Читать книгу Last Letters from Attu - Mary Breu - Страница 9

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To Alaska

Etta Jones stood on the deck of the ship, staring across the gray water of the Pacific. It was July 14, 1942. Years ago, she had seen that ocean with different eyes. Twenty years earlier, she and her sister Marie had embarked on the adventure of a lifetime, traveling to the Last Frontier. Impetuous Marie soon returned to the East Coast, but Etta fell in love with the untamed spirit of Alaska and a man named Foster Jones.

Etta felt her chest tighten and her breathing quicken as she again became aware of hostile voices prattling in the background. For a moment, she considered paying rapt attention to their conversation. Although she didn’t know their language, she might be able to pick up on something that would tell her where the ship was going.

A curly strand of gray hair worked itself loose from the unkempt bun at the back of her head and began lapping at the side of her face. With her hands folded in front of her, Etta maintained her rigid posture. She didn’t react to the hair that had begun to obscure her view. She never turned her head or acted as if she were aware of the activity behind her.

It didn’t matter where they were going because there would be nothing there for her—nothing but memories of the life she had before that unthinkable day. She feared that day would be the only thing she could think of for the rest of her life. She was too numb to be concerned with whether the rest of her life would last for a few days or a few years, and she couldn’t decide if she cared. The images in her head blurred as the cold mist blew across her face.

Etta was paralyzed by shock and grief, but self-pity was something she didn’t spend time on. She could honestly look back on her life knowing she had lived vigorously, taking nothing for granted. She envisioned that life through the eyes of the relatives to whom she had faithfully composed so many letters over the years. Etta and Foster had made their home in some of the most remote and sparsely populated villages in the world. Yet, her correspondence was the diary of a content woman who always seemed right at home.

Etta didn’t know if she would be allowed to write another letter. She knew her loved ones would worry about what had happened to her, but she couldn’t see herself writing again, no matter what. Letters were about living and loving and being in that place where you knew you were meant to be. For the first time, she felt lost, like she had woken up a million miles from nowhere. How could you write a letter from “nowhere?”

Her mind drifted back to the happiest of those days, but every comforting thought was interrupted by the violence of her last few days. The sounds of the Natives’ screams and the sight of human blood on the snow would haunt her for years to come. Etta was scared. Her world had changed. The whole world had changed.

The ship on which Etta stood was on course for Japan. As the sky grew darker, one of the grimy soldiers used the blunt end of his bayonet to prod her into a stifling cabin below deck. She curled up on the ragged cot that was suspended from the ceiling by two chains like a hammock. She knew she wouldn’t sleep, but if she closed her eyes and concentrated on the motion of the water, she might be able to find rest in the memory of the last time she took a long voyage to an unfamiliar shore.

After high school graduation, Etta Schureman successfully completed course work at Connecticut State Normal College in New Britain, Connecticut, then taught in the primary grades for five years. While teaching, she became interested in the nursing field, so she enrolled in and graduated from the Pennsylvania Hospital Training School in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. She had applied her nurse’s training and been involved with industrial social work for fourteen years when Marie talked to her about going to Alaska.

Always adventurous, in 1922, Etta’s sister Marie had already lived in the West as well as on the East Coast, something that was rare for a single woman in the 1920s. Her teaching certificate had been the ticket she needed to get to Montana, some two thousand miles from her hometown of Vineland, New Jersey. Now in Yonkers, New York, she had a comfortable position and she enjoyed her students and colleagues, but she was thirty-nine years old and still single.

Some of Marie’s friends spoke to her about teaching in Alaska, and she began to think that it sounded like the perfect place for her next escapade. Alaska naturally appealed to her when she conjured up images of all that she had heard about that enchanting place: rugged beauty, thick forests, Northern lights, abundant wildlife, the highest mountains in North America, three thousand rivers, more than a hundred thousand glaciers, and three million lakes. She knew that it was larger than California, Texas, and Montana combined and had more wilderness acreage than the entire Lower 48 states. Marie was looking at what would be her greatest challenge yet—simply to survive in Alaska. This time, she would opt for the ultimate adventure.

Social standards as well as family concerns dictated that she shouldn’t make a four thousand-mile trip from the East Coast to Alaska without a companion. She had the perfect person in mind, her forty-two-year-old sister, Etta, who was also single. In spite of their conventional beginnings, these two free spirits had turned their backs on the traditional roles of women. Instead of marrying and raising families, they were both driven by their careers. Perhaps they had inherited this determined independence from their father, Abram, who, at fourteen, had lied about his age so he could fight for the Union in the Civil War.

Etta had a lot to consider when trying to make her decision. She’d been working in metropolitan Pittsburgh. If Alaska’s entire population of fifty-five thousand were equally distributed in the vast territory, each person would occupy more than a square mile. The city of Pittsburgh had a population of five hundred thousand. What did Alaska have to offer besides spectacular scenery? Pittsburgh was rich in art and culture, and it offered diverse educational opportunities, museums, libraries, shopping, and restaurants. Should she trade this progressive, cosmopolitan city for a beautiful but boring pile of snow? Would she be happy being far from her family and everything that was familiar? Who knew what could happen to two single women thousands of miles away from home?

Etta Eugenie Schureman, Pennsylvania Hospital Training School for Nurses, Philadelphia, 1908.

Finally, Etta decided that, yes, she could leave the city and take a much-needed vacation, but it would be for one year only. She told Marie that at the end of the year, regardless of what happened, Etta was going to leave Alaska and return to the East Coast.

In the spring of 1922, Etta and Marie, known to the family as Tetts and Dump, sat their elderly parents down to give them the news. Etta was the second oldest of the four children, born after another sister, Ellen (known as Nan). When her younger brother, Russ, was born, he found it difficult to pronounce Etta’s name, so he called her “Tetts,” and the name stuck. Their father nicknamed Marie, the baby of the family, his “Apple Dumpling.” Her name was shortened to “Dump,” and this was what the family called her from then on.

The sisters announced their plans to travel to a land they had only read about in books. They thought they had enough information to reassure their parents, but Esther and Abram fired off a series of questions that made it sound as if Etta and Marie had not done their homework at all. Did they have enough money to finance their adventure? How much did they need and how could they get more in case of an emergency? How long would it take them to get there? Would they go directly to Alaska, or travel at a leisurely pace, stopping at landmarks and national parks? What would they do when they got there? They felt confident that with their teaching backgrounds, they would have no problem gaining employment in schools. Yes, they were facing more unknowns than guarantees, but Marie and Etta convinced their parents that they were determined to have their adventure.

Left: (Left to right) The Schureman sisters, Ellen (Nan) Schureman Smith, Etta Schureman, and Marie Schureman, Montague, Michigan, 1922. Right: Etta Schureman and her niece, Elinor Smith, on a boat on Lake Michigan, 1922.

Saying good-bye, they boarded a train and headed west. Their first stop was in Montague, Michigan, where they visited their older sister Nan, Nan’s husband Dr. George Smith, and their daughter Elinor.

Proceeding west, Etta and Marie stopped at Glacier National Park in northwestern Montana. The million-acre park boasted turquoise-blue lakes, clear mountain streams, steep snowcapped peaks, and lush forests with trees so tall they seemed to hide the sky. This incredible landscape was home to more than 350 species of fish and wildlife including wolves, grizzly bears, and elk. They rented a cabin for a month and enjoyed the most spectacular scenery they had ever seen. At the end of the month, they reluctantly left this wonderland behind and, boarding another train, headed for Seattle, where they booked passage on a steamship bound for Juneau, Alaska.

Top: Marie Schureman on the porch of the cabin Etta and Marie rented at Glacier National Park, Montana, 1922.

THE BOAT WAS CROWDED, the pier teeming with families and friends bidding farewell to departing passengers. Amid cheers and last-minute messages, while colored paper streamers fluttered, the ship slowly pulled away from the dock as we looked rather forlornly at each other. In all that throng, there was not a soul we knew. But what did it matter? We were adventure bound. It was thrilling!

At that time, the main business of steamship companies was to get supplies to and from salmon canneries. Passengers were of secondary consideration. Ships were tied to cannery docks whole days at a time while loading and unloading went on. Passengers amused themselves as best they could. There were such interesting fellow passengers. They enchanted us with their tales, all having something interesting to relate.

Teachers were returning to isolated schools among the Indians and Eskimos, traders from the Arctic, mining men from the Interior thrilling us with tales of gold and silver, tales of a fabulous mountain of jade known only to the Indians. There were missionaries on board—charming people, going to their lonely posts, some for the first time, some returning after a leave of absence. Salesmen who represented wholesale houses were on board. One man’s story has always stayed with me. He told how the crystal clarity of the air could deceive as to distance: how on one occasion, when he was camped within sight of a mountain, he was astonished upon rising the next morning to find the mountain had moved twenty miles nearer while he slept.

After a few days, we reached Juneau, the capital of the territory. Our eyes popped at the beauty of the setting—high mountains rising almost from the water’s edge, the town built on a narrow strip of land at the foot of the mountain and sprawling partway up its sides, facing calm, deep-shadowed Lynn Canal. Even a month at Glacier National Park had not prepared us for this. Here we disembarked to seek our fortune, or, Marie’s job. We hired a taxi to take us to the one hotel in town, the Gastineau. After riding about two blocks over a plank street with plank sidewalks, we found ourselves at the hotel, gasping at the taxi charges—one dollar each. A dollar for two blocks! That did not seem exorbitant later when we became accustomed to Alaska prices. We learned to disregard pennies; they were not used except in the post.

Juneau, Alaska, 1922.

office. Neither were nickels, and in many places in the Interior, a dime was disdained. The smallest acceptable coin was a quarter. Paper dollars were scarce. Big silver dollars were in common use.

Etta and Marie’s experiences in the educational system had been in metropolitan school districts. They had no knowledge of schools in Alaska.

It wasn’t until 1884 that John H. Kinkead, the first governor of the new Alaska territory, decided to address the absence of official educational opportunities in the region. Organizing a public school system in such an immense, ungoverned territory was a daunting task. In response to Kinkead’s report to Washington, D.C., Sheldon Jackson, a Presbyterian missionary in Alaska who was an advocate for education, was selected to “appoint teachers, prescribe their duties, fix salaries, and make rules and regulations for the operation and administration of schools.”

In a controversial move, Jackson used government funds to contract with already established Presbyterian mission schools and to encourage other Protestant denominations to open schools. The territory schools used mission school buildings, and the teachers were paid with federal subsidies, and by 1887, a school system of sorts was in place. Reflecting the population, these schools were mainly attended by Native children. However, in 1894, separation of church and state was enforced, and government contracts with church-sponsored schools were withdrawn.

The Civil Act of 1900 stated that proper provisions would be made for compulsory attendance of school-age children, regardless of race, until a permanent law was in place.

In 1903, Senator Knute Nelson of Minnesota visited the territory of Alaska and observed what he felt was a need to separate Native students from the whites. A law, bearing his name, was passed by Congress in 1905, stipulating: “Schools … shall be devoted to the education of white children and the children of mixed blood who lead a civilized life. The education of Eskimos and Indians shall remain under the direction and control of the Secretary of the Interior … and shall be provided for by an annual appropriation.” Segregated schools for Natives in Alaska, and elsewhere in the United States, became law.

Curriculum in the white schools was standard: in the primary grades, students received schooling in reading, spelling, addition, subtraction, multiplication, geography, and codes of conduct, while in the fourth and fifth grades, they learned history, nature studies, and more challenging language arts and higher-level math.

IN THE OFFICE OF THE COMMISSIONER of Education for white children of Alaska, we found a very charming young lady who told us a telegram had just come in asking for a teacher at Tanana, and she showed us on the map the spot where the Tanana River joined the Yukon just south of the Arctic Circle. We decided that Tanana would be our new home.

In a few days, we boarded another ship for Seward. On this boat, we met a group of Shriners on one of their annual trips from Seattle to Alaska, bound for lodge work and fun in the northern cities. There was also on that boat a little bride, Mrs. Morgan, who was going to join her young sergeant husband at Fort Gibbon, in Tanana.

At Seward, we transferred to a train with a sleeper. At that time, the train went right through to Fairbanks, a distance of several hundred miles, traveling through the night. Old Alaskans said if people knew the dangers of the railroad they would not sleep on the trip. In our case, ignorance was bliss because we slept soundly.

Train at Curry Hotel, Curry, Alaska, located halfway between Anchorage and Fairbanks. Both the train and hotel were owned and operated by the Alaska Railroad. Etta and Marie rode this train from Seward to Nenana, 1922.

ALASKA’S DIGITAL ARCHIVES, ASL-P44-06-080.

We were glad to leave the train at Nenana, where we were to take a boat on the Tanana River to Tanana. Making diligent inquiries we found there was no regular passenger boat, but a trading company was sending a boat with supplies in a few days. The boatman said, “Sure we’ll take you. Don’t know when we’ll leave, whenever we get loaded. Just keep in touch with us and be ready when we are.” Of course, we haunted the riverfront and the vicinity of this boat in particular. People laughed when we tried to find out the hour and minute of departure. “Oh, you will get used to Alaska ways. It isn’t a question of hour and minute; it isn’t even a question of what day. Just take it easy.”

Eventually things were ready, and we found ourselves in a flat-bottomed riverboat propelled by a gasoline motor. Six army cots were arranged neatly in the open space of the boat, while crates and boxes of foodstuffs and sacks of mail and freight were stacked around the edges, a small cook stove near the center. The six cots were for the women passengers because we were to spend at least one night on board. The other women were three missionaries and the little bride, Mrs. Morgan. The boat also carried six or eight male passengers who slept on the mail sacks.

The weather was ideal—beautiful, calm, warm, lazy days—and as we basked luxuriously on the tiny deck in the brilliant, soothing sunshine, we learned more about Alaskans, because besides ourselves, the young bride was the only “cheechako,” or newcomer, on board. Old sourdoughs take pleasure in telling their tales to such as we. Everything was so new, so thrilling, we gulped it down and asked for more.

One man had been an undertaker in Juneau following the Princess Sophia disaster [October 25, 1918], the Canadian liner that had been wrecked on the rocks near Juneau with a total loss of all on board. This man had taken care of most of the recovered bodies, and had been so sickened with his calling that he had given it up and was then on his way to Nome to take up some other business. There were miners aboard from the Chandalar [mining] district who needed a cook, and they offered me the job. The scenery was not so stupendous as the coastal area, but it was wild, and at the same time peaceful. Occasionally a woodcutter’s cabin was passed or a fish camp of tents, salmon drying in the sun and noisy malamute dogs tied to stakes for the summer. One of the missionaries was elected cook on the boat, and from the plentiful stores provided, she prepared us a meal fit for a king. I don’t remember just what we ate then, but I do remember the next morning breaking eggs into a bowl for the omelet, passing the thirty mark, and feeling stumped at frying enough bacon for so many on the tiny stove. Then the pilot came along and solved the difficulty by filling a dripping pan with sliced bacon and popping the whole thing in the oven with a scornful toss of the head in our direction and a curt, “That’s the best way to cook bacon.” It came out beautifully crisp and brown, and right then and there I learned a cooking lesson that I put to good use many times afterward. It was my first experience with Sourdoughs as cooks, and I can say with conviction, they are all good cooks.

The gas boat Tanana, which Etta and Marie took from Nenana to Tanana, down the Tanana River, August 1922, on the final leg of their journey.

Athabascan fish camp on the Tanana River, 1922.

ALASKA’S DIGITAL ARCHIVES, UAF-1985-72-142.

Although there had been a significant white population when mines were operating in the Tanana Valley during and after the gold rush of 1902, by 1922 most of the whites were gone, and the valley and the village of Tanana were once again predominantly Athabascan. Elected tribal chiefs established and enforced policies for the Natives. Traditional laws had been passed down for generations. Their spiritual beliefs, community customs, and verbal repetitions of legends, ceremonies, and survival skills were largely centered on the use of land and water resources that provided food, clothing, shelter, even transportation—boats and dogsleds. They only took what they would use. There was no waste. The resources were shared among all the villagers.

Athabascan woman in winter parka, Tanana, 1922.

Potlatches were an important part of Athabascan social life. These were held for various occasions—weddings, naming of children, payment of debt, funerals. Outlying villagers would stay in the host villagers’ homes for several days, feasting, dancing, and exchanging gifts.

Etta and Marie were accustomed to a cash-based economy and easy access to grocery stores, department stores, banks, restaurants, and motorized transportation. The sisters had experienced cold winters and warm summers, and felt sure they were prepared for Alaska’s weather. In spite of the differences between Native Alaska culture and the life they had known on the East Coast, Etta and Marie wanted to experience all that Tanana had to offer, including the extreme temperatures that were said to go from forty to sixty degrees below zero in the winter and up to three digits in the summer.

Tanana Chiefs, circa 1920.

ALASKA’S DIGITAL ARCHIVES, ASA-P277-044-022.