Читать книгу Haircutting For Dummies - Jeryl E. Spear - Страница 60

A stable guide — also called a stationary guide — is used to create weight, reduce weight, or add graduated layers that seamlessly become longer. As the name implies, a stable guide does not move around during the haircut. Instead, the hair is directed to the guide.

The following are cutting instructions for using a stable guide on a layered haircut (shown in Figure 5-8). This example removes a little weight off the top of the hair for added lift. By only cutting ¼ inch (0.7 centimeter) of length, the cut section will still blend with the rest of haircut. You can do this twice before needing a full haircut.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.; Illustration by Rashell Smith

FIGURE 5-8: A stable or stationary guide.

What you’ll need: Mannequin, family member with a layered haircut, or your own hair; your new scissors (for human hair) or old scissors (for synthetic hair or processed human hair commonly used for wigs and hair extensions); a cutting comb; and a spray bottle filled with water to wet the hair. (I’m a wuss, so I always use warm water.) If you don’t have a spray bottle handy, dip your comb in a bowl of water.

When you’re ready, follow these steps:

1 Make a middle part at the top of the head and comb the hair down on either side of the part to ensure the hair is smooth and tangle-free.

2 Separate a ½-inch (1.3 centimeters) section of hair on either side of the middle part. Comb the middle and side partings together (see Figure 5-8).This is now your cutting section. Pin away the remainder of the hair. Dampen and comb the cutting section to ensure even saturation.

3 Comb and hold your cutting section at a 90-degree elevation (straight up) from the scalp.

4 Comb this section once more and hold the hair with your second and third fingers of your non-cutting hand. Slide your fingers up to about ½ inch (1.3 centimeters) away from the ends. Place your fingers at the exact angle as the existing cutting line, which may be a horizontal or a diagonal cutting line.Take your time. If you don’t clearly see the cutting line on the ends of the hair, dampen it a little more and comb the ends for better visibility.

5 Following the existing cutting line, cut ¼ inch (0.6 centimeter) off the ends. This is now your stable guide.

6 Separate an identical ½-inch section on either side of your existing cutting section. Dampen the hair and comb it up to your stable guide. Make sure the hair is thoroughly combed from roots to ends. Identify the stable guide and remove ¼-inch length of hair.

7 Continue repeating the pattern in steps 2 through 6 until the entire top to just below the recession area on both sides has been cut.