Читать книгу The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part V - Shotguns - J B Wood - Страница 12

Browning Auto-5

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Browning Auto-5 also apply to the following guns:

Remington Model 11

Remington Model 11B

Remington Model 11 E

Remington Model 11R

Remington 11A

Remington 11D

Remington 11F

Data:	Browning Auto-5
Origin:	Belgium and/or Japan
Manufacturer:	Fabrique Nationale, Herstal, for Browning, Morgan, Utah
Gauges:	12,16, and 20
Magazine capacity:	4 rounds
Overall length:	47 inches
Barrel length:	24 to 30 inches
Weight:	6 1/8 to 8 1/4 pounds

Designed by the great John M. Browning just before the turn of the century, this fine gun was introduced in 1900. There have been tiny mechanical changes over the years, but the basic design is absolutely unchanged. At one time, both Remington and Savage made versions of the gun, during periods when the original Belgian model was not marketed in the U.S. The instructions will generally apply to the Remington Model lls, but not to the Savage, which is mechanically different. In this revised edition, the Savage is covered separately.

Disassembly:

1. Pull back the operating handle to lock the bolt in the open position, and set the safety in the on-safe position. Depress the barrel slightly toward the rear, and unscrew and remove the magazine end cap. Take off the forend and barrel toward the front.

2. The ejector is mounted in a T-slot at the left rear of the barrel extension, and is retained by a riveted cross pin. In some models, it is solidly fixed, and in others it has an opening at the center and slides to the rear. In both cases, it should be removed only for repair. The riveted pin is driven out inward.

3. Remove the bronze friction piece and its attached spring toward the front.

4. Remove the compression ring toward the front. If the gun has been used with light loads, the ring will be found "stored" at the rear of the recoil spring.

5. Remove the recoil spring toward the front.

6. Hold the operating handle to restrain the bolt, depress the carrier latch button, and ease the bolt forward to the closed position. Remove the lock screw, then the stock screw, in the reartip of the lower tang. It should be noted that for all screws on this gun, you will need screwdrivers with very thin blades. If necessary, alter some screwdrivers for this purpose. Remove the buttstock toward the rear. If it is very tight, bump the front of the comb with the heel of the hand or a rubber hammer.

7. Remove the lock screw, then the main screw on the left side of the receiver, just above the front of the trigger housing.

8. Remove the lock screw, then the main screw on the left side at the lower rear of the receiver.

9. Remove the trigger group downward.

10. Remove the carrier spring from its post on the left side of the trigger housing. Note that on early guns, this spring will be mounted on a post inside the receiver, and must be detached at the front, then moved off its post inward for removal.

11. Move the safety to the off-safe position, tip the safety sear (arrow) forward, restrain the hammer, pull the trigger, and ease the hammer forward until its roller disengages from the tip of the hammer spring.

12. Drift out the hammer cross pin, and remove the hammer from the trigger housing.

13. Remove the hammer spring screw, located on the underside of the rear tang of the trigger housing. Note that the spring is not removed at this time.

14. Insert a small screwdriver at the front of the safety sear to depress the plunger and spring, and remove the safety sear toward the left. Caution: Keep the plunger under control, ease it out, and remove the plunger and spring upward.

15. Lift the hammer spring at the front, and remove it upward and toward the front.

16. Push out the small cross pin in the rear tang of the trigger housing. Removal is easier if the trigger spring is slightly depressed in the vicinity of the pin.

17. Remove the trigger spring upward and toward the rear.

18. Invert the trigger housing over the palm of the hand, and move the safety to free the detent ball. If it does not drop out easily, tap the housing with a nylon hammer.

19. Drift out the trigger cross pin, and remove the trigger upward.

20. Remove the safety toward the right.

21. Remove the lock screw and the large carrier pivot screw on each side of the receiver.

22. Remove the two sections of the carrier down-ward. Note that on early guns. the carrier will be a single part.

23. The dog and its plunger and spring are retained on the rear section of the carrier by a cross pin that is riveted in place, and this should be removed only for repair. If it is necessary, drift out the pin inward (toward the left), and be sure the carrier section is well supported.

24. Restrain the bolt spring plug at the rear of its housing, push out the cross pin, and remove the plug, spring, and follower toward the rear. Caution: The spring is powerful and is under tension. Control it, and ease it out It is possible to also unscrew the housing (tube) from the rear tang of the receiver, but this is not advisable in normal takedown.

25. Move the bolt back to the position shown, until the locking block latch pin is aligned with the exit cut in the lower edge of the ejection port. Insert a drift punch through the access hole in the left side of the receiver, and push out the pin toward the right.

26. Removal of the pin will release the locking block latch from the bottom of the bolt. Remove the latch and its spring.

27. Move the bolt to the rear, swinging the link bar out-ward. Restrain the operating handle, and move the bolt forward, leaving the handle at the rear.

28. Swing the link bar back inside, and remove the bolt assembly toward the front.

29. Move the operating handle unit forward, and remove it from the ejection port.

30. Drift out the cross pin at the rear of the bolt toward the right, and remove the firing pin toward the rear.

31. Push the front of the link bar upward, tipping the locking block out the top of the bolt, and remove the assembly upward. Drifting out the cross pin at lower rear of the locking block will release the link bar for removal.

32. The extractors and their coil springs are retained on each side at the front of the bolt by vertical pins. Drift out the pins downward, and take off the extractors and springs toward each side.

33. Remove the magazine cut-off spring screw, located on the left side at the forward edge of the receiver, and take off the spring toward the front.

34. On early guns, the magazine cut-off, carrier latch, and shell stop are retained by vertical screws set in the lower edge of the receiver. In later guns, such as the one shown, these parts are retained by roll pins. For removal, the pins are drifted upward, and exit holes are provided inside the receiver. Use a roll pin punch to drift the magazine cut-off pin upward.

35. Remove the magazine cut-off toward the left.

36. Drift out the shell stop pin upward, and remove the shell stop and its spring from inside the receiver.

37. Drift out the carrier latch pin upward, and take out the latch and its release button from inside the receiver. Note that the carrier latch spring is riveted in place, and is not routinely removed.

38. Insert a screwdriver in the open center of the magazine spring retainer, and pry the retainer out, moving the screwdriver to raise it equally around its edge. Caution: The magazine spring is under tension, so control the retainer and ease it out. Remove the spring and follower toward the front. Removal of the magazine cut-off spring screw will have freed the magazine tube, and it can be unscrewed from the receiver.These are tightly fitted, though, and are best left in place in normal takedown.

Reassembly Tips:

1. When replacing the pivot pins for the carrier latch, shell stop, and magazine cut-off, drive them in the same direction they were removed, upward. Take care that the parts are properly aligned before driving the pins into place. Insert a drift punch to insure alignment, then hold the parts in place with a fingertip while the pins are inserted. Be sure the pins are not driven too deeply, as their upper ends can enter the bolt track.

2. In the later guns that have the two-piece carrier, the parts may be difficult for the amateur. In this photo, the parts are shown in the proper position.

3. When installing the combination trigger and safety detent spring, use a tool to depress the spring at the cross pin location, and insert a drift punch to hold the spring down while putting in the cross pin. It will be necessary to depress the spring on the other side as the pin is inserted, and the end of the cross pin must also be depressed as it enters the hole on the other side of the tang.

4. When installing the trigger group in the receiver, insert the group as shown, replacing the rear cross screw first. As the group is swung up into position for insertion of the front cross screw, use a tool at the rear to tip safety sear forward, to insure that its upper arm enters the open track in the center of the link bar.

5. When replacing the compression ring (arrow) and friction piece at the front of the recoil spring, these parts should be in the position shown for medium to heavy loads, with the concave inner surface of the ring to ward the front. For light loads, place the reversed ring at the rear of the spring, next to the receiver.