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Sales of natural and pseudo-natural soaps and cosmetics are rising year on year. There are several sound reasons for this, the first being that we live in a world where our tolerance to chemical household products is diminishing and there is a sharp increase in the number of people suffering from skin allergies. The second reason is that any right thinking person wants to do their bit for the environment and to leave a sustainable world behind them for future generations to enjoy. The third reason is a growing awareness that fair trade sales of natural botanical products help to create and sustain agricultural industries so alleviating poverty in under developed countries. What a wonderful product we have here!

In order to meet the growing demand for natural products many manufacturers choose to express ‘naturalness’ in their brand names and include minute amounts of botanical oils. The way to beat this trend is to read the label on the package and to be aware of certain ingredients that are widely in use but are in fact proven to be skin irritants, or even worse are carcinogenic. That said, I do not support the argument that ‘natural’ is, without exception ‘good’ – we need to make informed decisions on what we buy. Remember that arsenic (as an extreme example) is 100 per cent natural!

If you suffer from eczema or very sensitive skin you should not use products that contain any colourings or fragrance – natural or unnatural – as these are the biggest contributors to skin irritation. Some essential oils (such as Roman camomile) will help mildly sensitive skin and are safe to use in baby products, but only in very tiny quantities. Some soapmakers, aware that ‘no smell means no sell’, bombard their products with large quantities of essential oils and whilst the soap may smell divine, doing so is downright dangerous. In the EU, cosmetic legislation dictates that a maximum of 2 per cent essential oils can legally be used in soap products but 1 to 1.5 per cent is in fact a much safer amount to aim for.

When reading the labels on your shop bought soaps and cosmetics, be aware of the following:

Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)

This is a detergent derived from coconut oil and is widely used in shampoos. It contains endocrine disruptors and estrogen mimics and it can damage the skin barrier functions, which will increase the allergic response to other toxins and allergens.

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES )

Found in shampoo, toothpaste, bubble bath, body wash and soap, this is another known endocrine disruptor and estrogen mimic and it is also carcinogenic. It allows other chemicals to penetrate skin more deeply and enter the bloodstream.

Mineral oil and petroleum jelly

These petroleum-based ingredients block pores, act as barriers and suppress normal skin functions.

Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben)

Used to preserve cosmetic products, there is a growing public awareness about the dangers of using parabens and they have been linked to breast cancer. The counter argument is that parabens aren’t dangerous at very low levels and they are stable preservatives, protecting products against far more dangerous viruses and villains. On the market are a number of safer preservatives that can be used in your natural products but to date, despite the regular industry proclamations of the discovery of a wholly natural preservative (such as gse, roe and citricidal), none of these products will pass a challenge test.

Borax (sodium borate)

Widely used in the US to stabilise and thicken liquid soap, the use of Borax is restricted under EU cosmetic legislation as it is a strong irritant. In particular it can cause severe rashes in babies and young children.

DEA (diethanolamine, cocamide DEA, oleamide DEA and lauramide DEA)

These ingredients are used to increase lather in industrially-produced soap and have been known to react with other ingredients to create a carcinogenic that can easily be absorbed by the skin.

Even when using entirely natural oils it is important that you establish where they were grown, and for ecological reasons avoid anything produced in an unsustainable environment. Palm oil is a particular case in question. Used in 1 out of every 10 products on the supermarket shelves and also widely used in bio-fuel, the rush to create palm plantations, particularly in the tropical rainforests of Malaysia and Indonesia, has led to the destruction of forests that support endangered wildlife, particularly tree-dwelling primates. Palm oil is traditionally a soap-making staple and you can buy it from sustainable sources – just make sure you ask your potential supplier the right questions.

FATTY ACID	PROPERTIES IT LENDS TO SOAP
LAURIC ACID	Hard bar, cleansing, fluffy lather, fast trace
LINOLEIC ACID	Conditioning
MYRISTIC ACID	Hard bar, cleansing, fluffy lather
OLEIC ACID	Conditioning
PALMITIC ACID	Hard bar, stable lather
RICINOLEIC ACID	Conditioning, fluffy stable lather
STEARIC ACID	Hard bar, stable lather