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This compact cabinet of modern design holds shells and many small accessories in one side and fishing rods in the other while guns are proudly displayed behind glass in the center

SPORTING equipment deserves a place where it can be kept intact when it is not in use, and more than that, it should be well displayed. Construction of this modern cabinet accomplished both objectives.

Work on the cabinet starts with the floor. This piece is made of 3/4″ stock, the size of which is listed in the bill of materials. The shape of this piece is shown in one of the detail drawings, but before it is cut as shown, the two dado grooves that are to take the sides should be laid out and cut. These dadoes are located 5 3/8″ in from each end and are 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep. This leaves a space between them of 11 1/2″. A dado head set up in the saw table should be used to make these cuts, or they may be made by hand with a back saw and a chisel or a hand router. When this has been done, the piece should be laid out to the correct shape. The width of each section that forms the floor of the side compartments measures 7 3/4″. After the lines have been drawn, the stock may be cut on a band saw or jig saw and then finished smooth with a wood file and sandpaper.

The tops of the center and side cabinets are cut to the sizes given in the bill of materials. On the back edge a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut to take the plywood back. The sides of the small compartments are made of 3/4″ stock. These pieces are rabbeted on the back edge, 3/4″ × 3/8″, the same as the top members, to take the back. The upper and lower ends of the side pieces are rabbeted to take the top and bottom. These rabbets are 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep and should be cut so that the top and bottom members will fit flush with the ends. The sides of the center compartments are cut to size and the upper ends are rabbeted in the same manner as the sides of the small compartments.

The next thing that must be done is to establish the point, 4″ from the top of the center section, where the side compartments are to be joined to the center section. Locate and bore the holes for the 1 1/4″ No. 7 screws that are used to fasten these members together. The holes should be counterbored to a depth of 3/8″ to take wood plugs. These plugs should be cut and applied after the units have been assembled. The back edge of the center compartment sides should be rabbeted to take the back. One of the photographs shows how a continuous rabbet is formed. The rabbet that extends the full length of the side can be cut on the circular saw without any difficulty. Downward from a point 4 3/8″ from the top, the back of this piece is finished free from any projecting wood. Most of this cutting can be done on the circular saw but the corner is finished with hand tools.

One of the compartments should be provided with shelves. These shelves should be movable in order to obtain as much room as possible for storage. The shelf support brackets as shown in the detail drawing may be obtained in any hardware store It is advisable to obtain these before attempting to bore the holes in the sides of the cabinet. While the support shown in the detail calls for a pin of 5/16″ diameter, a 1/4″ pin will be just as satisfactory, provided holes of the corresponding size are bored to take it. The holes to take the rear set of supports are located 1 1/2″ in from the back and 6 1/2″ from the back for the forward set. The holes are started 6″ from the top and then every 2″ thereafter. The last set of holes may be from 4″ to 6″ from the bottom. When boring the holes, it is not necessary to go beyond 3/8″ as this is all that is required to take the pin.

Here, sketch and photo show the cabinet floor dadoed for sides of center section.

The other compartment is designed to hold fishing rods; therefore it will not be necessary to supply shelves for it but if the builder so desires, he may lay out and bore holes for shelf supports if he has no intention of keeping rods in the case.

The various members that are now completed should be sandpapered thoroughly in order to prepare the work for assembling. The center section is assembled first. This is done by gluing and fastening the sides to the bottom with 1 1/2″ brads. The top is then glued in place between the sides and held temporarily with clamps. The side compartments may now be assembled to the center section. The side pieces are fastened to the bottom with glue and brads. Use a nail net on all brads. The tops of the compartments are attached to the center compartment with 1 1/4″ No. 7 screws. The wooden plugs are cut and glued in the counterbored holes to cover the heads of the screws. After the glue that was used to fasten the plugs in place has set, the plugs should be trimmed off flush with the side by means of a sharp chisel and smoothed with sandpaper.

The sides at the top of the center section and the side compartments should be rounded off at a radius of 3/8″. The back is made of 1/4″ plywood and should be cut to the shape of the cabinet. When laying out this panel, it is most important that the corners be kept square as this is the part of the work that will keep the cabinet square. After the panel has been cut and fitted in the rabbets, it should be glued and fastened in place with 1″ brads.

The doors of the side compartments are made of 3/4″ stock and should be fitted to the openings. These doors should have splines inserted in the ends to help prevent them from warping. This is done by cutting a groove 1/4″ wide and 2″ deep in each end, then gluing a hardwood spline, 1/4″ × 2″ × 5″, in the groove.

The door of the main section is made of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock, cut to the lengths given in the bill of materials. The rails are joined to the stiles with mortise and tenon joints. The mortises in the stiles are 1/4″ wide, 7/8″ long and 1″ deep. They are placed in the center of the stile, with the end of the mortise 1/4″ from end of the stock. These mortises may be cut on the drill press, set up as a hollow mortiser, or they may be cut by hand, using a 1/4″ auger bit and a chisel. The rails and stiles are rabbeted to take a glass. These rabbets are wide and 1/4″ deep. After the rails have been rabbeted, tenons should be laid out on the ends. The outside face of the rail has a shoulder that is 1″ from the end, while the inside face has a shoulder 5/8″ from the end. The outside edge has a shoulder 5/8″ from the end, while the inside edge has a shoulder 1″ from the edge. The tenon itself measures 1/4″ thick and 7/8″ wide and is located 1/4″ from each face.

Bill of Materials

Spraying the cabinet in two colors—the inside of the center section in a lighter color than the rest of the cabinet—called for masking with paper and Scotch tape where the two colors met in a sharp line

The base viewed from above shows a filler block inside the front, and cleats added with screw holes for attaching to the floor

When the joints have been cut and the members fitted together, the pieces may be sandpapered and prepared for gluing. When applying the clamps, make certain that the frame is not forced out of square. Check the corners with a try-square and as an additional pre-caution measure the diagonal distance from corner to corner.

The base is made of 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock, cut to the sizes given in the bill of materials. The base under the main section should be assembled first. The forward corners should be mitered, glued, and fastened together with 1 1/4″ brads. This unit is then fastened to the back member with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head wood screws. The pieces that form the base under the side compartments are mitered, glued and fastened together at the outer corner with 1 1/4″ brads. These are then attached to the main section of the base with 1 1/2″ brads. A filler piece must be added inside the main section of the base at the front, to allow for the space taken up by the door. Cleats of 3/4″ × 3/4″ stock are cut and fitted inside each of the boxes formed by the base members. These strips are used to take the screws which fasten the base to the cabinet.

The gun rack is made of a piece of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock, shaped as shown in the detail or altered to fit special requirements. This piece is mounted to the back, 36″ above the bottom with three 1″ screws driven through the back panel and into the rack. Each stock rest is made of three members. The main block is made of 1 1/2″ × 2″ × 4″ stock, cut to the shape of the end of the gun stock. The 1/4″ pieces that are fastened to each side of the main block have the same contour of the block but project 1/4″ beyond the top. These three pieces are glued together. They are fastened to the base with 1 1/2″ wood screws, driven through the bottom and into the block.

The shelves are cut to size and fitted in place. The number of these will depend on the individual’s requirements. The side compartment doors are hung with 2″ brass butts mortised into the side and edge of the door. The center door is hung with the same size butts, mortised into the inside face of the door frame and the edge of the side piece. Locks are advisable on all doors.

The glass for the center door measures 10 3/4″ × 54 1/4″ and is held in the rabbet with a small quarter-round molding. Door stops, 1/4″ square and 5″ long, are fastened inside the small compartments at the top and bottom.

The finish of the cabinet will depend on the place where it is to be kept. It may be stained and varnished or it may be enameled or lacquered. In any location the guns will be displayed more advantageously if the center cabinet interior is finished with a light colored lacquer.