Читать книгу The Uke Book Illustrated - John Weissenrieder - Страница 8

Wood glue

Spring clamps

Lighting

Ruler

Coping saw

Left bevel

Right bevel

Nippers

Hammer

Ryoba saw

Bar clamp

Angle

Chisel

Tape

Wood scraper

Dozuki saw

File

Rasp

Block plane

Pencils

Square

Sanding block

Glue spreader

Cam clamp

Chisels

The narrowest chisel is needed for a few key operations: cleaning out the slots for the sides in the heel block and preparing the binding channels. The 3mm chisel is useful in cutting the binding channels; the 6mm or 12mm chisel for trimming and shaping the fan struts and bars; and the wider chisel for general trimming and truing.

Double bevel

Left bevel

Right bevel

Small utility knife with long-pointed blades

Left, right, and double bevel are 19mm each. If you’re right-handed, the right bevel is the one you’ll use most often. Both left and right are needed, especially for the curves of the neck and heel block. The double bevel is handy but not essential; in a pinch, it could take the place of the other two.

Block plane with toothed blade

Finger plane

The toothed blade leaves a true surface that can be quickly smoothed using sanding blocks. It is also effective on difficult-to-work hardwoods. The finger plane speeds up and adds precision to the shaping of the fan struts. A sharp, well-tuned plane is a pleasure to use.

Ryoba

Dozuki

Coping saw

Saws include a 210-240mm ryoba (0.45mm-thick blade/0.6-0.7mm kerf for fret slots), 150mm dozuki, and a coping saw. The precise cuts necessary in instrument construction require sharp saws. The ryoba is for roughing out the neck and head. The dozuki’s fine, precise cut is just right for cutting the slots for the sides in the heel block. Keep one of the saws, such as the dozuki, as sharp as possible, using it for only the most important cuts.

Squares and rulers are needed for layout and marking. Use a 15-20cm ruler, a caliper (0.1mm accuracy is sufficient), a 60cm ruler, and a small combination or carpenter’s square.

Pencils are of course needed. Use fine (0.5-0.7)/hard (h) pencils for precise lines and soft 2b ones for general layout.

A note about measuring and marking: when precision is important, mark measurements using a “v,” the point indicating the desired dimension. The intersection of the two legs of the “v” indicates an exact, nearly dimensionless point, whereas a line has some thickness, not to mention that it may waver a bit.

Cutting the line

Leaving the line

Cutting the line vs. leaving the line: When an exact cut is called for, a crisp, clear, correctly placed line is essential. Don’t underestimate the importance of the proper use of a sharp pencil!

Cam clamps, 3

Bar clamps, 4: 50mm x 100mm

Spring clamps, 4

Clothespins

Kerfed lining clamps

Several long-legged clamps are needed to straddle the side and put pressure on the kerfed linings while the glue dries during the 1st and 2nd phases of assembly. 10 are sufficient if the linings are glued in 3 phases, or 30 if it’s to be done in one go.

These clamps are very simple to make and work perfectly. They can be made from easily found materials. The exact dimensions are not critical. Legs of 6mm x 9mm are sturdy enough.

The ingenious thing about these clamps, aside from their simplicity, is the sliding pivot block.

If the pivot is positioned near the rubber band, the clamping force is low and the clamps are easy to open.

Once positioned, the pivot is slid upward to the tip of the legs, increasing the “lever” length and the clamping pressure. Feel the difference?

The best “rubber bands” for these come from a bicycle inner tube, cut to size, to dial in the strength of the clamps.