Читать книгу The Adobo Road Cookbook - Marvin Gapultos - Страница 8
ОглавлениеTHE BASICS
The simple recipes in this section will go a long way toward providing a solid foundation of delightful flavors for your Filipino meals. The savory stocks create the base essence for a variety of soup and noodle dishes, providing the richness of shrimp or chicken to whatever recipe they are stirred into. And because no Filipino meal is complete without a table-side selection of sawsawan (the Pinoy term for dipping sauces), the variety of condiments, sauces, and dips described here will taste worlds better than any of the relatively expensive commercially prepared offerings that you could purchase in an Asian market. Everything, from basic sauces of soy and citrus, to homemade banana ketchup, annatto oil, pickles, and mayonnaise, will enable you and your family to further customize and tinker with the already flavorful Filipino dishes you bring to the table.
SPICY PICKLED PEPPERS SUKANG SILI
Pickled Thai chili peppers are a common Filipino condiment. The very spicy preserved peppers can be eaten whole, but they are usually chopped and served with the spicy vinegar in which they were steeped. This fiery chili vinegar is commonly known as sukang sili, and it is usually paired with fried or grilled foods.
This recipe is for use in a 16-oz (500-ml) glass jar. If using a larger container, or if you simply want to double the recipe, first place the chili peppers into the empty container, pour in enough water to cover, and then pour this water out into a measuring cup. The amount of water in the measuring cup will be the amount of vinegar you need to pickle the peppers. For each cup of vinegar, I like to add 2 teaspoons of salt and 2 teaspoons of sugar, but you can adjust this to your own tastes. Feel free to use any type of chili pepper in this recipe, adjusting the size of your jar or container accordingly.
Makes 16 oz (500 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
¼ lb (100 g) Thai chili peppers, washed and stems trimmed
1 cup (250 ml) white Filipino cane vinegar, or white distilled vinegar, plus more if needed
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons sugar, plus more if needed
2 teaspoons salt, plus more if needed
Pierce each pepper with a paring knife—this will allow the vinegar to seep into the chili peppers more quickly. Place the chili peppers into a clean glass pint jar, or other nonreactive container with an airtight lid.
Combine the rest of the ingredients in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, and then cover and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Remove the pickling liquid from the heat and pour it over the chili peppers in the jar. Screw the lid onto the jar and cool to room temperature. Once cool, store the chili peppers in the refrigerator.
As the chili peppers settle and absorb the vinegar, you may find that there is additional space in the jar. If this is the case, you can add more fresh vinegar to the jar to top it off. Store the jar in the refrigerator for at least a few days before using. The chili peppers will keep in the refrigerator for at least 3 weeks.
COOK’S NOTE: Besides using these pickled peppers and spicy vinegar as a condiment, try using them in my Bloody Mario cocktail (page 119).
SHRIMP STOCK
Asians have long known that an amazing amount of flavor can be found in the heads and shells of shrimp. Filipinos in particular love cooking head-on, shell-on shrimp and then gleefully sucking the juices from the shrimp head. So it’s a shame that such flavorful fodder often goes unused. My grandmother makes her shrimp stock by pounding the heads and shells in a bowl with a spoon and then mixing the extracted “juice” with some water. But I find my mother’s method of blitzing everything in a blender much easier. Although peeling and deveining shrimp can be tedious, it’s worth it considering that a good amount of rich stock can be made from a small of amount of shrimp heads and shells.
Makes about 8 cups (about 1.75 liters)
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 30 minutes
1 lb (500 g) raw, head-on, shell-on, medium shrimp
3 cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a knife and peeled
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
8 cups (1.75 liters) water
Peel and devein the shrimp, adding the shrimp heads and shells to a large pot and reserving the peeled shrimp for another use.
Place the garlic, bay leaves and peppercorns into the center of a square of cheesecloth. Gather the edges of the cheesecloth together to form a bundle, and then tie it closed with kitchen string.
Add the cheesecloth bundle to the pot with the shrimp heads and shells, and then add the water. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then cover the pot and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes. Skim off and discard any foam that rises to the top with a spoon or ladle.
Remove and discard the cheesecloth bundle from the pot. Working in batches, blend the shrimp heads and shells, along with the liquid from the pot, in a blender. Blend until the shrimp heads and shells are completely puréed, making sure you use all the liquid from the pot.
Pour the stock through a fine mesh strainer and into a large bowl. Push on the solids in the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the remaining solids in the strainer.
Allow the stock to cool completely before storing in the refrigerator for 2–3 days, or in the freezer for up to a month.
COOK’S NOTE: You can substitute the shrimp shells and heads with 1 lb (500 g) of crab or lobster shells, or even fish heads and bones, to instead make a seafood stock. Just simmer the shells or bones with water as directed above, and then strain the stock after 30 minutes.
Do not attempt to blend crab or lobster shells, or fish heads or bones, in your blender.
CHICKEN STOCK
Believe it or not, I find solace in making chicken stock. It’s true. Maybe it’s from the aroma of chicken soup that fills the house, or perhaps it’s in knowing that the flavorful stock will be used to enrich so many other recipes down the road. Whatever it is, making chicken stock is one of my favorite things to do in the kitchen. I tend to stockpile a variety of raw chicken parts in my freezer for use in chicken stock—these parts are usually the backs and necks left from whole chickens I’ve previously processed. But if you are not of the chicken-bone-stashing ilk, I’ve found that more and more grocery stores are beginning to sell chicken backs, necks, and feet for those of us who love to make chicken stock on a whim. And if your store doesn’t sell these parts separately, you can always purchase chicken wings on the cheap whenever you’d like to make stock.
Makes about 8 cups (about 1.75 liters)
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 4 hours
2 lbs (1 kg) chicken bones and parts, such as wings, backs, feet, necks, etc.
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 stalk lemongrass, bottom 4–6 in (10–15 cm) trimmed and halved lengthwise
One 2-in (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed with the side of a knife
8 cups (1.75 liters) water, plus more to cover as needed
Place the chicken bones in a large deep pot or Dutch oven. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bones by at least 1 in (2.5 cm), and then bring to a boil over high heat. Boil the chicken bones for 5 minutes, and then remove from the heat and pour the bones and water through a large colander set inside a sink. Rinse off the bones with cold running water, and rinse the pot out as well to remove any residue that may have been left behind. This first step helps to ensure a clear stock by removing any impurities from the chicken bones.
Return the chicken bones to the pot, along with the bay leaves, black peppercorns, lemongrass and ginger. Pour in the water—enough to cover the bones by at least 1 in (2.5 cm). Bring the pot to a boil, and then cover and gently simmer over low heat for at least 4 hours, occasionally skimming and discarding any foam or fat that rises to the surface of the liquid.
Pour the contents of the pot through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl. Discard the solids in the sieve. Allow the stock to cool, and then store in containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.
COOK’S NOTE: This stock can be used in multiple recipes throughout this cookbook, such as Chicken and Rice Porridge (page 54), Filipino Chicken Noodle Soup (page 67), Shrimp and Pork with Homemade Pancit Noodles (page 58), and Stir-Fried Wheat Flour Noodles with Shrimp and Vegetables (page 61).
PICKLED GREEN PAPAYA ATCHARA
Atchara (also acharra, or atsara) is a pickled Filipino dish usually comprised of shredded green papaya and carrots, and served as a condiment. It’s similar in flavor to the pickled ginger served at sushi joints. As such, I think atchara makes for a great palate cleanser between bites and goes especially well with grilled meats. It’s even great on top of grilled burgers as a type of pickled slaw.
Makes about 1 quart (1 liter)
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes, plus time to cool
2 cups (500 ml) white Filipino cane vinegar, or white distilled vinegar
½ cup (90 g) brown sugar
1 tablespoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
One 1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups grated green papaya, about ¾ lb (350 g)
1 cup grated carrots, about ¼ lb (100 g)
1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, black pepper, ginger, and garlic in a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and stir until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Meanwhile, combine the papaya, carrot, onion, and red pepper flakes in a large bowl. Pour the warm pickling liquid over the vegetables and toss to combine.
Allow the mixture to come to room temperature, and then place in an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving. The atchara will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
PINEAPPLE SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE
This is one of my favorite condiments to prepare because it goes well with just about everything. In addition to the obvious pairing with fried lumpia, I also use this dipping sauce for fried chicken, grilled fish, French fries, and even eggs. With sweetness from pineapple juice, tartness from vinegar, spice from ginger and a little heat from dried red pepper flakes, you too will find yourself often reaching for this sauce.
Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
¾ cup (185 ml) fresh or canned pineapple juice
2 tablespoons white Filipino cane vinegar, or cider vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
One ½-in (1.25-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
Stir the cornstarch into the water and set aside. Combine the rest of the ingredients in a small saucepan over moderately high heat and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir the cornstarch slurry into the saucepan, decrease the heat to low and simmer until the sauce thickens, 3–5 minutes.
Remove the sauce from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature before serving. The sauce will continue to thicken a bit more as it cools.
Serve as a sauce for Mini Spring Rolls with Pork and Shrimp (page 32), Crunchy Crab Lumpia (page 37), Pork and Vegetable Lumpia (page 30), Filipino-Style Fried Chicken (page 98), or Filipino Scotch Eggs (page 111).
TOMATO RELISH WITH FISH SAUCE AND SHALLOTS KAMATIS, BAGOONG AT LASONA
Sweet, tangy, and savory, with a mild onion bite, this simple relish of chopped tomatoes and shallots dressed in fish sauce is the most commonly found condiment on my family’s dinner table. This condiment is so common in the Northern Philippines that it is usually referred to by its Ilocano initials of “KBL” (Kamatis, Bagoong, Lasona /Tomatoes, Fish Sauce, Shallots). Although the term “bagoong” usually only refers to fermented shrimp or fish paste, fish sauce is often used in KBL depending on the preference of the household. Any ripe chopped tomato works well in this recipe, but I love the look of cherry tomatoes cut into quarters.
Makes about 2 cups (500 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
½ lb (250 g) cherry tomatoes, quartered
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1–2 tablespoons fish sauce
Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and toss gently to combine. Serve KBL alongside Crunchy Pork Belly (page 89), grilled meats and fish, or over steamed white rice.
VARIATIONS: Substitute 1 tablespoon of fresh minced ginger for 1 tablespoon of the minced shallot.
Substitute minced red onion, or sliced green onion (scallion), for the shallot.
FLAKY PASTRY PIE CRUST
This is a simple and basic pastry crust that can be used in multiple recipes throughout this cookbook. You can prepare this dough up to a day in advance before rolling it out for use in other recipes in this book such as Bitter Melon and Bacon Quiche (page 44), Chicken Adobo Pot Pies (page 74), Egg and Vegetable Turnovers (page 34), and Mini Mango Turnovers (page 122). Alternatively, you can substitute store-bought pie crust or puff pastry for this recipe.
Yields one 9-in (23-cm) pie crust
Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes rest in the refrigerator
1¼ cups (175 g) all-purpose flour
¹/8 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small cubes
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
¼ cup (60 ml) ice water
In a large bowl, combine the flour and the salt. Using a pastry cutter, or your fingers, mix the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles pea-sized crumbs.
Add the vinegar and mix with your hands, or a rubber spatula, to incorporate. Add the water 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing until the dough just comes together to form a large ball and can hold its shape. You may not need to use all the water.
Alternatively, you can pulse the flour, salt and butter in a food processor until the mixture resembles pea-sized crumbs. Drizzle in the vinegar and pulse to combine, and then drizzle in the water, little by little, pulsing the food processor until the dough just comes together.
After the dough can hold its shape, form it into a thick disk and cover with plastic wrap. Place the dough in the refrigerator and let it rest for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.
HOMEMADE BANANA KETCHUP
A tomato shortage during World War II did not bode well for the Filipino’s love of American ketchup. Luckily, Filipino food technologist, Maria Y. Orosa, created a sweet facsimile of ketchup using the plentiful local bananas grown all over the Islands. Though naturally a brownish-blonde hue, the newly created banana ketchup was dyed a bright red to resemble the old standard. Filipinos quickly embraced the fruitier condiment and soon, banana ketchup became just as popular in the Philippines as tomato ketchup was in the United States.
Though banana ketchup (or banana sauce) can be easily found at Asian markets, you can just as easily make your own banana ketchup at home—without all the artificial colors and flavors.
The color in my homemade ketchup comes from Annatto Oil (page 26) and tomato paste, so the finished product is a subtle orange hue rather than the familiar crimson red of store-bought ketchup. Despite this difference in color, the tangy-sweet flavor of this homemade ketchup is worlds better than the bottled artificial stuff at the Asian market.
Use this ketchup as you would any store-bought ketchup (tomato or banana), but it’s especially good as a dip for Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries (page 38), atop Grilled Turkey Burgers (page 100), mixed into Filipino Spaghetti (page 64), or as a glaze for Filipino Meatloaf (page 83) and Grilled Lemongrass Chicken (page 84).
Makes about 1½ cups (375 ml)
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 45 minutes
2 tablespoons Annatto Oil (page 26), or regular vegetable oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 large ripe bananas, about ¾ lb (350 g) total, mashed
½ cup (125 ml) cider vinegar
¼ cup (65 ml) water
2 tablespoons brown sugar, plus more, to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¹/8 teaspoon ground clove
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 bay leaf
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, 5–7 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and stir to combine, cooking for 2–3 minutes until the tomato paste breaks down and melts into the onion and garlic.
Place the mashed banana into the pan and stir until they pick up a reddish-orange hue from the Annatto Oil (if using) and tomato paste. Pour in the vinegar and water, stirring to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
Add the brown sugar, black pepper, ground clove, salt, and soy sauce, and stir to combine. Drop the bay leaf into the pan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low and then simmer, partially covered, for 20–30 minutes. Remove from heat and discard the bay leaf.
Place the banana mixture into the carafe of a blender and purée until smooth. If the banana ketchup is too thick, it can be thinned out with additional water. Taste the ketchup for seasoning, and add more sugar if a sweeter ketchup is desired.
Store the banana ketchup in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2–3 weeks.
COOK’S NOTE: For a spicier version of this ketchup, add 1–2 chopped Thai chili peppers (or 1 small jalapeño chili pepper) and sauté along with the onion and garlic. Continue with the rest of the recipe as written.
HOMEMADE MAYONNAISE
Because store-bought mayo is often so inexpensive and widely available, preparing this recipe is something rarely considered by the home cook. It is often dismissed as a task not worth the bother. So why make your own mayonnaise?
Because this Homemade Mayonnaise tastes so much better than store-bought, and it’s surprisingly easy to make—that’s why. And once you’ve got that jar of Annatto Oil (page 26) staring back at you, you’re probably going to wonder how else you can use the amber oil. Well, when emulsified with an egg yolk, some salt, Filipino vinegar and citrus juice, that Annatto Oil can easily transform into the best, and most vibrantly colorful mayonnaise you’ve ever had.
Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)
Prep Time: 10 minutes
1 large egg yolk
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Filipino coconut vinegar, or white distilled vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh calamansi juice, or fresh lemon juice
¾ cup (185 ml) Annatto Oil (page 26), or regular vegetable oil
You can simply use a whisk to bring the mayonnaise together, but an electric hand mixer makes for quicker work—and is easier on your whisking arm.
Combine the yolk, salt, vinegar, and calamansi juice in a large bowl, and whisk until light and frothy. While whisking constantly, drizzle in a few drops of the oil to begin an emulsification. Drizzle in a few more drops of oil and continue to whisk vigorously until the mixture thickens a bit, 2–3 minutes.
Gradually add the remaining oil in a slow, thin stream, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and a mayonnaise is formed, about 3–5 minutes more. Cover the mayonnaise and store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
You can use this Homemade Mayonnaise as you would any other mayonnaise, and you can also use it in the Crunchy Crab Lumpia recipe (page 37), as well as in the Grilled Turkey Burger recipe (page 100).
COOK’S NOTES: To prevent your bowl from moving as you whisk, place a moist paper towel underneath the bowl.
To make an aioli, whisk in 1 minced garlic clove before adding the oil.
For a spicy mayonnaise, whisk in a few squirts of Sriracha hot sauce after the mayonnaise has formed.
ANNATTO OIL ACHUETE
With its subtle flavor and brilliant color, Annatto Oil is often used to lend a familiar orange hue to many Filipino dishes such as Braised Oxtail with Roasted Vegetables in Peanut Sauce (page 86), Shrimp and Pork with Homemade Pancit Noodles (page 58), and Grilled Lemongrass Chicken (page 84), just to name a few. But don’t limit its use to just Filipino recipes—use it as you would any other cooking oil. Annatto seeds can be found in Asian and Latin markets, and from online retailers.
Makes about 2 cups (500 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes, plus 1–2 hours to steep
2 cups (500 ml) canola oil
½ cup (100 g) annatto seeds
2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Combine all of the ingredients in a large saucepan over moderately high heat. Warm the oil until it just begins to bubble. Remove from heat and set aside to steep for 1–2 hours.
Strain the oil through a fine mesh strainer, discarding the solids in the strainer. Store the Annatto Oil in an airtight container for 3–4 weeks in the refrigerator.
SAUTÉED SHRIMP PASTE GINISANG BAGOONG
Fermented shrimp paste (bagoong) is made from tiny shrimp preserved in salt. On its own, bagoong is a very pungent condiment primarily used to add a savory and salty kick to many Filipino dishes. But, when sautéed with shallot and garlic, the harshness of the shrimp paste is softened a bit. Don’t get me wrong, the sautéed version is still plenty pungent and salty, but in a less bracing way, because it is cut with the sweetness of the shallot, garlic, and a bit of sugar. Fermented shrimp paste can be found in Asian markets labeled as “Bagoong Alamang.” I prefer bagoong that isn’t dyed bright pink, but the pink variety is fine to use too.
Makes ½ cup (250 g)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
1 tablespoon high-heat cooking oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1–2 Thai chili peppers, thinly sliced (optional)
½ cup (250 g) fermented shrimp paste (Bagoong Alamang)
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heat a large wok or sauté pan over high heat until a drop of water sizzles and evaporates on contact. Swirl in the oil and add the shallot, stir-frying until the shallot wilts and begins to lightly brown, 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and chili peppers (if using) and cook until the garlic just begins to brown, 1–2 minutes.
Stir in the shrimp paste, sugar and black pepper and toss and cook for 3–5 minutes more.
COOK’S NOTES: Serve Ginisang Bagoong with Braised Oxtail with Roasted Vegetables and Peanut Sauce (page 86). Just dab some of the sautéed shrimp paste onto each spoonful of stew and rice.
For a salty-sour Filipino snack, dip slices of fresh green mango into the sautéed shrimp paste.
GARLIC VINEGAR DIPPING SAUCE
I like to call this condiment “house lumpia sauce” as it is often used as a dipping sauce for fried lumpia in many Filipino households—though it is versatile enough to be used for more than just lumpia. With a vinegar tang and garlicky bite, this sauce is perfect for cutting through the richness of many fried and grilled foods.
You can choose any Filipino vinegar (page 19) for use in this sauce, as well as cider, rice wine, or white distilled vinegars.
Makes ½ cup (125 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
½ cup (125 ml) vinegar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
Heavy pinch of salt
Whisk together all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Serve as a dipping sauce for spring rolls, empanadas, or grilled meats.
SOY AND CITRUS DIPPING SAUCE TOYOMANSI
A mixture of soy sauce and citrus juice may sound simple enough, but these two ingredients enliven everything from grilled fish to noodles.
I like to use a 1 to 1 ratio of soy and citrus, but you can adjust the salty-sour balance to suit your own taste.
Makes ½ cup (125 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
¼ cup (65 ml) soy sauce
¼ cup (65 ml) fresh calamansi juice, or fresh lemon juice
Whisk together the soy sauce and citrus juice in a small bowl. Serve with grilled fish, pancit noodles, or fried foods.
SPICY LIME AND FISH SAUCE DIP
Similar to Soy and Citrus Dipping Sauce (below left), this sauce strikes a balance between salty and sour, but with a bit more depth of flavor from the fish sauce and the sliced chilies. Try it with seafood dishes.
Makes ½ cup (125 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
¼ cup (65 ml) fish sauce
¼ cup (65 ml) fresh calamansi juice, or fresh lime juice
2–3 Thai chili peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced
Whisk together all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Serve with grilled or fried fish and shellfish.
