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Florence Lake Trailhead 7360’; 11S 324899 4127475

Information and Permits: This trailhead is in Sierra National Forest: 1600 Tollhouse Road, Clovis, CA 93611, 559-297-0706, www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/. Permits are required for overnight stays, and quotas apply; reserved permits and on-demand permits are available.

Driving Directions: From Fresno, take State Hwy. 168 northeast for 42 winding, slow miles toward its end at a T junction on the east shore of Huntington Lake at the community of Lakeshore. Just before reaching Lakeshore, turn right onto the Kaiser Pass Road at the Eastwood Forest Service Center. The road quickly becomes very steep, narrow, and bumpy before Kaiser Pass and is even worse beyond the pass. Blind curves and reckless drivers are problems on this stretch. Allow time to drive very slowly (about 10 mph). As the road descends north and then east from the pass, find seasonally open High Sierra Ranger Station, where you can get on-demand permits. One mile beyond is the Lake Edison/Florence Lake Y junction. Turn right (east) on the Florence Lake Road for another 6 miles to the overnight parking lot. Beyond the far end of the lot, look leftward to the store and water taxi or rightward to the trailhead.

14 Martha Lake

Trip Data: 11S 345061 4106896; 38/46 miles; 6/1 days

Topos: Florence Lake, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mountain, Mt. Henry, Mt. Goddard

Highlights: Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, this trip visits remote backcountry in the northwestern corner of Kings Canyon National Park. The scenery along South Fork San Joaquin River is stunning, with a parade of thrilling cataracts, cascades, and waterfalls visible from the trail. The long journey up the river culminates in a splendid crescendo at Martha Lake, a large alpine lake cradled in a rocky cirque basin nearly surrounded by craggy peaks and ridges. Along the way, sore backpackers can soak their weary bones in the soothing waters of Blayney Hot Springs.

HEADS UP! You can save a total of 8 miles of uninspiring hiking along the shore of Florence Lake with arrangements for a water-taxi ride across the lake. The different distances shown above and in the Day headers below reflect this (with water taxi/without).

WATER TAXI

Rather than backpack the first 4 miles, you could purchase a ticket at the store and take advantage of the ferry ride across Florence Lake. From 8:30 A.M. to 5 P.M., the ferry makes a minimum of five scheduled trips (more on weekends) across the lake and back. From the ferry dock at the far end of the lake, climb uphill over barren granite slopes for a half mile to the junction with the trail around Florence Lake. For your return, there’s a radiophone near the dock, from which you can call the store for your ride back.

DAY 1 (Florence Lake Trailhead to PCT/JMT Junction, 5.5/9.5 miles): If you’ve elected not to take the ferry, follow the paved road through the picnic area, down to the lake, and along the west shore to the beginning of single-track trail. Enter John Muir Wilderness and proceed generally south across gently rolling terrain beneath mixed forest for 2 miles to a junction with the Burnt Corral Meadows Trail. Continue ahead (southeast) at the junction, traveling above the southwest arm of the lake for another mile to a junction with a lateral to the Burnt Corral Meadow Trail. Go ahead (southeast) here.

From there, head downhill to a bridge over a stream. A short stroll leads to another bridge, this one spanning South Fork San Joaquin River at 3.5 miles from the trailhead. Lodgepole-shaded campsites are spread along both banks of the river and a pit toilet is up the north hillside. From the bridge, head upstream and briefly follow the trail along the river until a moderate, half-mile climb over granite slabs leads to the ferry dock lateral.

JEEP ROAD

Keen eyes will spy a primitive jeep road beyond the southeast end of the lake. Muir Trail Ranch, 2.5 miles upstream, uses an old Army personnel carrier to transport guests along this road, which parallels and occasionally coincides with the route of the hiking trail. Such activity would seem incompatible with the idea of wilderness, but the family-owned operation has been in business for more than 50 years and was grandfathered into the 1964 Wilderness Act.

From the ferry junction, turn right (east) and climb over granite slabs and up dry gullies for a mile to the edge of pastoral Double Meadow. There is an ancient, fallen Jeffrey pine next to the trail here, and a cross-section of the tree is labeled with a chronology of human events. After skirting the meadow, the trail crosses a seasonal stream lined with grasses and wildflowers and then makes a gradual descent to a crossing of Alder Creek, where sheltered campsites are found on the far bank. A short distance past the creek is a lateral to better campsites near the river at Lower Blayney Campground. Past this junction, the broad expanse of Blayney Meadows momentarily springs into view, but the path quickly veers away in favor of a forested route that bypasses the meadows.

About 2.5 miles from the ferry dock, you pass through a gate at the fenced boundary of privately owned Muir Trail Ranch. The route across the ranch property may be difficult to distinguish amid a maze of dusty stock trails and the churned-up jeep road. Farther down the road, pay close attention to makeshift signs that direct you away from the road and onto single-track trail to the left. Proceed southeastward through open terrain and light forest on gently graded trail to crossings of Sallie Keyes and Senger creeks. A moderate climb of a hillside, followed by a lightly forested traverse, leads to a chain gate.

MUIR TRAIL RANCH

Although the presence of a resort seems inconsistent with a designated wilderness area, Muir Trail Ranch is hiker-friendly. For a small fee, packages can be held at the ranch for John Muir and Pacific Crest through-hikers. On the rare occasion when the ranch is not completely booked, usually only in early June, backpackers can purchase an overnight stay complete with three meals. Unfortunately, single meals are not available to non-guests. For more information, check out the ranch’s website at www.muirtrailranch.com.

Beyond the gate, you continue across an open hillside in cadence to the rhythmic sound of a Pelton wheel that generates electricity for the ranch below. Reach an open knoll and then drop to a signed junction of a lateral accessing the ranch and Blayney Hot Springs.

BLAYNEY HOT SPRINGS

To visit the hot springs, turn right (south) and proceed a mere 50 feet, where the trail divides again—follow the path on the left marked HOT SPRINGS and pass overused campsites to the north bank of South Fork San Joaquin River. Ford the broad stretch of the river (difficult in early season) and reach more overused campsites on the far bank. Beyond the campsites, a use trail crosses Shooting Star Meadow to access the public pool at Blayney Hot Springs. Please enter and exit carefully, as the muddy pool is very susceptible to erosion.

Just beyond a patch of willows is “Warm Lake,” a magical little gem of a swimming hole that is the result of an unlikely combination of beaver dams, moraines, and springs having come together far below the usual elevations common for Sierra lakes. This area is very fragile, so please minimize your impact by being a good steward of this healing place.

Return to the junction and head southeast on gradually rising trail through light forest to a well-signed junction with a steep lateral to the PCT/JMT climbing northbound toward Selden Pass. Go ahead (southeast) and upstream as the main trail continues to parallel the river through a scattered forest of aspens, lodgepole pines, and Jeffrey pines. Pass by a stagnant pond and reach an extensive camping area that occupies a forested bench above the river, 5.5 miles from the ferry dock, just prior to a junction with the John Muir Trail (8025´; 11S 334845, 4121555).

DAY 2 (PCT/JMT Junction to Goddard Canyon Trail Junction, 5.75 miles): Now on the southeast-trending JMT, follow the course of the river through a mixture of granite and conifers, with fine views of the South Fork San Joaquin over the next couple of miles or so. Just prior to the confluence of Piute Creek with the river is a junction with the Piute Pass Trail, 7.75 miles from the ferry dock. Go ahead (briefly east) and immediately find a steel bridge that spans the tumultuous creek and crosses the border into Kings Canyon National Park. A number of good campsites can be found on a flat near the junction, bordered by chaparral and partially shaded by widely scattered Jeffrey pines.

Hike upstream on a gradual, exposed climb around John Muir Rock and then draw nearer the river as it flows through a narrow channel of dark rock. About 1.5 miles from the Piute Pass Trail junction, enter the cool forested glade of aspens and pines misnamed Aspen Meadow. While there is no semblance of a meadow here, but there are a few sheltered campsites.

Leave Aspen Meadow behind and continue to follow the river upstream on a gradual, mile-long climb of a narrow and exposed section of the canyon. Cross a steel bridge over the river to a small, forested flat, where a use trail leads shortly downstream to campsites. Now on the south side of the river, pass through a gate near more campsites, and walk through wildflower gardens to ford a vigorous stream draining several tarns below LeConte Divide. Reach campsites shaded by a mixed forest of aspens, lodgepole pines, and junipers near the signed junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail (10,100´; 11S 340681, 4117756).

From the junction, head either right (south) a short distance up the Goddard Canyon Trail, or left (briefly east, then north) across the river on the JMT’s wooden bridge to fine campsites within sound of the soothing South Fork San Joaquin.

DAY 3 (Goddard Canyon Trail Junction to Martha Lake, 7.75 miles): If necessary, return to the junction and take the Goddard Canyon Trail southward. Climb moderately through a light forest of lodgepole pines a half mile to Franklin Meadow, where tall aspens dot a picturesque, wildflower-laden grassland bisected by gurgling rivulets. A couple of primitive campsites are near the south end of the meadow just above the river.

Follow the trail away from the meadow and the river for a while on a gradual-to-moderate climb through the trees. Soon, the narrowing walls of the canyon force the path up the hillside and along an ascending traverse above the river. Pass more campsites on a narrow bench overlooking the river on the way to a lush hillside well watered by a series of rivulets and carpeted with willows, aspens, and wildflowers, including paintbrush, clover, coneflower, columbine, and heather. Visible across this verdant meadowland is Pig Chute, where a seasonal stream pours down a narrow, rocky cleft beside a dark, knife-edged protrusion of rock. Farther up the trail, a spectacular waterfall spills into an emerald pool.

For a while, the trail heads upstream with spectacular views across Goddard Canyon of the cascading river plunging down a narrow, deep, rocky cleft. Along the way, pass two more waterfalls as scenic as any to be found in the High Sierra and cross several flower-lined streams spilling across the trail.

Near the confluence with North Goddard Creek, the canyon widens, allowing the river to slow down and broaden. Stroll through meadowlands for a fine view of both river canyons separated by a low rock dome. A short, moderate climb leads to an unsigned junction with the Hell-for-Sure Pass Trail, 5 miles from the JMT junction. A few primitive campsites shaded by a grove of trees can be found a short distance beyond the junction, near a creek crossing. Go ahead (south-southeast) on the Goddard Canyon Trail.

Now the upper part of Goddard Canyon spreads out in subalpine splendor on an ascent of lush meadowlands, unbroken except for an occasional stunted pine or small clump of willows. Pockets of lupine and heather accent the green meadow as you gaze south and southeastward toward the mighty hulks of Mt. Goddard and Mt. Reinstein. Eventually, the path grows indistinct, but the route upstream along the South Fork is obvious on the way to its birthplace beneath the LeConte and Goddard divides. Flowers cover the slopes, including daisy, shooting star, and paintbrush.

After crossing the outlet stream from Lake Confusion, which is high above, begin a moderately steep, cross-country ascent over grassy benches and granite slabs to the lip of the basin holding Martha Lake. From there, a short, easy stroll leads to the west shore of the austere, rock-bound lake (11,004´; 11S 345061 4106896).

AT MARTHA LAKE

A smattering of small pocket meadows almost soften the predominantly barren, rocky shoreline of the lake. Situated above timberline near the convergence of three divides—Goddard, LeConte, and White—the lake is located in a truly alpine environment. The dark, rugged flanks of Mt. Goddard (13,368´) tower 2500 feet over the northeast shore, while Mt. Reinstein (12,604´) provides a fine backdrop to the south. Although developed campsites are virtually nonexistent, resourceful backpackers will be able to find sandy spots suitable for pitching a tent in various locations around the shoreline. Anglers can ply the waters in search of rainbow and golden trout. For cross-country enthusiasts, Martha Lake is also the western gateway into some of the most coveted off-trail terrain in the High Sierra: Directly east lies the mysterious realm of Ionian Basin, a trip through which is considered a Sierra classic. Mountaineers may want to tackle the Class 2–3 route up the southeast ridge of Mt. Goddard.

DAYS 4–6 (Martha Lake to Florence Lake Trailhead, 19/23 miles): Retrace your steps to the trailhead.

15 Red Mountain Basin

Trip Data: 11S 370824 1184859; 43.5/51.5 miles; 6/1 days

Topos: Florence Lake, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mountain, Mt. Henry, Mt. Goddard

Highlights: Red Mountain Basin offers backpackers the type of scenery for which the High Sierra is famous: Alpine peaks, glacier-scoured terrain, and sparkling lakes highlight this rugged area on the west side of the LeConte Divide. A bounty of picturesque lakes—some near the trail and others a short, easy cross-country jaunt away—make excellent base camps for the exploration of the extensive basin. Travelers can expect to find solitude on this multilayer journey along the lightly used trails necessary to reach Red Mountain Basin.

HEADS UP! You can save 4 miles of uninspiring hiking along the shore of Florence Lake by arranging for a ferry ride across the lake.

DAY 1 (Florence Lake Trailhead to PCT/JMT Junction, 5.5 miles): (Recap Trip 14, Day 1.) Follow the trail 4 miles generally southward around Florence Lake, or take the ferry to the dock on the far side and take the ferry dock lateral east to meet the Florence Lake Trail. From this junction, go ahead (east) over granite slabs and up dry gullies on a combination of single-track trail and jeep road around Double Meadow and across Alder Creek to a junction with a lateral that accesses campsites at Lower Blayney Camp. Follow a forested path southeastward around Blayney Meadows and continue across the private property of Muir Trail Ranch. In the midst of the ranch property, reach a crudely signed junction and follow single-track trail southeastward across Sallie Keyes and Senger creeks, past the ranch boundary, and to a junction with a lateral to Blayney Hot Springs and Muir Trail Ranch. To visit the hot springs, follow the directions in the sidebar, “Blayney Hot Springs,”.

To stay or get back on the main trail, from the junction, head southeast on a gradual climb through light forest to a junction with a lateral trail north and steeply uphill to the PCT/JMT much farther north than you want to go. Don’t take the lateral; go ahead here (southeast), upstream along the river, to campsites on a forested bench just before a junction with the PCT/JMT (8025´; 11S 334845 4121555).

DAY 2 (PCT/JMT Junction to Goddard Canyon Trail Junction, 5.75 miles): (Recap Trip 14, Day 2.) Follow the southeast-trending JMT along South Fork San Joaquin River to the junction of the Piute Pass Trail, cross a bridge over the river, and enter Kings Canyon National Park (campsites). Go ahead (briefly east and then southeast) and continue upstream around John Muir Rock to Aspen Meadow (campsites) and across another bridge over the river (campsites). Follow the south bank upstream past additional campsites to a junction of the PCT/JMT and the Goddard Canyon Trail. Good campsites can be found near the junction along either trail.

DAY 3 (Goddard Canyon Trail Junction to Disappointment Lake, 10.5 miles): Return to the Goddard Canyon Trail and turn south. Climb moderately through Franklin Meadow into a narrowing section of the canyon. Near the confluence with North Goddard Creek, the canyon widens and the grade eases as the trail passes through flower-filled meadowlands. Make a short, moderate climb to an unsigned junction with the Hell for Sure Pass Trail, 5 miles from the JMT junction (campsites).

Turn right (west) at the junction and begin a 4-mile jaunt toward Hell for Sure Pass. After a half mile, switchbacking climb, the trail follows a gentle 2-mile traverse that heads northwest across the west wall of Goddard Canyon. Near the end of the traverse, you hop across a creek draining the slopes below the pass. A short distance beyond this initial crossing, begin an 1150-foot climb that generally follows the north side of creek’s drainage on the way to Hell for Sure Pass (11,297´; 11S 370845 1184746).

The views of Goddard Canyon have been stunning since you left the Goddard Canyon Trail, but they reach a climax at the pass, where views open up to the west over Red Mountain Basin. While the route from Goddard Canyon to Hell for Sure Pass has consumed 4 miles of hiking, the trail down into Red Mountain Basin plunges rapidly to Hell for Sure Lake, tightly winding 500 feet down a steep gully to the north shore of the 10,782-foot lake. Tucked into a stunning cirque immediately below LeConte Divide, the lake is surrounded by polished granite slabs that sparkle in the sunlight of a typically clear Sierra sky. Tiny pockets of meadow make feeble attempts to break up the otherwise rocky slopes of the basin. A few campsites are scattered around the north shore, and fishing is reported to be good for medium-size brook trout.

From Hell for Sure Lake, descend a hillside of granite slabs, pass by some small tarns, and step over a sparkling stream on the way to an unmarked lateral heading south that leads shortly to Disappointment Lake (10342´; 11S 370824 1184859). Backdropped by Mt. Hutton and the craggy LeConte Divide, the lake is as attractive as any in the High Sierra, with alternating sections of meadow and sandy beach ringing the north shore and rolling granite slabs along the south shore. Fine campsites with grand views of the surrounding terrain will reward tired backpackers. A healthy population of brook trout should satisfy anglers.

EXPLORING RED MOUNTAIN BASIN

Red Mountain Basin offers many alternatives for spending extra days exploring the region. Several lakes are easily accessible by connecting trails, and many other lakes can be visited via easy cross-country routes. Due to the lengthy approaches necessary to reach the basin, you’re unlikely to encounter many other backpackers. For peakbaggers, Red Mountain is a straightforward Class 1 climb from Hell for Sure Pass.

DAYS 4–6 (Disappointment Lake to Florence Lake Trailhead, 21.75/25.75 miles): Retrace your steps to the trailhead. A radiophone is available near the ferry landing for arranging your return via the water taxi across Florence Lake.