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STOCKING YOUR FILIPINO PANTRY

One of the stumbling blocks to cooking a great Filipino meal is the perceived lack of available Filipino ingredients. But considering the fact that Filipino cuisine is heavily influenced by the cuisines of China, Spain, Mexico, and the U.S., and because Filipino cuisine shares many similar ingredients to other Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam and Thailand, it is very likely that you'll be able to find the ingredients you need without traveling too far from your home. With the proliferation of large Latin and Asian markets, as well as smaller markets that specifically cater to Southeast Asians, the world of Filipino food is more accessible now than ever before.

While I'm fortunate enough to live near a large Asian grocery store, as well as a small Filipino market, I can usually find many ingredients in my local supermarket as well. So even if you live in a small town without any ethnic markets, it is still possible to find all the ingredients you need from the ethnic foods aisle at your regular grocery store, or by ordering more hard-to-find items from the internet.

The following is a list of the Filipino ingredients I use most often; the same ingredients I relied upon to write this book. This isn't a conclusive list that will turn your kitchen into Little Manila, but it is a list to get you well on your way to preparing dozens of Filipino dishes.

ANNATTO SEEDS (ACHUETE): Part of the legacy from the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade, annatto seeds are usually steeped in cooking oil to produce annatto oil (see page 26). The annatto oil is then used to impart a beautiful—and natural—reddish-orange hue to any number of dishes.

BANANA KETCHUP/SAUCE: A sweeter, fruitier version of tomato ketchup, banana ketchup is, indeed, made from bananas. A popular condiment in the Philippines, banana ketchup is used as a dip for fries and a topping for burgers, but is also used with grilled meats and is a primary ingredient in Filipino Spaghetti (page 64). Artificially dyed a bright red hue to resemble tomato ketchup, banana ketchup can be easily found in Asian markets and in the Ethnic aisle of some supermarkets, but an all-natural and delicious version can be easily made at home (see page 24).

BANANA LEAVES: The large, pliable leaves of the banana tree are used for wrapping any number of steamed, grilled, or baked food items. The banana leaf not only makes for a great cooking vessel and “to-go” wrapper, but it also imbues a fragrant grassy aroma to whatever food is held inside.

BAY LEAVES: One of the primary ingredients in adobo s (page 68), it is also known as “laurel,” and imparts a depth of warmth and flavor with subtle woody and floral notes. Either dried or fresh bay leaves can be used, though the dried variety tends to have a stronger aroma and flavor than the fresh variety.

BITTER MELON (AMPALAYA): Also known as bitter gourd, are pale green in color with an irregular wrinkly surface and are, indeed, quite bitter in flavor. Bitter melons are reputed to have an abundance of health benefits and are used in dishes throughout the Philippines, though they are mostly used in the northern part of the archipelago.

CALAMANSI: Calamansi limes (also kalamansi or calmondin) are small citrus fruits that have the fragrance of mandarin oranges and the sour citrus flavor of lemons and limes. Calamansi limes are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter and range in color from green to orange. A squeeze, a squirt, or a spritz of calamansi nectar brightens up any dish—from noodles, to soups, to grilled meats and fish. Calamansi juice is also great when mixed into desserts and cocktails as well. Calamansi can sometimes be found at Asian markets or even at local farmers’ markets, so if you ever encounter these fragrant orbs, be sure to buy in bulk! I’ve found that 1 lb (500 g) of calamansi limes often yields between ¾ cup (185 ml) to 1 cup (250 ml) of juice. But the best way to ensure a steady supply of these wonderful limes is to grow your own tree in your back yard. Potted calamansi trees can often be found in the nursery department of hardware stores, and the small potted trees can be purchased online as well. And of course, fresh lemon juice or lime juice can always be substituted for calamansi.

BOK CHOY: A mild Chinese cabbage, it is favored in Filipino cooking because of its crunchy texture and versatility. And because it cooks so quickly, bok choy can be added at the last moment to stir-fries and soups to add crunch and a vibrant green color.

CASSAVA (KAMOTENG KAHOY): Cassava (also known as yucca or manioc) is a large tuber native to South America. Because of its very high starch content, cassava is primarily used in desserts and cakes in Filipino cuisine.

CHAYOTE (SAYOTE): Chayote (also known as mirliton) is a green pear-shaped squash with a large single seed in the center. Chayote is mild in flavor but retains a firm texture even when cooked, so it is often used in soups and stews in Filipino cuisine.

COCONUT MILK: Coconut milk is made from the shredded flesh of mature brown coconuts that is mixed with water and pressed. Coconut milk made from the first pressing is thicker and richer, while subsequent pressings produce thinner and less flavorful coconut milk. Although freshly made coconut milk is preferred in the Philippines, canned unsweetened coconut milk can be used with equally wonderful results. I prefer the Chaokoh and Arroy-D brands of canned coconut milk from Thailand, as they both are consistently flavorful and creamy. When working with canned coconut milk, always give the can a vigorous shake before opening, and then after opening the can, use a spoon to stir the coconut milk again before adding it to your dish.

DRIED RED PEPPER FLAKES: I use these spicy flakes to add a hint of heat to dishes when I don’t have fresh chili peppers on hand—though sometimes I use both at the same time to achieve different layers of spice.

EDAM CHEESE: Believe it or not, Edam cheese is a common ingredient in Filipino cuisine. Spheres of the Dutch cheese covered in red wax are traditionally given as Christmas gifts in the Philippines. The savory cheese is often grated onto many Filipino desserts as a salty counterpoint. Keep in mind that the Edam found in Asian markets is usually specifically marketed towards Filipinos and therefore tends to be saltier than Edam found in other grocery stores. Gouda makes a great substitute if you can’t find Edam.

EVAPORATED MILK: A convenience food introduced by the Americans, evaporated milk is milk that is boiled and processed until it has lost about half of its water content and then canned and sterilized. Canned evaporated milk is used primarily in Filipino desserts.

FERMENTED BLACK BEANS: Also known as Chinese dried black beans, these salty beans are made from fermented black soybeans and are used to season soups, stews, meats, and poultry. They can be found in Asian markets and are usually sold in plastic bags or cardboard containers. I prefer the Yang Jiang brand in a plastic bag.

FERMENTED FISH/SHRIMP PASTE (BAGOONG) : A very pungent and salty condiment that can be made from tiny fish or tiny shrimp. Bagoong alamang (also labeled as shrimp fry) is perhaps the most commonly available type of shrimp paste available in the States, and is often sautéed with garlic and shallots (page 26) and used as a condiment to enhance any number of dishes that need a salty kick.

FISH SAUCE (PATIS): Ubiquitous throughout Southeast Asia, fish sauce is an essential ingredient in Filipino cooking and is used not only to impart saltiness, but savoriness (umami) as well. Fish sauce is made from fermented anchovies. Although it has a very pungent aroma, if used properly it will not make your food taste “fishy.” Fish sauce can be used to season cooked dishes, but it can also be used as part of a dipping sauce (page 27). Shop for fish sauce that is light amber in color and labeled as being made from the first extraction of the fish. Keep in mind that the saltiness in fish sauce varies by brand. Rufina is a good brand of Filipino fish sauce, but Three Crabs (Vietnam), Red Boat (Vietnam) and Squid (Thailand) are also very good brands of fish sauce.

GINGER (LUYA): A rhizome rather than a root, ginger imparts a bright, sweet, zesty, and spicy flavor that I love to put into nearly everything I cook. When shopping for ginger, look for smooth and tight skin without any blemishes. Ginger with wrinkles tend to be older and more fibrous.

GREEN MANGO: Green mangoes are simply firm, unripe mangoes prized for their sour flavor. Usually sliced and served with bagoong for a salty-sour snack, green mangoes can also provide texture and tartness to raw salads. Look for green mangoes that are very firm and have a pale green skin. You can find green mangoes in Asian markets.

GREEN PAPAYA: Green papayas are simply unripe papayas that are mild in flavor rather than sweet. Green papayas have dark green skins with a firm white flesh and a cluster of seeds in the middle of the fruit. Green papaya is often pickled (page 22) but it is also used in a variety of Filipino soups.

JICAMA (SINKAMAS): A South American tuber, jicama is round with brown skin and white flesh. Because of its crispy texture, jicama is often eaten raw in salads, or even sliced like an apple and dipped in bagoong. I like to use jicama with smooth brown skins and that are no larger than the size of a softball as they tend to be easier to prep and slice.

KABOCHA SQUASH (KALABASA): A sweetish winter squash from Japan, kabocha are shaped like small pumpkins and have a dark green knobby skin with orange or yellow flesh. Commonly sold in 2–3 pound (1–1.5 kg) sizes in the supermarket, this squash is often used in soups and stews in the Philippines.

LEMONGRASS (TANGLAD): Lemongrass is an aromatic and edible species of grass that lends a beautiful lemon flavor and aroma without any acid. The whole length of a lemongrass stalk provides aroma, but only the tender bottom portion of the stalk is edible.

LONG BEANS (SITAO): Also called Chinese long beans, snake beans, or yard-long beans, long beans are indeed long green beans that usually measure 2–3 feet in length. Long beans are easy to find in the produce section in many Asian markets and are usually bundled together in bunches. Look for bright green specimens without any blemishes. Tender green beans are a suitable substitute for long beans.

MACAPUNO: Because of a natural occurring mutation, macapuno coconuts lack the water usually found at the center of regular coconuts. Instead, macapuno coconuts are solid throughout with a sweet jellylike flesh. Macapuno flesh is usually shredded, preserved in sugar syrup and packed in glass jars. Jars of macapuno can be found at Asian markets and labeled as “Macapuno Strings” or “Coconut Sport.” And because of the natural mutation of the coconut, don’t be alarmed if the label on a macapuno jar also reads “Mutant Coconut.”

MANGO: Ask any Filipino what their favorite fruit is and they are likely to say, “mangoes.” Although unripe green mangoes (page 16) are prized for their sourness in the Philippines, soft ripe mangoes are beloved and even lusted for in the Philippines. I’ve heard many arguments from Filipinos that ripe Philippine-grown mangoes are superior to any other mangoes from around the world. After having tasted a sweet, custardy mango in the Philippines myself, I have to agree. Philippine mangoes are incredibly smooth and are nearly devoid of any stringy fibers so prevalent in other mango varieties. Unfortunately, the mangoes labeled as “Manila Mangoes” sold here in the States are often actually grown in Mexico. Despite this misleading nomenclature, you can still find a great variety of mangoes in many grocery stores. When choosing mangoes, look for fruits with smooth taut skin. When ripe, the mango should feel heavy for its size, and it should smell sweet and deeply fruity. Lastly, give the mango a squeeze—it should be slightly soft and yield a bit to your fingertips.

MISO: A Japanese ingredient made of fermented soybeans, miso is often used to add flavor and savoriness to Filipino soups. Miso paste comes in a variety of shades and colors, with lighter shades being mild in flavor and darker shades being more robust. Miso can be found in the refrigerated section (usually right next to the tofu) at Asian markets and most large supermarkets.

MUNG BEANS (MONGGO) : Dried mung beans are used in a variety of ways in Filipino cooking. They are often ground and made into mung bean noodles (sotanghon), or cooked and sweetened for use in desserts, and also simmered to make hearty stews (page 55).

PANCIT NOODLES: There are as many types of pancit noodles as there are ways to prepare them. Here are the pancit noodles used in this cookbook:

Chinese-Style Wheat Noodles (Pancit Canton): Pancit canton are dried yellow noodles made from wheat flour, oil, and salt. They cook quickly, and are great in stir-fries.

Fresh Wheat Noodles (Pancit Miki): Unlike many other types of pancit noodles, pancit miki are often sold fresh in the refrigerated section of Asian markets. They are made simply from wheat, water and artificial colors, though I do provide a homemade version in this cookbook (page 58).

Mung Bean Thread Noodles (Pancit Sotanghon): Pancit sotanghon, also known as bean thread, or vermicelli noodles are dried noodles made from mung bean starch and water. Before cooking with them, these noodles must be soaked in very hot water until they become soft and translucent.

RICE FLOUR AND GLUTINOUS RICE FLOUR: Regular rice flour is made from milled long-grain rice and is very fine and light in texture. Rice flour is used to make a variety of desserts and dumplings in Filipino cuisine. My grandmother uses a Thai brand of rice flour called Erawan that can be found in Asian markets. I prefer this brand as well. Glutinous rice flour (also labeled as “sweet rice flour”) is milled from short-grain glutinous rice. Glutinous rice flour is also very fine and light and used in many desserts and dumplings. Again, the Erawan brand is preferred, but the Mochiko brand of sweet rice flour can also be used, though it is not as finely textured as the Erawan brand. For certain recipes, both rice flour and glutinous rice flour are used in tandem to affect the final texture of the dish.

SALT: The Philippines has its own variety of artisanal and locally harvested sea salts that rival those produced in other parts of the world. You can find gourmet Philippine sea salts in many upscale markets and from online retailers. Though I do love to use a fine-grained Philippine sea salt in my cooking, I often use kosher salt interchangeably with my Filipino sea salt.

SAMBAL OELEK: Though not a traditional ingredient in Filipino cuisine, I do love using this spicy chili paste in marinades because it easily mixes into liquids and provides a convenient form of heat and spice. Sambal oelek chili paste can be found in small plastic jars in Asian markets, as well as in some supermarkets—either in the Ethnic aisle or right next to other commercially prepared hot sauces.

SHALLOTS: An aromatic bulb that is similar to an onion, but smaller in size and milder in flavor, shallots are used raw or sautéed along with garlic and ginger in many Filipino recipes.

SMOKED SPANISH PAPRIKA (PIMENTÓN) : Made from ground chili peppers that are first dried and smoked over oak fires, smoked Spanish paprika lends a wonderfully rich and smoky flavor and aroma when sprinkled onto meats, poultry, and fish. It can be found in the spice aisle of most grocery stores, and it can also be ordered online.

STICKY RICE (MALAGKIT): Not to be confused with everyday long or short-grained rice, sticky rice is primarily used in desserts and snacks in the Philippines. Also known as glutinous rice or sweet rice, sticky rice has a higher starch content than regular rice and therefore becomes more sticky and chewy when cooked—hence its name. Regular white sticky rice can be found in Asian markets right next to other rice varieties, so be careful when reading the labels. In addition, a number of heirloom rice varieties grown in the Philippines are now becoming available in gourmet markets and from online retailers, so these are worth seeking out as well.

SOY SAUCE (TOYO): Introduced to the Philippines by Chinese traders, soy sauce is used as a dipping sauce as well as a seasoning to cooked dishes. I prefer to use the low sodium variety of the Kikkoman brand in my everyday cooking.

TARO (GABI): A tropical root vegetable valued for its starchy tuber, taro must be cooked to reduce its inherent toxicity prior to consumption. Taro root imparts a nutty-sweet flavor to dishes, and is used in soups such as sinigang (page 62). Taro leaves provide the greens for laing (page 46).

TAMARIND: The green unripe variety of tamarind pods is primarily used as a souring agent in Filipino cuisine—especially in the sour soup known as Sinigang. The most accessible forms of tamarind, though, can be found in Asian markets either in blocks of pulp, jarred as concentrate, or in packets of artificially flavored powder. Because of its artificial flavors and preservatives, I tend to stay away from the powdered tamarind (though many Filipino home cooks use them in a pinch). The jarred tamarind concentrate consists of only water and tamarind and is the easiest to use—just pour the contents out. To use the blocks of tamarind, soak 3 oz (75 g) of the tamarind pulp in 1 cup (250 ml) of hot water for a few minutes, and then strain out the seeds and pulp and use the tamarind water in the recipe.

THAI CHILI PEPPERS (SILING LABUYO): Also known as Thai bird or bird’s eye chili peppers, these small fiery pods are the spice of choice in the Philippines. They can be thinly sliced and tossed raw into dipping sauces, or added to cooked dishes for extra spice. Thai chili peppers are also often pickled (page 20).

VINEGAR (SUKA) : Vinegar is perhaps the most used (and thereby important) ingredient in the Filipino kitchen, due in large part to the extended shelf life bestowed upon food cooked in vinegar—a necessary culinary “voodoo” needed for tropical climes during the days before refrigeration. But aside from its preservative powers, vinegar is also used simply because an element of sourness is the most prevalent (and preferred) flavor in Filipino cuisine. For instance, vinegar is the key player in many Filipino dishes like paksiw, kinilaw (page 36), various dipping sauces, and a variety of different marinades. And of course, adobo (page 68) is perhaps the prime example of a vinegar-based Filipino dish.

In the Philippines, a variety of locally sourced, artisanal vinegars are made from the fermented nectar, sap, or juices found in different plants or fruits grown in the surrounding areas. Luckily, many of these vinegars can be found at Asian markets. Datu Puti, Tropics, and Masagana are all good brands from the Philippines.

The vinegars I list here generally hover between 4–5 percent acidity. And while each of them provide different nuanced flavors, they can generally be substituted for each other in the recipes of this cookbook. Also, for each recipe that uses a Filipino vinegar, I do provide a more accessible alternate (e.g. apple cider vinegar, white distilled vinegar, unseasoned rice vinegar).

Palm Vinegar (Sukang Paombong): Filipino Palm Vinegar is made from the fermented sap of the nipa palm. It is named for the region of the Philippines that is known for its Palm Vinegar—Paombong. Sukang paombong is cloudy white in appearance and has subtle notes of lemon and citrus.

Coconut Vinegar (Sukang Tuba): Filipino coconut sap vinegar is made from the fermented sap of a coconut tree and is perhaps the most used vinegar in the Philippines due to the abundance of coconuts. Sukang tuba is also cloudy white in appearance, with a slightly sweet smell. Despite its provenance, coconut vinegar lacks any coconut flavor or aroma, but is instead very pungent and sour. In addition to finding coconut vinegar in Asian markets, organic varieties of coconut vinegar can also be found (for a higher price) in health food stores.

Dark Sugarcane Vinegar (Sukang Iloco): Filipino cane vinegar from the Ilocos region of the Philippines is a byproduct of Ilocano sugarcane wine known as basi. Basi is made by pressing juice from the sugarcane, cooking the juice to a thick molasses state, and then placing the molasses in clay jars. The bark from the duhat (Java plum) tree is then added to the clay jars as a flavoring and fermenting agent. The molasses first turns into the alcoholic basi wine, but if left to ferment longer and sour, the basi then transforms to sukang iloco. Sukang iloco is dark brown in color and somewhat mellow in flavor, though it does have a hint of sweetness to it. Although Ilocano cane vinegar can be used in a wide variety of applications, I find it best when used in Ilocano foods such as longganisa (page 93) and empanadas (page 34). When sukang iloco is used in cooked dishes, such as an adobo (page 68), the final dish will have a very subtle sweet aftertaste.

White Sugarcane Vinegar (Sukang Maasim): White sugarcane vinegar is made from fermented sugarcane syrup. Sugarcane is first pressed for its juice and sap, and then the juice and sap are cooked and left to ferment into vinegar. Sukang maasim is only slightly cloudy, almost clear, and is relatively mild in flavor. It is an all-purpose vinegar good for use in everything from adobo to dipping sauces.

WRAPPERS: With a variety of styles of lumpia available in Filipino cuisine, it might be difficult trying to decide on which wrapper to purchase when rolling your Filipino spring rolls. Here are two readily available wrappers that will produce crisp lumpia with smooth skins:

Lumpia Wrappers: Filipino lumpia wrappers are thin, nearly translucent round skins made from wheat flour, water, oil, and salt. They are most commonly sold in sizes of 9–10 in (23–25 cm) in diameter in the frozen foods section of Asian markets. They should be completely thawed before use. When fried, lumpia wrappers remain smooth and crisp rather than having any bubbles in the skin. The Tropics brand of lumpia wrappers is a good choice.

Spring Roll Wrappers: Square spring roll wrappers can be used in place of round lumpia wrappers. Spring roll wrappers are similar to lumpia wrappers in that they are also comprised of wheat flour, water, oil, and salt. And also like lumpia wrappers, spring roll wrappers are super thin and fry up smooth and crisp. However, spring roll wrappers are usually sold in 8-in (20-cm) squares, rather than rounds. I actually prefer using square spring roll wrappers when rolling lumpia because I find the square shape slightly easier to work with. I prefer the Spring Home brand of spring roll wrappers—they are usually sold frozen in packages of 25.