70 kn, wine from 30 kn
RESTAURANT “ROOFTOP LUVIJI” ($$)
Jurja Novaka 6; 091 519 8444; open daily 6pm-1am
Since you’ll be paying for overpriced food in Hvar, might as well do it with a view and polka-dotted tablecloths. Rooftop Luviji is located in an alleyway behind the cathedral, which is convenient, but also off the beaten path from the easily spotted restaurants on the Riva and Pijaca. The food is typical and not outstanding, but the real reason to come here is the picturesque view of the fortress and cathedral.
i Entrées from 100 kn
NIGHTLIFE
KIVA BAR
Fabrika b.b.; 091 512 2343; open daily summer 9pm-2:30am
We’re pretty sure Croatia is in the EU and even surer that the EU bans smoking inside buildings, but Bar Kiva doesn’t give a shit. Wild stuff happens here. People are packed into small spaces where strangers will grind on you—not out of attraction, but instead by being pushed by other strangers trying to get a drink from the bar. Don’t be surprised to see fiery sparklers, girls dancing on the bar, and spilled alcohol. If you’re looking for an experience akin to fighting your way through a mosh pit, though, look no further than Bar Kiva.
i No cover, cocktails from 50 kn
CAFÉ BAR ALOHA
Fabrika 15; 91 514 27 66; bar open daily 5pm-2am
Café by day, bar and wannabe club by night, Café Aloha is typical of the nightlife on the Riva. It’s overpriced, there are gimmicky cocktails, and, if you can afford it, you can order literal fishbowls of alcohol. While the bar is acceptable, do not come for the coffee, as they’re the only café in Croatia that didn’t give us water with our cappuccino. We have standards.
i No cover, cocktails from 50 kn
CARPE DIEM
Riva 32; 021 742 369; www.carpe-diem-hvar.com; open daily 9am-2am
Rain drop, drop top, where that Dom Perignon pop pop? That would be at Carpe Diem, where the luxe yachters come to walk on the literal red carpet and pretend that Hvar is the French Riviera. Drinks are priced accordingly. In high season, the club goes until late in the morning. Outside there is a nice lounge with ridiculously comfy wicker sofas for those who would like a more relaxed party.
i No cover, drinks from 50 kn; may need reservations in high season
KONOBA KATARINA
Kroz Grodu 22; 095 547 5438; open daily 10am-11pm
This is the Croatian family wine cellar you never had. We’re talking stone floors and ceilings, demijohns, and homemade wooden seating. There are even family photos. The place has old-world vibes, which happens to be our kind of vibes. Though the appetizers are limited and expensive, the glasses of wine are some of the cheapest in Hvar. Enjoy a glass on the steps or inside as you turn back time and savor a quiet, laid-back night on the island.
i Wine from 8 kn, appetizers from 50 kn
SPLIT
Coverage by Gavin Moulton
Thoughts about Balkan cities don’t typically conjure images of palm trees, but then again Split is far from your average Balkan city. There are plenty of Roman monuments to gawk at, cliffs to jump off, and works of art to admire. But, in reality, you don’t need to make much of an effort to enjoy Split. This is a place to do one of two things: relax and party. Split is where everyone goes to pregame for their individual island vacations. That said, let’s be real. If your idea of a good time happens to be dancing at the Ultra music festival or partying on the beach until 6am, Split has much in store for you.
ORIENTATION
Split is easily walkable and therefore not really divided into separate regions. If we were to Split it, though, we’d say there are two main parts: Old Town and the waterfront Riva. To be frank though, the entire city could fit inside Diocletian’s Palace, which is front and center in Old Town. Weave through the tiny, compact streets of Old Town Split to uncover all its nooks and crannies, including but not limited to shops, restaurants, and museums. Just south of Old Town lies the renowned Riva, best known for its breathtaking views of the Dalmatian coast and lively nightlife scene. If you’re looking to escape, the neighborhoods flanking Old Town, Veli Varos and Manus, offer a quaint reprieve.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
If flying, you’ll have to get transport to Split from either Zagreb Airport or Dubrovnik Airport. There are daily flights by Croatia Airlines between these cities and Split. We highly recommend flying from Dubrovnik (or taking a 14hr bus… the choice is yours). From Zagreb, Split is approximately a 7hr bus or train ride. Bus schedules and tickets are available at Zagreb Bus Terminal. The best way to book a train is to look up schedules for Croatia Railways. Split also has a massive ferry port that connects to several Croatian islands; the only international connection is, however, to Italy.
GETTING AROUND
The attractions in Split’s Old Town are easily walkable; the streets are so narrow that car or rail travel is impossible and illogical. Public buses connect the Split city center with the suburbs, as well as neighboring cities like Omis (Bus #60) and Trogir (Bus #37). Tickets can be purchased at Tisak kiosks or on the bus.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Main tourist office (Peristil; 02 134 80 74; open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 8am-8pm)
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: ATMs are located throughout the town. There are plenty located on the Riva such as Splitsha Banks ATMs. ATMs in Croatia typically dispense cash in 100 and 200 kn bills, which can get annoying.
Post Offices: Papandopulova Ul. 1; 02 134 80 74; open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 7am-1pm
Internet: There are several cafés with free Wi-Fi in Split. There are other public hotspots like the Riva and Fish Market.
BGLTQ+ Resources: LGBT Center Split (Ul. kralja Tomislava 8; 91 620 8990)
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112
Police: Mike Tripala br.6; 192
US Embassy: The US Embassy is located in Zagreb at Ul. Thomasa Jeffersona 2; 1 6612 200; open M-F 8am-4:30pm
Hospitals: Hospital Firule (Spinciceva 1; 21 556 111)
Pharmacies: Bacvice Kralja Zvonimira 2; 21 482 830
ACCOMMODATIONS
SPLIT WINE GARDEN HOSTEL ($)
Poljana Tina Ujevica 3/3; 098 480 855; reception open 24hr
Sweet, sweet air-conditioning. If you’ve been missing this American staple, Split Wine Garden Hostel will hook you up. Their recently renovated rooms and relaxed wine terrace vibes are a nice break from the ubiquitous Split party hostel. Located on the Marjan side of Split, it’s a longer haul from the train-ferry-bus station and not ideal for a late arrival. Regardless, the staff is friendly and the vine-covered terrace is a perfect space to get to know fellow travelers.
i Dorms from 160 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included; luggage storage
DESIGN HOSTEL GOLI+BOSI ($$)
Morpurgova Poljana; 021 510 999; www.golibosi.com; reception open 24hr
What is a design hostel? We sure don’t know and we doubt that Goli+Bosi knows either. But it’s got futuristic lockers that open with a keypad, optical-illusion-style hallways lathered in yellow, and a swanky restaurant-bar combo. The hostel is ultra clean and the ensuite bathroom and shower are a definite plus. The downside is that Goli+Bosi feels more like a hotel than a hostel with hella impersonal staff and a lack of community bonding spaces.
i Dorms from 200 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included
HOSTEL KISS ($)
Stari Pazar 2; 095 838 4437; reception open 9am-1pm and 3pm-9pm
That moment when you run out of money but your plane doesn’t leave until next week is the kind of desperation that should lead you to Split’s budget king: Hostel Kiss. Though not major, the general mustiness may worsen any allergies, colds, or stuffy noses you arrived with and you’ll have to hold the shower head yourself, but it’s survivable as long as you don’t forget your keys after 9pm. If that happens you’ll be stuck with a locked door and forced to sleep on the streets of Split until the police make you move—all hypothetically speaking of course. But granted, it’s half the price of every other hostel in town and has a helpful staff.
i Dorms from 140 kn in summer, 100 kn during off-season; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included
SIGHTS
CULTURE
CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATER
Trg Gaje Bulata 1; 021 306 908; www.hnk-split.hr
The performances at the Croatian National Theater are truly straight out of Amadeus. The 1893 theater itself was constructed in Neoclassical style and its interior is reminiscent of the great opera houses of Europe, down to the red velvet chairs and gilded box seating. Throughout the year, the theater puts on operas, ballets, and concerts—all at dirt cheap prices. So don your cleanest, least wrinkled shirt and try not to be intimidated by the elegantly dressed and music-loving locals as you take a break from the sun and soak up some culture.
i Tickets from 25 kn; wheelchair accessible; dress code semi-formal
LANDMARKS
CATHEDRAL OF ST. DOMINUS
Ul. Kraj Svetog Duje 5; open M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 12:30pm-6:30pm
Split’s center fits entirely within the former Palace of Diocletian, and, within what was Diocletian’s mausoleum, is the Cathedral of Split. This must-see is one of the most important monuments remaining of the Roman Empire and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (casual, we know). From the many parts of the complex, we recommend seeing the cathedral itself and the bell tower. Not for the faint of mind, body, or spirit, prepare yourself for the hike up remarkably small steps and be rewarded with stunning city views. The main building of the cathedral dates back to the time of Diocletian, but has undergone extensive renovation, with architectural elements from the Romanesque and Baroque periods.
i Admission 45 kn; limited wheelchair accessibility
PROKURATIVE (TRG REPUBLIKA)
Trg Republika; open daily 24hr
The Prokurative is St. Mark’s Square minus all the pigeons. The Republic Square, built in the 1880s, is heavily inspired (read: plagiarized) from Venetian sources. Located just outside the confines of Diocletian’s Palace, the reddish-pink buildings frame the ocean in a three-sided piazza filled with cafés. During the summer season, be on the look-out for concerts and other public events frequently held here.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUMS
GALERIJA MEŠTROVIĆ
Šetaliśte Ivana Meštrovića 46; 021 340 800; www.mestrovic.hr; open Tu-Sa 9am-4pm, Su 10am-3pm
Ivan Meštrović is the one Croatian artist you’ve never heard of, but really should have. He’s essentially Rodin, minus most of the fame. The little celebrity status that Meštrović enjoyed, however, was enough to afford a giant villa and, once you’re that rich, does fame truly matter? Ponder this philosophical question while gazing at Meštrović’s mesmerizing secessionist sculptures located inside the villa, out in the surrounding garden, and in a chapel 200m down the street. The artist’s works were influenced heavily by religious and classical themes, so you can finally put those years of high school Latin (and Sunday school) to use.
i Admission 15 kn
MUZEJ GRADA SPLITA (SPLIT CITY MUSEUM)
Papaliceva 1; 021 360 171; www.mgst.net; open M-Su 8:30am-9pm
The Split City Museum is a giant guide to all the history you’ll experience but fail to fully understand in downtown Split. Something we learned, for example: locals used to fear the Egyptian sphinxes brought by our homie, Emperor Diocletian, because they thought the sphinxes cast bad luck. The museum’s collection covers Split’s history from start to present and the building is an attraction in itself. The second floor’s Gothic ceiling, for example, is one of the few remaining pieces of Gothic architecture in the city.
i Admission 20 kn, students 10 kn
OUTDOORS
PARK MARJAN
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 25; open daily 24hr
While you can’t have stacks on stacks on stacks because Split will drain your wallet, you can have stairs on stairs on stairs at Park Marjan. Overlooking Split, Park Marjan is the giant mountain (okay, maybe not giant, but large enough to substitute for leg day at the gym) topped with a cross and the Croatian flag. The heavily forested area offers splendid views as you huff and puff and blow your house down… or just breath heavily while working off a week’s worth of risotto. Pro tip: bring water and food as after Teraca Vidilica, there is only one water pump and nowhere to purchase sustenance. The stairs to the park are located on the western side of Split; just keep going uphill and you’ll get there eventually, we promise.
i Free; no wheelchair accessibility
BACVICE BEACH
Šetalište Petra Preradovica 5; open daily 24hr
This is the most popular beach in Split due to its convenient location and over 20 feet of clear knee-deep water. More importantly, it’s also the home of picigin, a game of group hacky sack played with a racquetball that will put your family beach volleyball tournaments to shame. The falls of players here are more dramatic than an Italian soccer player trying to get his opponent a red card. The beach is also blue flag certified, meaning it’s one of the cleanest in Europe. At night, the many bars and restaurants on the beach come to life with parties in the high season lasting until the wee hours of the morning.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
FOOD
KONOBA GREGO LEVANTE ($$$)
Radovanova 2; 021 488 488; www.pizzeriabakra.com; open daily 9am-11pm
Grego Levante should really make their own rendition of the classic “What Would I Do For A Klondike Bar” jingle, because we would seriously do some crazy shit for anything on the menu here. This is the food you will dream about, Instagram about, and then dream about again. What’s not to like with an emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, the friendliest servers in Split, and prices better than competitors. The menu focuses on specialties of the region such as pastičada, a typical meat dish with gnocchi.
i Entrées from 60 kn
ARTICOK ($$)
Bana Josipa Jelacica 19; 095 670 0004; open M-Th 9am-11pm, F-Sa 9am-midnight
Artichoke puns aside, there are art puns. The interior walls of this restaurant are covered in murals that would fit perfectly in a modern art museum. Adding to the cultured theme is the jazz music that’s as smooth as the tomato sauce they put on their oh-so-good homemade gnocchi. Prices are slightly lower compared to the bland tourist trap restaurants in Diocletian’s Palace, but what makes Articok a gem is a more authentic gastronomic experience that includes dishes outside of traditional Dalmatian cuisine.
i Entrées from 60 kn
LUKA ICE CREAM & CAKES ($)
Ul. kralja petra svacica 2; 091 908 0678; open daily 9am-midnight With the exception of Gelateria Spalato, the quality of ice cream in the rest of Split pales in comparison to Luka. Luka, however, undoubtedly takes the cake for the best value with their massive (and we mean massive) scoops. Its charming café vibe and seasonal flavors are also major game changers. If you’re lucky enough to summer in Split, enjoy your ice cream at an outdoor shop around the corner from the main café under the gaze of a giant mural of a Roman emperor. I scream for Luka’s ice cream; et tu, Brute?
i Scoops 8 kn
RESTORAN ŠPERUN ($$)
Šperun ul.; 021 346 999; open daily 9am-11pm
The Croatia of yesteryear may not survive in the straight-off-the-cruise ship swamped Riva, but it does at Restaurant Sperun, located in the less touristy Varoš neighborhood. The vibe is pure Roman Holiday: checkered tablecloths, old prints, and model ships. Only the bocca della verità hasn’t come out to play. Soups and pastas are well within even the most constrained backpacker’s budget, while splurge options include grilled meats and fish. If Audrey Hepburn doesn’t show up, you can console yourself with the highly recommended zuppa inglese dessert. Either way, you’re #blessed.
i Soups from 30 kn, pasta from 60 kn, meat and fish entrées from 100 kn
NIGHTLIFE
BACVICE
5 Šetalište Petra Preradovica; 091 883 3710; www.zyhdi-munisi.com/zbirac; open M-Th 7am-1am, F-Sa 7am-2am, Su 7am-1am
If you go where the night takes you in Split, you’re bound to end up at Bacvice. When all else fails and the downtown bars shut down, Bacvice will be faithfully waiting for you with its clubs and alcohol flowing and going late into the morning. Yes, it’s a bit of a walk from downtown. Yes, the clubs could be a little bit nicer. And yes, it’s easy to fall into the water because the sidewalks don’t have guardrails. But that might not be the worst thing—after a long night of drunken debauchery, there’s nothing like a sunrise swim to cure a hangover.
i Cocktails from 30 kn
ACADEMIA GHETTO CLUB
Dosud 10; 091 197 7790; open Tu-Th 4pm-midnight, F-Sa 5pm-1am, Su 4pm-midnight
People come here to rage, but not in the all-you-can-drink-pub-crawl kind of way. It’s more like the, “Let’s have stimulating intellectual conversation while dancing and drinking gin” kind of way. Thus, it’s not super surprising that this is one of the few places in Split well stocked with absinthe. Never fear: should absinthe not suit your taste, but another niche alcohol would, go for the specials on Armenian brandy and then head outside to Academia’s spacious courtyard to talk like Hemingway.
i Beer from 20 kn, cocktails from 50 kn
CAFFE BAR SKALINA
Obala Hrv. Nardnog preporoda 20; 021 344 079; open daily 9am-11pm
Lying on the Riva, Split’s landscaped limestone path that rings the harbor, is a series of bars with overpriced drinks and over-eager tourists. One of those bars is Caffe Bar Skalina. Typical of the variety on the Riva—bars that are slightly less classy than their bougier cousins in France—most drinks are in the 60 kuna range. It wouldn’t be our first choice, but, for the Riva, it does the trick.
i Drinks from 60 kn, gelato from 30 kn
PARADOX WINE & CHEESE BAR
Bana Josipa Jelacica 3; 021 787 778; open daily 8am-midnight
With a selection of wines that range from the affordable (26 kn) to the ungodly priced (120 kn) per glass, Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar is a great place to test out if you can actually fake your way through a wine tasting. Take this as an opportunity to learn about the rich varieties of Croatian wine, as Paradox’s offerings are arranged by type on the extensive menu. While we’re not whining about the wine selection, the cheese and bread sides can be a bit pricey. Pro tip: this isn’t the place to end your night, but rather a spot to kick it off.
i Wine from 26 kn, starters from 50 kn
ZAGREB
Coverage by Gavin Moulton
Ever wondered what it would be like to live somewhere where everyone was just zen? Look no further than Croatia’s capital: Zagreb, otherwise known as the epicenter of chill. What do the one million inhabitants of Zagreb do for fun? Banter in cafés or hang at bars. We recommend you follow their lead—take part in the laid-back lifestyle as you let your taste buds savor melted cheese, let your eyes take in both contemporary and ancient art, and let the night take you to some of the most interesting bars Europe has to offer. Zagreb is the perfect antidote to the high prices of Vienna and an oasis after the party scene of Berlin. With the world’s shortest funicular, good craft coffee, and brewery startups, we’re not complaining.
ORIENTATION
Zagreb is Croatia’s capital, located in the northwestern region of the country. If you count the surrounding Zagreb country, Zagreb is the only Croatian city with a population of over one million people, but, that said, it doesn’t feel that large. The city center, known as Upper Town, is famous for landmarks such as the Zagreb Cathedral and the very photogenic St. Mark’s Church. In Upper Town lies Trg bana Jelacica (Governor Jelacic Square), the home of crowds and the largest tram stop in Zagreb. Many tourist destinations are concentrated in this area, which is also characterized by Austro-Hungarian architecture that lends it a charming old-timey feel. On the northern end of Upper Town is Gradec, the oldest region of Zagreb that is easily accessible via the funicular. Just south of Upper Town (and perhaps a bit obviously) lies Donji grad (Lower Town). This area has a more modern feel than its northern neighbor with more urban spaces and office buildings.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
The best way to get into Zagreb is by plane. Franjo Tuđman Airport, more commonly known as Zagreb Airport, is the largest airport in Croatia and serves many airlines, both domestic and international. From within Europe, travel to Zagreb by train, docking at Zagreb Central Station (Trg kralja Tomislava 12). Like the airport, the train station is the largest and busiest in all of Croatia, making it the main hub of the Croatian Railways network. Traveling in and out of Zagreb is also possible via bus at the station located at Avenija Marina Držića 4.
GETTING AROUND
Zagreb has a functioning tram system with major hubs at Ban Jelacic Square and by the Zagreb Central Station. Tickets (10 kn during the day) are valid for 90min. If you don’t want to walk to Upper Town, you can take the funicular (4 kn); Zagreb’s funicular is the shortest inclined railway in the world. At the city outskirts, you must make the switch to Zagreb’s buses.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Tourist Information Centre (Trg Bana J. Jealcica 11; 01 481 40 51; open M-F 8:30am-9pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su and holidays 10am-4pm)
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: ATMs are located throughout the city, but most ATMs will dispense money in 200 and 100 kn bills. An exchange office is located at the bus station.
Post Offices: Hrvatska pošta (Jurišićeva ul. 13; open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 7am-2pm)
Internet: The many coffee shops and cafés of Zagreb serve as Wi-Fi hotspots. Trg bana Jelacica also offers free public Wi-Fi.
BGLTQ+ Resources: Iskora (Petrinjska ul. 27; 091 244 4666)
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112. The American Embassy in Croatia also maintains an emergency number for American citizens: 01 661 2400.
Police: Petrinjska ul. 30; 192
US Embassy: There is a US Embassy in Zagreb (Ul. Thomasa Jeffersona 2; 1 6612 200; open M-F 8am-4:30pm).
Rape Crisis Center: Centre for Women War Victims - ROSA (Kralja Drzislava 2; 1 4551 142; open daily 10am-6pm)
Hospitals: Clinical Hospital Center Zagreb (Šalata 2; 1 49 20 019)
Pharmacies: Gradska Ljekarna Zagreb (Trg Petra Svačića 17; 01 485 65 45)
ACCOMMODATIONS
SUBSPACE HOSTEL ($)
Ul. Nikole Tesle 12; 1 481 9993; www.subspacehostel.com; reception open 24hr
Subspace is not subpar, unless you’re claustrophobic, that is. Instead of bunks, this newly opened hostel has space capsules stacked on top of each other. Each one is soundproof and comes equipped with a mirror, blue mood lighting, and a TV. The space theme extends to the bathrooms where you shower inside a “regeneration unit” that, in reality, is a large repurposed industrial pipe. The ceiling glows with a mural of the stars and the whole hostel is covered with sci-fi themed art. We’re still trying to figure out why the bathroom doors are so damn hard to close and why you have to unlock the hostel door before you exit—rookie errors we suppose.
i Dorms from 170 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi
HOSTEL CHIC ($$)
Pavla Hatza 10; 1 779 3760; www.hostel-chic.com; reception open 2pm-11pm
Chic is a word that describes a Parisian fashion show, not a budget hostel with purple and green walls. If you can overlook this poor usage of the French language, Hostel Chic is a comeback kid, as it’s a solid, centrally located budget option. Many of the rooms have balconies, which is a definite plus considering the hostel’s social spaces are relatively small. Unlike the other comeback kid, Joe Montana, however, “The Catch” to Hostel Chic is not positive: namely, the small kitchenette (emphasis on the -ette) is très petite indeed.
i Dorms from 85 kn, privates from 260 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; kitchen
HOSTEL SWANKY MINT ($$$)
Ilica ul. 50; 1 400 4248; www.swanky-hostel.com; reception open 24hr
You shouldn’t need any encourage-mint to stay at this establish-mint, but, in the rare case that the “Best Hostel in Croatia” commend-mint isn’t convincing, let the free towels, locks, and welcome shot of rakija do the job. While we wish there were more bathrooms, the proximity to Zagreb’s center makes it worth the stay. Swanky, boasting an added cool factor of being converted from an old laundry factory, has a bar-pool complex frequented both by locals and tourists. Although that disrupts the traditional hostel community vibe, if it turns out you’re mint to be with someone, you can always upgrade to a private room, no judge-mint.
i Dorms from 150 kn, privates from 520 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi
SIGHTS
CULTURE
DOLAĆ MARKET
Tržnica Dolać; open daily 7am-1pm
In the center of Zagreb lies the Dolać Market. Think of your typical farmer’s market, then multiply it to fill a city square and add in some souvenir stands. You can always grab materials for a picnic and then head behind the cathedral to Ribnjak Park to enjoy your fresh acquisitions. While there, don’t miss out on seeing the Roman monument in the park’s center.
i Prices vary; wheelchair accessible
FUNICULAR
Uspinjaca; open daily 6:30am-9:50pm
When you have an opportunity to ride the world’s shortest funicular for 75 cents, go for it. Although built in the late nineteenth century to practically connect the Uper and Lower Towns, today it’s used more by tourists than locals. Like all of Zagreb’s public transit, the funicular is blue and easily spotted on the hillside. But if you’re not one to roll out those 4 kuna, there are steps located parallel to the funicular.
i Ride 4 kn; funicular runs every 10min.; wheelchair accessible
KAMENITA VRATA (STONE GATE)
Kamenita ul; open daily 24hr
The Stone Gate is the only surviving gate from Zagreb’s medieval heyday when walls defended the Upper Town against attack. Today, the gate is most notable for the small chapel dedicated to an icon of Mary. Although a street runs through the gate, there are pews on one side and a small shop sells candles to the faithful. At almost any hour of the day, several members can be found praying at the shrine.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
ST. MARK’S CHURCH
Trg Sv. Marka 5
The colorful tiles on the roof of the thirteenth-century church depicting the coat of arms of Zagreb and Croatia make the perfect photo op to show everyone back home that you are indeed in Croatia. St. Mark’s, located across from the Croatian parliament building is one of the oldest churches in the city. Its south entrance is particularly notable for its impressive Gothic portal, with sculptures.
i Often closed, but the portal may be open to peek inside; wheelchair accessible
LANDMARKS
TUNEL GRIČ
Tomićeva ul; open daily 9am-11:30pm
Need to update your Instagram with James Bond-style dramatic photos of yourself? Tunel Grič is Zagreb’s very own air raid shelter turned subterranean pedestrian passageway. Translation: a long tunnel with surprisingly good lighting and dramatic cavernous spaces. If we haven’t convinced you yet, where else in the world can you go and walk in a tunnel for fun? (Put your hand down, Montréal. We’re in Europe.) Enter the tunnel just to the west of the funicular, as there is an art exhibition before the entrance.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
ZAGREB CATHEDRAL
Kaptol ul. 5; 1 481 4727; www.zgnadbisk-upija.hr
This Cathedral is to Zagreb what St. Stephen’s is to Vienna, albeit a smaller, less impressive version, kind of like the city in general. But don’t worry, your visit to the tallest building in Croatia is rewarded with gothic architecture and cultural insights. Take, for example, the Glagolitic script on the back wall immediately to its right entrance. And, if you didn’t know what that was, Glagolitic script is an alphabet that was used for centuries in Croatian religious texts after being introduced by St. Cyril in the ninth century, before he teamed up with his brother, St. Methodius, to create the more widely used Cyrillic.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
ZAKMARDIJEVE STUBE (ZAKMARDI STAIRS)
Zakmardijeve Stube; open daily 24hr
Paris has the Pont des Arts and Rome the Ponte Milvio, and Zagreb the Zakmardijeve Stairs to express their affection through a lovelock. Why stairs, you may ask? These boast the most breathtaking and most romantic view of the city. More than just a set of stairs, they connect the lower town to the upper town and lead to the Gradec Plateau, next to St. Catherine’s Church, which is also a highly recommended viewpoint. So, if the Museum of Broken Relationships isn’t working with your significant (or soon-to-be significant) other, maybe this will do the trick.
i Free; no wheelchair accessibility
MUSEUMS
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Av. Dubrovnik 17; 1 605 2700; www.msu.hr; open Tu-Su 11am-6pm, Sa 11am-8pm
Maybe it’s the violins hanging from the ceiling or the museum’s Brutalist concrete architecture, but the Museum of Contemporary Art feels like a scene from a dystopian nightmare. The wacky exhibits waiting inside don’t help either. We’re talking naked women laying on trees, optical illusions, and giant piles of coconuts. But the real reason to take the 15-minute tram out to Novi Zagreb is the three-story slide. It does not disappoint. Should you want to see Croatian modern art but don’t want to make the trek out south, check out the Moderna Galerija for similarly mind-bending pieces.
i Admission 30 kn; students, seniors, disabled, groups 15 kn; wheelchair accessible
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
19 Nikola Šubića Zrinskog; 1 487 3100; www.amz.hr; open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-1pm
The world’s longest text written in Etruscan? Cremated human remains sitting in the open with no glass? An American sports bar in the middle of a courtyard with Roman sculptures? No, this is not just a natural history museum, funeral home, or restaurant—it’s the Zagreb Archaeological Museum. For an entrance fee of a mere 15 kuna, gain access to the best collection of Egyptian and Roman artifacts in Croatia. The renovated first and second floors feature stellar English descriptions, while the Stone and Bronze Age content on the third floor is translated in orange notebooks found throughout the exhibits. And, if reading all these historical facts stresses you out, relax with a beer in the courtyard restaurant while sitting next to a Roman sarcophagus.
i Admission 30 kn, students 15 kn, families 50 kn; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUM OF NAÏVE ART
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3; 1 485 1911; www.hmnu.hr; open M-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-1pm
Ever looked at a piece of art and thought “I could paint that”? That’s the entire idea behind naïvism, the most important movement in twentieth-century Croatian art. Not quite as bizarre as the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Naïve Art keeps it real with a small, but interesting collection. What is naïvism, you ask? It’s when artists without formal training or experience create works of art. The results may reinforce the value of art school, but they also make for a treasured experience. Expect giant roosters and multicolored cathedrals.
i Admission 25 kn, students 15 kn
MUZEJ MIMARA
Rooseveltov trg 5; 1 482 8100; www.mimara.hr; open Oct 1-June 30 Tu-W 10am-5pm, Th 10am-7pm, F-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm; July 1-Sept 30 Tu-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm
The Mimara Museum is Zagreb’s response to New York’s Frick Collection, as it is entirely composed of works from the collections of Ante Topic Mimara, Croatia’s most famous art collector. It’s also where we go for the best non-contemporary art in Zagreb. Renoir? Got two of ‘em. Rubens? You betcha. Strong holdings in impressionist painting and medieval sculpture round out the collection. English descriptions are lacking, but there is a free Wi-Fi guide that works in some galleries.
i Admission 40 kn, reduced 30 kn; wheelchair accessible
FOOD
LA ŠTRUK ($$)
Skalinska 5; 1 483 7701; open daily 11am-10pm
We’re never okay with missing an opportunity to eat melted cheese. And if you’re like us and didn’t grow up with a Croatian grandma, štrukli will be a game changer. It is a specialty of the Zagreb region and the only item on the menu at La Štruk. Think cheese strudel baked like lasagna with cheese on top. While the most typical version is baked, the restaurant also has variations—try it in soup or boiled. La Štruk gets major bonus points for the picturesque garden terrace hidden around the corner where you can dine under the warm Croatian sun.
i Strudel from 30 kn
STARI FIJAKER ($)
Mesnicka 6; 1 483 3829; starifijaker.hr; open M-Sa 11am-10pm, Su 11am-9pm
If Zagreb were Pawnee and restaurants were people, Stari Fijaker would be Ron Swanson: unapologetically traditional, meat loving, and a little over-the-top—but we aren’t complaining. Stari Fijaker will care for your physical, emotional, and spiritual (yes spiritual) needs, with its large portions of hearty Balkan food, comfortable chairs, and large crucifix. (Who doesn’t need a bit more Jesus in their life after a week of partying on the Croatian coast?) The menu, with English translations, consists of traditional dishes such as shepherds stew: think goulash with gnocchi, which clearly shows the historical influences on local gastronomy due to its location between Hungary and Italy.
i Entrées from 80 kn
BISTROTEKA ($$)
Nikole Tesle 14; 1 483 7711; www.bistroteka.hr; open M-Th 8:30am-midnight, F-Sa 8:30am-1am
Bistroteka is the incarnation of the word “aesthetic.” We’re talking exposed brick, faux majolica floors, and chalkboard walls. Even better than the aesthetic are the reasonably priced starters (30 kuna). Perhaps even more impressive than that is the multi-functionality of the place. Brunch spot? Check. Café? Check. Bar? Dinners, lunches, birthday cakes? Check, check, check, and check. If only we could multitask as efficiently, and deliciously, as Bistroteka.
i Starters and sandwiches from 30 kn, meat entrées from 100 kn
COGITO COFFEE SHOP ($)
Varšavska 11; www.cogitocoffee.com; open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa 9am-7pm Ditch the ubiquitous street cafés of central Zagreb for the holy grail of coffee. Welcome to Cogito, the pilgrimage destination of in-the-know Zagrebian hipsters, yuppies, and the otherwise cool. This coffee bar is the brainchild of Cogito Coffee Roasters, a 2014 startup dedicated to bringing quality, in-house roasted coffee to the Croatian capital. As you enjoy your artisanal flat white, elderflower juice, or homemade iced tea, don’t be jarred by the seemingly eclectic décor: modern art, a vintage map of Africa, and a potted plant. We admit this is a bit over-the-top, but there is additional seating in a non-decorated exterior courtyard.
i Coffee from 10 kn, cappuccino from 14 kn
NIGHTLIFE
A MOST UNUSUAL GARDEN ($)
Horcanska 3; 091 464 6900; open daily 8am-midnight
A sculpture of an octopus with a giant cucumber in a bathtub is the first thing you’ll see at A Most Unusual Garden. This bar is truly unlike anything else in Zagreb, or the world for that matter. Part-gin bar, part-treehouse, part-wall murals, this joint, frequented by locals, will make you feel like you’re a character in Alice in Wonderland. Aside from the steampunk décor, there is a large outdoor seating area with steps, tables, and you guessed it, a treehouse—all underneath string lights and empty bottles of gin lit with candles. i No cover, drinks from 20 kn
CLUB ROKO
Jarunska 5; 097 659 2000; open daily 8pm-3am
“You can go there, but they play trashy Croatian pop from the 90s,” said the university students. “If you want to get lit on a Wednesday, it’s the only place,” said our bartender. “It’s the sole club in the area,” confirmed a stranger on the street. And they were all right. Club Roko, a locals-only joint south of the city center, gets going around 1am on weekday nights. No worries if you don’t speak Croatian; with live music and the entire club belting out the chorus, you’ll learn fast. Those willing to brave the smoke-filled interior will be rewarded with an authentic Zagreb experience and clothes that smell like a chain smoker’s.
i No cover, drinks from 25 kn
RAKHIA BAR
Tkalciceva 45; 098 964 0587; open daily 8am-midnight
The first word you’ll learn in Croatia is probably rakija. Found throughout the Balkans, it’s the national drink of Croatia. And Rakhia Bar has every type of this brandy imaginable. The plum flavor is the strongest, but our favorite was the walnut. But, with over fifty options, why not find your personal pick? Just not too many, otherwise the steampunk interior might make your stomach turn. If all fails and Rakhia Bar is full, try out Bar 45 or the many other options on Tkalciceva Street.
i No cover, shots from 11 kn
TOLKIEN’S HOUSE
Opatovina 49; 1 485 2050; open daily 8am-midnight
A pub with walls covered in swords, maps of Middle Earth, and maces? Now that’s what we’re Tolkien about. Note: do not confuse Tolkien’s House with a hobbit house. For those, you’ll have to go to New Zealand. But, if a small pub with lots of Lord of the Rings paraphernalia and a solid selection of beers sounds like a good alternative, check it out on Opatovina ul., the cooler and more local cousin of the main bar drag, Tkalciceva ul.
i No cover, beers from 20 kn
CROATIA ESSENTIALS
VISAS
Croatia is a member of the European Union. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the US, and many other non-EU countries do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days. Citizens of other EU countries may enter Croatia with only their national identity cards. Passports are required for everyone else. Despite being part of the EU, Croatia is not in the Schengen Area, however holders of a Schengen visa are allowed to visit Croatia for up to 90 days without the need of an additional visa.
MONEY
Despite being a member of the EU, Croatia is not in the Eurozone and uses the Croatian kuna (HRK or kn) as its currency.
Tipping: Tipping is not always expected, but often appreciated in Croatia. For bars and cafés, tips are not expected, but it is common to round up the bill. So, if the bill comes to 18 kn, leave 20 kn. Tipping in restaurants is much more common, and you should tip your server about 10% and 15% for really exceptional service. Taxi drivers also do not expect tips, but customers generally round up the bill.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Drugs and Alcohol: The minimum age to purchase alcohol in Croatia is 18, though technically there is no minimum age to drink alcohol (cheers!). Remember to drink responsibly and to never drink and drive. The legal blood alcohol content (BAC) for driving in Croatia is under 0.05%, significantly lower than the US limit of 0.08%.
Travelers with Disabilities: Croatia is largely not wheelchair accessible, as many of the sights require climbing stairs to reach the main attraction and elevators are not often provided. Streets themselves in Croatia often do not lend themselves to wheelchair travel, as they are not evenly paved and many are cobbled.
BGLTQ+ Travelers: Homosexuality has been legal in Croatia since 1977. It is also illegal to discriminate on the basis of sexuality and production of homophobic material can result in up to one year of imprisonment. There is still controversy, however, and homosexuality is still not widely accepted. Public displays of affection between same-sex couples may be met with hostility.
