Читать книгу Haircutting For Dummies - Jeryl E. Spear - Страница 49

When examining the hair, follow these steps to discover hair growth patterns:

1 Lift up the whole back of the hair without using any tension. Horizontally part and drop the first ½ inch (1.3 centimeters) of the entire neckline. Does it lie flat, partly flat, or is it going every which way in specific areas?Continue doing this all the way up to the crown while carefully checking for unusual growth patterns. If cowlicks or whorls are present at the neckline, a straight-down neck design is nearly impossible. To avoid a cutting fail, design the neckline according to the natural growth patterns.

2 Do the same thing on the sides of the hair, the top, and the front hairline (see Figure 4-2 to view an image of a cowlick).

3 Run your fingers through the hair. Do you feel small areas where hair is growing in swirls, or strongly growing in a forward position? If you do, check how resistant they are to your touch. When you move them in the opposite direction at the scalp, do they stiffly resist, roll over and obey, or do something in between these two extremes?

After you’ve found all the whorls and swirls and other strong growth patterns, you can suggest styles that will not force them into a different shape, use them as part of your hair design, or hide them in plain sight using the right haircutting and styling techniques, and styling aids (see Figure 4-3).

Photographer: Tom Carson (www.tomcarsonphoto.com); Hair: Ozzy Habibi; L Salon & Color Group, San Mateo, California

FIGURE 4-3: Whenever possible, integrate a strong cowlick into your cutting design.