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Copra and RBD (refined, bleached and deodorized) coconut oil are the soap maker’s staple, creating a hard bar soap with a rich foam. Used alone it can be drying so should be combined with other oils. A soap made from 100 per cent coconut oil will foam in salt water. The rarer virgin coconut oil is high in saturated fatty acids and acts as a good moisturizer and thickener in creams.

INCI: Cocos nucifera

Lauric: 39–54%

Myristic: 15–23%

Palmitic: 6–11%

Oleic: 4–11%

Stearic: 1–4%

Linoleic: 1–2%

Iodine: < 10

COMFREY OIL

Macerated in sunflower or olive oil, comfrey contains allantoin, a cell-proliferant that helps repair damaged tissue.

INCI: Symphytum officianale

The fatty acid profile for comfrey oil depends on the base oil it is macerated in. Clarify this with your supplier.

EMU OIL

This is an anti-inflammatory oil popular with Australian and South African soap makers, and is becoming more so in the US. Whilst I personally can’t bring myself to try soap made from emus, reports are that it adds greatly to the moisturizing qualities of bar soap.

INCI: Emu oil

Linoleic: 14%

Myristic: 0.4%

Oleic: 50%

Palmitic: 21%

Stearic: 9%

Iodine: 75

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL

High in gamma linolenic acid, excellent in creams and lotions for mature skin.

INCI: Oenothera biennis

Palmitic: 5.5–7%

Oleic: 5–11%

Stearic: 1.5–2.5%

Linoleic: 70–77%

Iodine 135–165

GRAPE SEED OIL

A light base oil that is easily absorbed by the skin, firms up and regenerates. Rich in vitamins and minerals.

INCI: Vitis vinifera

Linoleic: 58–78%

Oleic: 12–28%

Palmitic: 5–11%

Stearic: 3–6%

Iodine: 125–142

HEMP SEED OIL *

High percentage of essential fatty acids and vitamins, moisturizing and helps to balance dry skin. Makes a gorgeous soap but used on its own has a short shelf life.

INCI: Cannabis sativa

Oleic: 12%

Linoleic: 57%

Palmitic: 6%

Stearic: 2%

Linolenic: 21%

Iodine: 166.5

JOJOBA OIL

Actually a wax, not an oil, jojoba easily penetrates the skin and provides a protective barrier. Adds thickness to creams and is very conditioning when used in hair products.

INCI: simmondsia chinensis

Oleic: 10–13%

Iodine: 80–85