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Courtright Reservoir—Cliff Lake Trailhead 8454; 11S 323436 4108468

Information and Permits: This trailhead is in Sierra National Forest: 1600 Tollhouse Road, Clovis, CA 93611, 559-297-0706, www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/. Permits are required for overnight stays, and quotas apply; reserved permits and on-demand permits are available.

Driving Directions: From Clovis (near Fresno), take Hwy. 168 northeast for 42 miles; in Shaver Lake, turn right onto Dinkey Creek Road and follow it 26 miles to the Courtright/Wishon Y. Take the left fork to Courtright Reservoir, 7.5 more miles north. Drive along the left (west) side of the reservoir past Trapper Springs Campground until the road ends at Cliff Lake Trailhead. There are four bear boxes and room for a dozen cars at this Dinkey Lakes Wilderness trailhead (no water or toilets).

10 Cliff Lake

Trip Data: 11S 318673 4112363; 10 miles; 2/1 days

Topos: Courtright Reservoir, Dogtooth Peak, Ward Mtn.

Highlights: Splendid alpine scenery keeps hikers company as they enjoy this easy trip to a lake nestled under sheer granite cliffs and ledges. An optional climb of Dogtooth Peak adds to the scenery and adventure.

DAY 1 (Cliff Lake Trailhead to Cliff Lake, 5 miles): Leaving the trailhead, the path descends gradually northwest toward Courtright Reservoir, travels a half mile under the scattered shade of red fir and lodgepole pine, and passes a spur trail on the right (east). Continue ahead (generally northwest) and traverse two marshy and mosquito-rich areas along a wooden boardwalk.

THE ORIGIN OF “DINKEY”

One might assume that the name “Dinkey” refers to the dozens of small, unnamed, and unrecognized lakes within the wilderness area. But locals will tell you the 1863 legend of a tiny dog named Dinkey. On an outing with its owner, an aggressive grizzly bear charged. Dinkey, reportedly “no bigger than a rabbit,” attacked, biting the hind leg of the massive grizzly. The bear swiped, and, in a flash, Dinkey was lifeless. Yet Dinkey’s bravery was not in vain. Dinkey saved its owner, distracting the grizzly and allowing its owner enough time to grab his gun and kill the bear. Local legend and Dinkey Lakes Wilderness honor small but mighty Dinkey to this day.

From the northwest finger of Courtright Reservoir, the trail crosses Nelson Creek (difficult in early season) and turns left (northwest) at a junction, leaving Courtright Reservoir. Three miles from the trailhead, the path reaches a signed junction (8570´): A lightly traveled route leads right (north) to Helms Meadow, and another route leads left (southwest) to Nelson Lakes. Your route along the Cliff Lake Trail continues straight (northwest) through a dense forest of lodgepole, red fir, and western white pine.

The trail’s grade steepens over switchbacks as it passes through the filtered sunshine of a south-facing slope cloaked with red-barked manzanita shrubs and large western white pine. Enjoy views of Courtright Reservoir and the surrounding granite domes bordering its shores. Brown Peak (10,349´), Nelson Mountain (10,218´), and Eagle Peak (10,318´) tower on the southern skyline, while farther east, the desolate, sawtooth, granite peaks of the LeConte Divide can be seen breaking the seemingly endless expanse of sky.

Above the switchbacks, the trail returns to a more moderate grade and soon reaches an unmarked junction (9430´) with a spur trail left. Go left (west-northwest) to the banks of Cliff Lake (the right branch continues just above Cliff Lake toward Dogtooth Peak and Rock Lake). Descend this spur trail to the lower end of the lake and the first of six campsites that are nestled along the eastern shore, with a backdrop of sheer 400-foot granite walls that tower above the boulder-studded forest (9430´; 11S 318673 4112363).

The view from a minor summit reveals another peak dividing the “tooth” of the Dogtooth in two.

DAY 2 (Cliff Lake to Cliff Lake Trailhead, 5 miles): Retrace your steps.

BAGGING DOGTOOTH PEAK

To begin this trip, return to the previous junction (9430´) and turn left (northwest) directly above Cliff Lake. The trail meets a junction (9760´) 0.1 mile farther, with a right-branching trail east to Bullfrog Lake. Continue northwest along the left branch for a moderate, 500-foot climb to the prominent saddle and an unmarked junction with a use trail to Dogtooth Peak; here, enjoy views of the granite cliffs that lend their name to Cliff Lake, 400 feet below.

From the saddle and junction (9860´), turn right and follow the lightly traveled route east along the south side of the ridge. This expanse offers tremendous views of the varied and colorful southern Sierra landscape—sapphire alpine lakes bordered by forested mountains bearing granite peaks, spires, and domes. The level route traverses large granite slabs between two diminutive domes.

At a notch, the route turns steeply northeast to the base of Dogtooth Peak. Hiking cross-country to Dogtooth’s east side requires careful bouldering across large granite slabs. The view from a minor summit reveals another peak dividing the “tooth” of the Dogtooth in two.

At 10,302 feet, Dogtooth Peak, defined by jagged and glistening white-quartz chunks, resembles the finest ivory. At the summit, a relatively small expenditure of energy rewards peakbaggers with encompassing views of the myriad of high Sierra summits, including some of North America’s highest peaks along LeConte Divide. A host of barren granite domes encircle Courtright Reservoir to the southeast, while a short distance to the west, the 10,612-foot Three Sisters soar high above the thickly forested Dinkey Lakes basin.

11 Dinkey Lakes

Trip Data: 11S 323436 4108468 (Island Lake); 20 miles; 3/1 days

Topos: Courtright Reservoir, Dogtooth Peak

Highlights: Dinkey Lakes Wilderness receives far less traffic than its eastern neighbor, John Muir Wilderness. This well-graded route leads past nearly a dozen alpine lakes that are set amid granite spires and sawtooth ridgelines. The shallow lakes are relatively warm for swimming.

DAY 1 (Cliff Lake Trailhead to Island Lake, 7 miles): Follow the trail northwest to Courtright Reservoir. Near the reservoir’s northwest end, ford Nelson Creek (difficult in early season. At a signed junction (8570´), continue straight (northwest) through a dense forest of lodgepole, red fir, and western white pine.

The trail’s grade steepens over switchbacks. Above the switchbacks, the route returns to a more moderate grade and soon reaches an unmarked junction (9430´). Take the right fork (northwest) toward Dogtooth Peak and Rock Lake.

Ascend along switchbacks, climbing 110 feet to a junction right (east) to Bullfrog Lake. Go left (northwest), climbing another 200 feet to a saddle and unmarked trail junction to Dogtooth Peak (see for directions on how to bag Dogtooth Peak). From the saddle, descend north-northwest to Rock Lake (9590´). The first of several large campsites is nestled at the southeast shore, with more open south-facing sites along the northwest bank (fishing for brook). The path skirts Rock Lake’s eastern bank, crosses the outflow, and soon reaches a marked junction with a right-branching side trail (northeast) to Little Lake (9640´).

LITTLE LAKE

From this junction (9640´), the 0.8-mile side trail to Little Lake turns right (northeast) and descends along rocky switchbacks just northwest of the outflow that links Rock Lake and Little Lake. The descent quickly drops 300 feet through dense lodgepole pine before arcing northeast onto the grassy, mosquito-rich banks of shallow Little Lake. Little Lake is backdropped by the towering, serrated ridgeline of Dogtooth Peak. Come dusk and dawn, small rainbow and brook trout aggressively feed on the myriad of insects.

Several rocky, sun-drenched islands are surrounded by the blue waters of Island Lake.

The trail arcs along the northeastern shore of Second Dinkey Lake.

This trip’s route follows the left fork west, gently climbing 0.2 mile before dropping into the Dinkey Lakes basin and shortly reaching a Y-junction (9590´) with a trail left (south) to Island Lake. Take this path; en route to Island Lake, the path skirts Second Dinkey Lake’s west shore and then ascends a brief but steep 200 feet. The climb offers views of the wilderness’s highest peaks, the three towering granite monoliths of the Three Sisters: 10,436 feet, 10,438 feet, and 10,612 feet.

After the climb, the trail descends moderately and southwest to Island Lake (9815´; 11S 323436 4108468), the crown jewel of Dinkey Lakes Wilderness. As a result, several campsites rim its shores. True to the lake’s name, there are several rocky, sun-drenched islands; they support mature lodgepole and are a popular destination for swimmers braving the frigid water. Fishing is fair for rainbow and brook trout.

BEYOND ISLAND LAKE

The terrain surrounding Island Lake, bare granite slabs and broad open forests, is excellent for cross-country exploring. Fingerbowl Lake (9680´), nestled west of Island Lake, can be reached easily by following the granite wall northwest to a south-trending ridge. From the ridge, westward views reveal a half-dozen lakes within a relatively small area. Fingerbowl Lake (less than a quarter mile away) is a small, deep, round lake fringed on one side by a marshy outlet and on the other by snow-covered scree. The Three Sisters are visible beyond the lake’s eastern shore.

DAY 2 (Island Lake to South Lake, 5 miles): From Island Lake, return to the Y-junction at Second Dinkey Lake (9580´). Turn left and head north, closely following the western banks of Dinkey Creek as it quietly cascades from Second Dinkey Lake to First Dinkey Lake. After a moderate, 0.6-mile descent, the track reaches a junction (9280´), at which this trip’s loop section begins.

While the loop can be taken in either direction, this trip takes hikers to the lakes in order of the lakes’ increasing scenic beauty. So continue straight ahead (west-northwest) to the broad, marshy, east end of First Dinkey Lake (9239´), bound by bogs and meadows that host a vigorous population of mosquitoes well into summer. The barren ridge of the Three Sisters is visible beyond its southern shore.

The trail arcs around the lake’s north shore, meeting a junction just past the large boulders by the lake’s outlet (9270´). Turn left (generally west) and begin a gradual descent, once again following Dinkey Creek (brook trout) as it gains in volume and velocity the farther it flows from its headwaters.

After 1.6 miles, bear left (south) across Dinkey Creek and climb gradually to Mystery Lake (8963´). Near the lake’s outlet, the trail becomes difficult to spot, as use paths diverge in all directions around this heavily used lake. Your main path skirts the lake’s north side and the boggy area east of it before crossing Swede Lake’s outlet. Now the route climbs about a dozen switchbacks and refords the outlet just prior to reaching Swede Lake’s north shore. Swede Lake (9224´), bordered by smooth granite slabs on its southeast shore, presents fine swimming and angling opportunities.

Past Swede Lake’s north end, the trail immediately climbs 150 feet, ending in a mellow traverse and slight descent to South Lake in 0.7 mile. South Lake (9294´; 11S 316454 4114249), with its deep, alluring, emerald waters, is fed by a waterfall rushing over an exposed granite ledge on its south side.

DAY 3 (South Lake to Cliff Lake Trailhead, 8 miles): Beyond South Lake, the main trail crosses the lake’s outlet and traverses gradually above bogs to ford Dinkey Creek and reach the junction where you began the loop on Day 2. At this junction, close the loop and turn right (east). Retrace your steps to the next junction, and instead of going back to Island Lake, head left (east and then south) along Second Dinkey Lake’s east shore to Rock Lake. From there, retrace this trip’s route to the trailhead.