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STATE HIGHWAY 168 WEST SIDE TRIPS

Wishon Reservoir—Woodchuck Trailhead 6670’; 11S 325266 4096222

Information and Permits: This trailhead is in Sierra National Forest: 1600 Tollhouse Road, Clovis, CA 93611, 559-297-0706, www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/. Permits are required for overnight stays, and quotas apply; reserved permits and on-demand permits are available.

Driving Directions: From Clovis (near Fresno), take Hwy. 168 42 miles northeast to the resort town of Shaver Lake. Turn right (generally east) onto Dinkey Creek Road and follow it 26 miles to the Courtright/Wishon Y. Take the right fork south to Wishon Reservoir, 4 more miles south. Wishon Reservoir’s Woodchuck Trailhead is located immediately across the dam on the left side (east) of the road.

4 Halfmoon Lake

Trip Data: 11S 335355 4102079; 26 miles; 4/1 days

Topos: Rough Spur, Courtright Reservoir, Blackcap Mtn.

Highlights: Halfmoon Lake is set in an amphitheater of granite walls sculpted by vanished rivers of ice. Its shallow basin and lower elevation create relatively warm water temperatures. Head for Halfmoon Lake via Woodchuck Lake and then make a semiloop on the return via Chimney Lake.

DAY 1 (Woodchuck Trailhead to Woodchuck Lake, 8 miles): From the Woodchuck Trailhead, the trail climbs nearly 400 feet before curving east and briefly joining a dirt road. Step onto the dirt road and turn south (right) to follow the road 30 feet to a signed junction. At this junction, take the trail branching left (southeast) and continue climbing.

From the junction, the trail climbs steeply 500 feet before it swings north and begins a scenic traverse high on the forested ridge east of Wishon Reservoir. The trail undulates under dense stands of incense-cedar, white fir, and sugar pine (the latter easily identified by its large cones and its five needles per bundle), and past shallow gullies where the vegetation dramatically changes to a lush understory of bracken fern, lupine, gooseberry, columbine, and mugwort.

After nearly 2 miles, the trail turns east, swapping views of Wishon Reservoir for views north toward Lost Peak (8476’) and other granitic domes. The trail tops a moraine, a mass of rock debris left behind by vanished glaciers, before it descends into Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. At this point, you may hear the Helms Project Powerhouse, across the North Fork Kings River’s canyon to the north.

Beyond an aspen-studded meadow, the trail curves north and descends to ford Woodchuck Creek (may be difficult in early season). From the ford, the trail ascends north under higher elevation species of red fir and lodgepole pine and then bears east to switchback 500 feet over a minor ridge hosting a campsite. From the ridge, enjoy views west toward Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. Very quickly, the trail meets a signed junction (8510’) with a trail to Chuck Pass (right; south-southeast).

Today’s route turns left (northeast) toward Crown Pass and crosses several branches of an unnamed creek via three log bridges. Curving north again, the trail makes a short but steep ascent over another moraine to the south end of a lush meadow. Follow the track across the meadow to Moore Boys Camp (8710’), 6 miles from the trailhead and on the far side of the meadow. Fishing is poor for brook trout, and mosquitoes are voracious until late summer.

Just beyond Moore Boys Camp is a signed junction (8720’) with trails right (east-northeast) to Chimney Lake and Crown Pass and left (north-northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake. Note this junction; you’ll return here on Day 3.

Turn left (north-northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake, cross a couple braids of Woodchuck Creek, and meander past lodgepole pines interspersed with large boulders. As the route ascends moderately along pure lodgepole pine stands, views north reveal the sheer granite ledges that enclose Woodchuck Country. Easterners mistook the Sierra’s marmots for the East’s woodchucks and gave the area this erroneous name, which has stuck.

After topping out at 9840 feet, the trail descends 0.1 mile into Woodchuck Lake’s basin (9812´; 11S 332701 4101144). At the lake’s northwest bank, a small spur trail leads 100 yards south to large campsites. The main trail skirts the lake’s sandy north shore, passing more campsites.

DAY 2 (Woodchuck Lake to Halfmoon Lake, 6 miles): En route to the south end of Woodchuck Lake, the trail crosses the eastern inlet and enters the gentle, lush terrain of the southern inlet’s meadow. The trail gradually ascends out of Woodchuck Lake’s basin and climbs 200 feet southward over the next mile before reaching a signed junction (9960’). The right fork goes southwest back toward Wishon Reservoir by way of a spur to Chimney Lake; note this junction, because you’ll also come back here on Day 3.

For now, take the left fork (northeast) past a seasonal creek to a minor saddle where the trail briefly descends past a shallow pond. Your route then continues along barren granite slopes, climbing the south shoulder of an unnamed peak. This climb tops out 250 feet higher than upcoming Crown Pass. Descending the unnamed peak’s eastern flanks, the trail reaches a junction (10,180’) immediately before Crown Pass, where the right fork turns southeast toward Crown Lake (Trip 6’s destination).

This day’s route continues straight ahead (north-northeast) at this junction. Just beyond the signed junction, pine-filtered views lead to Scepter Peak, which separates Crown and Halfmoon lakes and their drainages (Crown to Middle Fork Kings River, and Halfmoon to North Fork Kings River).

Crown Pass (10,189’) is nestled in the saddle between Crown Peak to the northeast and that unnamed higher peak (10,520’) whose eastern slopes you’ve just descended. (For an exhilarating view, head west cross-country to the unnamed higher peak’s summit for a panorama from the LeConte Divide and Kettle Ridge down the forested slopes west of Wishon Reservoir, and north-south from the Minarets near Mammoth Mountain to the high peaks of the Great Western Divide and the Kings-Kern Divide. Return to Crown Pass.)

Continuing, the rocky path descends toward Halfmoon Lake, moderately at first and then on steep switchbacks under western white and lodgepole pines. Heavily used campsites are located on the north and west banks with larger, more attractive sites situated across the outflow. Halfmoon Lake (9430’; 11S 354494 4016101) is a jewel in a granite setting and offers good swimming and fishing for brook and rainbow trout.

Halfmoon Lake is a jewel of the Sierra, offering excellent swimming and fishing opportunities.

DAY 3 (Halfmoon Lake to Chimney Lake, 5 miles): Retrace your steps to the Chimney Lake/Woodchuck Lake junction described in Day 2 (9960’). Beginning the loop part of this trip, turn left (south) toward Wishon Reservoir and descend past outcrops left by ancient volcanic mudflows.

In 1.5 miles, find another junction (9460’), this one with a spur trail to Chimney Lake. Turn right (northeast) toward Chimney Lake, which the trail reaches in 0.4 mile. Campsites at Chimney Lake (9484’; 331717 4099549) are just off the trail on the lake’s northwest side, surrounded by towering trees and lichen-covered boulders. Its shallow basin and lower elevation mean its water is relatively warm and supports a healthy population of rainbow trout. Chimney Lake is not as popular an overnight destination as the other lakes along this route, due to its marshy banks, which host thick clouds of mosquitoes in the early to mid-season. During the late season, with breeding grounds drying up, head 0.3 mile farther to Marsh Lake.

DAY 4 (Chimney Lake to Woodchuck Trailhead, 7 miles): Retrace your steps south on the Chimney Lake spur trail, back to the junction with the main trail (9460’). At this junction, turn right and head generally west toward the next junction where, on Day 1, you turned north toward Woodchuck Lake (8720’). The loop part of this trip ends here.

Today, turn left (southwest) and reverse the first part of Day 1’s steps through Moore Boys Camp, past the Chuck Pass junction, and on to Wishon Reservoir and the Woodchuck Trailhead.

5 Blackcap Basin

Trip Data: 11S 343726 4101161; 41 miles; 6/1 days

Topos: Rough Spur, Courtright Reservoir, Blackcap Mtn.

Highlights: One of a dozen High Sierra lakes within Blackcap Basin, Portal Lake occupies the top steps of a glacial staircase. Although official trails end at Portal Lake, exploration into the vast Blackcap Basin and beyond through this “portal” leads to exquisite scenic beauty at the west edge of the LeConte Divide and Kettle Ridge, deep in the heart of John Muir Wilderness.

DAY 1 (Woodchuck Trailhead to Woodchuck Lake, 8 miles): (Recap: Trip 4, Day 1.) From the Woodchuck Trailhead, the trail climbs nearly 400 feet, curves east, and joins a dirt road for 30 feet to a signed junction. Go left (southeast) and continue climbing steeply 500 feet, swing north, and begin a scenic traverse. After nearly 2 miles, the path turns east, tops a moraine, and then descends into Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. The trail curves north and descends to ford the creek (may be difficult in early season). From the ford, the path ascends north and then bears east to switchback 500 feet over a minor ridge. The trail meets a signed junction (8510’) with a trail to Chuck Pass. Turn left (northeast) toward Crown Pass, ford multiple branches of a creek, and, curving north again, make a short but steep ascent over another moraine to the south end of a meadow. Follow the track across the meadow to Moore Boys Camp (8710’) and then a signed junction (8720’) with trails right (east-northeast) to Chimney Lake and Crown Pass and left (north-northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake. Turn left (northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake and cross a couple braids of Woodchuck Creek. After topping out at 9840 feet, the trail descends 0.1 mile into Woodchuck Lake’s basin (9812’; 11S 332701 4101144), where Day 1 ends.

DAY 2 (Woodchuck Lake to Halfmoon Lake, 6 miles): (Recap: Trip 4, Day 2.) Head for the lake’s south end, cross the eastern inlet, and enter the southern inlet’s meadow. The gradual ascent out of Woodchuck Lake’s basin climbs 200 feet southward over the next mile before reaching a signed junction; take the left fork (northeast) to a minor saddle and descend past a shallow pond. The track then climbs 250 feet over the south shoulder of an unnamed peak above Crown Pass. As it descends, the trail reaches a junction (10,180’) a little before Crown Pass proper; continue straight ahead (north-northeast) here to find Crown Pass (10,189’) between Crown Peak to the northeast and the unnamed higher peak (10,520’) whose eastern flanks you’ve just descended. Continuing, the rocky path descends toward Halfmoon Lake (9430’; 11S 354494 4016101) to end Day 2.

DAY 3 (Halfmoon Lake to Blackcap Basin, 6.5 miles): At the lake’s north side, the route reaches a signed junction with a trail that leads straight ahead (north) toward Maxson Meadow. Take the right fork eastward, ford the creek, and head through lodgepole and western white pine stands.

The path climbs around a rocky ridge and then curves southeast, winding gently along a forested bench and skirting a number of shallow gullies that have produced lush meadows, a mosquito haven during the wetter months. After a short descent and a ford of Maxson Lake’s outlet, the path meets the southeast-bound North Fork Kings River Trail (9140’) coming up on the left from Courtright Reservoir (a more heavily used trail into the headwaters of North Fork Kings River).

From this signed junction, continue east (straight ahead), leaving the open flats of the meadow. The hike climbs steadily up the southern slopes of the glacially polished, narrowing walls of the Kings River’s canyon, offering increasingly expansive views east-southeast toward Blackcap Basin. As the canyon narrows, the sounds of flowing water become more audible, and the path returns to the riverside. The gentle but steady ascent under the shade of a lodgepole pine forest traverses areas swept by avalanches, where vigorous willow thickets outcompete conifers. North Fork Kings River on your left (north)—sometimes near and sometimes far, sometimes meandering slowly through meadows and sometimes cascading past large granite slabs—contains a healthy population of golden, brook, and brown trout. Brisk and incredibly refreshing swimming holes scoured smooth by the crystalline river will rejuvenate weary hikers.

The trail briefly leaves the North Fork and climbs south toward Portal Lake to join its outlet stream. As the grade levels, the path leads to a picturesque and expansive meadow where a campsite marks the junction with the Crown Basin Trail (10,170’). Go left (southeast) toward Portal Lake; just beyond this campsite is the easy-to-miss ford (difficult during high water) of Portal Lake’s outlet. (Hikers have missed the ford and simply followed the granite slabs southeast toward Portal Lake.) Beyond the ford, the trail climbs via short switchbacks to the small, scenic campsites on the north shore of Portal Lake (10,340’; 11S 343726 4101161). If Portal Lake’s sites are full, continue northeast cross-country 0.2 mile to the banks of the neighboring unnamed lake (10,390’).

EXPLORING BLACKCAP AND CROWN BASINS

From Portal Lake, you can take several easily traversed cross-country routes into Blackcap Basin and Crown Basin:

To journey deeper into Blackcap Basin: Leave Portal Lake along the barren granite slabs northeast and follow gentle terrain before briefly ascending 200 feet south of the headwaters of North Fork Kings River as it cascades below Pearl Lake (10,631’). From Pearl Lake’s northwest finger, the easiest route climbs due north past a minor knoll and into the Division Lake Basin. From there, Regiment Lake (10,960’) and Battalion Lake (11,050’) can be reached by ascending the inlet cross-country upstream.

For Crown Basin: Follow the gentle, sloping ridge southwest above Portal Lake and continue along the open granite slabs south to several shallow unnamed lakes. From there, follow Crown Creek downstream to a small tributary that is fed by Hummingbird Lake (10,365’).

DAYS 4–6 (Blackcap Basin to Woodchuck Trailhead, 20.5 miles): Retrace your steps.

6 Crown Lake

Trip Data: 11S 33567 4100360; 25 miles; 4/1 days

Topos: Rough Spur, Courtright Reservoir, Blackcap Mtn.

Highlights: The broad, gentle terrain surrounding Crown Lake allows excursions off the beaten path in search of solitude. This trek provides the opportunity to commune peacefully along one of the finest series of meadows in the southern Sierra.

DAY 1 (Woodchuck Trailhead to Woodchuck Lake, 8 miles): (Recap: Trip 4, Day 1.) From the trailhead, the trail climbs nearly 400 feet, curves east, and joins a dirt road for 30 feet to a signed junction. Go left (southeast) and continue climbing steeply 500 feet, swing north, and begin a scenic traverse. After nearly 2 miles, the path turns east, tops a moraine, and then descends into Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. The trail curves north and descends to ford the creek (may be difficult in early season). From the ford, the path ascends north and then bears east to switchback 500 feet over a minor ridge. The route meets a signed junction (8510’) with a trail to Chuck Pass; note this junction for your return on Day 4.

Turn left (northeast) toward Crown Pass, ford multiple branches of a creek, and, curving north again, make a short but steep ascent over another moraine to the south end of a meadow. Follow the track across the meadow to Moore Boys Camp (8710’) and then a signed junction (8720’) with trails right (east-northeast) to Chimney Lake and Crown Pass and left (north-northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake. Turn left (northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake and cross a couple braids of Woodchuck Creek. After topping out at 9840 feet, the trail descends 0.1 mile into Woodchuck Lake’s basin (9812’; 11S 332701 4101144), where Day 1 ends.

DAY 2 (Woodchuck Lake to Crown Lake, 3.5 miles): Head for the lake’s south end, cross the eastern inlet, and enter the southern inlet’s meadow. The trail gradually ascends out of Woodchuck Lake’s basin and climbs 200 feet southward over the next mile before reaching a signed junction; take the left fork (northeast) to a minor saddle and descend past a shallow pond. The track then climbs 250 feet over the south shoulder of an unnamed peak above Crown Pass. As it descends, the trail reaches a junction (10,180’) a little before Crown Pass proper; turn right (south) toward Crown Lake.

From the junction, the trail descends steeply south 400 feet to the large, lodgepole-rimmed meadow of Crown Lake (9730’; 11S 33567 4100360). Viewed from the pass, the lake does have a crown-like shape, but its west side, containing several small pools, can be marshy and a haven for mosquitoes. Campsites are best on the east side of the lake, where the trail skirts along the southern slopes of the ridge above Crown Pass.

Surprise, Crown Lake is miles west of Crown Basin, and the lake’s outlet flows into Scepter Creek, which finally joins Crown Creek many miles southeast of here.

DAY 3 (Crown Lake to Indian Springs, 6 miles): The trail becomes somewhat indistinct as it crosses the southern marshlands below Crown Lake, but it is easy to locate along the east side of the unnamed outlet creek. Descend easily in moderate forest, at first lodgepole but later mixed with western white pine. Intermittent marshy patches interrupt the trail’s loose duff surface as the path descends gently south on the east side of this creek.

At a junction with the Scepter Lake Trail (9420’), go ahead (south) and then cross the creek. The trail’s faint tread swings west of Scepter Creek, so that it is out of sight and sound, but it returns to creekside at another meadow. Beyond this meadow, the route leads to another meadow and then continues south to a junction with the Chuck Pass Trail (9255’).

Turn right (west) on this level trail and soon ford the sandy-bottomed, unnamed stream that drains Chuck Pass. Climb moderately up the southwest side of the little creek. The string of forest-bordered meadows along the creek’s headwaters are, in the mountain springtime, narrow emerald ribbons interspersed with lush gardens—one of the finest series of meadows in the Sierra. After topping out at Chuck Pass (9540’), the rocky trail leads down through a park-like, spacious pine forest on a set of steep, dusty switchbacks. Soon, the route passes above a rocky, snag-strewn meadow, and then it descends to pass a series of sweeping green meadows, where the wildflower population boasts a tapestry of colors and aromas. Descending gently, the trail crosses a creek and skirts a large meadow. Soon you arrive at the attractive campsites at the west end of the meadow beside Indian Springs (8890’), between the trail and Woodchuck Creek.

DAY 4 (Indian Springs to Woodchuck Trailhead, 7.5 miles): The trail heads west down the valley of Woodchuck Creek, its tread often soft and muddy from the seepage of springs. It penetrates a dense forest of lodgepole pine and reaches a junction with the Hoffman Mountain Trail (8610’).

Turn right (north) and immediately pass the ruins of an old cabin at abandoned Lacy Camp. The sandy forest path then dips west to meet the Wishon/Halfmoon Lake Trail at the Chuck Pass/Crown Pass junction, where you turned toward Crown Pass on Day 1.

From here, turn left (ahead, west) and retrace your steps to the trailhead.

The trail tops out 250 feet above Crown Pass before reaching the junction to Crown Lake.