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FRANCE

France is like the popular student with prime real estate on the third page of the high school yearbook. The nation has been involved in so many of the major world events you learned about in world history that you can’t turn a corner in either its vibrant metropolises or idyllic country villages without bumping into something historic. World War II comes to life in Normandy, the extravagance that provoked the French Revolution can be found at Versailles, and the jaw-dropping wealth of the upper class in the South is extremely prominent. The French capital, Paris, is renowned around the globe for its fashion and food. In more recent years, Paris has been affected by the tragedies of the 2015 Charlie Hebdo shootings and 2017 attacks at Notre Dame and the Champs-Élysées. France has been at the center of global news networks battling political unrest, inequality, and international conflicts. The nation, throughout its conflicts and challenges, preserves its pride in being a center of history where life revolved around family, friends, food, and other simple pleasures that make life worth living. En bref, as the French would say, they work to live instead of living to work.

In the world’s yearbook—not just your high school’s—France would win superlatives like “Best Dressed” and “Most Likely to Become a Movie Star.” It’s a center for all the finer things in life: art, music, film, and food. It’s a country that made the definition of chic from the cosmopolitan center of Paris to the beaches of Saint-Tropez to the small towns of Aix-en-Provence. Explore the beautiful country from the misty farms and orchards of the north to the dramatic cliffs and crystal blue water of the Riviera. To travel in France is truly to wish you were French.

AVIGNON

Coverage by Julia Bunte-Mein

Avignon is a tranquil, medieval city in the Provence region of southern France that is a calm respite from the more bustling cities in France. Take a deep breath in this lavender-smelling walled destination and explore the Palais des Papes, Gothic cathedrals, and other Roman relics (all the sightseeing will, admittedly, take no more than one afternoon in this quaint town). You may be quick to say that you only need one day in Avignon, but its charm will grow on you and, if you stay a few nights, you’ll experience its wild side. Avignon changed hands from conqueror to conqueror for thousands of years and once held an extreme amount of power as the seat of the Catholic Church in the fourteenth century. Today, the town is definitely tamer; there’s no threat of the Roman or French empires invading, but you might have to look out for the breezy winds of Provence, known as le Mistral, which are fierce, unruly, and biting. Stay for a while, discover the history, and get to the nitty gritty of the subtle, understated culture of Avignon.

ORIENTATION

The medieval, walled city of Avignon is dense and easily navigable on foot. Le Gare Avignon Centre, the main train station, sits just outside the towering wall. To enter the city, simply walk through the gates, Porte de la République. The main street, Rue de la République, runs straight through the city and is lined with commercial stores. At the end of the street lies Le Place de l’Hortage, the largest (but still pretty small) square in Avignon. Keep going up from there, past the carousel, to the massive Palais des Papes. This is a huge complex that connects in the back to the beautiful gardens, Les Rocher des Doms. At the far end of the gardens is a lookout that has a steep staircase down to ground-level where you can access le Pont d’Avignon over the River Rhône.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

Avignon has a small international airport (AVN), but flights may be cheaper out of nearby Marseille (MRS) or Montpellier (MPL). From Marseille, you can access Avignon via an easy train or bus ride. Trains arrive at Gare d’Avignon-Centre, which is just across the street from Avignon’s old-city gates. TGV high-speed trains service the city from Gare d’Avignon TGV, which is a 5min. train ride from Gare Centre (€1.30).

GETTING AROUND

Avignon has local buses running along the outskirts of the medieval walls, but everything you want to see is inside the walls and easily walkable. Use the blue line (#5) to get to the Fort Saint-André, which is 3km outside the city (€1.40 single journey).

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: 41 Cours Jean Jaurès; 04 32 74 32 74; open M-F 9am-6pm, Su 10am-5pm; www.avignon-tourisme.com.

Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: BNP Paribas (39 Rue de la République; 0 820 82 00 01; open T-F 8:15am-12:15pm and 1:30pm-5:30pm, Sa 8:15am-12:30pm)

Post Offices: La Poste (4 Cours Président Kennedy; open M-W, F 9am-6pm, Th 9am-12:15pm and 2pm-6pm, Sa 9am-noon)

Internet: There is free Wi-Fi in tourist offices, as well as many surrounding cafés and restaurants.

BGLTQ+ Resources: www.gay-provence.org has tips on accommodations, restaurants, events and nightlife.

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: For non-emergencies, call the local police at 04 90 16 81 00.

US Embassy: The closest US consulate is in Marseille (12 Bd. Paul Peytral; 04 91 55 09 47; M-F 9am-noon and 2pm-5pm).

Rape Crisis Center: Rape Crisis Network Europe (www.inavem.org; 01 45 88 19 00).

Hospitals: Avignon Central Hospital (Centre Hospitalier Général, 305 rue Raoul Follereau; 04 32 75 33 33)

Pharmacies: Pharmacie Des Halles (52 Rue de la Bonneterie; 04 90 82 54 27; open M-Sa 8:30am-12:30pm and 2pm-7:30pm)

ACCOMMODATIONS

AUBERGE BAGATELLE ($)

25 Allée Antoine Pinay—Ile de la Barthelasse; 04 90 86 71 35; www.auberge-bagatelle.com

First things first, Bagatalle is primarily a campground, where many families stay in RVs or young people pitch tents. The hostel is definitely a large step up from sleeping outside, but it only comes with the bare minimum (no large storage lockers or blankets). White linoleum floors, happy-go-lucky murals, and bright bubble lettering on the walls makes it feel like it’s designed for young kids, but many ignore this because of the ridiculously cheap prices. From its location across the river, you’ll have great views of the old city at night.

i Dorms from €13; towels included; wheelchair accessible

POP’ HOSTEL ($$)

17 Rue de la République; 04 32 40 50 60; www.pophostel.fr; reception open 24hr

Right in the heart of Avignon, Pop will make your stay in Avignon convenient and pleasant. They offer clean, spacious bathrooms with individual toilets and showers, which is major key. The air-conditioned, carpeted dorms have modern bunks, each equipped with a privacy curtain, reading lamp, and two outlets. The balconies look right over the Rue de la Republique and the airtight windows do a good job of blocking out noise. Skip the €5 breakfast and instead come for the €1 wine during happy hour from 5pm-8pm in their colorful and modern bar-lounge area on the first floor. The one caveat is the strange and very dysfunctional Wi-Fi system, which involves a complicated process to get online.

i Dorms from €24; reservation required during the Festival of Avignon in July; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; towels for rent

SIGHTS

CULTURE

CATHÉDRALE NOTRE-DAME DES DOMS D’AVIGNON

Pl. du Palais; 04 90 82 12 21; www.cathedrale-avignon.fr; open summer M-Sa 7:30am-8:30pm, winter M-Sa 8am-8:30pm; mass M-Sa 7:30am-8:30am, Su 10am-11:30am

This pristine cathedral is like a twelfth-century Plaza Hotel. Built in three successive phases and renovated again in 1838, the cathedral underwent a major restoration in 2013, bringing it to tip-top condition. After 30 months of work, the dazzling structure, also known as the Basilique Metropole, was reopened in March 2016. The steadfast efforts clearly paid off, as the Romanesque nave, Gothic chapels, and ceiling frescos are truly marvelous. Check out the Baroque balconies, covered with angels and delicately carved leaves.

i Free; last entry 20min. before closing; wheelchair accessible

LANDMARKS

PALAIS DES PAPES

Pl. du Palais; 32 74 32 74; www.palais-des-papes.com; open daily July 9am-8pm, Aug 9am-8:30pm, Sept-Oct 9am-7pm, Nov-Feb 9:30am-5:45pm, Mar 9am-6:30pm, April-Jun 9am-7pm

Let’s be honest: Palais des Papes is most likely the reason you’re in Avignon. And yes, it’s expensive. And yes, you’ve already seen ten other Gothic buildings on your European tour. But a visit here is simply non-negotiable. Built in 1335, this colossal fortress, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the largest Gothic palace in Europe and attracts over 650,000 visitors a year. With over 25 rooms decorated in beautiful frescoes and faded wall paintings, its visuals are stunning with contemporary African art that creates a juxtaposition of eras and cultures. We recommend snagging the audio guide for €2, so you can learn about what the palace looked like in its prime and hear about its drama-filled history, soon to be adapted into the reality TV show: Nine Popes, One Palace: Who Will Survive?

i Admission €11, students €9; combined ticket with Pont d’Avignon €13.50, students €10.50; audio guide €2; last entry 1hr before closing; wheelchair accessible

PONT D’AVIGNON

Pont d’Avignon, Bd. de la Ligne; 04 32 74 32 74; www.avignon-pont.com/fr; open daily July 9am-8pm, Aug 9am-8:30pm, Nov 9am-7pm, Mar 9am-6:30pm, Apr-Jun 9am-7pm

The Pont d’Avignon, also called the Bridge of Saint-Benezet, wins the award for having the most confusing audio guide ever. As you walk on the old stones of this bridge to nowhere, listen to the legend of how a young shepherd, Benezet, received a divine order from God at age 12 to build a bridge in Avignon. The legend consists of Benezet developing superhuman strength to complete the project. When completed, the bridge stood, but the river eventually washed it away, which prompted an effort from Avignon locals to rebuild it, and the cycle continued. In all honesty, you cannot get a good view of the bridge while standing on it, but, the history lesson is interesting.

i Admission €5, students €4, combined ticket with Palais des Papes €13.50, students €10.50; free audio guide

MUSEUMS

MUSÉE DU PETIT PALAIS

Palais des Archevêques, Pl. du Palais; 04 90 86 44 58; www.petit-palais.org; open M, W-Su 10am-1pm and 2pm-6pm

This UNESCO World Heritage museum is home to one of the world’s greatest collections of medieval art. Its permanent collection includes over 300 Italian pre-Renaissance religious paintings, containing works by Botticelli, Carpaccio, and Giovanni di Paulo, as well as Gothic and Romanesque pieces from the fine arts school of Avignon. Juxtaposed against the towering Popes Palace, this small palace looks like a dollhouse, but, once you step inside, the two inner courtyards and airy main gallery give it an inexplicably majestic feel. Admire the frescoed ceiling and the ginormous sculptures and pottery (we swear we saw a sculpture taller than Michael Jordan). The highlight, however, is Botticelli’s La Vierge et L’enfant (1470).

i Admission €6, students €3; last entry 45min. before closing; guided tours available upon request; wheelchair accessible

FOOD

L’AMISTA ($)

23 Rue de la Bonneterie; 06 19 24 15 47; open daily noon-10pm

At this small bistro in the heart of the old village, you can find traditional Catalan tapas like house favorite patatas bravas con chorizo, pan con tomate, and gambas persillades. Avignon’s location in the south of France places it close to Catalonia, giving this place a more authentic vibe. Their most exciting offering is the caissette de tapas, which is a huge selection of tapas to share (minimum two people) that is served in a wooden crate. The terrace seating, just next to an ancient archway, is lovely, but take a moment to peek inside where there are decorations in a theme of the French children’s book series “Martine.” The bathroom is covered in pages from the picture book.

i Tapas from €3, charcuterie boards €8.50, large salads from €14, sangria €3; happy hour Th-Sa 6:30pm-8pm; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

E.A.T. ESTAMINET ARÔMES ET TENTATIONS ($$)

8 Rue Mazan; 04 90 83 46 74; www.restaurant-eat.com; open daily noon-2pm and 7pm-10pm

This lovely, secluded French restaurant is hidden on a tiny alleyway (follow the signs once you get to Place Crillon) and has only about a dozen tables, so you’ll be lucky if you even score a seat. Their a-la-carte menu, which changes on the regular, serves hearty and homey dishes, usually a balanced composition of a protein, grain, and some fresh, seasonal veggies. The cozy and neutral-tone interior reflects their simple, but very tasteful menu. Try the tender veal braised with rosemary or asparagus wrapped in a blanket of prosciutto, sprinkled with sliced almonds and poached cherry tomatoes.

i Entrées from €10, dessert from €6; reservation recommended; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

LE VINTAGE ($$)

10 Rue Galante; 04 86 65 48 54; open daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6:30pm-10:30pm

Le Vintage boasts quality bistronomie Provençale, serving traditional and modern French dishes of fresh and in-season produce. Serving over 60 types of regional wines, Le Vintage pairs its drinks perfectly with food of the highest quality made with only in-season fresh produce. We recommend coming for their set lunch menu, which is a bargain for the amount of food you get; the portion sizes are truly huge. If you’re lucky, you’ll snag a seat in the minuscule triangular square just outside the restaurant, although the air-conditioned interior is a nice break from the mid-August heat or windy fall days of Southern France.

i Entrées from €12; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NIGHTLIFE

AOC

5 Pl. Jérusalem; 04 90 25 21 04; www.aocavignon.fr; open M-T noon-2pm and 6pm-10:30pm, F-Sa noon-2pm and 6pm-11pm, Su noon-2pm and 6pm-10pm

AOC is a fabulous wine bar in the heart of Avignon. AOC allows you to play the best game of pretend wine-connoisseur of your life. Here’s how to play: 1. Listen to the waiter describe the subtle notes of honeysuckle in such-and-such regional wine. 2. Pick up your glass (cup it from the bottom for red and hold it by the stem for white). 3. Stick your nose inside, gracefully. 4. Swirl it, take a small sip, don’t swallow, but instead swish it in your mouth. 5. Watch the waiter’s respect for you go up tenfold, we promise. Correctly pair your wine (red with meat, white with seafood), or your effort will go to waste.

i Appetizers from €10, main courses from €15, lunch special €14.90; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

LALOGÈNE

1 Pl. Pie; 04 86 81 60 76; open daily 7:30am-1:30am

Lalogène is a lovely terrace café by day and the closest thing Avignon has to a club by night. Tourists are in the minority in this stylish, clean bar with blue bumping beats and extremely affordable drinks. Situated on the lovely Place Pie, either party inside or chill on the outdoor terrace, which is one of our favorite spots to spend a warm summer evening with old and new friends. The best part? Waiters constantly swing by to clear tables outside, so you won’t have to worry about empty beer bottles lying around as you’re trying to have a fun rendezvous at Lalogène.

i Beer and wine from €2.50, coffee from€1.10

ARLES

Picture sunbaked houses on narrow cobbled streets with off-kilter wooden window shutters and pink and green flower boxes. Fade-in on Arles and that’s exactly what you get. Arles looks straight out of a nineteenth-century impressionist oil painting. And, hey, now that we think of it, we’re feeling a little déjà vu because we actually have seen this scene before on a Van Gogh canvas. Van Gogh painted over 200 works around Arles, capturing its shady squares, Roman monuments, and lovely countryside. And, if you, for some reason, still aren’t sold, Arles also boasts a famous Roman arena where gladiators once fought to their deaths. The ruins of the amphitheater are quite well-worth a daytrip. The historic center of Arles is bordered by Boulevard Georges Clemenceau, which morphs into Boulevard des Lices, in the south. Boulevard Emile Combes constitutes the western border and the River Rhône runs on the northeastern edge of the city. The train station in the north is just a 15-minute walk from the entrance to Arles, which you will enter by passing a large roundabout and through La Porte de La Cavalerie. The main street from the gates leads you directly to the Roman Amphitheater (it’s ginormous—you can’t miss it). Continuing down Rue de la Gallade will take you right to L’Eglise de Saint-Trophime. Place du Forum is just a street away on your right, and the rest of sights are all within a few blocks from there.

GETTING THERE

There is a shuttle bus between Arles and Marseille-Provence Airport. Other nearby airports include Nîmes-Alès-Camargue and Montpellier-Mediterranee Airports. The Gare d’Arles (Av. Paulin Talabot) accepts high-speed (TGV) and regional (TEV) trains. The TGV is on the line from Paris-Lyon to Marseille-Saint-Charles train station. Paris-Arles direct trains connect Arles and Avignon (20min.), Marseille (50min.) and Nîmes (20min.). The fastest way to arrive from an international destination is via airplane to Marseille and connection to a train to Arles. The main bus station on is Bd. des Lices.

GETTING AROUND

Arles is easily walkable and requires no public transportation whatsoever. The tourist office provides maps that point out the best walking routes through the city to pass all the major sights. If walking isn’t your thing, there is a train that offers a 40min. tour of all the sites with commentary in six different languages from April to October. You could rent a bike, but roads in Arles lend themselves to bumpy rides.

Swing by…

LES ARÈNES (ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE)

1 Rond-Point des Arènes; 08 91 70 03 70; www.arenes-arles.com; open daily May-Sept 9am-7pm, Nov-Mar 10am-5pm, Apr-Oct 9am-6pm

Welcome to the arena. You’re in the middle of an enclosed sand pit and the stadiums are filled with 21,000 spectators. Let’s hope you brought your strappy leather sandals and metal vest because today you’ll be fighting against a fellow tourist to the death for an acceptable Instagram shot. The Roman amphitheater is where, centuries ago, gladiators fought bloody battles with wild animals before it became a fortress in the fifth century CE. Climb up the four towers added to each side of the oval for a great look down at the area and view of Arles on the opposite site.

i Admission €9, students €7; limited wheelchair accessibility

Check out…

THÉÂTRE ANTIQUE (ROMAN THEATRE)

8 Rue de la Calade; 04 90 18 41 20; open daily Jan 9am-noon, Feb 10am-noon and 2pm-5pm, Mar-Apr 9am-noon, May-Sept 9am-7pm, Oct-Dec 9am-noon and 2pm-6pm

Eager for more oval-shaped, tiered Roman relics? You’re in luck! Just around the corner from Les Arènes is the less visually impressive, but still historically fascinating Roman Theatre. The theatre—not to be confused with its neighboring relic—was built in the time of Augustus and had 33 tiers to hold 8,000 spectators. Unlike its amphi-counterpart, this theatre has had a much harder time holding up over the years, mainly because it was employed as a quarry in the Middle Ages to provide stone for the surrounding town wall. Save two, all the columns are mere stumps, giving the ruins an ancient Stonehenge feeling.

i Admission €9, students €7, with Liberty Pass admission €12, students €10; wheelchair accessible

Grab a bite at…

L’HUILE FAD’OLI

44 Rue des Arènes; 04 90 49 70 73; open daily noon-midnight

If you’re looking for a delicious meal that won’t break the bank, Fad’Oli is the spot. Just on the corner of Place du Forum, this brightly-colored, petite restaurant with four red and yellow tables outside serves gourmet baguette sandwiches, large “Fadola” sandwiches, and (perhaps strangely) sushi. Around the restaurant there are giant barrels of olive oil on tap since, if you couldn’t tell from the name, olive oil is their specialty. Drizzled on top of salads and sandwiches (and let’s hope not the sushi), this liquid gold adds rich flavor to even the simplest of ingredients. Inside, you can read the descriptions of each gold-medal winning oil (yes, there are competitions for these things), and you can even buy a bottle to-go.

i Sandwiches from €4, salads from €6, sushi from €10; vegan and vegetarian options available

Don’t miss…

FONDATION VAN GOGH

35 Rue du Dr Fanton; 04 90 93 08 08; open daily Apr-Sept 11am-7pm; open Mar Tu-Su 11am-6pm

In 1888, when the renowned artist left Paris behind for the South, Van Gogh welcomed the light, sun, and rugged landscapes of Provence. Here, he painted like wildfire, producing over 200 works in just a few years. Every year, the Fondation Van Gogh exhibits a rotating selection of his works. Only about ten are on display at once, but the small number allows you to really take in each one at full value as you stare at each saturated color, unusual perspective, and evidence of compositional genius. After you pay your respects, tour the sleek, white galleries of Van-Gogh’s contemporaries before heading to the geometric rooftop terrace.

i Admission €9, students €4; last entry 45min. before closing; 75min. guided tours daily at 11:30am and 3pm €4; wheelchair accessible

BIARRITZ

Coverage by Julia Bunte-Mein

This getaway in France’s Basque country is aware of its elite status. When Napoléon III and his Spanish wife, Empress Eugénie, started summering here in the mid-nineteenth century, it became the go-to beach resort for European royalty. Not much has changed. Today, the Hôtel du Palais still glimmers in the sunlight, and linen-clad Europeans shop at Goyard and Hermès. Despite its glamorous (read: expensive) reputation, Biarritz has at least one free source of entertainment: the ocean. Young travelers from all over the world come to cruise the swooping waves, filling up bars and clubs that would otherwise be empty.

ORIENTATION

Biarritz has four main beaches that stretch from the Pointe Saint Martin Lighthouse to La Plage de Milady. The downtown area is located along these beaches, and is the hub of activity in the immediate region. The seaside trail, Le Circuit Bord de Mer, will take you from the lighthouse to La Grande Plage, Biarritz’s most popular beach, passing the Hôtel du Palais. If you continue along the coast, past the Port du Pecheûr (Fisherman’s Port), you’ll run into the Pointe Atalaye, from which the Virgin Rock extends. On the southern side of the Virgin Rock lie the aquarium, Plage Port Vieux, Plage de la Côte de Basques (home to the best waves in town), Plage de la Marbella, Plage Milady, and finally La Cité de L’ocean, the ocean-themed interactive museum. A few more miles south are the towns of Bidart and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Just inland of the coast is Rue Gambetta, Biarritz’s main drag, which leads to Les Halles, the central market. Just beyond that is Place Georges Clémenceau, a neighborhood known for its great restaurants and exciting nightlife scene.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

Biarritz has its own airport situated just outside of town that receives international and domestic flights. From there, you can take Bus #6 into the city center. Gare de Biarritz is the town’s central train station. From there, it is about a 10min. drive or 20min. bus ride (#8) into the city center. Regional buses connect Biarritz to neighboring destinations like Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Hendaye, and San Sebastian.

GETTING AROUND

The city center of Biarritz is quite compact, and easily navigable on foot. However, the town is very hilly, and if you’re not one to enjoy hiking up hills all day, consult the bus schedule. The public buses (1hr ticket €1; 24hr ticket €2; purchase directly from driver), called Chronoplus, are the cheapest and most reliable way to get around Biarritz and the surrounding towns of Anglet and Bayonne. Bus #8 takes you from the train station to the center.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: Square d’Ixelles; 5 59 22 37 00; open daily 9am-7pm

Banks/ATMs/Currency: Barclays Bank (7 Av. Edouard VII; 5 59 22 44 44; open M-F 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm)

Post Offices: Correus (17 Rue de la Poste; open M-F 9:30am-5:30pm, Sa 9:30am-12:30pm)

Internet: Free, functional Wi-Fi is available in most restaurants and cafés.

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: The local police station is located 1 Av. Joseph Petit (5 59 01 22 22l; open 24hr).

Rape Crisis Center: Rape Crisis Network Europe (01 45 88 19 00; www.inavem.org)

Hospitals:

• Clinic Aguilera (21 Rue de l’Estagnas; 825 13 50 64; open daily 24hr)

Pharmacies: Pharmacie de L’Océan (7 Pl. Georges Clemenceau; 5 59 24 00 08; open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm)

ACCOMMODATIONS

NAMI HOUSE ($$)

14 Rue de Tartilon; 05 40 48 02 82; www.nami-house-anglet.fr; reception open daily 8am-noon and 2pm-5pm

Part Japanese Zen garden, part Hawaiian bungalow, and part Australian surfer hostel, Nami House feels more like a guest house than a dormitory. Nami’s interior—decorated with orchids, succulents, paper lanterns, bamboo cabinets, and large murals to create an tranquil ambience—is quite a welcome surprise compared to its relatively unassuming exterior. Enjoy a glass of wine in a chaise lounge on the terraced veranda before heading upstairs for a comfortable night in one of Nami’s spacious bunks.

i Dorms from €28, private rooms available; reservation recommended; min. stay 2 nights; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; lockers available; free breakfast

SURF HOSTEL BIARRITZ ($$$)

27 Av. de Migron; 06 63 34 27 45; www.surfhostelbiarritz.com; reception open Apr-Oct daily 8am-noon and 2pm-5pm

Providing its guests with a restful night of sleep, filling continental breakfast (none of that meager bread and jam bullshit), and a complimentary board, Surf is more B&B than hostel. As its name implies, this establishment is really made for surfers, but don’t be deterred if you lack shredding experience. Surf Hostel Biarritz recently partnered with a surf school; opt into taking a lesson or pester one of your surfer bunkmates enough and you’ll be on your feet in no time.

i Dorms from €38; reservation recommended; min. stay 3 nights; Wi-Fi; laundry facilities; free breakfast; kitchen

SIGHTS

CULTURE

CHAPELLE IMPÉRIALE (PARISH OF NOTRE DAME DU ROCHER)

4 Rue Saint Martin; 05 59 23 08 36; www.paroisse-biarritz.fr/eglises/chapelle-imperiale.php; open Jun-Sept Th, Sa 2pm-6pm; Sept-Dec Sa 2pm- 5pm; Mar-Jun Sa 2pm-6pm

Built in 1864 near Napoleon III’s summer villa, the chapelle has a deep purple exterior that encases a Hispano-Moorish interior, decorated with wooden paneling and ornately-painted and tiled walls. Known as the “Jewel of Biarritz,” the chapel was designed by French architect Émile Boeswillwald and can be toured by appointment only. The limited hours are tricky to navigate, so make sure to plan accordingly in advance of your trip.

i Admission €3; wheelchair accessible; guided tours available by appointment

LANDMARKS

PHARE DE BIARRITZ

60 B Espl. Elisabeth II; 05 59 22 37 10; open daily 2pm-6pm

The Phare de Biarritz, which was constructed in 1834 and is still operational, stands a whopping 73-meters above sea level, offering stunning views of the Basque coast and Atlantic Ocean. The plot of the lighthouse is crawling with hydrangeas (and tourists, especially during sunset), peppered with tamarisk trees, and crisscrossed by a network of pebbled pathways. Pro-tip: arrive early to beat the lines.

i Admission €2.50; no wheelchair accessibility

PORT DES PÊCHEURS

Allée Port des Pêcheurs; open daily 24hr

Biarritz’s Port des Pêcheurs dates back to its humble fishing-village days. The port was rebuilt in the nineteenth century but it still has its original crampottes, the picturesque fisherman houses outfitted with wooden doors and colorful shutters. At low-tide, the port completely drains out, leaving a huge stretch of tide pools kids flock to with nets to catch crabs. To the right of the port is a small beach that provides a great alternative to the crowded Grande Plage, as well as a selection of delicious seafood restaurants. Before you leave, make sure to check out Crampotte 30, a tapas and wine bar housed in one of the original crampottes.

i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility

ROCHER DE LA VIERGE

Allée Port des Pêcheurs; 05 59 22 37 10; open daily 9:30am-7pm

The Virgin Rock is the emblematic symbol of and largest tourist attraction in Biarritz. It’s no Eiffel Tower, but the metal footbridge was designed by the landmark’s namesake, which is close enough. Located between Port-Vieux and Port des Pêcheurs on the promontory of Atalaye, the bridge joining the rock formation to the mainland was originally wooden, built on the orders of Napoleon III, who decided to drill a tunnel through the formation and use it as an anchor point for the sea wall of the Port du Refuge. Despite enduring centuries of damage by the Atlantic, the monument, consecrated in 1865, still stands strong today. Walk across and behold the beauty of the ocean before you, statue above you, and city behind you.

i Free; no wheelchair accessibility

SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ

Just a 15-minute train ride from Biarritz, the small fishing port of Saint-Jean-de-Luz is more relaxed, humble, and charming than its northern counterpart.

This is an exclusive holiday destination, but the wealth is so nearly as in-your-face. Buildings are beautiful, but not luxurious, and streets are busy but not overflowing with tourists. It has a certain… douceur de vivre, with its picturesque port, golden-sand beach, narrow pedestrian streets, traditional baserris (farmhouses) and glorious history. Saint-Jean-de-Luz was founded as a fishing and whaling port, but rose up to the level of aristocracy after King Louis XIV and wife Maria Theresa wed here in 1660. Only 10km from the Spanish border, this small beach town has a Basque vibe. It shares a bus and train station (Gare St. Jean de Luz-Ciboure) with the city of Ciboure. The center of Saint-Jean-de-Luz is found between the fisherman’s port to the southwest and La Baie de St. Jean de Luz et Ciboure around the northwest bend, and is pressed up against Le Grande Plage. Place Louis XIV is the main square and Rue Léon Gambetta, running parallel to the beach and lined with specialty stores, is the town’s main pedestrian thoroughfare. During your visit, walk down Promenade Jacques, which starts at the lighthouse and continues down to a sprawling beach.

GETTING THERE

The town shares a train station with Ciboure and receives local trains from surrounding towns, including Biarritz and Bayonne, and is included on the SNCF Bordeaux-Irun and high-speed TGV Paris-Madrid train lines. Buses run frequently between Saint-Jean-de-Luz and neighboring Bayonne, Biarritz, and Hendaye. Ouibus, TCRB, and Basque Bondissant are the major bus companies. Saint-Jean-de-Luz is only a 20min. drive from Biarritz and a 30min. drive from San Sebastian. It is located off highway A-63.

GETTING AROUND

You can walk from one side of Saint-Jean-de-Luz to the other in less than 20min., so your feet are all you need! If you want to check out the neighboring town of Ciboure, however, a shuttle bus named Itzulia runs between the two towns year-round (tickets €1). There is also a free shuttle that arrives every 30min. during the summer months connecting the Chantaco and Parc des Sports parking lots in the outskirts of the port to the town center.

Swing by…

MAISON LOUIS XIV

6 Pl. Louis XIV; 05 59 26 27 58; www.maison-louis-xiv.fr; open July- Aug daily 10:30am-12:30pm and 2:30pm-6:30pm; daily visits Sept-Oct, Apr-June at 11am, 3pm, 4pm, and 5pm

Designed by ship-builder Joannis Lohobiague and originally known as Lohobiague-Enea, the house changed its name after the king visited in 1660. Here, Louis signed the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659 to end the ongoing conflict with Spain, and also married the Spanish Infanta Maria Teresa. If only we could solve all of our twenty-first-century problems by joining together warring nations through marriage. Take a 40-minute guided tour to see the seventeenth-century furniture, splendid painted beams, and poodle-haired family portraits. In the bedroom, notice the table with human-like legs as well as the ridiculously short bed. Apparently, Louis XIV used to sleep half-sitting out of fear of suffocating to death while lying under his sheets!

i Admission €6, students €3.80; guided visits only; tours every 40min. July-Aug, last tour 30min. before close, arrive 5min. before tour; no wheelchair accessibility

Check out…

L’ÉGLISE SAINT JEAN BAPTISTE

Rue Léon Gambetta; 05 59 26 08 81; open Apr-Sept M-Sa 8:30am-6:30pm, Su 8am-7:30pm; Oct-Mar M-Sa 8:30am-6pm, Su 8am-7:30pm

Just off the commercial pedestrian street Rue Gambetta, you’ll find the historic church where Louis XIV and Maria Theresa tied the royal knot. Although the outside isn’t that special, the interior is definitely fit for an imperial marriage. As soon as you enter, your eyes will be drawn to the front of the church, where the central nave is decorated with intricate floral patterns, ornate carvings, and golden statues. Look up at the red and gold ceilings, stained-glass skylight, and fleur-de-lis-adorned side chapels. In stark contrast to the front of the church, the back has a clear traditional Basque influence. There, you’ll find three-tiered balconies of dark wood and a giant sailboat hanging from the ceiling.

i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility

Grab a bite at…

LA TAVERNE BASQUE

5 Rue de la République; 05 59 26 01 26; open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 7pm-10pm, Su noon-2pm

Rue de la République, the little street between Place Louis XIV and La Grande Plage, is the place to go for traditional Basque food, and of the many restaurants that line it, La Taverne Basque is the obvious choice. Enjoy a bowl of toro soup, split a Serrano ham charcuterie board, and savor a grilled duck with honey-balsamic glaze, and wash it all down with a pitcher of sangria. The portions are large and the food is relatively inexpensive, but, if you find yourself craving more, stop in one of the street’s many pastry shops to try a gâteau Basque, an almond-based cake filled with vanilla, rum, or cherry-flavored cream.

i Three-course meal €19.90; vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility

Don’t miss…

LA GRANDE PLAGE

Promenade Jacques Thibaut

While Saint-Jean-de-Luz’s port and pedestrian streets are admittedly adorable, it is the town’s sandy shore that attracts thousands every summer. Unlike Biarritz, where you have a plethora of fantastic beaches to choose from, this is the beach to visit in Saint-Jean-de-Luz and, accordingly, it is usually packed during the summer months. Also, unlike Biarritz, it’s as flat as a pancake. Nestled in a protected bay, you’ll see lots of paddle boarders, swimmers, and motor boats gliding over the smooth water. La Grande Plage is the picture of summer in France: a mosaic of striped rainbow beach umbrellas, topless women, and men in speedos framed by turquoise water.

i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility

MUSEUMS

PLANÈTE MUSÉE DU CHOCOLAT

14 Ave. Beau Rivage; 05 59 23 27 72; www.planetemuseeduchocolat.com; open July-Sept daily 10am-7pm, Oct-June M-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 2pm-6:30pm

You could be like everyone else and go to the aquarium or Cité de L’ocean, but if you aren’t feeling particularly aquatic, we recommend heading to this adorable and hilarious chocolate museum. Upon arrival, you’ll be handed a bag of chocolates (if that’s not already enough of an incentive, we don’t know what is). The tour begins with an educational video of the cacao bean, tracing its history from legend of the Aztec deity Quetzalcoatl to King Louis XIII obsession’s with hot chocolate. All of the descriptions are in French, but the close-up shots don’t need translation. The second half of the visit includes a trip to a sculpture gallery, some of which are quite scandalous (read: a chocolate rendition of Désir by Rodin), and cabinets full of bizarrely-shaped chocolate molds (read: rifles and llamas. How appetizing!).

i Admission €6.50, students €5, guided tour groups of 15+ €4.50; ticket office closes at 6pm; wheelchair accessible

OUTDOORS

BIARRITZ BEACHES

Open daily 24hr (weather permitting)

You already know that Biarritz is famous for its beaches, but you may not know which one is best for you. Le Grande Plage, the closest one to the center of town, is popular among surfers and bathers alike for its easy access, broad swatch of sand, and huge waves. There is a narrow swimming area delineated by two flags; if you venture outside of it, lifeguards will yell at you and chase you down (believe us, we tried). To the northeast is Plage Miramar, close to the rocky area just south of the Phare de Biarritz. Plage Miramar is also great for surfing, but a little more dangerous. Sandwiched between of the Port des Pêcheurs and Le Grand Plage is the quiet, small Plage Port Vieux. This protected spot is popular for families because it has no waves or wind, and it also boasts a convenient location adjacent to Biarritz’s diving clubs and seafood bars. Around the Pointe Atalaye is the long, open Plage Côte des Basques—the ultimate surfing beach where you can rent a board or take a lesson. Note that during high tide, the beach is not open for lounging as the water brushes up against the cliffs.

i Free

FOOD

EDEN ROCK CAFÉ ($$)

6 Pl. Port Vieux; 659681824; open daily 11am-2am

Located just north of Le Plage Port View, this cliff-side restaurant dangles right over the shimmering ocean, with direct views of the Rocher de la Vieux. Eden Rock Café’s menu is simple—chipirons (cuttlefish), chili, fries, beer, sangria—but extensive, and the food is much cheaper than other restaurants in the area. The true draw of Eden Rock, however, is not the food, but its canopied outdoor patio. Arrive early enough and you’ll be able to snag a table on its perimeter, one of the best places, in our humble opinion, to watch the sun set in Biarritz.

i Sangria from €3, cocktails from €7.50, appetizers from €8, entrées from €12; vegetarian options available

IL GIARDINO ($$$)

5 R. du Ctre; 05 59 22 16 41; www.ilgiardino-biarritz.com; open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 7pm-11pm, Su 7pm-11pm

Come to Il Giardino to treat yourself to an exquisite meal that won’t break the bank. This Italian restaurant serves homemade, melt-in-your-mouth pasta, along with all sorts of freshly-prepared meat, fish, and vegetable dishes. Take your pick of linguini, spaghetti, gnocchi, or risotto—we loved the linguine nero di sepia (squid in its ink)—in the “simple” or “complete” size. For dessert, soothe your sweet tooth with the tiramisu and panna cotta—they’re both delicious.

i Appetizers from €6, entrées from €14, wine €5; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible; reservation recommended

MIREMONT SALON DE THÉ ET PATISSERIE ($)

1bis Pl. Georges Clemenceau; 05 59 24 01 38; www.miremont-biarritz.fr; open daily 9am-8pm

This tearoom and pastry shop is truly the king of all bakeries. Dating back to the nineteenth century, the shop was frequented by European royalty like King Edward VII of England and King Alphonso XIII of Spain, the latter of which loved it so much that he appointed its founder to the country’s Royal House. And the pastries truly do live up to their royal heritage. Miremont’s display case features layered millefeuilles, macarons, lemon tarts, chocolate mousse delicacies, éclairs, and more, all topped with edible gold and Miremont’s confectioner crest. The interior of the shop is equally over-the-top, featuring baby pink walls, crystal chandeliers, and grand siècle ceilings. Pastry prices are a bit steep, so we recommend ordering yours to-go, which will automatically knock €2 off the top.

i Cakes to-go from €3.50, to-stay €5.50

NIGHTLIFE

DUPLEX

24 Av. Edouard VII; 05 59 24 65 39; www.nightclub-biarritz.com; open daily 7pm-6am

The population in Biarritz consists of two very distinct crowds: posh vacationers and young surfers. As its name suggests, Duplex accommodates both by leaning into the city’s naturally-occurring dichotomy, funneling anyone above the age of 25 upstairs to the “Cotton Club” and anyone below that age downstairs to “Pulp.” Despite their absurd names, both floors are surprisingly lit. Cotton Club may be more chic with its arched ceilings, glowing blue bar, and VIP lounges, but Pulp is where the real party happens. Here, you can order a vodka and orange juice concoction that’s almost as sugary as the daddies upstairs, and dance the night away to the rapid thumping of house music.

i Cover €12 (includes one free drink), cocktails from €1; wheelchair accessible

NEWQUAY BAR

20 Pl. Georges Clemenceau; 05 59 22 19 90; open daily 9am-midnight

A student hideaway in the middle of glitzy Biarritz, Newquay Bar is consistently packed with English-speaking Australians, Americans, South Africans, and tons of non-French-speaking Europeans. Unlike its neighbors, this pub is unpretentious, serving cheap beers, salty food, and ciders imported from Cornwall, England. It’s the perfect a relaxed environment to meet other travelers, listen to live music, or watch the latest football match.

i Beer from €2, drinks from €5; wheelchair accessible

BORDEAUX

Coverage by Kristine Guillaume

Welcome to Wine Country. A city loaded with culture and, perhaps obviously, wine, Bordeaux has truly earned its place as the epicenter of beauty and sophistication in southwestern France. Years ago, when the city rose to fame for its bustling Chartons district, where wine merchants perfected blends of reds and whites, merchants and owners of the renowned châteaus wrote about the port, calling it the Port of the Moon, for its stunning, ornate architecture along the Garonne River. Today, the glistening reflections of landmarks such as Place de la Bourse and unmistakable Belle Époque architecture in the water make it impossible to question the Bordeaux’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Yet, even with its ancient Roman and French history, the city has transformed from the Belle au Bois Dormant (Sleeping Beauty) to a bustling, cosmopolitan center with a trendy student nightlife scene and outdoor concert venues on the river. Not too far from the main city are Atlantic beach towns just a bus ride away if you’re looking to enjoy the surf and sun. Let’s make a toast—of Merlot, Claret, or Chardonnay—to Wine Country. Here’s to Bordeaux.

ORIENTATION

The Garonne River divides Bordeaux in two parts, with its center on the western bank. Les Quais, the riverfront boardwalk, stretches between the two main bridges, Pont de Pierre and Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas. Along Les Quais, you’ll find everything from skate parks to green spaces to restaurants. The main attraction along the boardwalk, however, is the city center at Place de la Bourse, in front of which is Miroir d’Eau. The city center, also called Vieille Ville (Old City) opens up to Promenade Sainte-Catherine, the longest pedestrian street in Europe lined with cafés, restaurants, and boutiques. To the north of Vielle Ville is the Triangle D’Or neighborhood, the wealthiest area in all of Bordeaux, where you’ll find three main boulevards at have vertices at Le Grande Théàtre, Place Gambetta, and Place Tourny. North of Vielle Ville is the famous Chartrons district, known for its former status as a port city and even farther north is an industrial area, which is home to Base Sous Marine and the decanter-shaped Cité du Vin. South of Vielle Ville is the Saint Michel neighborhood, known for having the highest concentration of ethnic food in Bordeaux. On the eastern bank of the Garonne is the Bastide area, where you can find outdoor spaces like Darwin Ecosystème.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

If flying, you’ll land at Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport, which is 9km from the city center. The Jetbus (€7) runs directly between the airport and the main train station, Gare Saint Jean, every 30min. The ride itself is 30min. To save money (like the responsible budget-conscious backpacker that you are), you can take the Line 1 bus (€1.40) to Gare Saint-Jean. If arriving by train, you’ll dock at Gare Saint-Jean, which is a 15min. tram ride away from the city center. Take tram line C to Place de la Bourse (€1.60).

GETTING AROUND

The tramway is the most convenient mode of public transportation in the city. Trams depart roughly every 5min. from street-side stops (single ride €1.60). The most essential tram lines are Line C, which runs to the city center (Place de la Bourse) and Line B, which runs to Cité du Vin and Cathédrale Saint-Andre. Another option is to use Bordeaux’s city bikes, VCub, with docking stations throughout the city (24hr pass €1.60). Take the ferry (€2) acro, which runs from the Stalingrad station on the eastern bank to Quinconces on the eastern. Also, the Transports Bordeaux Métropole (TBM) operates over 80 bus lines that serve the greater urban Bordeaux area.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: 12 Cours du 30 Juillet; 05 56 00 66 00; www.bordeaux-tourisme.com; open M-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 2pm-7pm

Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: There are BNP branches with accessible located near the Opéra and in the Chartrons district (BNP Paribas Bordeaux: 40 Cours du Chapeau-Rouge; 820 82 00 01; open M-F 9am-5:30pm).

Post Offices: La Poste Bordeaux (29 Allée de Tourny; open M 9am-6pm, Tu 10am-6pm, W-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-noon)

Public Restrooms: You can easily find public restrooms, labeled “Toilettes,” along the banks of the Garonne River. There is one located just in front of Place de la Bourse.

Internet: Bordeaux is covered with public Wi-Fi spots. Simply click “Wifi Bordeaux” on your phone network. Free Wi-Fi is also offered in all municipal buildings, including the tourist office.

BGLTQ+ Resources: LGBT Association of Aquitaine; www.le-girofard.org

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: Hôtel de Police, Commissariat Central (23 Rue François de Sourdis; 05 57 85 77 77; open daily 24hr)

US Embassy: There is a US consulate in Bordeaux (89 Quai des Chartrons; 01 43 12 48 65).

Rape Crisis Center: Rape Crisis Network Europe (www.inavem.org; 01 45 88 19 00)

Hospitals: Hôpital Saint André (1 Rue Jean Burguet; 05 56 79 56 79; open daily 24hr)

Pharmacies: Pharmacie (30 Pl. des Capucins; 05 56 91 62 66; open daily 24hr)

ACCOMMODATIONS

HOSTEL 20 ($$)

20 Rue Borie; 06 65 52 16 80; www.hostel20.fr; reception open 24hr

Staying at Hostel 20 feels like you’re staying at someone’s house. And that’s kind of because you are. The hostel allows young 20-somethings from across the globe to volunteer their time working in exchange for free extended lodging. As a result, Hostel 20 creates a quirky, homey, and social atmosphere, complete with regular beds (read: no bunks!), cheap rental bikes (€3-5), and nightly hostel home-cooked dinners (€5). Meals include paella, pasta, and breakfast for dinner at a much-cheaper price than any restaurant in the surrounding Chartrons district. The hostel boasts a great location and provides a surge protector to every bed in the rooms, but loses points since the doors of the actual dormitories don’t actually lock, so be sure to lock your valuables in the small lockers in each individual room.

i Dorms from €27; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens, towels included; lockers available; laundry €4; breakfast €2

AUBERGE DE JEUNESSE BORDEAUX ($$)

22 Cours Barbey; 05 56 33 00 70

It may come as a surprise that there are only two hostels in Bordeaux, but Auberge de Jeunesse was the only one until Hostel 20 sprouted in 2015. An organized and functional place to stay, the hostel provides comfortable lodging with an expansive kitchen in which you can prepare your own meals to avoid steep restaurant prices. Although the hostel boasts bright pink and lime green common areas and a balcony, it is less social than its budget-accommodation counterpart, but makes up for this with its convenient location, which is just 10 minutes from the city center on foot.

i Dorms from €24; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; linens included; lockers available; full kitchen

SIGHTS

CULTURE

LA CITÉ DU VIN

134 Quai de Bacalan; 05 56 16 20 20; www.laciteduvin.com/fr; open daily 9:30am-7:30pm

La Cité du Vin is an impressive architectural feat: the structure itself is modeled after a decanter, so you already know that this glitzy, brand-spanking-new sight isn’t going to disappoint. Established in 2016, Cité du Vin quickly overshadowed its younger sister, Musée du Vin et du Négoce, with its extensive exhibits about wine, modern features, and wine tastings. At the end of the day, we appreciated the smaller sibling a little bit more. Call us old-fashioned, but we’d rather have the three wine tastings in the Chartrons district than the two Cité du Vin offers (more is better, especially when it comes to wine). Plus, the entrance to La Cité du Vin is steep at €20. Yeah, you heard us. €20.

i Admission €20, reduced €14; limited wheelchair accessibility

PALAIS GALLIEN

Rue du Docteur Albert Barraud; 33 5 56 00 66 00; open daily

Bordeaux is just under 1000 miles from Rome, but, even with that distance, you’re bound to find a piece of Roman history. Located just a few blocks away from the Jardin des Plantes, Palais Gallien is a Gallo-Roman amphitheatre that holds the very prestigious title of the oldest Roman ruin in Bordeaux. Although it serves today as a shelter for French pigeons, it has managed to keep its majesty throughout the centuries of wear and tear by even the most unsuspecting of guests (rumor has it that Palais Gallien was a hang-out spot for prostitutes and witches in the seventeenth century). Walk by at night to see the structure lit up courtesy of the bright lights implanted in the ground.

i Free; daily tours €3 June 1-Sept 30 10:30am-3:30 pm, evening visits €5 Sa 9:30pm in July-Aug; wheelchair accessible

LANDMARKS

BASILIQUE SAINT-MICHEL

Pl. Meynard; 05 56 94 30 50; open daily 8am-noon and 1pm-6pm

The city of Bordeaux may be a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but the Basilique Saint-Michel is one all on its own. This fourteenth-century basilica, although a bit of a walk from the city center, is well worth a trip to the Saint-Michel area. The interior is typical of a gothic European cathedral, bearing some similarity to the nearby Cathédrale Saint-André, but it has an older, more lived-in feel. Take a walk around the basilica and then climb its bell tower, the Fleche de St. Michel, for a leg workout and fantastic view of the city below. On Fridays and Sundays, you’ll find an outdoor market of the antique and produce varieties in the adjacent square.

i Free; tower and crypt €5, students €3.50; last entry 30min. before closing; limited wheelchair accessibility

CATHÉDRALE SAINT-ANDRÉ

Pl. Pey Berland; 05 56 52 68 10; open daily June-Sept 10am-1pm and 3pm-7:30pm (until 7 pm on Su in July and Aug); daily Oct-May 10am-noon and 2 pm-6 pm (until 7 pm on M, W, Sa); closed on M mornings year-round

Take a deep breath because you’re about to have it taken away. The Cathédrale Saint-André, also known as the Bordeaux Cathedral, stands tall in the middle of Place Pey-Berland with its magnificent gothic architecture of the Aquitaine region. The inside is an absolute masterpiece first constructed in the fifth or sixth century. Over many years, the Bordelaise have made improvements to the structure, elevating the nave with pointed arches, restoring the giant organ, and opening the royal portal. The cathedral, apart from serving as a religious center, was formerly an animal feed store during the French Revolution (which is kind of gross when you think about it) and was destroyed during WWI. Since then, it has been restored to its former glory with intricately decorated chapels dedicated to various saints and stunning biblically-inspired works of art.

i Free; last entry 30min. before closing; wheelchair accessible

PLACE DE LA BOURSE

Quai du Maréchal Lyautey; open daily 24hr

Perhaps the first thing you see when you Google “Bordeaux” is red wine. But the next thing that pops up will be, without a doubt, Place de la Bourse, the city’s main square. Built in the eighteenth century in a neoclassical style, the square was erected for King Louis XIV and his obscenely lavish tastes. Within the square itself is the Bourse, the stock exchange, a fountain of the Three Graces, and the Customs Museum. In front of the square, you’ll find the tram line C, which takes you to Gare Saint-Jean and the famous Miroir d’Eau, the world’s largest water mirror, which spans a whopping 37,000 square feet. If you happen to be on the eastern bank of the Garonne in the evening, look out onto the square to see Bordeaux in all its glory, when the façades glow with soft, yellow light.

i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility

TOUR PEY-BERLAND

Pl. Pey-Berland; 05 56 81 26 25; www.pey-berland.fr; open daily Jan-May 10am-12:30pm and 2pm-5pm, daily June-Sept 10am-1:15pm and 2pm-6pm, daily Oct-Dec 10am-12:30pm and 2pm-5:30pm

Forget the StairMaster; the Tour Pey-Berland has your leg workout covered. The 233-step gothic structure is the bell tower of the Cathédrale Saint-Andre and offers the most incredible panoramic 360-degree view of Bordeaux. Built in the fifteenth century, the tower lacked bells until 1853 and just served as a towering structure for a few hundred years. Now, though, you can climb up the tower and read about the history of every neighborhood of Bordeaux, including the Saint-Michel and Chartrons districts, on the descriptive plaques on the first landing. Pro-tip: bring water on your trek up the bell tower, as the climb is remarkably dizzying.

i Admission €6, free for EU residents and EU students 18-25 years old; last entry 30min. before closing; no wheelchair accessibility

MUSEUMS

MUSÉE DU VIN ET DU NÉGOCE

Cellier des Chartrons; 41 Rue Borie; 05 56 90 19 13; www.museeduvinbordeaux.com; open daily 10am-6pm

Don’t overlook this museum for the glitzy La Cité du Vin. This small museum, located in the Chartrons district, is designed like the wine cellars where the merchants of the district used to produce the highly prized Bordeaux wines. The first hallway is a history lesson, while the second explains how the wine was made, with the actual barrels and machines. After you walk through the museum, enjoy tasting two wines as a museum guide gives you an introduction to the specific wine regions of Bordeaux.

i Admission €10, students €5; limited wheelchair accessibility

CAPC MUSÉE D’ART CONTEMPORAIN DE BORDEAUX

7 rue Ferrère; 05 56 00 81 50; www.capc-bordeaux.fr; open Tu 11am-6pm, W 11am-8pm, Th-Su 11am-6pm

Contemporary art is weird. And the CAPC is no exception. This museum takes weird to the max, exhibiting videos of a naked man desperately trying to straighten his sheets, a female doll lying face down on the ground, and abstract rows of rocks. There’s an interesting room on the upper level with seaweed-like strings hanging from the ceiling spelling out the words displaisir and plaisir, complemented by an eerie blue light spelling out fragments of caveat-like sentences. It’s safe to say this is the stuff of nightmares and yes, after visiting, we had quite a few.

i Admission €7, students €4; wheelchair accessible

MUSÉE DES BEAUX ARTS

20 Cours d’Albret; 05 56 10 20 56; www.musba-bordeaux.fr; open M, W-Su 11am-6pm

Bordeaux’s Musée des Beaux Arts is what you’d expect: rows of art with pictures of Jesus and Jesus’ mom. The museum is separated into two wings: fifteenth to seventeenth century and eighteenth to twentieth century. While the first contains mostly the aforementioned variety of paintings, the second contains works by many Bordelaise artists. The museum boasts a fair amount of works by renowned artists, including masterpieces by Matisse, Monet, and Renoir in its high-ceilinged exhibits.

i Admission €4, students €2; wheelchair accessible

OUTDOORS

DARWIN ECO-SYSTÈME

87 Quai des Queyries; 05 56 77 52 06; open M-F 8:30am-6pm

The Rive Droite of Bordeaux seems to always live in the shadow of its left-leaning sibling. But to ignore this side of the Garonne would be a huge mistake, especially when Darwin Eco-système dwells just across from the Chartrons District. Darwin, a repurposed military barrack, is part of Bordeaux’s rejuvenation as a modern city. Come here to enjoy drinks on the banks of the river, complemented with a filling meal surrounded by vintage décor. This is the hub of urban culture in Bordeaux, complete with co-working spaces, an art gallery, and a skate park called the Hangar (we swear it was inspired by Avril Lavigne’s 2002 hit “Sk8ter Boi,” but that’s just our opinion. Who knew the French were into angsty teen pop?).

i Free, hangar €5; limited wheelchair accessibility

BASE SOUS-MARINE

Bd. Alfred Daney; 05 56 11 11 50

If World War II history is your thing, then you came to the right place. Venture to the outskirts of Bordeaux to see the submarine base tucked away just steps from the Cité du Vin tram stop. Base sous-marine was one of five bases built on the Atlantic coast for fleets of German and Italian U-boats during the German occupation. The 42,000-meter structure, which was built between 1941 and 1943, looks like a huge hunk of rock from afar, but portions of it are open to the public. When we last visited, the submarine base was undergoing renovations and therefore closed to visitors, but will be open in 2019.

i Admission €5, reduced €3, free first Su of the month when open to the public; tours €3 with ticket, tours on W 5pm-6pm, Sa 4pm-5pm; limited wheelchair accessibility

FOOD

L’AGNEAU À LA BRAISE ($$$)

13 Rue du Pas-Saint Georges; 05 56 52 24 89; www.lagneaualabraise.com; open M-Sa 7pm-11pm

Don’t get us wrong: we’re all for solo travel and solo eating. After all, taking yourself out for a meal is on every single one of those “Ten Steps to Your ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ Experience” Buzzfeed lists. But L’Agneau à la Braise probably isn’t the place to do it. It is, however, the place to treat yourself to a nice dinner. Serving typical French fare, this restaurant in the Saint Pierre neighborhood of Bordeaux provides an intimate setting for you and your backpacker friends. We recommend trying their rib-eye steak or their leg of lamb, both cooked perfectly to make your dinner delicious and flavorful (and you’ll get to watch the chefs cook your meat from the dining room). Pair your meat with wine straight from the famous Bordelaise châteaus you’ve been hearing about to round out a meal you’ll reminisce about forever.

i Entrées from €20, wine from €10; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

FUFU BORDEAUX ($$)

37 Rue Saint-Rémi; 5 56 52 10 29; www.restaurantfufu.com; open M-F 11:30am-3pm and 6:30pm-11pm

Locals and tourists alike have heard of FuFu, and the crowds lining up at its door are living proof that this small, Japanese noodle bar has a cult following. With a wide selection of everything from ramen to stir fry to dumplings, FuFu’s specialty is delicious noodles with perfectly salted broth and eggs. Choose from a basic ramen with pork or spice it up with a miso flavor. If noodles aren’t your cup of tea, go for a spicy, flavorful wok dish and watch the skilled chefs prepare them right before your eyes as you wait eagerly at the counter for your lunch. FuFu has a second location not too far off from the first, where you can stop by for your second noodle dish (trust us, you’ll want it)

i Entrées from €9, side dishes from €4, sake from €4, soft drinks from €3; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

CAFÉ NAPOLEON ($)

6 bis Cours du 30 Juillet; 05 56 81 52 26; open daily 7am-9pm

Located steps away from the grand opera, Café Napoleon is the place to stop for your morning coffee. The seats spill onto the sidewalk. The café’s interior, however, is a grand, mint-green wallpapered space featuring life-sized mirrors with ornate frames—perhaps a testament to its namesake: Napoleon. Like all its counterparts, this café boasts a delicious, flavorful espresso (paired with a biscuit) for just €2, but you’ll find yourself coughing up at least €5 for a cup of tea (along with some coughs thanks to the lady chain-smoking next to you).

i Espresso from €2, other drinks from €3; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NOM D’UNE CRÊPE ($)

32 rue Saint Remi; 05 56 06 46 81; open daily noon-2:30pm and 7pm-10:30pm

Just a few blocks away from Place de la Bourse lies the perfect destination to satisfy your craving for a French crêpe. Nom d’Une Crêpe offers a series of deals on both savory and sweet crêpes, ranging from your classic fraise to oeufs avec jambon. (That’s strawberries and eggs with ham, respectively, for those of you who haven’t picked up on French yet.) The interior of the restaurant resembles that of a wine cellar, which seems to be a common theme in Bordeaux. Order a cup of tea for a midday refresher and leave enough room in your stomach for at least two delectable crêpes: you won’t want to miss out.

i Menu classique €11.90, crêpes from €9, coffee and tea from €2

LE REGENT ($)

6 Cours Georges Clemenceau; 05 56 44 90 00; open 11:45am

If we wanted to pretend that we were Blair Waldorf and Serena Van Der Woodsen prancing around France for an entire month (when they should have been prepping for their SATs), we would probably go to Le Regent. A café situated just steps away from the regal Bordeaux Opéra, Le Regent is the perfect place to grab an espresso in a posh chair while listening to pumping beats that belong in the background of Gossip Girl. Be warned that the chairs are strangely small, probably designed for skinny French people or those under 5’5”. But the rich flavor of the coffee, whether you choose a classic espresso or a café noisette, is worth the tight squeeze.

i Espresso from €2, other coffee drinks from €4, entrées from €11; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NIGHTLIFE

BAD MOTHER FUCKER ($)

16 Cours de l’Argonne; 09 86 50 94 68; open daily 5pm-2am

If you’re looking to meet some strange characters that won’t have their nose stuck in a glass of wine that smells “oaky,” swing by this bar to say enchanté to some bad motherfuckers. We’re not quite sure what word to use to encapsulate the atmosphere of this pub: Grungy? Alternative? Punk? Whatever it is, you’re bound to enjoy a wild night consisting of Rolling Stones’ hits, a wide selection of beers, billiards, and—if you’re lucky—live music. So drop your wine glass and pick up a pint. Embrace the intensely red walls of this joint and grow a mullet: it’s time to be a bad motherfucker (but even better to be one during happy hour from 5pm-8pm).

i Beer and wine from €5, shots from €3; wheelchair accessible

LA CONSERVERIE-CONSERVERIE ($)

18 Rue Notre Dame; 05 56 81 49 17; www.laconserverie-bordeaux.fr; open Tu-W 11am-8:30pm, Th-Sa 11am-10pm

Bordeaux is the city of wine and La Conserverie-Conserverie doesn’t disappoint. This wine bar serves high-quality Bordelaise wines in a charming space geared toward an almost exclusively local crowd. Although there is a terrace courtyard, we recommend kicking back on one of the cozy armchairs and admiring the Moroccan rugs. If you’ve grown tired of wine, La Conserverie-Conserverie offers an expansive selection of other drinks, including Aperol spritz and a wide array of beers along with small plates to pair with your beverage of choice.

i Wine from €4, small plates from €10; wheelchair accessible

THE STARFISH PUB ($)

24 Rue Sainte Colombe; 05 56 52 88 61; open M-F 4pm-2am, Sa 2pm-2am, Su 2pm-midnight

For the love of all that is good in the world, you can finally put away your wine connoisseur alter-ego and let loose at this popping underground club and warm red and yellow-walled bar. This hotspot is a big draw for young backpackers, Erasmus students, and locals from all walks of life. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to belt out a classic French song on karaoke night or listen to local musicians during Starfish’s jam sessions. Pro tip: come during happy hour (5:30pm-8:30pm) before the bar gets really crowded for sweet deals on all your favorite drinks (wine included).

i Drinks from €3; wheelchair accessible

SYMBIOSE ($$)

4 Quai des Chartrons; 05 56 23 67 15; open M noon-2:30pm, Tu-F noon-2:30pm and 7pm-2pm, Sa 7pm-2am

At first blush, Symbiose looks like a hippie café joint that probably serves from the organic-only, grass-fed variety. Wrong. Located in the Chartrons district, Symbiose features a lovely fusion of tapas cuisine using meats such as chicken and duck in flavorful combinations only Ratatouille’s Remy could have come up with. But the surprise about Symbiose and its welcoming wood-paneled interior doesn’t end there. Behind the grandfather clock at the back of the restaurant is a secret door, transforming this unassuming joint into a speakeasy right in the historical wine district.

i Lunch entrées from €13, dinner entrées from €20, plates from €8, drinks from €5; reservations recommended; wheelchair accessible

CAEN

Coverage by Emily Corrigan

Caen made a name for itself in the annals of history long before students invaded the city, their backpacks and travel guides in tow. It especially gained fame as the former home of William the Conqueror (known as William the Bastard to some), and his castle and other constructions still dominate the city’s architecture. In more recent history, Caen played an important role in World War II. Not far from the landing beaches on the coast of Normandy, it’s the perfect base for exploring the region and understanding its harrowing past. In the city, medieval streets lined with bars and restaurants mingle with massive cathedrals and shops in modern buildings that were constructed after the city’s near-complete bombardment during the war. Add some regional cheese and speciality cider and you’ll feel yourself transported back to medieval times.

ORIENTATION

The city of Caen spreads over five main districts. Near the center of the city is Caen Castle, surrounded by the main hustle and bustle of the town. Le Vaugueux, the medieval district full of restaurants, lies just below it to the southeast, while the shop-lined pedestrian streets of Saint-Sauveur flank the castle to the southwest. The Jardin des Plantes district to the northwest showcases impressive nineteenth-century townhouses, while the peninsula district to the southeast is perfect for an evening stroll along the water. Don’t miss the hippodrome towards the city’s southern edge, or the historical beaches just a few miles north.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

Caen has its own small regional airport with some international flights from a limited number of other European cities. It’s about 3mi. north of the city, so take a taxi. SNCF also runs high-speed trains out of Caen station.

GETTING AROUND

Caen has a tram system that spans over two lines. Tickets cost €2 but depend on how far you’re traveling. Caen has a convenient bus system that can also travel to other nearby towns. The main hub is Gare de Caen. Tickets are €1.50.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: 12 Pl. Saint-Pierre; 02 31 27 14 14

Banks/ATMS/Currency Exchange: Currency can be exchanged at the Bureau de Change (115 Rue Saint-Jean; 02 31 30 18 87; www.change-caen.com; open M-F 9:15am-12:30pm and 2:15pm-6:30pm, Sa 9:15am-12:30pm and 2:15pm-5pm).

Post Offices: La Poste (2 Rue Georges Lebret, open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm and 1:30pm-4:30pm)

Internet: Free public Wi-Fi is provided in six areas, listed here: caen.fr/capitale-vivre/wifi-en-acces-libre.

BGLTQ+ Resources: Centre BGLTQ de Normandie (74 Bd. Dunois, 06 89 49 40 56; www.centrelgbt-normandie.fr)

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: Police Nationale (10 Rue du Dr Thibout de la Fresnaye; 02 31 29 22 22)

Rape Crisis Center: In case of a crisis, call RAINN (800 656 4673).

Hospitals: Hospital Center University De Caen (Av. de la Côte de Nacre; 02 31 06 31 06)

Pharmacies: Pharmacy Hastings (24 Rue Lanfranc; 02 31 74 75 24).

ACCOMMODATIONS

HÔTEL DU HAVRE CAEN CENTRE ($$)

11 Rue du Havre; 02 31 86 19 80; www.caen-hotel.fr

Beds as soft as baby sheep covered in butter. Wi-Fi that works faster than the speed of light. The privacy of your own bathroom. In short, a weary traveler’s oasis. This is how you will feel when you check in at Hôtel du Havre. Although Caen isn’t exactly a young traveler’s hub, the hotel provides the most comfortable and affordable accommodations near the city center. The staff is professional and knowledgeable, not just a teenager on summer vacation, and the fluffy (and free) towels feel like clouds compared to your average hostel sandpaper.

i Rooms starting at €55; reservation required; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi

SIGHTS

CULTURE

HIPPODROME DE LA PRAIRIE

Bd. Yves Guillou; 02 31 27 50 80; www.letrot.com/fr/hippodrome/caen/1400; hours vary

Experience authentic French horse-racing culture at Caen’s very own hippodrome. The track features exclusively trotting races, meaning either the horses will remain in the trotting gait (if you know anything about horses) or it’ll just look really weird (if you don’t). Whether you want to bet on a horse, or just root for whichever one has the prettiest tail, one thing is certain: the fast-talking horse race announcing is even less comprehensible in French.

i Admission €3; wheelchair accessible

LANDMARKS

CAEN CASTLE

02 31 30 47 60; www.musee-de-normandie.caen.fr/application-chateau; open daily 9:30am-6pm

The Castle of Caen looms over the city like a basketball player looms over an oompa loompa. Its construction began in 1060 by none other than William the Conqueror, who resided there when he wasn’t launching conquests on England. It remains one of the largest fortified enclosures in Europe, with 800 meters of ramparts (on which you can walk, of course, but we know you’ll mostly pretend to shoot arrows out of small slits and pose comically with large cannons). The castle has a moat, drawbridges, dungeon ruins—the whole nine yards. If that’s not enough to pique your interest, you can still visit the fine arts museum and the Museum of Normandy for free, provided you’re under 25. That’s ageism at its finest.

i Castle admission free, museum admission free under 25; tours Tu and F 11am and 4pm; wheelchair accessible

ABBAYE AUX HOMMES

Esplanade Jean-Marie Louvel; 02 31 30 42 81; www.caen.fr/node/457; open daily 24hr

We’ve all been there. You went and married your cousin (despite what Dad said) and now you have to get yourself some insurance just in case the old man upstairs isn’t too pleased with your incestuous behavior. William the Conqueror’s solution for this all-too-relatable problem was to construct the enormous Abbaye aux Hommes (mens’ abbey). Much larger and more resplendent than the womens’ abbey—1063 was a little early for feminism—this abbey features a beautiful cloister with a manicured garden, as well as the tomb of the famed conqueror himself. It would be a lovely place for a wedding to, say, your cousin.

i Admission €7, reduced €5.50, under 18 free; tours M-F at 10:30am and 2pm; wheelchair accessible

MUSEUMS

MÉMORIAL DE CAEN

Esplanade Général Eisenhower; 02 31 06 06 44; www.memorial-caen.fr; open daily 9am-7pm

You would be hard pressed to find a more personal, inspiring, haunting, and devastatingly sad take on World War II history than this memorial, which emphasizes the costly human toll the war exacted from France. Caen was one of the cities in Normandy occupied by Germans for the longest and was later hit by Allied bombardment during its liberation. Not only does the museum explore combat, strategy, and politics, but it focuses on massacres, extermination, and the effects of waging total war on all of its fronts. It would be difficult to leave the Mémorial de Caen without both a nuanced understanding of an event that altered the course of human history and a heightened sense of your own humanity.

i Students €17; wheelchair accessible

OUTDOORS

ÉTRETAT

Étretat; www.etretat.net

There should be a reality TV show called “Keeping Up with the Cliffs” because the cliffs at Étretat are as dramatic as they come. Turquoise water laps at the bottom of white cliffs topped with lush, green grass as well as a spattering of handsome cows and a quaint church building. As if these gargantuan striped walls weren’t enough, there are a number of physics-defying natural archways carved into the stone that you have to see to believe. Be sure not to miss the small trail beginning just past the church and leading down to the beach, as it will take you to a long tunnel cutting straight through the stone.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

SWORD BEACH

Colleville Plage, Ouistreham; www.ouistreham.mobi/en/today/sword.html

Sword Beach has a number of draws that nearly necessitate a trip from Caen to stroll the sandy shoreline. First of all, it’s a beautiful, wide beach where locals dig for clams, dogs with lolling tongues sprint by, and friendly locals sell cheap crêpes from beachside stands. It’s also the most easily accessible D-Day beach to visit from Caen. A British landing beach near the strategically important Pegasus Bridge, the fighting that took place at this beach played a significant role in the outcome of the June 6, 1944 operation. To get there, just take the #61 bus about 25 minutes toward Ouistreham and get off at Colleville Plage.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

FOOD

Ô CHATO ($$)

28 Rue du Vaugueux; 02 31 94 35 70; open M-Th noon-2pm and 7pm-10pm, F-Sa noon-2pm and 7pm-10:30pm, Su noon-2pm and 7pm-10pm

Situated in the medieval part of town, Ô Chato boasts both food and views that you probably can’t find anywhere else. It lies at the end of a busy restaurant-filled street directly beneath Caen Castle, meaning you’ll be living the fantasy of middle-aged moms everywhere: drinking wine and eating cheese with an unobstructed view of a French castle. And, presumably, you won’t be accompanied by any screaming kids! The restaurant serves Italian food alongside irresistible local specialties. Just a few miles from the beach, Caen suffers no shortage of mussels, and Ô Chato is the perfect place to try moules frites, the traditional Norman dish of mussels with fries. The fondue starter is another regional gem, as Norman cheese is difficult to beat.

i Moules frites €12, dinner menu €15; vegan and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

L’ATELIER DU BURGER ($)

27 Rue Ecuyere; 02 31 50 13 44; www.latelier-duburger.fr; open daily noon-2:30pm and 7pm-11:30pm

It may seem counter to your authenticity-seeking, off-the-beaten-path, traveler’s attitude to come all the way to Caen and then go to a burger joint. I mean, come on, you have a “Not all who wander are lost” sticker on your guitar case and your Instagram bio is “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” But L’Atelier du Burger isn’t your average burger joint. They keep it simple: their menu consists of only five delicious burgers, one featuring the establishment’s signature secret sauce. The only other option on the menu is to add fries and a drink for €3.

i Burgers from €7.50, combo add €3; vegetarian options available; no wheelchair accessibility

SA-SE-SU ($)

156 Rue Saint-Jean; 02 31 91 83 43; www.sasesu14.fr; open M-Sa noon-2pm and 7pm-11pm, Su 7pm-11pm

Caen, at only 10,122 km away from Vietnam, is the perfect place to have fresh and authentic Vietnamese food! Don’t let our sarcastic tone fool you; Sa-se-su actually validates this statement. Light salads at the outdoor tables are refreshing on hot summer days, but the bo bun (beef and noodle soup) is the winner for a hearty meal, for as little as €6. Snacking on amazing starters doesn’t get cheaper than at Sa-se-su either, with appetizers topping off €5.

i Starters from €3, entrées from €6; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NIGHTLIFE

LE VERTIGO

14 Rue Ecuyère; 02 31 85 43 12; open M-Sa 11:30am-1am

This gritty, cider-slinging pub seems like the bar version of a Dungeons and Dragons club with the added advantage of being right down the street from a real life dungeon (dragons sold separately). Decorated like the inside of a castle, complete with swords and suits of armor, Vertigo hosts ye olde happy hour from 7pm-9pm, when ciders are only €2.10 and signature beer cocktails start at €5 for a hefty 50cl pour. If this spot doesn’t fit your vibe, never fear. The bar is on Rue Ecuyère, one of Caen’s most animated nightlife streets.

i Beer cocktails from €5 for 50cl, happy hour ciders €2.10; wheelchair accessible

LE WHAT’S

1 Bis Av. de Tourville; 02 31 93 57 76; www.lewhats.com; open W-Sa 11pm-6am

A night at Le What’s is like hanging out with a cool exchange student: it’s foreign and exciting but you’re never 100% sure you understand what’s going on. Unlike in larger French cities, this place plays real French music, and unlike in some cities that think they’re too cool *cough* Paris *cough,* everyone actually dances too. Everyone else there will seem like they’ve been a hundred times (and they probably have), so to avoid sticking out as the tourist you are, keep a few things in mind: don’t come before midnight (or better yet 1am or 2am), keep the receipt from entry to redeem two included drinks, and just smile and nod.

i Entry €10 with two drinks included; wheelchair accessible

CANNES

Coverage by Alejandro Lampell

Take out your only pair of clean slacks, unpack the button-down shirt that’s been sitting in the bottom of your bag for weeks, straighten out the creases of your giant pack, for you are now in Cannes—a household name synonymous with affluence, extravagance, and class. Unlike tourist-friendly Nice or metropolitan Marseille, Cannes—the ritziest city in the Côte d’Azur—caters almost exclusively to, well, an exclusive clientele. You need only take a stroll along the yacht-filled Old Port or the diamond-encrusted storefronts at the Boulevard de la Croisette to understand what we’re talking about. Home to the infamous annual Film Festival, visiting Cannes in May entails rubbing elbows with A and B-list celebrities. The real draw of Cannes, however, is not the possibility of bumping into your celebrity crush while walking along one of the city’s sandy beaches, but the sandy beaches themselves. They’re a hot commodity in the French Riviera, and explain, in part, why it’s virtually impossible to find a place to stay for less than €40 a night. That said, if you do it right, Cannes is actually a very manageable city, and with our recommendations, you’ll be able to survive—thrive even—on a traveler’s budget.

ORIENTATION

Cannes’ city center hugs the coastline of the Mediterranean, with suburbs stretching inland towards the French Alps. It’s just a 30-minute train ride west from Nice, making it a great day trip destination for those who don’t want to break the bank on accommodations. Vieux Port marks the true center of town; here, you’ll find the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès, the venue of the Cannes Film Festival. Just west of the Vieux Port is the Old Town, called Le Suquet. East of the city center lies the famous nightclub area and yet another yacht-packed port. Connecting these two areas are the Boulevard de la Croisette, a major thoroughfare that runs along the shore and is lined with name-brand stores, upscale restaurants, and art galleries, and Rue d’Antibes, Boulevard de la Croisette’s inland counterpart.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

The nearest major airport is the Côte d’Azur Airport in Nice, located approximately 20 mi. east of Cannes. The smaller Cannes-Mandelieu airport, located 4 mi. from the city center, is much closer, but frequented exclusively by smaller private aircrafts. From the Côte d’Azur Airport, you can take a 20min. train ride to Cannes (€6). Cannes has two train stations, Cannes and Cannes la Bocca. Make sure to get off at the former, as the latter is several miles east of the city center.

GETTING AROUND

For us plebeians who cannot afford the luxury of wasting away our days bobbing on yachts on the Mediterranean, the most efficient means of exploring Cannes is by foot. Crossing the city from east to west takes 40min., tops. Cannes also has a public transportation system called Palm Bus, which consists of five bus lines. All five lines pass through the main Hôtel de Ville stop, adjacent to the Vieux Port. You can purchase tickets on the bus (single ride €1.50), from tabac shops, or from the tourist office on Boulevard de la Croisette (24hr ticket €4, 3-day ticket €7, 7-day ticket €13.50, 10-trip ticket €12). Buses run daily from 6am-9pm, but there is also a night line called Palm Night, which runs from 9pm-2am.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: Cannes’ main tourist office (1 Bd. de la Croisette; 04 92 99 84 22; open daily Mar-Oct 9am-7pm, Nov-Feb 10am-7pm, July-Aug 9am-8pm) is located near the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès.

Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Banks, ATMs, and exchange houses litter the city, but most are located close to the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès.

Post Offices: Cannes Croisette (22 Rue Bivouac Napoléon; 04 93 06 26 50; open M-F 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm). The postal code is 06400.

Internet: There is free Wi-Fi at the train station and central tourist office. You can rent a personal hotspot box at the Cannes Tourist Office (€7.90 per day, additional €3 upon return).

BGLTQ+ Resources: Centre BGLTQ Côte d’Azur (123 Rue de Roquebillière; 09 81 93 14 82; www.centrelgbt06.fr; open M 9:30am-8pm, Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, W 9:30am-8pm, Th 9:30am-5:30pm, F 9:30am-8pm, Sa 2pm-8pm)

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: Police Municipale (2 Quai Saint-Pierre; 0 800 11 71 18; open daily 24hr)

US Embassy: The nearest US Consulate is located in Marseille (Place Varian Fry; 01 43 12 48 85).

Rape Crisis Center: Institut National d’Aide aux Victimes et de Médiation (14 rue Ferrus; 01 45 88 19 00; open daily 9am-9pm)

Hospitals: Hôpital de Cannes (15 Av. des Broussailles; 04 93 69 70 00; open daily 24hr)

Pharmacies: Anglo-French Pharmacy Cannes (95 Rue d’Antibes; 04 93 38 53 79; open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm)

ACCOMMODATIONS

HÔTEL PLM ($$$)

3 Rue Hoche; 04 93 38 31 19; www.hotel-plm.com; reception open daily 9am-1pm and 3pm-7pm

Hotel PLM is the clear winner in the race for value housing in Cannes. This small yet modern two-star is located on Rue Hoche, a popular pedestrian area, and is within walking distance of some of the city’s best restaurants and nightlife. The well-lit rooms are clean and welcoming (unlike the staff, unfortunately), outfitted in sleek grey and white furniture—a sharp contrast from the décor of PLM’s slightly more upscale neighbor, Hotel Villa Tosca.

i Basic single from €30, basic single with ensuite shower from €46, double from €59; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens and towels included; laundry facilities

HÔTEL ATLANTIS ($$$)

4 Rue du 24 Août; 04 93 39 18 72; www.hotel-atlantis-cannes.cote.azur.fr; reception open 24hr

Frequented by seasoned beach-goers, Hôtel Atlantis’ rooms come equipped with air conditioning. The décor is uplifting, and although Atlantis doesn’t offer a communal vibe like most European hostels, it has a communal eating area that lends itself well to conversations with other travelers

i Rooms from €44; reservation recommended, especially during high season (May-June); wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linens included; laundry; breakfast from €7

SIGHTS

CULTURE

MARCHE FORVILLE

12 Rue Louis Blanc; 04 92 99 84 22; www.cannes.com/fr/decouvir-cannes/visiter-cannes/marche-forville.html; open Sept 15-June 14 Tu-F 7am-1:30pm, Sa-Su 7am-2:30pm; June 15-Sept 14 T-Su 7am-2:30pm

The Marche Forville is a vestige of a foregone past: a time when fishing vessels lined the coastline instead of mega-yachts, and quaint shops lined Boulevard de la Croisette instead of internationally-recognized stores. This market unites local fisherman and gardeners to sell their wares and evokes the Provençal, small-town feel you’ve been longing to find in the French Riviera. Walk along the wide lanes of the covered market, organized into different sectors according to produce type. If you are looking for something already-made, the market also offers seasonal socca, paella, and hamburgers.

i Market prices vary; cash only; wheelchair accessible

BOULEVARD DE LA CROISETTE

Bd. de la Croisette; street open daily 24hr, shop hours vary

The path to fame is lined with palm trees, brand-name stores, chic gallerias, and crêperies—if by fame you’re referring to the horde of A-list celebrities slinking along the red carpet at the Palais des Festivals et des Congres and by path you’re referring to Boulevard de la Croisette. Stretching from the Old Port to the Cap de la Croisette, this renowned street is not only the city’s biggest thoroughfare, but also your best bet for ~casually~ running into your favorite celebrity. Stroll past the local branches of star-frequented Armani and Dolce and Gabbana; when you inevitably get tired of window-shopping (read: walking into a store and becoming the subject of passive-aggressive stares), take a breather on one of the street’s iconic blue chairs.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

LANDMARKS

FORT ROYAL & MUSÉE DE LA MER

Saint-Marguerite Island; 04 89 82 26 26; open daily Oct-Mar 10:30am-1:15pm and 2:15pm-4:45pm; Apr-May 10:30am-1:15pm and 2:15pm-5:45pm; Jun-Sept 10am-5:45pm

After spending a few hours walking around Cannes, you’ll see that the city offers relatively few sources of affordable entertainment—on the mainland, at least. Enter St. Marguerite Island, a tree-covered, yacht-flanked oasis located 15 minutes off Cannes’ sandy shores by boat. Upon it rests Fort Royal, a citadel built just before the Spanish occupied the island in 1635 and which was extended in 1637 under the direction of French military architect Vauban. The citadel itself offers astonishing views of the Mediterranean and the mainland, and is just a short walk away from the State Prison, which held notorious felons such as the Man in the Iron Mask. Also within walking distance is the Musée de la Mer, which offers a comprehensive overview of the island’s history as a Roman trading post.

i Admission €6, reduced €3; students under 26, children under 18, and disabled persons free; limited wheelchair accessibility; last entry 5:30pm; guided tours available upon request (04 93 38 55 26)

PALAIS DES FESTIVALS ET DES CONGRÈS

1 Bd. de la Croisette; 04 92 99 84 00

The Palais des Festivals et des Congrès is truly a spectacle to behold, especially in May when movie projectors and camera flashes set it aglow, transforming the structure into a beacon for artists, cinephiles, and A-list celebrities alike. Designed by architect and visionary Sir Hubert Bennett and completed—initially—in 1949, this six-story glass complex is the venue of (you guessed it) the Cannes Film Festival and the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity. In the intervening months between the two festivals, the Palais hosts a slew of cultural events, some of which are open to the public. The interior of the building is accessible only by guided tour and slots fill up quickly, so be sure to book well in advance.

i Admission €6, children under 16 free, half price for disabled persons; reservation recommended; wheelchair accessible

OUTDOORS

PLAGE DU MIDI

Bd. Jean Hibert; open daily 9am-6pm

Can’t bear to see one more damn yacht? Looking for a classic, packed, seminude beach that’s basically the human equivalent of a can of sardines? Then look no further than the Plage du Midi, the perfect place to spend an afternoon on a hot summer day. The 20-minute walk from Cannes’ city center may seem like a trek, but the tan sand, clear coastal water, and surrounding hills make up for it.

i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility

FOOD

LA CRÊPERIE DE LA CROISETTE ($)

82 Bd. de la Croisette; 04 93 94 43 47; www.creperiedelacroisette.com; open high season daily at 9am, low season daily at 10:30am; by reservation only

Located on the infamous Boulevard de la Croisette and serving up a variety of sweet and savory crêpes, this lavender-clad locale is perfect for any meal. Each crêpe comes with a side salad, dollop of ice cream, or caramel drizzle. If you don’t identify as a crêpe aficionado, La Croisette offers a small assortment of salads, cheese plates, snack-style pastas, sandwiches, and burgers as well.

i Crêpes from €4, main plates from €8; card minimum €10; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

LE TROQUET À SOUPES ($)

Prom. De la Pantiero; 04 93 38 43 4; open daily 9:30am-7pm

This small locale is run entirely by one woman, Sylvie, who’s a jill-of-all-trades. Part owner, part manager, part waitress, and all chef, she’ll set up the umbrellas on the patio, take your order, cook your food, and still find time to chat about life. We recommend starting your meal with a hearty bowl of soup and splurging on the plate of the day. A well-traveled woman herself, Sylvie likes to experiment, concocting dishes reminiscent of other cultures, including chili con carne and ceviche.

i Soups from €6, salads from €7, main plates from €10, plate of the day from €13; vegetarian options available; limited wheelchair accessibility

PHILCAT ($)

Promenade de la Pantiero; 04 93 38 43 4; open daily 9:30am-7pm

A €4 panini in Cannes? At a restaurant located two minutes from the Palais des Festivals? No, you’re not hallucinating. Philcat, a white and blue shack serving up a variety of sweet and savory sandwiches, stands defiantly on the expansive Pantiero Promenade and is truly a backpacker’s blessing. Don’t let the small interior dissuade you, as there is almost unlimited seating surrounding the Old Port.

i Sandwiches from €3; minimum card charge €15; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NIGHTLIFE

GOTHA CLUB

Pl. Franklin Roosevelt; 04 93 45 11 11; www.gotha-club.com; open daily midnight-7am

Recognized by nearly every Sperry-clad Hamptons crew as one of the best nightclubs in the world, Gotha is, well, an experience. It has a tight window of opening from midnight until about 12:30am, during which the bouncers pay little attention to attire, company, and level of intoxication. Arrive after 12:30am, however, and your chances of getting in will dwindle. Inside, the entrance soon gives way to a dimly-lit dance floor, strobe lights, large sofas, and VIP lounges. Drinks start at €12 and venture into the quintuple digits, so if you plan on drinking, it’d be best to do so beforehand. Don’t go too hard, however, or you may be coaxed into splitting a €500 bottle of champagne with the son of a Russian billionaire.

i Beer from €12, alcohol from €15; dressy attire recommended

QUAY’S IRISH PUB

17 Quai Saint-Pierre; 04 93 39 27 84; open M-Sa noon-2am

This English-speaking pub located on the banks of the Old Port is the perfect place to stop before spending an evening in one of Cannes’ exorbitantly-priced clubs. Quay’s interior is completely decked out with wooden planks, signed dollar bills, Irish flags, and sports memorabilia, and will effectively bring you back down to earth. And not just in the figurative sense! The drinks are so cheap (relatively speaking) that you’ll be on your ass before you get the chance to sing along to a live cover of Billy Joel’s “Piano Man.”

i Beer from €4, shots from €5; minimum card charge €7; happy hour 5pm-8pm

LYON

Coverage by Kristine Guillaume

It’s all too easy to overlook Lyon as a random city smack in the middle of Paris and the French Riviera. Skipping over it may seem, at first blush, like a small sacrifice for the beaches of Nice or the mélange of culture in Marseille. But to do so would be a grave mistake. Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France, has much to offer in the form of delectable bouchons, hearty meat-centric dishes paired with all your French favorites: bread, cheese, and wine. Here, you can spend each night trying a different edible part of a pig or cow after a day of climbing Roman ruins, admiring masterpieces in the city’s many museums, or roaming the cobblestone streets of Vieux Lyon—a UNESCO World Heritage Site in itself. Gear up for bouchon after bouchon, and get ready to immerse yourself in the vibrant culture of Lyon—influenced by its importance in the Roman Empire, its deep ties to Catholicism, and its status as an epicenter of intellectual development throughout the years.

ORIENTATION

Lyon is a city in the southeastern part of France, located just two hours south of Paris. The city itself contains two rivers: the Rhône and the Saône. The two rivers converge at the southern tip of the city, creating the famous peninsula Presqu’île. In the northern part of Presqu’île are many famous landmarks including Hôtel de Ville and Place Bellecour. In addition to the rivers, the city of Lyon is bounded by two hills: Fourvière, the site of Vieux Lyon (Old Town) and La Basilique de Notre Dame, and Croix-Rousse, the part of town where the silk workers resided during Lyon’s economic prime. There are nine arrondissements in the city; the first and second arrondissements, the site of Place des Terreaux and Place Bellecour, contain the most attractions. Vieux Lyon makes up the fifth arrondissement while Parc de la Tête D’Or, on the eastern side of the Rhône, makes up the sixth. The Part-Dieu train station is located in the third arrondissement, along with Les Halles de Lyon—Paul Bocuse.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

If flying, Lyon St-Exupéry airport is the closest to the city center. From the airport, there is a 30min. express tram called Rhône express to Lyon Part-Dieu train station (€15, students €13). The tram runs daily from 4:25pm to midnight every 15-30min. We recommend purchasing your ticket ahead of time (www.rhoneexpress.fr), but there are ticket machines for purchase upon arrival at the airport. If traveling by train, there are two main train stations: Part-Dieu, located in the third arrondissement, and Perrache, located on the southern tip of Presqu’île. Both stations are located about 20min. away via metro from the city center. The cheapest way to get into Lyon is via bus. Most arrive in Part-Dieu station.

GETTING AROUND

The best way to get around Lyon is to walk. If you’d like to bike, you can rent one with Velo’v service. The first 30min. of each ride are free and every additional 30min. costs €1 for a maximum of 24hr. A day-long ticket is €1.50 (which makes 10 times more sense). For the city’s public transit (metro, bus, and tram), 1hr tickets are €1.80. There is also a ticket called Soirée that allows for unlimited travel from 7pm until the end of that day’s service for just €3. The metro runs from 4am-12:30am and the buses from 5am-midnight. To get up to Fourvière and the Musée Gallo-Romain, there is a funicular at the Vieux Lyon Metro Station (round-trip €2.80).

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: Office du Tourisme et des Congrès du Grand Lyon (Pl. Bellecour; 04 72 77 69 69; open daily 9am-6pm)

Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: BNP Paribas (5 Rue de la République; 08 20 82 00 01; bank open Tu-Sa 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:45pm-6pm; ATMs open daily 24hr)

Post Offices: The main post office is located by Place Bellecour (10 Pl. Antonin Poncet; 08 99 23 24 62; open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-noon).

Public Restrooms: Most of Lyon’s tourist offices have public toilets.

Internet: You can rent out a pocket Wi-Fi from the Tourist Information Office for €4 with Lyon City Card (regular price €8).

BGLTQ+ Resources: Ligne Azur is an organization that provides information and support to BGLTQ+ individuals (08 10 20 30 40; daily 8am-11pm).

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: Commissariat de police, second arrondissement (47 R. de la Charité; 04 78 42 26 56; open daily 24hr)

US Embassy: US Consulate of Lyon (1 Quai Jules Courmont; 01 43 12 48 60; open M-F 9:30am-5:30pm)

Rape Crisis Center: National Federation Women Solidarity (3919), not an emergency number. In case of emergency, call the police.

Hospitals: Hôpital Edouard Herriot (5 Pl. d’Arsonval; 08 25 08 25 69; open daily 24hr)

Pharmacies: Look for the green cross to find a pharmacy. There are plenty throughout the city.

• Great Pharmacie Lyonnaise (22 R. de la République; 04 72 56 44 00; open M-Sa 8am-11pm, Su 7pm-11pm)

ACCOMMODATIONS

AWAY HOSTEL AND COFFEE SHOP ($$)

21 Rue Alsace Lorraine; 04 78 98 53 20; www.awayhostel.com; reception open 24hr

If Urban Outfitters were a hostel, this would be it. Boasting boho-chic vibes, high ceilings, and wooden floors, Away Hostel features spacious rooms with lockers large enough to fit your entire backpack and then some. The hotel has a café on the ground floor that serves breakfast and strong lattes at affordable prices. Attached to the café, you’ll find a common room filled with bean bags and books perfect for a mid-afternoon breather. The only downsides? The hostel is located right next to a busy street, so you’ll hear cars zooming by throughout the night (pro tip: pick up a pair of free earplugs at the front desk). It’s a small price to pay for the warm duvet, great air-conditioning, and welcoming atmosphere during your entire stay.

i Dorms from €21, privates from €65; reservation recommended; no wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels not included; laundry €5 for wash and dry, detergent €1; breakfast €4, 7am-11am; kitchen

HO36 OPÉRA ($$)

9 Rue Sainte-Catherine; 04 78 28 11 01; www.ho36hostels/lyon-opera; reception open 24hr

The key when it comes to this hostel is location. Steps away from the Parc National de L’Opéra, Hôtel de Ville, and the Musée des Beaux Arts, Ho36 Opéra offers a convenient option with ensuite bathrooms, an open patio, and a spacious common bar-café area with tables and chairs reminiscent of a hipster’s living room. While the hostel is comfortable, it does have some drawbacks: the bathroom doors inside the rooms lack locks (so you might find yourself becoming closer to your roommate than you ever expected), the lights tend to flicker, and there were only two open outlets in our room. In the end though, the hostel makes up for it with budget prices and a free welcome drink of beer or wine upon arrival.

i Dorms from €25, privates from €85; cash only; reservation required; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included; breakfast €8

SLO LIVING HOSTEL

5 Rue Bonnefoi; 04 78 59 06 90; www.slo-hostel.com; reception open 24hr

With an open courtyard, hammocks, and twinkly fairy lights, Slo Living Hostel truly encourages you to take a deep breath and live slo. This hostel is a great place to meet fellow travelers as you pause in the courtyard or indoor common areas after a long day of sightseeing in Lyon. With spacious rooms, clean communal bathrooms, and relatively comfortable beds (which is saying a lot for a hostel), Slo gives you the chance to feel at home, even if you’re traveling alone. And if you can splurge on a private room, you won’t be disappointed by the lively, bright décor on the walls.

i Dorms from €20, privates from €90; reservation recommended; max stay 7 nights; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linens included; breakfast €5

SIGHTS

CULTURE

LES HALLES DE PAUL BOCUSE

102 Cours la Fayette; 04 78 60 32 82; www.halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com; open Tu-Sa 7am-10:30pm, most restaurants close around 6-7pm

Here lies the answer to all your food cravings. The holy grail of all things food, wine, and spirits, Les Halles de Paul Bocuse has everything you could imagine: boulangers, fromagers, charcutiers, pâtissiers, and so on. Walk through stall after stall of delicious and delectable aromas and pick up some of your favorite French staples. Although there are several restaurants for you to choose from, they might be a little out of your backpacker budget. Instead, stop by in the mid-afternoon and pick up a personalized assortment of fine wines, mouthwatering cheeses, and flavorful sausages to go.

i Stall prices vary; wheelchair accessible

OPÉRA NATIONAL DE LYON

Pl. de la Comédie ; 04 69 85 54 54; www.opera-lyon.com; ticket office open Tu-Sa noon-7pm; opera runs Sept-July

Situated right behind the grand Hôtel de Ville is the (arguably) grander Opéra National de Lyon, a massive glass-topped building. Throughout the year, the opera hosts dance performances, concerts, plays, special events, and, oh yeah, operas. Tickets don’t come cheap for a place as fancy as this, but, if you’re lucky, you can snag one for just €5 right before the show. Even if you’re not seeing a performance, though, you can sit on the steps and listen to musicians perform or watch young teenagers practice dance performances on the opera’s steps.

i Tickets from €16, €5 tickets on sale 1hr before a show (if available); minimum age 5 years old; wheelchair accessible

VIEUX LYON

69005 Lyon 5ème; 04 72 10 30 30; hours vary by store

Yeah, you’re not in Paris, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have your perfect Les Mis moment. On the Fourvière side of the Saône lies Vieux Lyon, the Old Town. Walk through its cobblestone streets, which strongly resemble the set of Les Mis, or, perhaps more accurately, eighteenth-century France. There’s even a little dip in the middle of the sidewalk that looks like a “drainage system” for sewage thrown out the window. It’s kind of gross when you think about it… or even if you don’t. Flat walking shoes are highly recommended for your stroll through the winding streets lined with bouches authentiques and local boutiques. In the center of Vieux Lyon is the metro station, which gives you full access to funiculars going up Fourvière.

i Free; last funicular back to Vieux Lyon from Fourvière 10pm; no wheelchair accessibility

LANDMARKS

LA BASILIQUE NOTRE-DAME DE FOURVIÈRE

8 Pl. de Fourvière; 04 78 25 86 19; www.fourviere.org; basilica open daily 8am-6pm, Mass daily 7:30am, 9:30am, 11am, 5pm, museum daily 10am-12:30pm and 2pm-5:30pm

This nineteenth-century church stands tall atop Fourvière Hill. Decked out in gold and ornate patterns in greens, pinks, and teal blues, the basilica’s magnificence commands respect. Check out the detailed paintings of scenes from the Bible, but don’t stop there: head down to the crypt, a space just as ornately decorated as the basilica itself. Once you’ve finished, walk to the back of the building, where you’ll find a perch from which you can view the entire city of Lyon and the Saône River. Apart from the views, the basilica bears historical significance, as it is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who is said to have protected Lyon during the Franco-Prussian wars.

i Free; discovery tour free Apr-Nov 9am-12:30pm and 2pm-6pm; discover roof and places of basilica June 1-Sept 30 M-Sa 11am, 2:30am, 4pm, Su 2:30pm and 4pm €10, youth €5, with Lyon City Card free; last funicular back to Vieux Lyon 10pm; wheelchair accessible

CATHÉDRALE SAINT JEAN DE BAPTISTE

Place St Jean; 06 60 83 53 97; www.cathedrale-lyon.cef.fr; open M-F 8:15am-7:45pm, Sa 8:15am-7pm, Su 8am-7pm

In the middle of Vieux Lyon stands the Cathédrale Saint Jean de Baptiste, the seat of the archdiocese in Lyon, considered by some to be the seat of the French church, making it a pretty big deal. The cathedral is a beautiful sandstone color with distinctive red doors, high ceilings, and intricately decorated stained-glass windows. Inside the left nave of the church, check out the horloge astronomique, a clock that mirrors the movement of the stars. The treasury of the church holds artifacts from the Byzantine Empire for your crash course in Lyonnais history. Behind the church is Palais St. Jean, which has a library just in case you’re looking for more books about Lyon’s ties to Catholicism.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

PASSAGE THIAFFAIT

Between Rue René Leynaud and Rue Burdeau; store hours vary

Passage Thiaffait used to be a crime-infested alley, but, today, you need not fear anything so much as a stray cat. Named after Monsieur Thiaffait, the alley, which connects Rue René Leynaud and Rue Burdeau via two white staircases, is lined with chic boutiques, cafés, and artist workshops. Peruse the shops’ offerings on your way to lunch in the Croix-Rousse district, but don’t budget more than 20-30 minutes for this significant, yet small sight. The surrounding pastel-colored buildings do make for a good Instagram post, though.

i Free; no wheelchair accessibility

PLACE BELLECOUR

Place Bellecour; 04 72 77 69 69; open daily 24hr

Place Bellecour holds the title of the largest square in Lyon and the largest pedestrian square in all of Europe. Today, it doesn’t seem like much, except for an expanse of Mars-red pavement, a statue of Louis XIV in the middle, a tourist office, and a Ferris wheel for kids and adults who haven’t quite grown up. Back in the day, however, the square itself held much more significance: it was the sight of royal parades for the king and executions via the guillotine during the French Revolution. Although the square isn’t too spectacular in the daytime, give it another try in the evening when the Ferris wheel lights up in a display of vibrant colors.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

MUSEUMS

MUSÉE DES BEAUX ARTS

20 Pl. des Terreaux; 04 72 10 17 40; www.mba-lyon.fr; open M, W-Th 10am-6pm, F 10:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm

At last, the chance to hang with our artistically inclined pals: Monet, Picasso, and Gauguin. It feels like centuries since we’ve last gotten together! Probably because their art is from around a hundred years ago. Man, walking through all these carefully curated wings with art from Impressionists, Modernists, and Renaissance art really takes us back to Monet’s fascination with landscapes, that time Pablo discovered Cubism, and Paul’s trip to Tahiti that he won’t stop painting about! When we’re finished with our rendez-vous, we’re going to the extensive sculpture hall featuring works by Rodin, as well as the antiquities wing with Ancient Egyptian, Greco-Roman, Muslim, and Ottoman relics.

i Permanent collection admission €8, students €4; temporary exhibition admission €12, students €7; last entry 5:30pm; audio guide €1 in French, English, Italian, free downloadable app; wheelchair accessible

LUGDUNUM: MUSÉES GALLO-ROMAIN DE FOURVIÈRE

17 Rue Cleberg; 04 72 38 49 30; www.museegalloromain.grandlyon.com; museum open Tu-F 11am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm; archaeological site open daily Apr 15-Sept 15 7am-9pm, daily Sept 16-Apr 14 7am-7pm

If we had to name one thing Lyon is proud of, it would have to be its importance during its time as Lugdunum, a city of the Roman Empire founded in 43 BCE. Now, we agree, it’s kind of weird to look back fondly on practically being colonized and ruled by an outside power (Stockholm Syndrome, anyone?), but Lugdunum was a powerhouse that laid the groundwork for the city Lyon became. The museum, which details everything about the ancient city—from its religious practices to palace structures to stunning mosaics—is expansive, spanning four descending floors. As cool as all this is, walking between artifact after artifact can get a little dusty and dry. Thankfully, you can actually climb the steps of the Gallo-Roman theatre outside. Just don’t fall—it’s steep!

i Permanent collection admission €4, students under 26 €2.50, free under 18; temporary exhibitions admission €7, students under 26 €4.50; last entry 5:30pm; wheelchair accessible

MUSÉES GADAGNE

1 Pl. du Petit Collège; 04 78 42 03 61; www.gadagne.musees.lyon.fr; open W-Su 11am-6:30pm

This museum is actually two museums in one: the Lyon History Museum (MHL) and the Puppetry Museum (MAM). Why these two museums are housed together in a stunning seventeenth-century building is beyond us, but what we can say is that they are both carefully curated and informative. The Puppetry Museum, although a bit creepy, features hundreds of puppets including Guignol, a beloved puppet who symbolizes the speech and la vie quotidienne of the Lyonnais. The history museums take you through 30 rooms of Lyonnais history, including its rise as the Roman city of Lugdunum to the rise of Catholicism to the city’s importance as an economic and intellectual hotspot. Our favorite part was the room from the eighteenth-century describing how the elite developed a love for decorative arts. (Because what else do rich people have to do?)

i Admission €6, students €4, free under 18; temporary exhibition admission €8, students €6; last entry 6pm; tours M, W-F 10am-noon, 2pm-4pm, Tu 2pm-4pm, must book in advance, adults €3, children €1; wheelchair accessible

OUTDOORS

PARC DES HAUTEURS

Montée Nicolas de Lange; 04 72 69 47 60; open daily 24hr

Directly meaning “park of heights,” the Parc des Hauteurs is more a hiking trail than anything else. The park, or trail, rather, connects the top of Fourvière Hill to the cemetery of Loyasse. There’s a gold rose petal path that you can follow towards the La Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière or explore the rosary garden within the park. We recommend packing a lunch before coming up so that you can enjoy the views of Lyon’s orange-tiled rooftops and the Sâone River.

i Free; last tram to Fourvière at 10pm; no wheelchair accessibility

PARC DE LA TÊTE D’OR

69006 Lyon; 04 72 69 47 60; www.loisirs-parcdelatetedor.com; mid-Apr-mid-Oct 6:30am-10:30pm, mid-Oct-mid-Apr 6:30am-8:30pm

On the east side of the Rhône lies a massive green space in the middle of Lyon’s urban landscape: Parc de la Tête D’Or. Comparable to New York City’s Central Park (although perhaps not as grand or expansive), the 117-hectare plot has everything you could want in a day outdoors: a lake filled with geese, a rose garden, and a zoo. For those of us that prefer the wonders of the great indoors, the northern side of the park houses the Musée d’Art Contemporain. But, honestly, why wouldn’t you appreciate a leisurely stroll in the greenery for a respite from the chaos of the otherwise bustling city?

i Free; wheelchair accessible

FOOD

ATHINA ($)

3 Rue Romarin; 04 78 72 86 61; open Tu-Su noon-2pm and 7pm-10pm

There’s a certain charm about small places, and Athina definitely has it. With only about six or seven tables, Athina boasts fast service and not-to-miss deals on Greek staples, including flavorful pork and chicken pitas with a side of scrumptious fries. Pair your meal with Greek beer and sit back as you enjoy your meal in the airy space, complete with inviting teal walls that make you feel like you’re by the Mediterranean.

i Entrées from €6; cash only; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

L’AUBERGE DES CANUTS ($$)

8B Pl. Saint Jean; 09 86 50 89 66; www.auberge-des-canuts.com; open daily 8am-midnight

If you’re looking for a taste of bouchons Lyonnais on a budget, you’ve hit the spot. Located just steps away from the Cathédrale Saint-Jean de Baptiste with walls reminiscent of the cobblestone streets of Vieux Lyon, L’Auberge des Canuts serves traditional dishes such as pork sausages in a red wine sauce on its convienent prix-fixe menu (€15.90). The staff only begins to prepare your next course once you’ve finished the one in front of you, so take your time. They’re in no rush and you shouldn’t be either. When you finally make it to dessert after savoring pork sausages in red wine sauce, and your server asks you if you want your fromage blanc with fruit sauce, say oui without hesitation. It’s truly a treat.

i Entrées from €14, prix-fixe menu from €16; card minimum €20; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

CAFÉ 203 ($$)

9 Rue de Garet; 04 78 28 65 66; www.moncafe203.com; open noon-1am daily

If you’re looking for a place for the perfect rendez-vous, look no further than Café 203. This bustling restaurant, although not an official bouchon, serves up traditional Lyonnaise dishes and then some. If you’ve had one too many sausages on your trip thus far, don’t shy away from ordering one of Café 203’s burgers or risottos for a good dose of familiarity. While you munch on your meal, in either the non-smoking or smoking area of the restaurant, look around at the tavern-like décor and listen to the friendly conversations of the locals and fellow tourists dining around you. And while the beer and wine are cheaper than the water on the menu, Café 203 will give you complimentary tap water with your meal (a rare occasion in Europe). Drink up!

i Entrées from €13, burgers from €12, beer and wine from €2.50; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

A CHACUN SA TASSE ($)

2 Rue du Griffon; open M-Sa 8am-7pm

For a quick bite or petit déjeuner, swing by this tea shop, located a few blocks away from Place des Terreaux. Decorated in a warm orange with framed paintings hung on the walls, this café offers a wide array of teas, including green teas, black teas, and rooibos. The teas are steeped to perfection before being served. While you wait for your flavorful brew, pick up a French magazine on the café’s bookshelves to brush up on your language skills or look smart as you attempt to read a piece on the EU’s economic policy. For just €5.50, we were able to get a pot of delectable rose black tea and a plain croissant to start our day off on the right note.

i Pots of tea from €3.50, pastries from €2; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

DIPLOID ($)

18 Rue de la Platière; 04 69 67 58 93; open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 10am-7pm, Su 11am-7pm

An open space just a few blocks away from Place des Terreaux, Diploid is the perfect place to catch your breath with a cup of perfectly roasted coffee or freshly brewed tea. Diploid boasts a bright and welcoming atmosphere complete with calming teal blue walls, lights hanging from the ceiling, and wooden floors. Take your cappuccino with the locals as they work on their laptops using the café’s free Wi-Fi, or converse with friends as upbeat English indie tunes play in the background. Diploid also offers a lunch menu that changes every now and then. Choose from a sandwich, entrée, or salad of the day and take a seat in the back room to enjoy your meal.

i Lunch from €10.50, coffee and tea from €3; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NIGHTLIFE

THE MONKEY CLUB ($$)

19 Pl. Tolozan; 04 78 27 99 29; www.themonkeyclub.fr; open M noon-2pm, Tu-W noon-2pm and 6:30pm-1am, Th-F noon-2pm and 6:30pm-3am, Sa 6:30pm-3am, Su 11am-4pm

This is the kind of place Don Draper would go for after-work drinks on a particularly stressful day. Or perhaps any day he can find an excuse for a drink, which means every day. Straight out of the set of Mad Men, The Monkey Club features a deep red interior with armchairs and dim lighting to set the mood for recovering from a long day of work. The bar is mostly frequented by locals, who order quality wines or shots that the bar aptly names prescriptions. Sadly, the drinks are relatively pricey, so save this venue for a planned splurge on the town or if you somehow find yourself a job to whine—we mean wine—about.

i Cocktails from €11, shots from €5, beers from €5: BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible

BOMP! ($)

1 Pl. Croix-Paquet; 09 73 18 78 43; open M-W 10am-1am, Th-F 10am-3am, Sa 4pm-3am

Café by day, restaurant in the afternoon, and bar by night, you could probably spend the whole day at Bomp! and never leave. Like most French shops and restaurants, the kitchen does close in the middle of the day though, so that’s probably not the best idea. Bomp! has a space for every occasion: tables that spill onto the narrow sidewalk, an open, well-lit café area with round tables to chill with old friends and new, and an upstairs bar area complete with foosball tables. With happy hour deals selling drinks for just three or four euros, swing by for a lively night to meet locals (who are probably smoking outside) late into the night.

i Entrées from €10, beer and wine from €3, mixed drinks from €5; limited wheelchair accessibility

GROOM ($$)

6 Rue Roger Violi; www.groomlyon.com; open Tu-W 7:30pm-1am, Th 7:30pm-2am, F-Sa 7:30pm-4am

Tucked away under Away Hostel and Coffee Shop lies the new, hip kid on the block: Groom. With a dark interior and bright, popping lights—mostly the pink and white variety—Groom boasts a menu full of out-of-the-box cocktails intended to spice up your night. The cocktails, which start at around €12, are pricey, so if you’re looking for something more budget-friendly, choose from their selection of beer and wine. Groom also has mocktails for those who want to stay sober, making it a perfect place for all kinds of party animals. And to make sure you party safe, there are empanadas on the menu to make sure those cocktails don’t go down alone. Check out their online schedule of events before selecting a night to go—the club frequently hosts live concerts, often with no cover.

i Beer and wine from €5, cocktails from €12, empanadas from €4; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

NICE

Coverage by Kristine Guillaume

Let’s be honest. You came to Nice for the sunny beach days on the unfathomably blue waters of the French Riviera. And that’s not such a bad idea. Nice is one of the most affordable cities along the Côte d’Azur, which may sound strange because it’s hard on the budget-conscious backpacker wallet. But compare the city to its more bougie neighbors like Cannes and Monaco and you’ll see what we mean. Nice boasts the picturesque Promenade des Anglais lined with many public beaches for you to perfect your tan. It’s also centrally located among the other cities in the area, making it the ideal home base for daytrips to places such as the aforementioned Cannes and Monaco as well as Antibes, Menton, and Eze. Some backpackers even claim that those cities are nicer than Nice itself. But let’s not make the mistake of thinking Nice is just for the coast and sun. The city has boatloads of culture for you to discover, including the works of Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall, and Russian orthodox aristocrats. When you’ve had enough sun, take a moment to discover the more artsy side of the city. It’s nice, we promise.

ORIENTATION

Nice is one of many cities on the renowned Côte d’Azur, otherwise known as the French Riviera. The city center is located on the Bay of Angels, a long stretch of beach that starts at the airport and culminates in Colline du Château (Castle Hill), which is obviously a hill just in front of Vieux Nice, the old part of the city located southeast of the city center. To get to the city center from Gare Nice Ville, you’ll most likely walk down the boutique-lined Avenue Jean-Médicin, which ends in the city’s largest pedestrian center: Place Masséna. From Place Masséna, you can walk straight onto the Promenade des Anglais for an incredible view of the Bay of Angels. The Port, located east of Castle Hill, is less touristy than Vieux Nice, but still has some of the best cheap restaurants in town. Slightly north of the city center is Cimiez, site of the former Roman city, Cemenelum, which is now filled with villas, including the Matisse Museum.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

If flying into Nice, you will land at Aéroport de Nice-Côte D’Azur, from which you can take express buses #98 and 99 into the city center (€6). The buses run every half hour from 6am-midnight. Alternatively, you can walk 10min. to a train station, Saint-Augustin, and take it one stop to Gare Nice Ville, Nice’s main train station. The train ticket costs €1.60 and it is the same train that runs to Monaco and the Italian city of Ventimiglia. If traveling via train, you will dock at Gare Nice Ville, which connects to multiple cities along Côte D’Azur, Lyon, and Paris. Train tickets are usually expensive (€70 from Lyon, €100 from Paris), so it might be better to take a bus. We recommend Ouibus.

GETTING AROUND

Nice is easily walkable. The main train station is a 10min. walk from the city center and Vieux Nice (Old Nice). The city does have an extensive public transport system called the Ligne d’Azur consisting of over 130 bus routes that extend to villages in the Maritime Alps and a tram line that makes a U-shape through the city center and Vieux Nice running from 4:35am-1:35am. A solo-ticket for one journey costs €1.50 and a 24hr pass costs €5. Be sure to validate your ticket each time you board a bus or tram to avoid paying hefty fines. In the summer, it’s a great idea to bike along the Promenade des Anglais. For that, use Velo Blue, which costs €1.50 with the first 30min. of travel free.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tourist Offices: Promenade des Anglais Office du Tourisme (2, Promenade des Anglais; 08 92 70 74 07; www.nicetourisme.com)

Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Banks and ATMs are ubiquitous throughout the city, but this branch of BNP Paribas is not too far from Place Masséna (2 Bd. Victor Hugo; 820 82 00 01; open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 2pm-7pm).

Post Offices: The main post office, called La Poste, is located across from the main train station (21 Av. Thiers; open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-12:30pm).

Public Restrooms: There are public restrooms on the Promenade des Anglais. One of them is located right outside Plage Beau Rivage (107 Quai États-Unis).

Internet: The city offers free Wi-Fi at certain tourist offices and parks. There also are various cybercafés. You can also rent out a Wi-Fi hotspot at the Tourist Office for €7.90 per day.

BGLTQ+ Resources: Centre BGLTQ+ Côte d’Azur (123 Rue de Roquebillière; 09 81 93 14 82; www.centrelgbt06.fr; open M, W, F 9:30am-8pm, Sa 2pm-8pm)

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Emergency Number: 112

Police: Central Police Station (1 Av. Maréchal Foch; 04 92 17 22 22; open daily 24hr, foreign visitor reception desk open daily 9am-5pm) For lost and found, go to Police Municipal (42 Rue Dabray 3906; open M-Th 8:30am-5pm, F 8:30am-3:45pm).

US Embassy: The nearest US consulate is in Marseille (Pl. Varian Fry; 01 43 12 48 85).

Rape Crisis Center: In case of all problems, call 115.

Hospitals: Many of the medical centers are located on the outskirts of the city. The Tourist Office recommends heading to Hôpital Pasteur in case of an emergency, although children would be better served at Lenval Hospital.

• Hôpital Pasteur: 30 Voie Romaine; 04 92 03 77 77; open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 9am-5:45pm

Pharmacies:

• Pharmacie Masséna: 7 Rue Masséna; 04 93 87 78 94; open daily 24hr

ACCOMMODATIONS

HOSTEL ANTARES ($$)

5 Ave. Thiers; 04 93 88 22 87; reception open 6am-3am

When Mowgli and Baloo sang about the bare necessities, they must have been talking about Hotel Antares. Conveniently located five minutes from the train station, Antares provides air-conditioned rooms and ensuite bathrooms cleaned by staff daily with replenished soaps, towels, and shampoo. The noise from the trains at night can make its way into your room, but it’s a small sacrifice for the security that the hostel offers featuring a 3am curfew and cages under the beds large enough to fit your backpack. It’s not the prettiest or most entertaining hostel in the world, but it does share a common room with neighboring Hostel Baccarat to provide for ample socializing on beachy summer nights.

i Dorms from €17, privates from €60; max stay 7 nights; Wi-Fi; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; linens, towels included; lockers available

HOSTEL BACCARAT ($$)

39 Rue d’Angleterre; 04 93 88 35 73; reception open 7am-3am

Baccarat offers affordable, basic accommodations with cages under every bed to ensure the security of each guest’s belongings. Located just a 10min. walk from Place Masséna, the hostel creates a social environment for every kind of backpacker with its spacious shared common room, which has a kitchen, Internet room, and lounge where you can meet your fellow travelers before retiring to a good night’s sleep.

i Dorms from €24, doubles from €80, singles from €60; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility; laundry facilities; linens, towels included

HOSTEL VILLA SAINT EXPÉURY BEACH ($)

6 Rue Sacha Guitry; 04 93 16 13 43; reception open 24hr

Hostel Villa Saint Expéury’s main selling point is that it’s closest to the Bay of Angels and seafront. Located just off Avenue Jean Médecin, this hostel is just steps away from Place Masséna with a sauna, ping pong table, and happy hours for party-hungry backpackers. For solo-travelers, this is a great place to stay since the staff coordinates events such as pub crawls, sailing excursions, and daily yoga to keep things social and entertaining—even away from the pebbly beaches of Nice. So take advantage of the spacious common areas and comfortable rooms on your hours away from the Promenade des Anglais—you’re bound to have a fun and wonderful stay.

i Dorms from €18, privates from €40; Wi-Fi; wheelchair accessible; linens included; lockers, laundry; luggage storage

SIGHTS

CULTURE

CATHÉDRALE SAINT-NICOLAS DE NICE (RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL OF NICE)

Av. Nicholas II; 09 81 09 53 45; www.sobor.fr; open daily 9am-6pm, access restricted from noon-2pm for celebrations

One of the few remaining structures from Byzantine times, the Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas is a marvel of Russian architecture. Candy-style cupolas that could’ve been uprooted from Saint Petersburg adorn the cathedral, and bells ring every half hour. Do a full 360-degree walk around the grounds to fully examine the building’s blends of red, teal, white, and gold before heading inside to admire the arguably more gorgeous interior. Russian icons and gold motifs decorate the interior. Be sure to cover your knees and shoulders before heading in—even if it is one of those hot summer days. Women should bring some sort of scarf as a head covering if they plan to walk inside the cathedral.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS COURS SALEYA (COURS SALEYA FLOWER MARKET)

Cours Saleya; 04 92 14 46 14; open Tu-Sa 6am-5:30pm, Su 6am-1pm

Make sure to pack those OTCs in your backpack, although we’re not sure if any dose of Claritin, Allegra, or Zyrtec can save you from the pollen-fest of the Marché aux Fleurs in Vieux Nice, the city’s old quarter. Just steps away from the waterfront, the market is filled with refreshing aromas of every flower imaginable. Besides flowers, the stands offer everything from scented soaps to fresh vegetables to ripe fruits, so you can solve your backpacker BO and get your daily dose of vitamins in one shot.

i Prices vary by stand; wheelchair accessible

PALAIS LASCARIS

15 Rue Droite; 04 93 62 72 40; Jan 2-June 22 M, W-Su 11am-6pm, June 23-Oct 15 M, W-Su 10am-6pm, Oct 16-Dec 31 M, W-Su 11am-6pm (closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, Dec 25)

In the middle of the winding paths of Vieux Nice (Old Nice) lies Palais Lascaris, a seventeenth-century aristocratic building that serves as a musical instrument museum. The unassuming exterior opens up into a lavish and ornate interior, complete with beautifully decorated ceilings and gold-painted walls. Palais Lascaris is home to the second-largest collection of musical instruments in all of France, including cigar box guitars, harps with intricately painted flowers, and more oboes and clarinets than Squidward could ever imagine. Built in the sixteenth century by the family of Jean-Paul Lascaris, the house still has much of the furniture (including paintings of fat men) you’d expect of a French aristocratic family. Word to the wise: don’t budget too much time for this museum, as your visit will be under an hour.

i Admission €6, students and under 18 free, part of Municipal museums day ticket €10; last entry 5:30pm; guided tours F at 3pm €6; no wheelchair accessibility

LANDMARKS

PLACE MASSÉNA

15 Pl. Masséna; 06 29 64 10 12; open daily 24hr

What makes Place Masséna so unmistakable? Is it the red Pompeiian buildings on all its sides? The brightly lit Ferris wheel that can be viewed from a mile away? The perhaps overly massive fountain of the Greek god Apollo on the checked black and white patterned pavement? Or maybe it’s just the fact that it’s smack in the middle of Nice and you will, without a doubt, walk through it on your way to the waterfront every day. Just after sundown, statues of seven naked men light up on raised poles in every color of the rainbow. It’s kind of like a PG Burlesque show that kids can watch, but only adults really understand. Cher and Christina, where you at?

i Free; wheelchair accessible

COLLINE DU CHÂTEAU (CASTLE HILL)

Montee du Chateau; open daily Oct 1-Mar 31 8:30am-6pm, Apr 1-Sept 30 8:30am-8pm

Get in some cardio by climbing this 300-foot hill for an aerial view of the coastline you won’t get anywhere else. The site of the former Château de Nice, the Castle Hill today is, for lack of a better word, crumbling, but there is a certain charm in its age that you’ll discover as you navigate through the maze of paths, many (many) stairs, and stunning array of greenery. Before making your way to the summit, stop by Bellana Tower for the view of the Bay of Angels and you’ll forget all about how your thighs hurt from the countless flights of stairs. If cardio isn’t your thing, there is an elevator that will take you up to the top, where you’ll find a playground, a man-made waterfall, and views of the port.

i Free; limited wheelchair accessibility

MUSEUMS

MUSÉE MATISSE

164 Av. des Arènes de Cimiez; 04 93 81 08 08; open daily Jan 2-June 22 11am-6pm, June 23-Oct 15 10am-6pm, Oct 16-Dec 31 11am-6pm

It’ll take you a bus ride to get here, but once you arrive at this gorgeous red Genoese villa, you won’t think twice about the commute. This small museum houses many of Matisse’s earliest works, including paintings, sculptures, and cutouts. Although the museum doesn’t house his most famous works (you’ll find those throughout the rest of France and the world), it does offer an in-depth look into Matisse’s life and the time he spent in the French Riviera, most significantly in Nice. When you’ve finished with your daily dose of artist trivia, take a walk around the surrounding Arènes de Cimiez, the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre.

i Municipal museums day ticket €10, 7-day ticket €20, day group ticket €8 per person, free (children under 18, students, unemployed, disabled civilians, journalists); last entry 5:30pm; tours upon request; wheelchair accessible

MUSÉE MARC CHAGALL

6 Av. Dr Ménard; 04 93 53 87 20; www.muse-chagall.fr; open Nov 1-May 1 M, W-F 10am-5pm, May 2-Oct 31 M, W-F 10am-6pm (closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25)

There’s something perfectly soothing about the modernist’s collection, which is housed in an expansive, open space with natural light. Fun fact: Chagall claimed that the “universe of light” is necessary to truly appreciate his artwork, which we don’t exactly understand, but, whatever it is, it’s working. When you’ve finished examining the stained glass windows and 17 biblically inspired paintings, check out the olive garden in which the museum is situated and yeah sure, then you can make your way back to the beach.

i Admission €10, reduced €8, under 18 free, free admission first Su of month; last entry 5:30pm; audio guide available; wheelchair accessible

MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE ET D’ART CONTEMPORAIN DE NICE (MAMAC)

Pl. Yves Klein; 04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac-org; open Jan 2-June 22 Tu-Su 11am-6pm, June 23-Oct 15 Tu-Su 10am-6pm, Oct 16-Dec 31 Tu-Su 11am-6pm

So abstract. So confused. Those are perhaps the two thoughts running through our minds as we climbed the many lit-up stairs of MAMAC. The building has magnificently open and airy galleries featuring everything from American pop art to the work of Yves Klein, painter and performance art pioneer, including his monochrome collection with works solely in the color blue. Some of our favorite pieces include a pile of trash, a pile of rocks, and a pile of boxes—all reminders of why our parents are terrified of us suddenly deciding to drop everything and become artists. The museum’s true highlight is, however, the top floor, where you can walk around the terrace and admire views of Nice, including the Tete Carée.

i Admission €10, groups €8, students free; wheelchair accessible

OUTDOORS

PLAGE PUBLIQUE DE PONCHETTES (PONCHETTES BEACH)

70 Quai des États Unis; lifeguards on duty June 1-Sept 3 9am-6pm

You’ll have the perfect beach day at any beach along Promenade des Anglais, but we recommend Ponchettes. This beach boasts a prime location just to the side of Castle Hill, a military citadel, and in front of Vieux Nice, the city’s old quarter. Be warned that the beaches in Nice aren’t exactly the sandy seafronts you might have imagined. Instead, you’ll be walking through smooth pebbles, which is a surprising relief, since you won’t get sand stuck in places sand should never be. Join the sunbathers, beach volleyball players, and swimmers by the shore to enjoy the ever-present sun on the Côte d’Azur.

i Free; no wheelchair accessibility

PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS

Promenade des Anglais; 07 12 34 56 78 Usually, Tinder bios that mention long walks on the beach are a red flag. But walks along the Promenade des Anglais are a different story. This expansive stretch of seafront sidewalk, complete with chairs and benches to admire the unbelievably blue water and pebble beaches of the French Riviera, is filled with beach-goers, annoyingly over-eager children, topless women, joggers, and everyone in between. You could easily spend an entire day hopping from beach to beach with sporadic walks on the Promenade des Anglais, but we also recommend renting a bike and using the cyclists’ lanes for some exercise down by the sea.

i Free; wheelchair accessible

FOOD

SOCCA D’OR ($)

45 Rue Bonaparte; 04 93 56 52 93; www.restaurant-soccador-nice.fr; open M-Tu 11am-2pm and 6pm-10pm, Th-Sa 11am-2pm and 6pm-10pm

An authentic local hang, Socca D’Or is just steps away from the pier and offers a chance to try the Niçoise specialty: socca (duh). Socca, a chickpea pancake from Genoa, and we recommend getting a demi-plate along with a large pizza or salad. When in doubt, just order what the person next to you is having. You’ll be in luck if it happens to be one of the restaurant’s scrumptious desserts, like a caramel crêpe. On particularly hot days, sit inside and admire paintings of the port, or brave the heat and sit on the restaurant’s sidewalk terrace for a true Nice experience.

i Socca from €3, pizzas and salads from €8, beer and wine from €3; cash only; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

MONACO

Monaco seeks to disprove those who say “size matters.” Second to none in class and style, the tiny, two square kilometer Principality of Monaco is an independent city-state surrounded by French territory. Known as a private getaway for the affluent, mainly due to the no-income-tax rule for residents, Monaco calls to mind stacks of dollars, euros, pounds, pesos, or rupees. Housing the famed casino, Hôtel de Paris, and pavilions abundant with designer brand storefronts, the Monte Carlo neighborhood is the glam capital of the world. Stick to the army of tourists, avoid unwanted glances, and do a lot of eyeballing. They can’t charge you for looking inside, right? Aside from Monte Carlo and the accompanying Grand Prix, however, Monaco has a stunning Old Town with a royal palace built on Le Rocher, which overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. The entire city-state can be knocked out in one day, if done properly. Get prepared, dear budget backpacker: you’re entering high roller town.

Monaco is divided mostly into four different areas. Towards the western part of the city-state, on the Rock of Monaco, is Monaco-Ville, the old, fortified part of the city. Here, you’ll find the Prince’s palace and some of the cheaper restaurants and shops. To the west of Monaco-Ville is Fontvieille, the newest areas, that houses the stadium of AS Monaco (yes, even this city-state has a football team. This is Europe). North of Monaco-Ville is La Condamine, which is right at Port Hercule. This is the starting point of the famed Grand Prix. Finally, east of Condamine is Monte-Carlo. Popularized by Selena Gomez, Monte-Carlo is the most luxurious and famous area of Monaco where you’ll find the famous Monte-Carlo Casino and Hôtel de Paris.

GETTING THERE

Getting to Hallstatt is easiest by train. Trains stop at many towns surrounding the lake; Hallstatt’s station is across the lake from the town itself. A ferry runs back and forth between the station and the center of town, and is both a convenient and fun way to start your visit (€2.50 one-way). Buses also loop from Hallstatt back and forth between Obertraun and Bad Goisern.

GETTING AROUND

Given Monaco’s small size, you can save a ton by walking. Some parts of the city—like the palace—are built on a rock, so you’ll spend a good portion of your day on an incline. Monaco does have a transport system for people who don’t own private helicopters or yachts. The public bus transportation consists of five bus lines. A one-way ticket is €2 on-board the bus and €1.50 if purchased in advance at a machine. The buses usually run from 6am-9pm. A night bus operates from 10pm-4am. There is also a boat bus that crosses the harbor for €2.

Swing by…

CASINO DE MONTE CARLO

Pl. du Casino; 92 16 20 00; www.fr.casinomontecarlo.com; tours open 9am-1pm, gambling open 2pm-4am

Luxurious casinos frequented by millionaires isn’t what comes to mind when you hear the word “backpackers.” But we’ll be damned if we don’t try. Here’s how to get in: Pass the fortified barrier of Ferrari and Lamborghinis parked outside. Avoid the snarky glances of doormen as they check your bag. You belong here. Act the part. Be Jay Gatsby. Be James Bond. Once you’ve played this small melodrama in your head, realize you’re surrounded by mobs of tourists like yourself who want to see how the 1% lives. So, come early to explore the golden-clad walls, marble pillars, and magnificent chandeliers all while listening to the history of the casino with an audio guide. From 2pm onwards, the casino is 18+ and the gambling commences in a different renowned salle.

i Admission from €12, children 13-18 from €8, children 6-12 from €6; audio guide available; wheelchair accessible

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