Читать книгу The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part V - Shotguns - J B Wood - Страница 8

Tools

Countless firearms, old and new, bear the marks, burrs, and gouges that are the result of using the wrong tools for taking them apart. In the interest of preventing this sort of thing, I am including here a group of tools that are the best types for the disassembly of shotguns. Except for the few shop-made tools for special purposes, all of those shown here are available from one of these sources.

Brownells Inc. Route 2, Box 1, 200 S. Front St. Montezuma, Iowa 50171

B-Square Company P.O. Box 11281 Fort Worth, Texas 76109

General Instructions:

Screwdrivers: Always be sure the blade of the screwdriver exactly fits the slot in the screw head, both in thickness and in width. If you don't have one that fits, grind or file the tip until it does. You may ruin a few screwdrivers, but better them than the screws on a fine shotgun.

Slave pins: There are several references in this book to slave pins, and some non-gunsmith readers may not be familiar with the term. A slave pin is simply a short length of rod stock (in some cases, a section of a nail will do) which is used to keep two parts, or a part and a spring, together during reassembly. The slave pin must be slightly smaller in diameter than the hole in the part, so it will push out easily as the original pin is driven in to retain the part. When making a slave pin, its length should be slightly less than the width of the part in which it is being used, and the ends of the pin should be rounded or beveled.

Sights: Nearly all dovetail-mounted sights are drifted out toward the right, using a nylon, aluminum, or brass drift punch.

1. The tiniest of these fine German instrument screw drivers from Brownells is too small for most gun work, but you'll see the rest of them used frequently throughout the book. There are many tight places where these will come in handy.

2. When a larger screwdriver is needed, this set from Brownells covers a wide range of blade sires and also has Phillips- and Allen-type inserts. The tips are held in place by a strong magnet, yet are easily changed. These tips are very hard. With enough force you might manage to break one, but they'll never bend.

3. You should have at least one good pair of bent sharp- nosed pliers. These, from Brownells, have a box joint and smooth inner faces to help prevent marring.

4. For heavier gripping, these Bernard parallel-jaw pliers from Brownells have smooth-faced jaw-pieces of unhardened steel to prevent marring of parts.

5. For situations where a non-marring rap is needed, this hammer from Brownells is ideal. It is shown with nylon faces on the head, but other faces of plastic and brass are also available. All are easily replaceable.

6. For drifting out pins, these small all-metal hammers from B-Square are the best I've seen. Two sires (weights) are available and they're well worth the modest cost.

7. For situations where reach and accessibility are beyond the capabilities of sharp-nosed pliers, a pair of large sharp-nosed forceps (tweezers)will be invaluable.

8. One of the most-used tools in my shop is this nylon tipped drift punch, shown with an optional brass tip in place on the handle. It has a steel pin inside the nylon tip for strength. From Brownells, and absolutely essential.

9. A good set of drift punches will prevent a lot of marred pins. These, from Brownells, are made by Mayhew. The tapered punches at the right are for starting pins, the others for pushing them through. Two sizes are available-4 inches or 6 inches.

10. These punches by Mayhew are designed specifically for roll pins and have a projection at the center of the tip to fit the hollow center of a roll pin, driving it out without deformation of the ends. From Brownells.

11. Some of the necessary tools are easily made in the shop. These non-marring drift punches were made from three sizes of welder's brazing rod.

12. This firing pin bushing spanner wrench from B-Square adjusts to fit all bushing holes, from 3/16" to 7/16" spacing. The pins are replaceable.

13. Designed to fit the Winchester Model 12, this forend cap nut wrench from Brownells is also usable on several other slide-action shotguns.

14. One of three stock wrenches from B-Square, this one is designed especially for use on the Rernington Model 1100.

15. Conceived by former Gun Digest associate editor, Bob Anderson for B-Square, this handy tool is designed for pushing out the trigger group retaining cross pins in the Remington shotguns, and will work on several others. A rubber ring at the base of the shaft protects the side of the receiver.

16. Another of the B-Squarestock wrenches, this short version is designed especially for the Remington Model 870, but will work on several other guns.

17. This wrench from B-Square is for easy removal of the deeply recessed forend cap nut on the Remington Model 870.

18. For restaking the shell stops on several of the Remington shotguns, this heavy tool from B-Square makes an awkward job a simple operation.