Читать книгу May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 years of tips and tricks - May Martin - Страница 23

My students frequently ask my advice when it comes to selecting fabric for a dressmaking project, so here are a few pointers to help you make your choice.

First purchase your pattern and look at the back of the envelope for fabric recommendations and quantities. Decide whether your garment is going to be worn in the winter or the summer – this will determine the weight of the fabric and the sort of colours to go for.

Fabrics are usually grouped in weights: lighter-weight cottons and silks and heavier-weight woollens. Information about the fabric is usually given on the end of the roll: the fabric type, width and content (the proportion of natural and synthetic fibres), along with care instructions. If you are making clothes for small children or are in constant contact with small children and their sticky fingers, it’s best to go for a washable fabric – you don’t want a huge dry-cleaning bill!

When you’re shopping for fabric, apart from your paper pattern and what’s written on the end of the roll, it’s your eyes and hands that are your best tools. Cast your eyes along the shelves, homing in on colours or patterns that appeal. Now use your hands – this is where you will gain the most information about a piece of cloth. These are the important factors to bear in mind:

Comfort: Feel the cloth: is it rough to the touch? If so, it may benefit from a lining so that it does not scratch your skin.

Modesty: When you hold the fabric up, can you see the outline of your hand through it? If so, other people will be able to see your silhouette through the fabric when you stand against the light! You will either need to line the sections of your garment before sewing them together or drop in a loose lining.

Creasability: Take a small amount of the cloth in your hand and squeeze it gently. How well does it bounce back? If it retains a crease when you crush it with your fingers, it will crease when you wear it.

Stability: Is the end of the fabric on the roll unravelling? If so, the cloth will fray like fury and may be tricky to handle.

Mobility: Does the fabric move about if you drape a couple of metres over your arm? This could be a good thing if your pattern requires drape in the design. It could be a nightmare if the fabric is so mobile that it stretches in every direction!