Читать книгу The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part V - Shotguns - J B Wood - Страница 15

Browning Superposed

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Browning Superposed also apply to the following guns:

Browning Citori

Browning ST-100

Browning B-27

Browning Lightning

Browning Liege

Browning B-25

Browning 8-1 25

Data:	Browning Superposed Over/Under
Origin:	Belgium
Manufacturer:	Fabrique Nationale, Herstal (FN) for Browning Morgan, Utah
Gauges:	12,20,28,410
Overall length:	46 inches(with 30-inch barrel)
Barrel length:	26-112 to 32 inches
Weight:	6 3/8 to 8 pounds

One of John M. Browning's last designs, the Superposed shotgun has been made since 1927, and is still in production. In 1974 a lower priced model called the Liege was introduced, and was made for about 2 years. A second moderately-priced version, the Citori, was offered in 1975, and is still in production. The internal mechanism of all the Browning over/under guns has enough similarity that portions of the instructions can be applied to each of them. The gun shown in the photos, however, is an early Superposed.

Disassembly:

1. Operate the forend latch by pushing the latch lever toward the rear, then pivoting the lever outward.

2. Slide the forend forward until it stops, and swing the cocking lever lifter out of its recess in the front underside of the receiver.

3. Operate the barrel latch, tip the barrels downward, then remove them toward the rear and upward.

4. Remove the cross screw on the left side near the lower edge of the forend.

5. Slide the forend wood forward until it clears the mechanism, and remove the wood downward.

6. Drive out the large cross pin in the forend base, tho pivot for the forend latch.

7. Remove the latch lever downward. Drifting out the cross pin at the front of the latch lever will allow removal of the lever release and its spring.

8. Slide the forend base mechanism forward until it stops, then remove it downward.

9. Pushing out the small cross pin near the large retaining pin will allow removal of the cocking lever lifter downward.

10. Trip the ejector hammer sears by inserting a tool in the slots in the rear face of the forend base, to allow the ejector hammers to snap toward the rear, relieving part of their spring tension.

11. Grip the tip of the ejector hammer spring plunger (guide) with sharp-nosed pliers, and tilt the pliers to lever the nose of the guide out of its depression on the back of the hammer. Caution: The spring is still under some tension, so control it and ease it out. Remove the spring and guide toward the rear, and repeat the operation on the other spring and guide.

12. Drifting out the large cross pin at the rear of the forend base will release the ejector hammers for removal toward the front.

13. The ejector hammer sears are retained on each side by small pins in the upper wings of the forend base, and these pins are contoured on the out-side to match the curve of the base. These are difficult to locate, and if possible should be left in place. If removal is necessary for repair, each pin must be driven out inward to release the sears and their springs.

14. Move the ejectors back until the hole in the side of each one aligns with the retaining screw. Back out the screws, and remove the ejectors toward the rear.

15. After the ejectors are removed, the ejector extensions can be slid out toward the rear. It is not necessary to remove the stop screws.

16. Remove the two screws in the rear tail of the trigger guard. The guard is not removed at this time.

17. Remove the buttplate, and use a B-Square slock tool or a long-shanked screwdriver to remove the stock mounting bolt, lock washer, and washer toward the rear. Take off the buttstock toward the rear.

18. Turn the trigger guard straight out to either side, and remove it downward.

19. With the hammers in cocked position, it is possible to remove both firing pins without further disassembly. The upper firing pin is retained by a cross pin that is driven out toward the right, and the firing pin is removed toward the rear.

20. The cross pin that retains the lower firing pin is drifted out in the opposite direction, toward the left, and the lower firing pin and its return spring are taken out toward the rear. The upper firing pin has no spring.

21. Operate the trigger and intertia block to trip both sears, dropping the hammers to the fired position. Insert a tool behind each hammer spring guide, and lever them outward, disengaging the nose of the guide from the recess in the back of each hammer. Caution: These strong springs are under tension, so control them during removal.

22. Drift out the trigger cross pin.

23. Move the trigger forward and downward, detaching the inertia block from the underlug of the safety button. Slide the trigger connector downward, detaching it from the inertia block. Restrain the inertia block spring and plunger, as these parts will be released as the connector is moved downward. The trigger is removed downward, and the inertia block toward the side. Drifting out the small cross pin in the trigger will allow removal of the trigger plunger and its spring toward the rear.

24. Use a tool to lift the front tab of the safety spring out of its recess, and rotate the spring straight out to either side. The spring is removed downward, and the safety button and small spacer block upward.

25. Drift out the cross pin at the top of the receiver, in the upper tang, and remove the sears and their springs downward and toward the rear.

26. Taking care not to damage the rear tips of the ejector trip rods, drift out the hammer pivot pin, and remove the hammers toward the rear.

27. Slide the ejector trip rods straight out toward the rear. Keep them separated, as they are not interchangeable.

28. Remove the barrel latch spring base screw, on the right side of the receiver, and take off the base and spring toward the rear.

29. Drift out the large cross pin near one lower edge of the receiver.

30. Remove the cocking lever downward and toward the rear. Remove the screws at the top and bottom of the insert at the rear of the receiver tangs, and slide the insert (arrow) out toward the right.

31. Insert a drift punch in the opening on the underside of the receiver, against the lower end of the barrel latch lever shaft, and tap it gently upward for removal.

32. The latch lever dog is retained in the lower end of the lever shaft by a cross screw that is contoured to match the curve of the shaft. Unless necessary for repair, the dog and screw should be leif in place.

33. Move the barrel latch block straight out toward the rear. It may be tight, and may require nudging with a drift to free it.

Reassembly Tips:

1. When replacing the small spacer block in the safety button slot, be sure it is installed between the two lower projections of the safety button, with the groove in the block at the rear and downward, as shown, to align with the spring cuts in the upper tang.

2. When replacing the barrel latch spring, note that its larger end goes toward the front, with the smaller end engaging the stud on the spring base.

3. When replacing the barrel latch lever, move the barrel latch block to its normal protrusion at the front, and with the latch lever centered on the upper tang, tap the lever gently with a nylon hammer to seat the dog in its recess on the block. If the lever fails to move into place, use no extreme force. Move the locking block slightly until it is in proper alignment.

4. The ejector trip rods are usually marked for each side, the ones shown having a small "O" and "B" mark to signify "over" and "below." This is not always the case, though, and it's best to keep them separate during disassembly.