Читать книгу Haircutting For Dummies - Jeryl E. Spear - Страница 58

Cutting angles can be straight or curved:

 Straight angles can be horizontal (straight across), vertical (straight up or straight down), or diagonal (at an angle, most common is 45-degrees). Straight cutting lines create strong cutting lines.

 Curved angles are customized to the curvature of the head and what you want to accomplish. For instance, a curved angle can seamlessly connect where the top of the head meets the parietal ridge. Curved cutting lines create softer end shapes.

See Figure 5-5, which visually explains different cutting angles, and Figure 5-2 to view the location of the top and parietal ridge.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.; Illustration by Rashell Smith

FIGURE 5-5: Haircutting angles determine the shape of each haircutting section. Taking all angles used in a haircut into consideration, they determine the overall shape of the finished haircut.

Figures 5-6 and 5-7 show straight cuts and rounded or oval cuts.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.; Illustration by Lisa Reed

FIGURE 5-6: When you are cutting a straight-across perimeter on one-length hair, you are cutting a horizontal line.

Fingers play an important role in cutting hair by holding each cutting section at the desired elevation. Using the second and third fingers of your non-cutting hand, grip the cutting section at the proper elevation with moderate tension and move your fingers to the desired angle. Following your top finger, trim the hair.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.; Illustration by Lisa Reed

FIGURE 5-7: When you are cutting a rounded or oval perimeter on one-length hair, you are cutting a curved line.

To practice cutting angles, you can do the following activity. I suggest that you practice all the cutting angles shown in Figure 5-3.

1 Identify the four points at the top of the head (see Figure 5-3).

2 Create the top section by parting the hair and using the four points as the guideposts for your section.

3 Pin away the rest of the hair to avoid cutting confusion. Dampen the top section.

4 Part out a ¼-inch (0.6 centimeter) deep and a 2-inch (5 centimeters) side-to-side subsection.

5 Comb the hair straight up (90-degrees) from the scalp (see Figure 5-4).

6 Holding the hair with your second and third fingers of your non-cutting hand, position them so they are horizontal to the scalp and ½-inch (1.3 centimeters) away from the ends. Following your finger angle, trim ¼-inch (0.6 centimeter) off the ends (Figure 5-3).

Repeat these practice steps, cutting the ends at vertical and diagonal angles. Lastly, practice curved angles.