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One of the most important elements of your soap is fragrance. Those of us who want our products to be totally natural opt for essential oils diffused or pressed from plants or citrus fruits, used both for their fragrance and for their therapeutic value. The second option is synthetic fragrance oils. These can imitate scents that would be too expensive to achieve naturally (such as rose), and they can also mimic fruit and even lemon meringue pie if that is the perfume you are trying to achieve. Whatever your preference, the one important fact you need to bear in mind if you are planning on marketing your soap is ‘no smell, no sell’.

In mass produced soap, fragrance is added well after the chemical reaction is complete and it is therefore stable and strong in the soap. In cold processed soap making we add the fragrance while the chemical reaction is going on and therefore we have to be careful that the blend of oils we choose will withstand this saponification process. The extensive art of aromatherapy would fill this book all on its own but basically, essential oils are split into three categories or ‘notes’, being top, middle and base notes. A ‘top note’ fragrance is the first to reach your nose but can be fleeting, a ‘middle note’ is the core of the fragrance blend whilst a ‘base note’ anchors the blend and gives it a sensuous undertone. When composing a blend for a cold process soap it helps considerably if you use a combination of the three notes, or at very least include a base note oil.

Another useful trick is to add your essential oil to dry matter before you put it in your soap. If you plan to put herbs, petals or clays in your soap pour the essential oils over them first – this process helps to suspend the fragrance in the soap mix and increases its holding power. When working with liquid soap you don’t have this problem as the saponification is complete before you add the fragrance.

When buying essential oils always go to a reputable supplier and ensure that the oils are 100 per cent pure. This does not mean you have to use the most expensive varieties, but do check that oils do not contain dilutants as these may interfere with the saponification process and cause your soap mixture to seize. Likewise, when using artificial fragrances only buy from a supplier who understands cold process soap making and make sure the fragrances are of a cosmetic grade and not just produced for fragrancing a room or for candle making.

If you are making toiletries for yourself, perhaps because you have allergies or sensitive skin, you must bear in mind that both natural and unnatural fragrances can be very high in allergens and these, along with pigments, are the biggest cause of skin irritation. In Europe, by law your fragrance content must not be more than 2 per cent of your total soap formula, and this is for good reason. Essential oils are extremely concentrated and powerful and whilst when used with knowledge and care they are undoubtedly beneficial to the skin, if you use them heavily just to increase fragrance they can be dangerous. EU cosmetic legislation now also requires you to list on your product labels some specific allergens that occur naturally within many essential oils.

When making creams and lotions you can create a light scent by replacing the water content with a flower water or hydrosol (see page 125). Because only a tiny amount of essential oil is needed to fragrance a cream, you can also use some of the precious essential oils such as neroli or Roman camomile, both of which are reasonably safe for those prone to eczema or dermatitis. Below are some of the more popular essential oils and their properties. You will also find a chart on pages 110–111 that will help you choose fragrances for specific skin types.

CAMOMILE (Roman) (Athemis nobilis) Top note

Distilled from the flowers and leaves, a great choice for those with sensitive skin, including babies.

CARDOMOM (Elletaria cardamomum) Top note

Extracted from the plant seed this pungent and spicy oil works well with blends of cinnamon, orange and frankincense. Irritant so use only in very small quantities.

CEDARWOOD ATLAS (Cedrus atlantica) Base note

Distilled from the wood this refreshing, clean fragrance is great for masculine toiletries and holds up well in cold process soap.

CINNAMON LEAF (Cinnamomum verum J.) Middle note

Not to be confused with cinnamon bark oil (which should not be used), cinnamon leaf oil is fine in small quantities and blends beautifully with ginger and orange.

CLOVE (Eugenia caryophyllata – bud) Base/middle note

Useful boost for spicy blends but should be used in tiny quantities as it is high in allergens. Should not be used during pregnancy. Accelerates trace in soaps.

EUCALYPTUS (Eucalyptus globulus) Top note

Powerful clean scent, good for blending with citrus fragrances, antifungal and antiseptic.

FRANKINCENSE (Boswellia carterii) Base note

Distilled gum resin and precious oil with a deep, spicy, sweet fragrance. Blend with lavender and neroli for a real treat.

GERANIUM (Pelargonium graveolens) Middle note

The Egyptian variety is reasonably priced and holds well in soap. This is the closest you will get to a rose scent without breaking the bank. Delicious heady, floral fragrance.

GINGER (Zingiber officinale) Middle note

Adds an interesting twist to citrus blends but can cause irritation so only use in very small amounts.

GRAPEFRUIT (Citrus paradisi) Top note

Does not hold well in cold processed soaps but a good choice for liquid soap. Nice addition to lavender.

HOWOOD LEAF (Cinnamomum camphora) Middle note

Only use in very small quantities due to the possibility of skin irritation. Has a sweet, earthy fragrance that blends well with sweet orange and lavender.

LAVENDER (Lavendula officinalis) Top note

A wonderful staple oil that holds up well. Even if you hate lavender, understand that lavender soap outsells all other varieties 8 to 1.

LEMON (Citrus limonum) Top note

Therapeutic and healing when used in creams but unless cleverly blended does not hold up well in cold processed soap. Try Litsea cubeba or Lemongrass as a refreshing citrus alternative.

LEMONGRASS (Cymbopogon citratus) Top note

Refreshing citrus fragrance that holds well in cold processed soap and blends well with lavender. Excellent choice for men but can cause irritation so keep the percentages low.

MANDARIN (Citrus reticulate) Top note

A citrus scent with floral undertones, lovely in liquid soap and creams but no staying power in cold processed soaps.

MAY CHANG (Litsea cubeba) Top note

Has a great citrus scent that can be used to anchor other scents. Holds up very well in cold process soap.

NEROLI (Melaleuca viridiflora) Middle note

Used as the basis for eau de cologne, this bitter orange blossom scent is highly prized and priced and should not be wasted in cold processed soap.

PALMAROSA (Cymbopogon martini) Middle note

Fresh, sweet and floral with a rose geranium overtone. Has moisturizing and balancing properties.

PATCHOULI (Pogostemon patchouli) Base note

The stuff of incense sticks and cachous, patchouli is a wonderful anchor for blends and brings on waves of 60s nostalgia when used on its own. Lovely with geranium and/or lavender.

PEPPERMINT (Metha piperata) Top note

A stimulating oil that is good in foot creams and insect repellents. Should not be used during the first three months of pregnancy.

TEA TREE (Melaleuca alternifolia) Top note

Antiseptic in both purpose and fragrance and will help to preserve creams and lotions. Good for insect bites and acne.

YLANG YLANG (Cananga odorata) Middle note

Heady floral fragrance that holds up well in cold process soap and adds a touch of romance to a blend of oils.