Читать книгу May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 years of tips and tricks - May Martin - Страница 38

A paper pattern is like a jigsaw puzzle. All the pieces will fit together beautifully to produce a wonderful end result, but to achieve this you need to lay each piece out in the optimum way, laying them along the grain line of the fabric as instructed and using them to cut out your fabric carefully and accurately. Some of the markings you’ll find on your pattern pieces are shown opposite. It’s important to understand them before you start cutting out., so read the explanation of each marking. Older paper patterns may have perforations to mark details. Modern patterns tend to have the markings printed on.

Lay to the fold: When a pattern piece has one of these markings on the edge, that edge should be placed on a folded edge of fabric. This is usually created by folding the fabric in half lengthways so that the selvedges meet.

Straight of grain: This line should lie along the grain line of the fabric (see here). Usually the grain line of the pattern piece is positioned parallel to the selvedge, with each pointed end of the line the same distance from the selvedge.

Fitting line or seam allowance: This line is usually situated 1.5cm (⅝in) from the edge of the pattern. It indicates where the seam is to be sewn and hence where you join your fabric pieces together.

Notches or balance marks: These help you to position one piece of fabric at exactly the right point on another. They are single, double or triple. Cut out double or triple notches as a single unit and always cut notches outwards, never inwards, or you will lose some of your seam allowance.

Darts: These are the marks on the pattern piece indicating where a dart is positioned; they need to be marked with tailor's tacks.

Centre line or fold lines: These are the lines on the garment where the centre front aligns with another part of the garment. I often put a tiny clip at either end of the line.

Pleats: These are markings indicating where pleats should be made; they need to be marked with tailor's tacks.

Button and buttonhole positions: These mark where to sew a button or make a buttonhole.

Bust, waist or hip line: This mark indicates the position of the bust, waist or hips on a garment.