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ОглавлениеWARDROBE Chests BUILT FOR MODERN NEEDS
CONVENTIONAL chests of drawers for the bedroom do not always fulfill modern needs. Chest drawers, for instance, do not accommodate laundered shirts efficiently for the obvious reason that the style of such chests has changed little down through the years. This and other minor annoyances have been considered in the design of this group of up-to-date chests. Three units compose the entire ensemble shown here. Two of them are identical with drawers; the other has a series of shelves.
Aside from the unique advantage of varied arrangement afforded by the group—they may be placed in several different positions along the wall—the group meets the requirements of the amateur craftsman inasmuch as all panels are cut from large sheets of plywood, and joints have been simplified to come within the means of the small workshop.
The construction of this chest may be handled as two separate units. Unit (B) is the center section of which only one is required, while two units of (A) will be needed for the side sections. Since the (A) units require more work, these should be started first. Four pieces of stock the sizes of which are given in the bill of materials will be required for the sides. These members, after being cut to the proper size, have a 9/16″ × 9/16″ rabbet cut on the inside face at the top. The back edge and lower end have rabbets cut on the same face but in this case the rabbets are 9/16″ deep and 3/4″ wide.
Two chests with drawers of just the right size for shirts and similar items of apparel are made to flank a taller chest that has shelves which can be adjusted for hats and shoes
SIMPLE DRAWER RUNNERS
The two outside units are to be equipped with drawers to hold such wearing apparel as would be kept in any chest of drawers. It will be necessary to install drawer runners for this purpose. The stock for the drawer runners is cut to the size given in the bill of materials. The 3/4″ × 1 3/4″ runners must be rabbeted as shown in the drawing. This rabbet is 1/8″ deep and 3/4″ wide. The location of the runners must be established on each side piece. The strips have three holes bored in each one to take flat head wood screws. The holes must be then countersunk. Screws 2″ long are needed for the wide runners while 1 1/4″ screws will be long enough for the 3/4″ ones. When these runners are being fastened in place, there are two things that must be kept in mind. First, be sure to place the wide runners against the side to which the door of the unit is to be hinged. Secondly, be certain that they are parallel so that the trays can slide freely.
Photos at left show how the sides are rabbeted for back and top. Below, bottom screws to base
The back is made of a piece of stock cut to the dimensions given in the bill of materials. The lower inside end of this member has a 9/16″ × 3/4″ rabbet cut on it as shown in the sketch. The top is cut to the proper size and the inside back end has a rabbet 9/16″ deep and 3/4″ wide cut on it. The front is rabbeted on the upper face 3/16″ × 3/16″. The bottom is cut to the size given in the bill of materials and the holes located through which pass the screws that fasten the base to the bottom. These are placed 7/8″ from the front end and 11/16″ from the side edges and back end. Each base is made of four pieces of 3/4″ × 2 3/4″ stock. Two of these members have 9/16″ × 3/4″ rabbets cut at each end as shown in the sketch.
The (A) unit chest shown at left, above, has wide drawer runners on one side to allow for the door. The (B) unit at right shows sides and back
The various members which go to make up these outer units should now be sandpapered thoroughly to prepare the work for assembling. Glue and 1 1/2″ brads are used to put the work together. The sides are attached to the back piece first; this is followed by fastening the top in place. The base members should be assembled, then fastened to the bottom with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flat head wood screws. The bottom is now ready to be fastened to the sides and back. All brads should be set and the excess glue wiped off with a damp cloth. Clamps should be applied to hold the cabinet together while the glue is given time to set. After the clamps have been tightened on the work, check the corners with a try-square to make certain they are true.
MAKING THE CENTER CHEST
While these cabinets are in the clamps, the work of constructing the center, or (B) unit, may be undertaken. The procedure as outlined above for making the side, or (A) units, should be followed when building this section. The only point at which a change will have to be made is when the sides have been cut and rabbeted. As shown in the sketch this unit is to have movable shelves. Provisions will have to be made for them as shown in the sketch. This consists of two series of holes bored in the inside face. One row of holes is located 2″ from the front while the other row of holes is located 4″ in from the rabbet on the back. The holes are placed 2″ apart in each row. They are 1/4″ in diameter and bored to a depth of 3/8″. Dowels 1/4″ in diameter or regular metal shelf supports may be used to hold the shelves in place. This unit is assembled in the same manner as the other.
The shelves for the center unit are now cut to the proper size and fitted in place. If dowels are used to support the shelves, the size as given in the bill of materials is correct; but if the metal shelf supports are used, they will have to be cut about 3/16″ shorter.
While the ensemble is composed of three units, one may be omitted if not needed
Photos and sketch above show the simple box-like construction of drawers for one unit. At left the other unit is shown with a series of adjustable shelves
The doors are cut to size and fitted to their respective cabinets. After they have been fitted properly they are hung with 2″ brass butts. The hinges should be mortised into the side as well as the edge of the door. The center unit will require a door stop. This is made of a piece of 1/4″ × 1/4″ stock 33 3/4″ long. It is fastened against the side, 3/4″ in from the edge, with glue and 3/4″ brads. The door pulls are cut to the proper size then shaped as shown in the cross section. The ends are rounded off at a radios of 1″. The door pulls are placed as shown in the drawing. They are fastened to the doors with glue and 1 1/2″ flat head screws. Holes will have to be bored and countersunk in the door to take the screws.
The drawers or trays are made of plywood stock, cut to the dimensions given in the bill of materials. The drawer fronts are to be shaped as shown in the drawing. In order to do this, a pattern will have to be made, then the outline is traced on each of the members. They are cut on the jig saw or band saw and finished on the drum sander or by hand with a file. The sides are glued and fastened to the front and back members with 1″ No. 17 brads. The bottom is glued and fastened to the side members with 3/4″ No. 18 brads. The trays should be sanded thoroughly and fitted in place. If any trimming of the drawers is necessary to make them slide easily, it should be done at this time.
The cabinet drawers and shelves are given a coat of shellac and sanded down with No. 00 sandpaper. All open grain such as the ends of the plywood panels, cracks and nail holes should be filled and rubbed down. This is followed with another coat of shellac and is sandpapered a second time. A coat of enamel or lacquer in whatever shade is desired is applied after the sanding of the second coat of shellac. A second and third coat will complete the work.
Bill of Materials
