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Choosing a Pattern for your Dressmaking Project

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When I first started sewing, I loved popping into my local fabric shop to perch on a stool at what was called the ‘pattern bar’ and flick through the pages of various catalogues. It was wonderful to look through the many styles on offer and make my choice. Today I tend to use the internet and a site specialising in paper patterns. Seated by my computer, instead of a pattern bar, I explore the many pages of patterns on view before making my choice. My students often ask me how to choose their first project. Build your skills gradually, is what I advise them, and choose one within your capabilities. Dressmaking takes you on a voyage of discovery and there are many techniques to learn. I am there in the class to guide my students and help them on their journey. Here are a few pointers that I would give anyone just beginning:

1. Choose a simple style: the simpler the style, the quicker you will construct and finish the project.

2. Look for a pattern described by the manufacturer as easy.

3. Look at the line drawing of the design on the back of the pattern. A very basic indication of the degree of difficulty is the number of lines or details on the style diagram. The more lines on the drawing, the greater the number of pieces and therefore construction details.

4. For your first project, pick a style with just a few design features or lines on the drawing of the garment. The Pencil Skirt is a simple yet stylish design that would made a good first project. It has a front piece, two back pieces and a waistband. You will learn how to make darts, construct and neaten seams, how to put in a zip, attach a waistband and finish a hem. An excellent place to start.

May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 years of tips and tricks

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