Читать книгу The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part V - Shotguns - J B Wood - Страница 14

Browning BPS

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns:

10 Gauge Turkey & Camo Models

Waterfowl Camo

Game Gun Deer Special

Game Gun Turkey Special

Stalker

Micro

Data:	Browning BPS
Origin:	United States
Manufacturer:	Made in Japan for Browning, Morgan,Utah
Gauges:	10, 12,20,28, and .410
Magazine capacity:	4 rounds (12 gauge)
Overall length:	46-1/2 inches
Barrel length:	26 inches (others offered)
Weight:	7-1/2 pounds

Miroku of Japan has made the BPS for Browning since 1977. Some elements of its design are similar to the Ithaca Model 37, but the mechanical details and takedown are not the same. The BPS has been offered in numerous models, gauges, and barrel lengths. All are mechanically the same, and the instructions will apply.

Disassembly:

1. Cycle and close the action, and put the manual safety in on-safe position. Unscrew the magazine cap, and remove the barrel toward the front. NOTE: If you have one of the Game Gun versions, you must also remove the barrel-stabilizing lock washer and split ring before the barrel is taken off.

2. Use a suitable tool, such as a roll-pin drift or the Brownells tool shown, to push out the trigger-group cross pin.

3. Tip the trigger group downward at the rear, and remove it downward and rearward.

4. As the trigger group is taken out, the shell stops on each side will be released for removal.

5. Turn the trigger group as shown, and depress the slide lock at the front. The slide-lock lever will fall off its post on the left side.

6. Restrain the hammer, pull the trigger, and ease the hammer forward to fired position. Keep the hammer under control. If it impacts the crosspiece, the slide lock can be damaged. If necessary for repair, the trigger-groupcross-pin sleeve and it sattached spring can be drifted out toward the right. However, it retains no parts, and can be left in place.

7. Using a suitable tool, detach, the sear spring from its stud on the sear, and remove it. The spring is slightly compressed, so control it.

8. Use a proper roll-pin punch to drift out the trigger-spring retaining cross pin. Block the hole at the rear as the punch is taken out, as the spring will be released.

9. Remove the trigger spring and plunger toward the rear. The plunger may not come out with the spring, but it can be easily pushed out after the trigger is removed.

10. Keep a finger on top to restrain the slide lock spring, and push the trigger cross pin slightly toward the left until the arm of the spring is released. Ease the spring arm over toward the front, releasing its tension. Caution: Control the spring.

11. Push the trigger pin out toward the left, and remove the trigger upward. Because of the attached disconnector, the trigger will have to be turned slightly during removal.

12. The disconnector is retained on the trigger by a C-clip on the right side. If removal is not necessary for repair, it is best left in place.

13. Restrain the hammer, and push out the slide-lock cross pin toward either side.

14. Ease the hammer forward, move the slide-lock assembly forward, and take it off upward. The slide lock-spring is easily detached.

15. Restrain the hammer, and push out the hammer pin toward either side.

16. Remove the hammer assembly toward the front. The twin-hammer springs, spring guides, and the spring-base cross pin are easily detached from the hammer.

17. Push out the sear cross pin, and remove the sear upward.

18. Move the action slide to align the bolt with the trigger group recesses in the receiver, and lift the bolt slide piece at the rear for removal. Take out the action bar assembly toward the front. Separating the action bar from the forend wood requires a special tool for the retaining nut at the front, and it is best left in place except for repair.

19. Remove the bolt from the receiver.

20. Drifting out this roll pin will allow removal of the locking block from the bolt.

21. The firing pin is retained by a vertical roll pin at the rear of the bolt.

22. This roll pin retains the extractor and its coil spring. As the roll-pin drift is taken out, restrain the extractor

23. To keep the tool centered in the cross-pin depression, use a roll-pin punch to drift out the carrier pin. Use a 5/32 punch.

24. The carrier-pin retainer will be freed inside the receiver for removal.

25. Remove the carrier.

26. Given the precise mating of the manual safety post with the safety stud on the trigger, this system should not be disassembled routinely. It is retained by a 5/16-inch nut inside the receiver, and there is an adjustment screw inside the nut. The safety button and its plunger and spring are taken off upward. Again, amateur disassembly of this system is not recommended.

Some notes here on three other items, one of which could not be photographed inside the receiver: The rear continuation of the sighting rib on the top front of the receiver is internally retained by two vertical screws. The buttstock is retained by a through-bolt from the rear, accessible by removal of the buttplate. The magazine spring and follower can be removed by carefully prying out the retainer at the front of the magazine tube. Caution: Keep the retainer and spring under control.

Reassembly Tips:

1. When installing the sear cross pin, remember that the squared recesses on the pin must go toward the front, to mate with the hammer springs.

2. When installing the trigger cross pin, use a tool with a notched tip to depress the rear arm of the slide-lock spring to go beneath the pin.

3. Note that the sear spring has a slightly larger coil at one end, and that end goes at the front, lo mate with the stud on the sear.

4. Before the trigger group is put back into the receiver, be sure the stepped ends of the hammer cross pin are turned to the position shown. Also, it will be necessary to hold the shell stops in their recesses in the receiver as the trigger group is moved into place.