Читать книгу Riverford Farm Cook Book: Tales from the Fields, Recipes from the Kitchen - Jane Baxter - Страница 16
ОглавлениеAsparagus is the ultimate challenge for an organic grower. After two failures, I am saving it for a retirement project. All perennial crops (i.e. ones that come back year after year rather than being planted annually) are difficult, but the likes of rhubarb and globe artichokes at least stay where you put them, coming up in more or less the same place each year. They have the additional advantage of casting a dense foliage, which helps to suppress weeds, unlike the thin, feathery foliage of asparagus.
A weedy annual crop can be ploughed in and quickly forgotten but a good asparagus bed will keep down for eight to ten years. During that time, it will need almost constant labour to control weeds. Mechanical, inter-row cultivation is rendered impossible by the rampant root system and spreading nature of the plant, combined with the random emergence of spears. In the non-organic crop, weeds can be controlled with selective herbicides during the summer, followed by a dose of blanket, kill-it-all glyphosate once the asparagus foliage has died back in the winter. In the organic system, mulches and ground covers may help but in the end there is usually no alternative to getting down on your hands and knees.
After a few half-hearted attempts, I am ashamed to say that much of the asparagus we sell is imported from Andalusia. Two farmers in our co-op, undeterred by my gloomy predictions, have recently planted substantial acreages, so I hope that they are going to prove me wrong; mind you, I have met many organic growers who reckon they have cracked it, but when I return a few years later their beds are invariably submerged in weeds. I am tempted to say that if you want in-season, UK-grown organic asparagus, you can grow it yourself. Leave the courgettes and runner beans to us and go for a real challenge. Truly fresh asparagus justifies all the hard work, but unless you grow it yourself you are going to have to be prepared to pay through the nose for it.
Asparagus is easiest to grow in low-rainfall areas and on sandy soils, so clay loams like ours in the damp west of England are always going to be difficult. Slugs can be a problem, especially for young crowns, but at least rabbits normally give up after an initial graze, allegedly because it makes their pee smell weird (I’m not sure who worked that out).
Depending on the area, the year and the variety, picking starts in early May and runs through to mid or late June, when the crowns must be left to ensure that the plant can grow enough foliage to put energy back into the roots for the following year.
Storage and preparation
Asparagus should always be kept in the fridge and, like so many things, is best when fresh. Standing it upright in a little water will help to preserve its life. The flavour is normally most intense in the tip, becoming sweeter lower down. Smaller spears tend to be produced at the beginning and end of the season and can be slightly tougher than their fatter cousins. White asparagus is normally grown on very sandy soils by cutting the spears well below ground level once the tip breaks the surface. It is less fibrous and often sweeter.
The base of the asparagus stalk is tough, and you generally need to cut off the bottom inch or so; the point at which the stalk snaps cleanly is a good guide to where to trim. The trimmings are good for making stock, to be used in an asparagus soup or risotto.
We like asparagus best sprinkled with salt and olive oil and maybe a few thyme leaves, then roasted in a hot oven (200°C/Gas Mark 6) for about 5–7 minutes. This seems to intensify the flavour. You can also steam it, but if you don’t have a steamer, chuck the trimmed asparagus into a deep pan of boiling salted water for 2–3 minutes (more for really chunky spears), ideally with the stems in the water and the heads in the steam above. They really don’t need much more than salt, and maybe some butter and lemon, or hollandaise sauce. A real treat with a poached egg, (see Stir-fried Asparagus), or dipped in a softboiled egg.
A vegetarian alternative to the classic dish – although it has to be said that a little shredded prosciutto added with the egg lifts it to a different level. This is a good way of stretching a single bunch of asparagus to feed 4.
Serves 4
1 bunch of asparagus
350g spaghetti or linguine
4 eggs
50g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, plus extra to serve
1 tablespoon chopped chives, basil or tarragon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prepare the asparagus by breaking off the end of each woody stalk and chopping the rest into 1.5cm pieces.
Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water until al dente, adding the asparagus 3 minutes before it is done. In the meantime, beat the eggs together well. Drain the pasta and asparagus, transfer immediately to a large warmed bowl and add the eggs, Parmesan and some salt and pepper. Mix well. The heat from the pasta will cook the eggs. Sprinkle with the herbs and serve immediately, with extra Parmesan.
Other vegetables in season could be added to bulk out this simple stir-fry – try sugarsnap peas, broccoli or spinach. Serve with grilled fish or chicken and rice.
Serves 4 as an accompaniment
1 bunch of asparagus
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
1 teaspoon brown sugar
a pinch of dried chilli flakes (optional)
1 small can of water chestnuts, drained and thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
a bunch of chives, cut into 2cm lengths, and/or some chopped wild garlic leaves
2 tablespoons soy sauce
sea salt
Prepare the asparagus by breaking off the end of each woody stalk and then cutting the spears in half. Heat the oil in a wok, add the asparagus, sugar and some salt and stir-fry over a moderately high heat for about 3 minutes. Add the dried chilli, if using, followed by the water chestnuts, garlic, chives and/or wild garlic leaves, plus 3 tablespoons of water, and cook for 2 more minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in the soy sauce and serve immediately.
Easy ideas for asparagus
♦ Toss asparagus spears in a little olive oil, then cook on a ridged griddle pan or barbecue until tender. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and season lightly.
♦ Serve cooked asparagus topped with a poached egg, a couple of slices of prosciutto and a few Parmesan cheese shavings, plus a drizzle of olive oil and some freshly ground black pepper.
♦ Serve cooked asparagus with Pine Nut Salsa (see Easy ideas for artichokes).
♦ Individually wrap boiled asparagus spears in a slice of smoked salmon or good ham.
