Читать книгу Let's Go Europe 2019 - Harvard Student Agencies - Страница 15
ОглавлениеDENMARK
The Scandinavian countries are Rand Paul’s worst nightmare. They’re the ultimate “nanny states”—overly taxing their people (most of whom are pretty okay with it), and giving back something more akin to a safety king-sized bed than a net. Denmark has characteristically high taxes and significant benefits for its people, but compared to Sweden and Norway, Denmark really plays it fast and loose. The Danes love to drink all day (and all night), still allow smoking indoors in some places, and, best of all, don’t have a ridiculous government monopoly on alcohol (looking at you, Sweden and Norway). Whatever’s going on over there seems to be working, though. The Danes are routinely ranked the happiest people in the world, thanks largely to a cultural mindset that is equal part bemusing and unpronounceable (see: hygge). Long story short, the Danes just think happy, and it works. For the whole country. Incredible. Denmark straddles the border between Scandinavia and the rest of Europe. Like its northern neighbors, it is still obsessed with Vikings and you’ll find at least one museum exhibition dedicated entirely to furniture, but Denmark also contains the Renaissance castles of France, the picturesque canal-side waterfront of Italy, and the bike-friendliness of Amsterdam. Don’t worry, though: with typical Scandinavian prices, you won’t mistake Denmark for Germany any time soon. Your dollar won’t take you as far here as, well, pretty much anywhere else, but, as Socrates once said, “you get what you pay for.” In Denmark, that means “hostels” that are more like four-star hotels and “street food” markets reminiscent of premium food courts. But, if you’re okay setting a budget, trying to stick to it, and quickly realizing that your bank account is emptying faster than Copenhagen during the summer vacation season (seriously, it’s so damn long), experiencing Denmark is worth every krone.
AARHUS
Coverage by Eric Chin
Aarhus has come a long way since it was founded in the eighth century as a Viking settlement. Over the centuries, buildings rose, buildings burned, Christianity and the plague arrived with mixed results, and people came—so many people that Aarhus is now Denmark’s second largest city. Today, Aarhus is trying out a bold new look—one with apartment buildings designed to look like icebergs and libraries and playgrounds under the same roof – but it hasn’t forgotten its origins. The oldest part of the city, Latinerkvarteret, remains a cultural center for shops and restaurants, and despite several new high-rise buildings, the towering spire of Aarhus Cathedral remains still stands as the tallest point in the city. Despite this rich history, Aarhus is Denmark’s youngest city demographically, thanks to a large student population. Combine that with a bustling tourism industry, and the result is everything from budget hostels to grand hotels, burgers and Vietnamese to Michelin-starred restaurants, and Irish pubs to Bond-style cocktail bars. Copenhagen may be the city to visit in Denmark, but you’d be remiss not to give Jutland a try, and there’s no better place than Aarhus.
ORIENTATION
Aarhus doesn’t have neighborhoods that are as distinct as in, say, Copenhagen, there are certainly distinct areas. The area known as Aarhus C is sometimes also called Midtbyen, and stretches north from Aarhus H to several streets past Aarhus Cathedral. Here you’ll find almost all the major sights in the city, including restaurants, museums, and the busy nightlife streets Åboulevarden, Skolegade, and Frederiksgade. The area between Aarhus Cathedral and the Ring 1 Road to the north is known as Latinerkvarteret (The Latin Quarter), and is the oldest part of the city. To the west of the city center is Vesterbro, a largely-residential neighborhood that includes cultural attractions like the Botanical Garden and Den Gamle By.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Aarhus Airport (AAR) is a tiny airport located about 35mi. northeast of the city. Departures mostly go to Copenhagen. There is an airport bus between Aarhus Central Station and Aarhus Airport scheduled for each flight. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for DKK 115. The easiest way to get to Aarhus is by train via Copenhagen, a journey of 3-4hr. Aarhus’s main train station is Aarhus Central Station (Aarhus H), and there are many trains between Aarhus H and Copenhagen Central Station (København H) each day, often more than one per hour. Train service in Denmark is operated by DSB. Tickets (DKK 400) can be purchased at either station.
GETTING AROUND
Most attractions are within walking distance. To go beyond the city center (to the Moesgaard Museum, for example), Aarhus has a system of buses run by Midttrafik with several ticket options. Single tickets can be purchased with cash at a kiosk on the bus for DKK 20 for two zones, which covers the city center and immediate suburbs. Tickets can also be purchased for 24hr (DKK 80), 48hr (DKK 120), or 72hr (DKK 160) at the Aarhus bus station (Aarhus Rutebilstation, Fredensgade 45). The Danes are famous for loving their bicycles, and Aarhus is no exception. The city has a free city bike system for use October-April. There are a few important rules, though. Lights must be used at night, and you have to provide your own. You also need a 20 DDK coin to unlock a bike, which is returned to you when you return the bike. There are bike stands near many important cultural and recreational sites, and can only be used in the city center.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Dokk1 (Hack Kampmanns Plads 2; 87 31 50 10; open M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 11am-2pm)
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Aarhus, though you may have to pay a small fee to use an international card. Currency exchange and ATMs (sometimes called “pengeautomat”) can be found at Aarhus Central Station or on main streets Sønder Allé and Store Torv.
Post Offices: The Danish postal service is run by PostNord (Posthus Superbrugsen; Vesterbro Torv 1; 70 70 70 30; open M-F 1pm-5pm).
Internet: Free internet is widely available in Aarhus, and can be found in hostels, museums, and most cafés and coffee shops. Many shops and restaurants will advertise free Wi-Fi with window stickers.
BGLTQ+ Resources: LGBT Aarhus is available on Thursdays 6pm-8pm at Café Sappho (Mejlgade 71; 86 13 19 48; lgbt. dk; Facebook @LGBTAarhus).
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112. The police can be reached at 114 in non-emergency situations.
Police: The police headquarters in Aarhus can be found near Dokk1 (Ridderstræde 1; 87 31 14 48; open daily 9:30am-9:30pm and 24hr for emergencies).
Rape Crisis Center: The Center for Rape Victims can be found in the emergency department of Aarhus University Hospital (Nørrebrogade 44; 78 46 35 43; open daily 24hr).
Hospitals: The main hospital in Aarhus is Aarhus University Hospital. In an emergency, call 112. In urgent, non-emergency situations, call the emergency doctor service at 70 11 31 31. Emergency Department (Nørrebrogade 44; open daily 24hr).
Pharmacies: Pharmacies (called apotek in Denmark), can be found on main streets. Løve Apoteket is located near Aarhus Cathedral and is open 24hr (Store Torv 5; 86 12 00 22).
ACCOMMODATIONS
CITY SLEEP-IN ($)
Havnegade 20; 86 19 20 55; www.citysleep-in.dk/en; reception open M-F 8am-11am and 4pm-10pm, Sa-Su 8am-11am and 4pm-11pm
This place is truly a budget hostel; the dorm rooms are cramped, top-bunk ladders are a bit rickety, and, much like your grandfather’s old house, there’s sometimes a subtle hint of stale cigarettes. It’s not the Ritz, but you knew that already. Luckily, the kitchen and dining area are clean and well-equipped. There’s an outdoor courtyard with ample seating, and the lobby and hallways are covered with charming murals to add a homey touch. Expect to encounter some families and more than a few random old hostel guys (you know the type), but it’s a small price to pay for… well, a small price to pay.
i Dorms DKK 190, doubles DKK 460; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linen DKK 50; laundry facilities DKK 40; breakfast DKK 70
SIMPLEBED HOSTEL ($$)
Åboulevarden 86; 53 23 21 89; www.simplebedhostel.com; reception open 24hr
This is a very basic, small hostel with a great location right on Åboulevarden, one of Aarhus’s main streets. The entire hostel is an apartment with just a few rooms: one six-bed dorm, a small kitchen, a common room, and a single bathroom. There’s also a double with a private bathroom, but don’t expect to see much of whoever is staying there. The bunk beds are huge (near to queen-size), and are fitted with mattress toppers, which guarantees you the best night’s sleep of your trip.
i Dorms DKK 250, private doubles DKK 550; reservation required; cash only; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens and towels included
SIGHTS
CULTURE
ÅBOULEVARDEN
Åboulevarden; venue hours vary
Åboulevarden, named for the Aarhus River (Aarhus Å in Danish) that it follows, is one of the busiest streets in the city, all day and all night. The pedestrian-only street is lined with establishments from shawarma shops, to dawn-to-dusk café-bars and full-on, weekend-only nightclubs. Tables line the buildings and waterfront, equipped with enough heat lamps when the sun goes down to make up for the savings of that sustainable Danish energy sector. Meals on Åboulevarden can be somewhat pricey and the nightlife a bit more exclusive, but even if you don’t want to dress up or pay out, it’s still a great place to people watch and remind yourself that you really don’t need to spend half a day’s paycheck on brunch.
i Venue prices vary; limited wheelchair accessibility
MUSIKHUSET
Thomas Jensens Allé; 89 40 40 40; www.musikhusetaarhus.dk/en; foyer open daily 11am-6pm, box office open M-Sa noon-5pm
Musikhuset Aarhus is the largest concert hall in Scandinavia, with over 1600 seats in its largest hall. It’s home to the Danish National Opera, the Aarhus Symphony Orchestra, and Comedy Zoo Aarhus, an organization for Danish stand-up which, despite the promising name, is sorely lacking in squirrels, monkeys, cats, and other similarly funny animals. There are events every week, including concerts, operas, theater performances, and comedy shows, and, while most will be out of reach on a backpacker’s budget, Musikhuset also puts on several free performances (mostly concerts) each month.
i Show prices vary; wheelchair accessible
LANDMARKS
AARHUS CATHEDRAL
Store Torv; 86 20 54 00; www.aarhusdom-kirke.dk/english; open M 9:30am-4pm, Tu 10:30am-4pm, W-Sa 9:30am-4pm
Aarhus Cathedral has changed its look more often over the years than Britney Spears has changed hers. Since construction began in the twelfth century, the cathedral has been built up, burned down, expanded, restyled between Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque numerous times, always adding to its collection of tombs of old white men. The vast interior is packed with everything you’ve come to expect out of an old cathedral: paintings, statues, gravestones, gold leaf, and pipe organs (yes, plural). Tall windows provide natural light to illuminate the vaulted Gothic arches, decorated with white-based murals that can only be described as minimalist when compared to other great cathedrals of Europe.
i Tower admission DKK 20; wheelchair accessible
DOKK1
Hack Kampmanns Plads 2; 89 40 92 00; www.dokk1.dk/english; open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm
Dokk1 is a cultural hub in Aarhus—an incredibly Danish place where art, architecture, and of course, blond children, come together. This modern behemoth of a building sits on the harbor, clad in steel, glass, and concrete. Inside, Dokk1 serves many purposes: it’s home to the city’s public library and tourist information center. It also houses a café and small performance hall. Outside, it’s practically a playground, with slides and climbing walls that resemble sculptures more than toys. All these attractions draw all kinds of people, from coffee-chugging students working in private study rooms to stroller-pushing soccer moms to children running everywhere. Stop for a drink, grab a book, or watch somebody’s dad make a fool of himself on the playground. Seriously, whose mans?
i Free; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUMS
AROS AARHUS KUNSTMUSEUM
Aros Allé 2; 87 30 66 00; www.en.aros.dk; open Tu 10am-5pm, W 10am-10pm, Th-Su 10am-5pm
Start in the basement with a gallery called The 9 Spaces (an allusion to Dante’s Inferno), containing works from a seemingly-infinite room composed of mirrors to a simulation of a whole day compressed into eight minutes. From there, ARoS stretches high with ten floors of concrete, steel, and glass, culminating in Your rainbow panorama, a circular rooftop skywalk with rainbow-tinted walls that affords vast, if a little green, view of the city. Exhibitions range from Human Nature, which asks the viewer to consider the difference between nature and landscape to No Man is an Island, which has a 4.5 meter-tall, hyper-realistic statue of a crouching boy to another statue simply titled, Fucked. You don’t even need to own a turtleneck; there’s something here to interest even the casual art critic.
i Admission DKK 130, students under 28 DKK 100, under 18 free; wheelchair accessible
MOESGAARD MUSEUM
Moesgård Allé 15; 87 39 40 00; www.moesgaardmuseum.dk/en; open Tu 10am-5pm, W 10am-9pm, Th-Su 10am-5pm
This museum of archaeology and ethnography is built into a grassy hillside in a suburb of Aarhus like some sort of concrete and glass Little House on the Prairie. The collection is vast, including everything from Viking swords to Roman pottery to Egyptian gold jewelry. There are also a slightly disturbing number of human remains on display, including a 2000-year-old corpse, incredibly preserved after spending two millennia buried in a peat bog. Looking at rusty farm tools and dead bodies doesn’t sound like the most exciting way to spend a day, but the entire museum is modern and interactive, with video presentations mixed in, and a “laboratory” where you can pretend to be an archaeologist and actually do something with your life.
i Admission Apr 8-Oct 22 DKK 140, students DKK 110, Oct 23-Apr 7 DKK 120, students DKK 90; wheelchair accessible
OUTDOORS
MOESGAARD STRAND
Strandskovvej 2; 8270
Moesgaard Strand is a large stretch of sandy beach along the coast, just south of Aarhus itself. It has earned Blue Flag status for having exceptional water quality, meaning it’s especially clean and safe. How Danish. The beach is a bit far from the city center, but it is easily accessible via city bus #31. It’s also just a short walk from the Moesgaard Museum, so you can go relax in the sun after a long morning of getting #cultured while looking at skeletons.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
SURF AGENCY
Fiskerivej 2; 60 89 05 15; www.surfagency.dk; open Tu-Th 10am-6pm, F 10am-8pm, Sa 9am-8pm
SUP. No, not the favored salutation of ninth graders who wear baggy jeans. We’re talking stand-up paddle boarding, the watersports craze that’s sweeping Instagrams worldwide. This conceptually silly but aesthetically pleasing activity has spread from sunny California to stormy New England to Aarhus. Surf Agency is a watersports hub located right on the harbor specializing in SUP classes and rentals. If you’re a newbie on the water, you can sign up for a somewhat expensive introductory course or you can just throw yourself right off the deep end with an hourly rental. For the health nuts out there, Surf Agency also offers SUP yoga classes led by an instructor. Unfortunately, artsy photos are not included.
i No wheelchair accessibility
FOOD
PHO C&P ($)
Sønder Allé 14; 86 16 16 42; www.pho-cp.dk; open M-Th noon-8:30pm, F-Sa noon-9:30pm, Su noon-8:30pm
Good morning, Vietnam! Well, maybe not, since Pho C&P doesn’t serve breakfast, but this popular spot will definitely serve up a good lunch or dinner. The menu is inspired by Vietnamese street food, (arguably the best in the world), and Pho C&P does it justice, from traditional bánh mì sandwiches to pho, the world’s most mispronounced soup. And though the authenticity doesn’t quite translate into Ho Chi Minh City prices, the place is definitely a bargain in Aarhus. Located just off of one of the city’s main shopping streets, Pho C&P is no secret, so try to eat during off-peak hours, or order takeout.
i Bánh mì from DKK 45, pho and other entrées from DKK 75, beer from DKK 25; vegan and vegetarian options available; no wheelchair accessibility
AARHUS STREET FOOD ($$)
Ny Banegårdsgade 46; www.aarhusstreetfood.com; open M-Th 11:30am-9pm, F-Sa 11:30am-10pm, Su 11:30am-9pm
Imagine if a huge fleet of food trucks all simultaneously got flat tires and jacked up their prices to pay for new ones, and you pretty much have Aarhus Street Food. Located in an old warehouse, food stands are designed to look like anything from corrugated metal shipping containers to plywood, cartoon-lemonade-stand-style shops. There’s even greater variety in the cuisine, so you’ll find everything from Afro-Caribbean jerk chicken and fries cooked in duck fat to Danish classics like rugbrød and flæskesteg. Smaller entrées like sandwiches go from DKK 50, but the price for a more substantial meal with a side and drink can quickly top DKK 100.
i Entrées from SEK 50; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible
BILL’S COFFEE ($$)
Vestergade 58; 20 74 71 96; open M-F 7:30am-6pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-5pm
Try to hop on the Wi-Fi at Bill’s and you’ll be greeted with a locked network called “BILLS is NOT an office,” which is a not-so-subtle request for you to get your millennial head out of the sand (and more specifically, off your phone) and into a book or mug of Bill’s coffee. So, have a seat at the counter, on a bench outside, or at a table underneath one of the strange, corrugated cardboard-esque lamps with a cappuccino poured by a denim-apron-clad barista, and take a minute to appreciate the eclectic reggae-jazz mix playing in the background. Or wonder how Bill’s manages to make a needlepoint pillow look modern. Your phone battery will appreciate it.
i Coffee and espresso drinks from DKK 25, pastries and cakes from DKK 15; wheelchair accessible
NIGHTLIFE
FATTER ESKIL
Skolegade 25; 21 35 44 11; www.fattereskil.dk; open W 8pm-midnight, Th 8pm-2am, F 4pm-5am, Sa 8pm-5am
Fatter Eskil is one of Aarhus’s top live music venues with concerts most Wednesday through Saturday nights. Performances range from rock and metal, to R&B and dance music, and even after the concert is over, a DJ often comes on to keep the party going. Admission to Thursday Jam Nights is free, where you can show up and hop on stage for a song or two, or just sit and enjoy the cheap beer and live music. If you’re not feeling the vibe, or if the place dies down after the show is over, Fatter Eskil is located on Skolegade, which is also home to a number of other bars and nightclubs that are popular with the kids.
i Cover DDK 40-80 depending on night, drinks from DKK 25; BGLTQ+ friendly; limited wheelchair accessibility
THE TAP ROOM
Frederiksgade 40; 86 19 19 10; www.tirnanog.dk; open M-Th noon-3am, F-Sa noon-5am, Su 1pm-3pm
If you want the perfect pint of Guinness or glass of whiskey on the rocks, look no further. There are several Irish pubs in Aarhus (turns out the Irish know a thing or two about drinking), but The Tap Room is one of the best. The bartenders are Irish (or British or Australian), the whiskey is Irish, and the music is… American? The crowd is a great mix of young, not so young, Danish, Irish, American, and more, and the playlist contains everything from Arctic Monkeys to the Strokes. Thursday at 9pm is quiz night, but you can expect rugby or football (sorry, “soccer”) on the televisions during the week, and live music late into weekend nights.
i Draft beer from DKK 50, cocktails from DKK 70, shots from DKK 30; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible
COPENHAGEN
Coverage by Eric Chin
There are a few things that generally hold true of Scandinavian cities: they’re small (Stockholm, Scandinavia’s largest, tops the list with just under one million people living in the city proper), they’re expensive (can’t argue there), and they’re obsessed with Vikings. In short, they’re great places to travel, but get a bit sleepy after a few days. Copenhagen is different. It’s not just the capital city of Denmark; it feels like the cultural capital of all of Scandinavia. Between the city itself and the many towns within reach via commuter rail, Copenhagen boasts truly impressive Renaissance castles, Baroque gardens that would make Louis XIV raise an eyebrow, and one of the best food and microbrewery scenes in the north. You’ll feel right at home in Copenhagen’s vibrant young population, filled with starving art majors and wingtip-clad startup founders alike. There’s something for everyone here, from the casual nightclubs of the Meatpacking District and the smoky bars of Nørrebro, to the bohemian paradise of Christiania with its alternative architecture and open marijuana trade. The discerning diner will love Copenhagen’s massive food halls and local delicacies. Don’t miss the smørrebrød or the greasy, crunchy goodness of flæskesteg. The casual cyclist will be amazed both by the sophistication of the city’s bike lanes, and by how uncharacteristically aggressive a Dane on a bicycle can be. It won’t be cheap (nothing in the Nordics ever is), but Copenhagen is one of the only Scandinavian cities where you could spend a week and still not have scratched the surface. It’s small but busy, modern but timeless, and of course, it’s very, very hygge.
ORIENTATION
The city center of Copenhagen (also known as Indre By or København K), extends from Copenhagen Central Station all the way to the northern end of the city. Like city centers everywhere, it’s touristy, crowded, and expensive. It’s also where you’ll find many of Copenhagen’s main attractions, including Strøget (one of Europe’s longest pedestrianized shopping streets), a number of museums and palaces, and the people-watching meccas of Kongens Nytorv and Nyhavn. Just to the east is Christianshavn, a network of islands and canals constructed by Christian IV in the style of Amsterdam. Within Christianshavn is the offbeat community (and favorite of twenty-somethings from all over the world) of Christiania, famous for its open marijuana trade. North of the city center is Østerbro, an upscale residential neighborhood with plentiful parks and high prices. Just west is a funkier alternative: Nørrebro, a classic example of a once-heavily-immigrant neighborhood overtaken by broke hipsters and art students. Directly west of the city center is Frederiksberg, another wealthy neighborhood filled with parks and baby strollers (Frederiksberg Have and the Cisterns are worth a visit). South of Frederiksberg is Vesterbro, home to the Meatpacking District and old Carlsberg Brewery. Copenhagen is also a great hub for exploring other cities on the island of Zealand, Denmark’s largest (except Greenland). To the west is Roskilde, one of Denmark’s foremost Viking cities, and to the north are Helsingør and Hillerød, home to famous Renaissance castles.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Copenhagen Airport, Kastrup (CPH), known as Københavns Lufthavn in Danish, is Scandinavia’s busiest airport. The metro is the easiest way to get to the airport; Copenhagen’s main train station is Copenhagen Central Station (København H), which connects to the rest of Scandinavia and other major European cities.
GETTING AROUND
Copenhagen’s public transportation system includes buses, a metro, and trains, which are all covered under the same ticket. The capital region is divided into zones, with ticket prices varying accordingly. Tickets can be purchased at metro stations and at 7-Elevens, but you can also buy them on buses (with cash). A 24hr pass is DKK 80, and a 72hr pass is DKK 200. Copenhagen has a city bike program, but they’re expensive (DKK 30 per hour) and bulky since they’re equipped with unnecessary electric motors. Renting from a shop or company like Donkey Republic is a better option. With so many bikes on the road, know that Danes bike with a purpose and don’t tolerate slow cyclists or pedestrians clogging up the bike lane, so make sure to stay clear. Additionally, city bus stops are often set up so that dismounting passengers step right into the bike lane, so look both ways before you get off the bus.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: Copenhagen Visitor Service (Vesterbrogade 4; 70 22 24 42; check www.visitcopenhagen.com for monthly hours, but generally 9am-5pm or later during high season).
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Copenhagen, though some places may charge a small fee for using an international card. ATMs (often called pengeautomat, or some variation thereof) can be found on the street and outside most banks. A branch of Forex Bank can be found inside Copenhagen Central Station (33 11 22 20; open daily 8am-9pm).
Post Offices: There is a centrally located post office on Pilestræde (Pilestræde 58; 70 70 70 30; open M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-2pm).
Internet: Internet is widely available in Copenhagen. Most cafés and many museums provide free Wi-Fi, as do Copenhagen Central Station and the visitor center.
BGLTQ+ Resources: Denmark is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world and in Scandinavia, and that’s saying a lot. It’s home to Denmark’s oldest gay bar, Centralhjørnet, and a number of guides, and even an app (GAY CPH) is dedicated to BGLTQ+ travel. LGBT Denmark is the national organization for BGLTQ+ advocacy (Nygade 7; 33 13 19 48).
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112. In non-emergency situations, call 1813 for a nurse or doctor, or 114 for police.
Police: Politigården, the Copenhagen Police Headquarters, is located near Copenhagen Central Station (open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm).
US Embassy: There is a US Embassy in Copenhagen (Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 24; 33 41 71 00; telephone open M-F 8:30am-5pm, appointments from M-Th 9am-noon).
Rape Crisis Center: The Centre for Victims of Sexual Assault at Rigshospitalet in Østerbro has a 24-hour crisis center and hotline (Blegdamsvej 9; 35 45 50 32).
Hospitals: Always call 1813 before visiting an emergency room, or you may not be admitted. The doctor or nurse you talk to will also help you find the nearest hospital (Bispebjerg Hospital; Bispebjerg Bakke 23; 35 31 35 31).
Pharmacies: Pharmacies (called apotek in Danish) are common on the street. Steno Apotek near Copenhagen Central Station is open 24hr (Vesterbrogade 6C; 33 14 82 66).
ACCOMMODATIONS
GENERATOR HOSTEL ($$)
Adelgade 5-7; 78 77 54 00; www.generatorhostels.com/copenhagen; reception open 24hr
Generator has built arguably the most successful hostel franchise in Europe, and its Copenhagen location doesn’t disappoint. It feels like the kind of place a Saudi prince might stay—you know, if Saudi princes stayed in hostels and not five-star hotels. Most dorms have ensuite bathrooms, the bar has two happy hours each night, and the lounge area has arcade games, pool tables, and plenty of plush couches for lounging. Its location near Copenhagen’s largest square is close to the lively nightlife along Gothersgade, and provides easy access to Nørrebro. The one downside: there’s no guest kitchen. But Saudi princes don’t cook for themselves anyway.
i Dorms from DKK 250, privates from DKK 600; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linens included; storage lockers provided; laundry DKK 50; breakfast DKK 75
COPENHAGEN DOWNTOWN HOSTEL ($)
Vandkunsten 5; 1467; 70 23 21 10; www.copenhagendowntown.com; reception open 24hr
Copenhagen Downtown is a bustling, loud, whirlwind of a hostel smack in the middle of the city center. It’s a place for the weekend and weekday warrior alike with a lobby bar always filled with booming music covering everything from “Macarena” to “Africa,” and an outdoor seating area packed with people enjoying an afternoon beer or four. Live music twice a week, cheap beer (especially during happy hour from 8pm-9pm), and events like quiz nights and pong tournaments make this the best choice if you’re the kind of person who wonders why people limit themselves to just two nights of partying a week.
i Dorms from DKK 200, privates from DKK 400; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; storage lockers provided; linens included; laundry DDK 40; breakfast buffet DKK 70
URBAN HOUSE ($)
Colbjørnsensgade 11; 33 23 29 29; www.urbanhouse.me; reception open 24hr
Urban House is massive, loud, and just as raucous as you’d expect a hostel next to a strip club to be. This hostel-hotel hybrid has every type of room from singles to family rooms and ten-bed dorms, drawing a varied crowd accordingly. Though it can often be difficult to meet people in such a large setting, Urban House gives you plenty of opportunities. There’s a large guest kitchen and lounge area, and the restaurant and bar in the lobby are busy every night of the week. There are even events like walking tours and salsa dance nights, all free for guests. Each room has a private bathroom, but don’t worry if it’s occupied in the morning—there are extra showers on the third floor.
i Dorms from DKK 190, singles from DKK 650; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included; breakfast DKK 75
SIGHTS
CULTURE
ROSENBORG CASTLE
Øster Voldgade 4A; 33 15 32 86; www.kongernessamling.dk/en/rosenborg; open Jan 2-Feb 11 Tu-Su 10am-2pm, Feb 11-Feb 26 daily 10am-3pm, Feb 26-Apr 10 Tu-Su 10am-2pm, Apr 11-Apr 17 daily 10am-4pm, Apr 18-June 15 daily 10am-4pm, June 16-Sept 15 daily 9am-5pm, Sept 16-Oct 31 daily 10am-4pm, Nov 1-Dec 22 Tu-Su 10am-2pm, Dec 26-Dec 30 daily 10am-4pm, Dec 31 10am-2pm, closed Jan 1, Apr 24
Don’t let Bernie Sanders come to Rosenborg and see what wealth inequality looked like in the Middle Ages. Rosenborg was built in the early 1600s by King Christian IV and became a place to showcase the Danish royal family’s wealth, mostly in the form of lavishly-decorated rooms and excessively ornate artifacts. See chess sets made of amber, Christian IV’s porcelain-paneled privy, and an entire model ship made of ivory. Downstairs in the windowless, concrete vault sit the most important artifacts from Danish royal history, from Christian III’s Sword of State, to Christian IV’s crown and the Danish Crown Jewels. The King’s Garden outside is a wonderful park in which to relax, after frantically googling how you can marry into the royal family.
i Admission DKK 110, students DKK 70; guided tour DKK 45; guided tours daily at 2:10pm in summer season (check website for dates); no wheelchair accessibility in castle
CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE
Prins Jørgens Gård 1; 33 13 44 11; www.kongeligeslotte.dk/en; Royal Reception Rooms May-Sept
This is actually the third Christiansborg Palace erected here and there were two castles even before that. Today, it’s the seat of the Danish government, and, while the royal family no longer lives here (not since 1794, when the first Christiansborg burned down), one wing holds the Royal Reception Rooms, which are still used for official business. This area is open to the public, where you can see lavish marble-floored and velvet-curtained rooms in which Queen Margrethe II greets her guests. Blue, surgeon-style shoe covers are provided to protect the floors from the filth on your commoner shoes. Underneath the palace, visit the ruins of the first two buildings that existed here, Absalon’s Castle (which was knocked down for fun by the Germans) and Copenhagen Castle (which simply went out of style).
i Combination ticket, including Royal Reception Rooms, Royal Kitchen, Ruins, Royal Stables DKK 150, students DKK 125; tour of Royal Reception Rooms daily at 3pm, Royal Kitchen Sa 4pm, Ruins Sa noon; wheelchair accessible
NYHAVN
Open daily 24hr
Nyvavn is Copenhagen’s prime people-watching area. Its name literally means “new harbor” in English, but there’s nothing new about this place. It’s one of the most historic areas of the city with ancient wooden sailboats moored along the docks and steep-gabled, brightly-colored buildings on both sides of the canal. The streets are lined with cafés, ice cream shops, and even a gentlemen’s club, but don’t bother with any of them unless you’re into getting ripped off; there are plenty of places to get better food and cheaper beer. Instead, bring your own, or just enjoy the boats and buildings of this little slice of Copenhagen.
i Prices vary; wheelchair accessible
TIVOLI GARDENS
Vesterbrogade 3; 33 15 10 01; www.tivoli.dk/en; open summer M-Th 11am-11pm, F 11am-midnight, Sa 10am-midnight, Su 10am-11pm
Tivoli Gardens is the second-oldest amusement park in the world, and it’s thriving. There are copies all over Scandinavia, like Gröna Lund Tivoli in Stockholm and Tivoli Friheden in Aarhus, but they can’t hold a candle to the king. See, Tivoli is a true cultural hub, with top notch rides, fine dining restaurants, and live music in every genre from big band swing to hard rock. And unlike Trix, Tivoli’s not just for kids. Sure, there are plenty of stroller-pushing dads, but you’ll also find elderly couples swinging away on the dance floor and teenagers just looking for a good place to rip through a pack of cigarettes.
i Admission DKK 120, Friday after 7pm DKK 160, DKK 23 ride ticket; wheelchair accessible
VISIT CARLSBERG
Gamle Carlsberg Vej 11; 33 27 10 20; www.visitcarlsberg.com; open daily May-Sept 10am-8pm, Oct-Apr 10am-5pm
“Probably the best beer in the world,” is Carlsberg’s famous tagline. Try the Carlsberg “exbeerience” (yikes). This museum and temple to all things Carlsberg is housed in the original brewery, where you can learn about the history of the company, including how the original beer was a flop and that there was a the long and incredibly petty feud between the founder, J. C. Jacobsen, and his son. The museum also holds the world’s largest collection of unopened bottles—to the confusion of every college kid, because why wouldn’t you just open the bottle? Best of all, every admission ticket includes a free beer!
i Admission (includes one beer) DKK 100, students DKK 70; beer tasting DKK 75; guided tour DKK 50; beer tastings daily on the hour noon-6pm; guided tours daily on the hour 11am-6pm; last entry 30min. before closing; wheelchair accessible
LANDMARKS
CHURCH OF OUR SAVIOUR
Sankt Annæ Gade 29; 32 54 68 83; www.vorfrelserskirke.dk; church open daily 11am-3:30pm, tower May-Sept open 9:30am-7pm, Su 10:30am-9pm, Jan-Apr, Oct-Dec M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 10:30am-4pm
Staying in shape is tough while traveling. Gym access is pretty much zero, so if you’re craving leg day, try climbing the tower of this church. It’s one of the most recognizable of Copenhagen’s many spires with its gilded staircase that spirals up outside the tower. There are over 400 steps in all, and the climb, while worth it, is not for the faint of heart. Be sure to arrive right at opening or risk long lines. For the aerially challenged, the church itself is also fantastic, with an altar featuring marble columns and life-sized statues. The facade of the massive pipe organ on the back wall is carved in Baroque style, and features a bust of King Christian V. Who else?
i Admission M-Th DKK 40, students DKK 30, F-Sa DKK 45, students DKK 35; church wheelchair accessible, no wheelchair accessibility in tower
KRONBORG CASTLE
Helsingør; 49 21 30 78; www.kongeligeslotte.dk/en; open Jan-Mar T-Su 11am-4pm, open daily Apr-May 11am-4pm, June-Sept 10am-5:30pm, Oct 11am-4pm, Nov-Dec T-Su 11am-4pm
Kronborg is probably etched somewhere in the back of your mind, even if you’ve never heard the name before. Located north of Copenhagen in the town of Helsingør, this famous Renaissance castle was William Shakespeare’s inspiration for Elsinore, the Danish castle in every high school student’s worst nightmare, Hamlet. The castle was built so the Danish kings could control trade in the Baltic Sea (read: tax the absolute shit out of just about everyone). Kronborg incorporates Hamlet differently each year, from offering guided tours from the prince himself (that must be depressing) to using a full cast to act out scenes. If you don’t want scarring flashbacks to English class, explore the casemates, an underground network of tunnels with a statue of the local legend Holger Danske.
i Admission June-Aug DKK 140, students DKK 130; off-season DKK 90, students DKK 80; tours June-Aug daily noon, 1pm, 3pm, and 4pm; last entry 30min. before closing time; limited wheelchair accessibility
MUSEUMS
LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
Gammel Strandvej 13; 49 19 07 19; www.en.louisiana.dk; open Tu-F 11am-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-6pm
Despite the name, you won’t find any creole or crawfish at Louisiana (so-named by the original owner of the estate, who married three different women, all named Louise). What you will find is Denmark’s most-visited art museum, breathtaking panoramic views of the Øresund, and some of the strangest galleries you’ve ever seen. Past exhibitions have involved live, naked models, hallways filled with speakers projecting the sound of machine guns, and shoes made of rocks. It’s all very confusing, but luckily there are also more traditional galleries featuring well-known artists like Andy Warhol and Picasso. Overlooking the Øresund is a beautifully landscaped sculpture garden, with works by Alexander Calder and other prominent sculptors. Humlebæk is near Helsingør, so consider pairing Louisiana with a visit to Kronborg or the Maritime Museum.
i Admission DKK 125, students DKK 110; wheelchair accessible
DESIGN MUSEUM
Bredgade 68; 33 18 56 56; www.designmuseum.dk/en; open Tu 10am-6pm, W 10am-9pm, Th-Su 10am-6pm
The Danes are a famously beautiful people and Danish design is no different. The world of design is underappreciated, essential to daily life, and often completely ridiculous to normal people, and the Design Museum displays every aspect of Danish design, from the practical to the absurd. Consider, for instance, the Danish chair. Here, you can walk through a tunnel of 110 different chairs and watch the evolution of simple wooden stools into steel recliners and behemoths of oak and leather. Other exhibits showcase modern Danish designs with a focus on sustainability, with objects like bamboo bikes and Wi-Fi routers so good-looking you’d want to hang them on your wall.
i Admission DKK 100, students under 26 free; guided tours Su 2pm; last entry 30min. before closing; wheelchair accessible
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DENMARK
Ny Vestergade 10; 33 13 44 11; www.en.natmus.dk; open daily 10am-5pm
This is Denmark’s premier museum of cultural history, and damn does it cover a lot. It’s definitely a history museum, but there’s some pretty cool stuff in here. You’ll find golden hunting horns for bougie Vikings, a room dedicated entirely to the “art” of cosplay, and one of the world’s largest collections of rune stones (they actually exist). On the second floor, there’s an exhibit called Ethnographical Treasures, which contains an incredible collection of artifacts from all over the world, including a case full of fur anoraks and entire suits of samurai armor. If that’s all a bit too cultured for you, there’s also an entire exhibit dedicated to toys, which might be more up your alley.
i Admission DKK 75; tours July-Sept daily at 11am and 1pm; wheelchair accessible
THE CISTERNS
Søndermarken; 30 73 80 32; www.cisternerne.dk; open May Tu-Su 11am-7pm, June-July Tu-Su 11am-8pm, Aug Tu-Su 11am-7pm, Sept Tu-Su 11am-6pm, Oct Tu-Su 11am-5pm
The Cisterns are dank (in the literal sense—grow up). This massive, manmade cavern underneath Søndermarken, a park in Frederiksberg, used to hold fresh drinking water for the city, but thanks to modern technology it has been repurposed into a contemporary art exhibition. The Cisterns are dark, cool, and damp, and the exhibitions are similar, often focusing on themes of light, darkness, and water. Be prepared to walk over boardwalks and through clouds of mist, all in near-darkness. The exhibitions can be quite confusing, but at least it’s nice and cool down there!
i Admission DKK 60, students DKK 50; no wheelchair accessibility
OUTDOORS
CANAL BOAT TOUR
Nyhavn or Gammel Strand; 32 96 30 00; www.stromma.dk/en
Copenhagen is a city on the water, but a lot of that water is man-made. The canals that make up Nyhavn and Christianshavn were constructed by King Christian IV, who was trying to design the city to look more like Amsterdam to attract wealthy Dutch merchants. Spoiler alert: it didn’t work. The Dutch aren’t stupid and have no interest in Danish taxes, but the canals remain. That said, a canal boat tour is a great way to explore the city. Multiple tours leave daily from a few spots, including Nyhavn, and pass by multiple sights, including the opera house, the famous Little Mermaid statue, and Paper Island. Just remember to duck going under the low bridges, or risk the wrath of the captain and a nasty knock on the head.
i Most tours DKK 80; tours at least every 30-45min., starting at 9:30am, last tour varies, but as late as 9pm in the summer high season; no wheelchair accessibility
FOOD
GRØD ($)
Jægersborggade 50; 50 58 55 79; www.groed.com/en; open M-F 7:30am-9pm, Sa-Su 9am-9pm
Grød’s claim to fame is that it’s the world’s first porridge restaurant. Now, that may not sound exciting unless you’re a bear or a curly-haired blonde girl lacking common sense, but Grød is a big deal. The morning menu (served until 5pm) mainly consists of the oatmeal-type breakfasts with toppings like homemade caramel sauce, fresh fruit, or skyr (everyone’s favorite Icelandic pseudoyogurt product), but the afternoon menu (served from 11am) is practically gourmet. Try fried risotto with apples, roasted nuts, and mustard vinaigrette, or Asian congee with ginger and peanuts. As you might expect from a porridge restaurant, Grød has the whole coffee-in-mason-jar vibe going and emphasizes its use of seasonal and organic ingredients.
i Morning menu from DKK 45, afternoon menu from DKK 65; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; no wheelchair accessibility
NEXT DOOR CAFÉ ($)
Larsbjørnsstræde 23; 27 12 08 18; www.nextdoorcafe.dk; open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm
Too often, city center cafés are overpriced and underwhelming, filled with middle-aged tourist couples, reheated pastries, and generic jazz tracks. Not so with Next Door Café. This place is authentic, fun, and always hopping. The basement café is painted entirely in different shades of purple, and the young, tattooed staff bounces the music between pop and hip-hop favorites like Latch and Jason Drool (wait, is he still considered a favorite?). Grab an American-style breakfast of pancakes or a lunch sandwich on homemade bread, and squeeze in at one of the glass-topped tables proudly displaying a wild selection items like banknotes from around the world, hotel room keys, and boarding passes. Enjoy the youthful energy, but don’t get carried away and join in by accidentally leaving behind something important!
i Breakfast plates from DKK 40, lunch sandwiches from DKK 50, coffee and espresso drinks from DKK 20; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; no wheelchair accessibility
PALUDAN BOG & CAFÉ ($)
Fiolestræde 10; 33 15 06 75; www.paludan-cafe.dk; open M-Th 9am-10pm, F 9am-11pm, Sa 10am-11pm, Su 10am-10pm
Picture an aspiring author, furiously scribbling away on a yellow legal pad, surrounded by books and empty coffee cups, and you already have a good idea of what Paludan is like. It’s an all-day café and book store right in the heart of downtown Copenhagen filled with textured acrylic paintings, tables and decorations that toe the line between retro and shabby chic, and of course, books. All kinds of books, from paperback leaflets to leather-bound tomes, probably containing old secrets of alchemy, or unlikelier still, a proper English translation of hygge. The ground floor restaurant serves three meals a day, as well as a wide selection of coffee and espresso drinks, and since Paludan is right next to Copenhagen University, everything is reasonably priced.
i Coffee and espresso drinks from DKK 20, brunch plates from DKK 60; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible
NIGHTLIFE
BAKKEN
Flæsketorvet 19; www.bakkenkbh.dk; open W 9am-3am, Th-Sa 5pm-5am
Bakken is a no-nonsense, unpretentious nightclub in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district in Vesterbro, home to some of the city’s best nightlife. It’s the kind of place where the bouncer gives you the once over, and then remembers that Bakken lets just about everyone in. Energy levels are high, thanks to the soul-shaking electronic and dance music pumped out by weekend DJs, and even the bartenders want in on the fun, often drinking with the customers, each other, or just about anybody who will join them. Don’t expect to debate the finer points of philosophy here, but if you’re looking for a place that will blow out your eardrums, Bakken is a go-to.
i No cover, beer from DKK 30, mixed drinks from DKK 60, shots from DKK 25; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible
MIKKELLER BAR
Viktoriagade 8; 1655; 33310415; www.mikkeller.dk; open M-W 1pm-1am, Th-F 1pm-2am, Sa noon-2am, Su 1pm-1am
There are lots of microbreweries in Copenhagen, but Mikkeller is the darling of them all. It gained fame as a “gypsy” brewery (these guys are better at beer than at political correctness), meaning that it didn’t actually own its own brewery and relied mainly on collaborations. Today, it has locations all over the world, including several in the US, but the original is still its Vesterbro location. This basement bar has 20 ever-changing craft brews on tap. The whitewashed brick beer mecca is the place where people come for a drink after a long, six-hour Danish work day, whether they want to talk about beer, or simply enjoy it.
i Beer from DKK 55, bar snacks from DKK 30; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility
NØRREBRO BRYGHUS
Ryesgade 3; 35 30 05 30; www.noerrebrobryghus.dk; open M-Th noon-11pm, F-Sa noon-1pm, Su noon-10pm
The clink of glasses and murmurs of light chatter filter their way downstairs, where candlelight flickers across exposed brick walls. It’s Nørrebro Bryghus, a microbrewery. This place isn’t just for the casual beer lover, though. It’s for people who love drinking good beer, and don’t mind feeling classy while they do it. The whole place is dimly lit, in a somehow classy way, by bare, incandescent bulbs, and the ultramodern exposed ventilation ducts balance the retro feel of brick in the basement.
i Beer from DKK 65; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility
TEMPLE BAR
Nørrebrogade 48; 35 37 44 14; open M-W 3pm-2am, Th 3pm-3am, F-Sa 3pm-5am, Su 3pm-1am
Surprisingly, smoking indoors is not completely prohibited in Denmark; it’s legal in establishments smaller than 40 square meters. These bars have become local favorites all over Copenhagen, and Temple Bar is one of the best in Nørrebro. It’s a dive bar in the middle of one of the city’s hip neighborhoods that flatly rejects the maddening principles of Scandinavian simplicity. Cheap drinks, a student special on beer, and a pool table on the smoky second floor draw crowds of young people looking for a low-key place to drink and smoke. If you don’t want to smell like an ashtray, the first floor is smoke-free.
i Beer from DKK 40, shots and mixed drinks from DKK 25; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility
DENMARK ESSENTIALS
VISAS
Denmark is a member of the European Union and is part of the Schengen Area, so US citizens can stay in Denmark for up to 90 days without a visa.
MONEY
Denmark’s currency is the Danish krone, officially abbreviated DKK and locally used interchangeably with kr.
Credit/Debit Cards: Like in Sweden and Norway, cards are accepted at the vast majority of establishments, and some are even cash free. However, in Denmark, you are more likely to be charged a small fee for using an international card. The fee is usually small (no more than 3-4% of the value of the transaction), but consider cash if you’re worried, though it’s worth noting you could be charged a similar fee for withdrawing from a foreign ATM. Check with your bank about foreign fees.
Tipping: Tipping in Denmark is neither expected nor required; in fact, a service charge is normally included in the bill at most restaurants. As always, a tip is appreciated, so if you feel you received exceptional service, feel free to round up the bill or tip 5-10%.
Taxes: Like it’s Scandinavian neighbors, Denmark has a sky-high VAT rate of 25%, which is included in all prices. Tip: Some stores in Denmark, specifically those with a “Tax Free Worldwide” or “Global Blue” sticker, will refund the VAT for goods leaving the country. Be sure to ask at the counter for specifics, and to save receipts for any goods for which you hope to claim a refund.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Drugs and Alcohol: Though there is technically no drinking age in Denmark, there are purchasing ages, as well as laws aimed at preventing minors from getting alcohol. You must be 18 to be served in a bar or restaurant, or to purchase anything stronger than 16.5% ABV in stores. To purchase beverages weaker than 16.5% in stores, you must be 16.
BGLTQ+ Travelers: Denmark (and Copenhagen in particular) is very liberal in terms of BGLTQ+ rights. Hostels, restaurants, and nightlife establishments are very friendly towards the BGLTQ+ community, and cities like Copenhagen and Aarhus have extensive BGLTQ+ nightlife scenes.
