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Degrees of elevation are based on the hair’s direction at the scalp. How high or low you hold the hair determines whether the hair will be cut at a 0-degree elevation for a blunt, one-length bob; a 135-degree elevation for a long-layered haircut; a 90-degree elevation for more structured layers; and so on (see Figure 5-4).

© John Wiley & Sons; Illustration by Lisa Reed

FIGURE 5-4: There may be six degrees of separation, but these are the five main degrees used when cutting hair.

Know your degrees of elevation:

 0° = combed straight down

 45° = equidistant between 90° and 0°

 90° = straight out from the head

 135° = equidistant between 90° and 180°

 180° = straight up from lower area of the head

The Golden Rule of Elevation: Anything below a 90-degree elevation adds weight to the hair design; anything above a 90-degree elevation removes weight from the hair design. You’ll be referencing this diagram often as you cut your way through this book, so make sure to bookmark or dog ear this page.

As you’re getting familiar with elevations, try this quick activity. Nab a resident human (or yourself). Separate and comb different areas of the hair into various elevations that are detailed in Figure 5-4. Notice how elevations above 90-degrees create a diffuse, light layering, while holding the hair at 90-degrees (straight out from the scalp) creates bulkier, more defined layers.